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FRUITS AND VEGETABLES 
UNDER GLASS 




WILLIAM TURNER 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES 
UNDER GLASS 



APPLES, APRICOTS, CHERRIES, FIGS, GRAPES, 

MELONS, PEACHES AND NECTARINES, 

PEARS, PINEAPPLES, PLUMS, 

STRAWBERRIES 



ASPARAGUS, BEANS, BEETS, CARROTS, CHICORY, 

CAULIFLOWERS, CUCUMBERS, LETTUCE, 

MUSHROOMS, RADISHES, RHUBARB, 

SEA KALE, TOMATOES 



By 
WILLIAM TURNER 



1912 
A. T. DE LA MARE PRINTING AND PUBLISHING COMPANY 

LIMITED 

NEW YORK 



Copyright, 1912, by 

A. T. De La Mare Ptg. & Pub. Co., Ltd. 

New York 

All rights reserved 






FOREWORD 



FOREWORD 



A FEW years ago I contributed some articles on iruit culture under glass 
to The Florists' Exchange. These were very favorably received, and 
it was even suggested to me that I should collect all my material on 
this subject and put it into book form. But at that time I realized that I still 
lacked experience in many of the details of that pursuit which were absolutely 
necessary to the successful culture of the several fruits it is possible and profitable 
to raise under glass. 

The encouragement I then received has, however, induced me at this later 
time, and after more extended experience, to now attempt to carry out an under- 
taking which, even well into its beginning, seemed a Herculean task. But, strange 
to say, as I began to make progress the more deeply I became interested. It 
was to me a relaxation from other duties, and I have found the preparation of 
the subject matter very companionable. Progress has been slow, as the writing 
could be done at night only, after the more pressing duties of the day had received 

attention. 

There are many well-known fruit growers throughout this country who 
raise excellent crops and who are thoroughly familiar with the art of bringing 
fruit under glass to the highest state of perfection; such men need no instruc- 
tion from me. My sole motive in publishing this work is to give information 
to the less fortunate of my brethren, those who have not had the opportunity 
to learn all the details necessary to the successful cultivation of all kinds ot 
indoor fruit. 

If this book will prove of assistance to the inexperienced and to the be- 
ginner to the extent of imparting new life and energy to this important branch 
of our profession, I shall feel repaid a hundredfold for the time and labor it has 
cost me. I know there is a great and growing field for this work, and I would 
say to all gardeners (young and old), located in establishments where there is 
glass to any extent but no fruit: Introduce some pot fruit, but grow it well; it 
may be the means of adding a fruit range to the establishment. There is no 
better spender in the world than the American employer, provided that returns 
are in sight, namely, fruit of a higher grade than can be produced or obtained 
in the open market. 

I have endeavored to discard theory and to give nothing but solid facts 
and information which, I may say, it has taken me many years of close experi- 
ence to collect and apply. But I now feel sure of my ground— for the greater 
part of my life has been spent among hothouse fruit. I do not take any credit to 



12 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

myself for \\ hatcver knowledge 1 nia\ liavc gained in liic course ol tiiis inirsuit; 
rather would 1 call it my good fortune to have been kept in einsc toucii with 
fruit forcing for so many years. 

It has also been my privilege to work under liberal employers. This has 
been of great advantage in enabling me to gain valuable information in the 
way of testing many new fruits w hich have been brought to my notice. 

I have tried to present all my facts in such a way that those who follow 
closely the methods here detailed, and which 1 ha\c found successful, can achieve 
similar results. 

Do not hesitate on the plea of inexperience. Plunge fearlessly (using your 
good common sense, be it understood) into this new line of work and success 
will lollow. Growing fruits and \egetablcs out of season is a fascinating occupa- 
tion, and time flies all too fast when we become interested in that pursuit. 

I ha\e been waiting for several years in the hope that some man better 
qualified than I am would come forward to discuss this important subject with 
a more fluent pen. It will be noticed that my method of culture \aries slightly 
from that recommencled by European writers on the subiect, particularly during 
the Summer, w hen it is advisable to give more air to the plants, especiall\' when 
dispensing with artificial heat, for at this season too close an atmosphere en- 
courages mildew and kindred diseases. I ha\e endea\ored to explain all details 
so far as my knowledge and experience enabled me to do so. 

My aim from beginning to end has been to present cultural inlormation 
so plainly that any grower may, w-ithout previous experience, follow my in- 
structions with an assurance of reasonable success. I also extend my sincere 
thanks to the Lord & Burnham Company lor courtesies shown in furnishing 
me with diagrams for fruithouse construction, 'etc., also for tlie photograph of 
pot Grape vine in fruit, which I appreciate highly. The other photographs 
1 myself ha\e taken. And last, but not least, my thanks and sincere appre- 
ciation are due to A. T. De La Mare, president of the A. T. De La Mare Printing 
and Publishing Company, Ltd., for his kindly assistance in bringing my manu- 
script into presentable form. 

\\\L TURNER. 
Oceanic, N. J., 1912. 



[Situated similarly to Mr. 1 uriier, and in the midst of more than ordinarily 
pressing duties, some delay since the receipt of Mr. Turner's manuscript has 
been occasioned in the presentation of this book, for which I hereby offer my 
apologies. Advantage was taken of a recent vacation, made necessary as a 
respite from overwork, to take up the preparation of Mr. Turner's manuscript. 
It has been a pleasant and a fascinating task, with my thoughts constantly 
dwelling on the author's juicy, luscious fruits. — A. T. D.] 



CONTENTS 



13 



CONTENTS 



FRUITS UNDER GLASS 

Chapter Page 

I History of the Grape Vine 17 

II Houses Best Adapted for Growing Grapes 20 

III The Various Systems of Propagation 22 

IV Vine Borders 29 

V Cultural Directions 37 

VI Planting Young Vines 43 

VII Methods of Pruning the Vine 47 

VIII Disbudding, Pinching or Stopping the Shoots, Setting the Fruit 53 

IX Grape Thinning 59 

X Commercial Grape Culture 65 

XI Varieties of Grapes Best Adapted for Early and Late Use 67 

XII Insects and Diseases 74 

XIII Keeping Qualities of Grapes — Storing, Packing, Exhibition 80 

XIV Grape Vines Cultivated in Pots 85 

XV Peaches and Nectarines 91 

XVI Thinning the Fruit, Gathering the Peaches and Nectarines When Ripe 107 

XVII Diseases and Insect Pests That Affect Peaches and Nectarines 116 

XVIII Selection of Varieties for Forcing Purposes 121 

XIX Pot Fruit Culture and Its Advantages 127 

XX Pot Fruit — Cultural Directions and Feeding 132 

XXI Pot Fruit — Pinching the Shoot, Thinning the Fruit 138 

XXII Pot Fruit — Troublesome Diseases and Insect Pests 142 

XXIII Pot Fruit — Treatment of Trees After the Fruit is Gathered 146 

XXIV Varieties of Fruit Adapted for Orchardhouse Work 151 

XXV Fig Culture in a Separate House i 58 

XXVI Melon-Growing in the House 166 

XXVII Melons— General Culture 172 

XXVIII Strawberries as Pot Fruit 179 

XXIX Secrets of Success in Strawberry Culture , 185 

XXX The Hothouse Pineapple 191 



VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

XXXI Forcing of Lettuce 203 

XXXII Cauliflower 213 

XXXIII Radishes 217 

XXXIV Tomatoes 219 

XXXV Cucumbers 226 

XXXVI Mushrooms 233 

XXXVII Rhubarb 237 

XXXVIII Asparagus 240 

XXXIX Carrots, Beets, String Beans 243 

XL Sea Kale and Chicory 248 



14 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

ILLUSTRATIONS p^^. 

Grape Muscat of Alexandria i8 

Ground Plan for Early, Medium and Late Grapery 21 

Grape Gros Colnian 23 

Grape Gros Maroc 25 

Grape Black Hamburg 28 

Section of Grapery 31 

Grape Lady Hutt 36 

Grape Barbarossa 39 

Grape Vines Just CominK into Leaf 42 

A Grape Vine Three Months Old 44 

A Grape Vine Eye Just Rooted 46 

A Grape Vine Showing Method of Pruning 40 

Grape Alicante 55 

Grape No. i — Before Thinning ; 58 

Grape No. 2 — After Thinning 60 

Grape No. 3 — Same as Nos. i and 2 Taken Nine or Ten Weeks Later 62 

Grape .\Ladresfield Court 64 

Grape Black Hamburg. . 71 

Grape Nine, 30-40 \'ears Old, of the Variety Gros Guillaume 73 

Grape .Muscat of Alexandria 77 

Grape Representing Method of Pot Culture 87 

Peach Trees in Blossom 93 

Section of Peach-house 95 

Peach Peregrine 98 

Peach Bellegarde 100 

Nectarine Spencer 102 

Nectarine Advance 103 

Peach Bellegarde 108 

Nectarine Early Rivers 1 1 1 

Nectarine Newton 115 

Peach Thomas Rivers 117 

Peach Noblesse 1 20 

Peach Goshawk 123 

Peach Peregrine 125 

Peach Thomas Rivers 125 

Section of House for Pot Fruit 130 

Pear Princess 135 

Plum Denniston Superb 140 

Pear Mme. Treyve 143 

Plum Denniston Superb 147 

Pear Beurre Hardy i 50 

Plum Oullin's Golden i 52 

Plum Mallard 153 

Plum Czar i 54 

Pear Pitmaston Duchess 155 

Pear Conference 1 56 

Fig Bourjassotte Grise 161 

Fig Negro Largo 16; 

Muskmelon, Sutton's Emerald Gem 168 

Muskmelon, Turner's Seedling 171 

Muskmelon Superb 176 

Strawberry Sharpless 181 

Strawberry Pride of Red Bank 186 

Pineapple Queen . 193 

Pineapple, Smooth-Leaf Cayenne 197 



Lettuce May King 206 

Lettuce Ideal 211 

Cauliflower Snowball 214 

Tomato The Rochford 223 

Cucumber Improved Telegraph 229 

Crop of Mushrooms One Month After Bed Was Spawned with Pure Culture Spawn 232 

Asparagus 241 

Carrots 244 

Beets 245 

Bean Black Valentine 246 



FRUITS UNDER GLASS 



HISTORY OF THE GRAPE VINE 



CHAPTER I 



HISTORY OF THE GRAPE VINE 

IN telling the story of the Grape vine there is nothing new to recount; it 
belongs to ancient history. The Grape is mentioned in the early chap- 
ters of the Bible, from which we learn that it was held in high esteem 
by the peoples of antiquity as well as of later times, who prized not only the 
fruit itself but as well the wine extracted from it. According to the early writers, 
the vine, Vitis vinifera. was cultivated in Asia and Egypt, in Greece, Italy, and 
other parts of southern Europe, and later in France. It is even said that the 
Romans attempted its cultivation in Britain during their occupancy of that 
land, though with poor success. This shows that the warm air of Italy is better 
adapted to its successful cultivation than is the damp and moist climate of 
England. 

Vineyards are mentioned by Bede (before 731 A. D.) as existing in several 
parts of Britain. Even the monasteries were not complete without their vine- 
yards. More has probably been written concerning the Grape vine than of 
any other fruit. It is disappointing, however, in looking over the references 
to it, to find so few records of value as to its actual history. Take, for instance, 
the Muscat of Alexandria, one of the oldest known Grapes, and still without 
a peer when properly handled; how interesting it would be to know the true 
early history of such a magnificent fruit! Many varieties have been disseminated 
during the past three score years, yet, if I were asked to name the two best 
varieties of Grapes, I should unhesitatingly say Black Hamburg and Muscat 
of Alexandria. The latter variety has gone under many differing names, and 
so-called improved varieties have been tried in years gone by. Even the much 
discussed Canon Hall Muscat was thought, and not so long ago, to be an Im- 
provement, and such it would undoubtedly have been but for the fact that it 
was almost impossible to secure from it a good set. Thus, this variety was 
weighed In the balance and found wanting. Strange to say, several of the leading 
varieties of cur Grapes of today were not recognized at their true value until 
some years after they were first tested or raised from seed. Foster's Seedling was 
originated about 1835, t)ut it was not grown to any extent until twenty-five 
years later; then, however, it became popular so quickly that it was found in nearly 
every establishment growing Grapes on any scale. Gros Maroc was introduced 
about 1855, from the vineyards of M. Vibert of Angers, but it remained com- 
paratively unknown for a number of years and until T. F. Rivers received a 



FRUITS AND XEGIITABLES UNDER GLASS 




Grape Muscat of Amlxandkia 

The finest ul :ill hothouse Grapes. Wherever :i white Grape is in demand, this noble variety 
should have prelerence over all others. Berries and bunches are large, with a rich Muscat flavor, 
bunches hanging on the vines a considerable time alter being ripe. 



HISTORY OF THE GRAPE VINE 19 

first-class certificate for an exhibit thereof from the Royal Horticultural Society 
of Great Britain; then its popularity became established; from that time on 
it has graced many an exhibition and often carried off the highest honors I'or 
black Grapes. While it has not an extra rich flavor, it is popular on account 
of its appearance, the size of the berry, its finish, and it is also an easy doer. 

The same may be said of Gros Colman. The early history of this Grape 
is not very clear. Mr. Thomson of Scotland was the first to recognize the possi- 
bilities of this variety for growing on a large scale for the market. Thomson 
& Sons, Clovenfords, Scotland, have made their name known far and wide 
through their success with Gros Colman as a late-keeping Grape, and today 
more Grapes of this variety, for a late fruit, are probably grown than of any 
other. 

Under favorable circumstances the vine will live to a great age. There 
are records of vines five hundred years old. The celebrated vine at Hampton 
Court, England, was planted in 1769 and is still bearing annually a large number 
of medium-sized bunches. This is proof sufficient that the Grape vine will reach 
a good old age provided it is well cared for. 

It is only during the past fifty years or so that the Grape vine has occupied 
so much space under glass, and its cultivation today does not vary to any great 
extent from that practiced years ago. In my younger days I have seen some 
very old-fashioned graperies, where the vines were planted outside and brought 
in through crevices in the wall, there being no inside border at all. Good Grapes 
may be grown in this way for Midseason, but for early forcing or for late growth 
It is very unsatisfactory. However, going back twenty-five to thirty years, we 
find some magnificent specimens of Grapes, and we have records of bunches 
of great weight, such as Trebbiano, weighing 26 pounds; White Nice, 25 pounds; 
Gros Guillaume, commonly known as Barbarossa, 23 pounds; Black Ham- 
burg, 21 pounds. Such record weights are surely of interest to look back upon, 
and we can truly say that the men who grew those bunches have left these 
records as a monument to their skill in the cultivation of Grapes under glass. 
Records equal to these will not easily be eclipsed. 




n<l'lTS AND VEGETABLES UND1:K GLASS 



CHAPTER II 

HOUSES BEST ADAPTED FOR GROWING GRAPES 

THE advances iikicIl in recent years in greenhouse construction is simply 
marvelous. A few years ago we thcught they had reached perfection 
and that it would be almost impossible to better them. But improve- 
ments ha\e continued since then, so that it now seems to me that the profes- 
sional builder will have to exercise considerable ingenuity before he can im- 
prove upon existing types. We, as growers of forced fruits, appreciate the 
good work which has been done along these lines, and the growers throughout 
the country are fully aware of the benefits they have derived from this source. 
I may safely say that greenhouses, such as are now erected in America, have 
not their equal anywhere in the world for strength, durability, and light. The 
greenhouse constructor is surely the grower's best friend. 

Fruit has been grown in different kinds of structures, ^'ears ago the leanto 
house was much in favor, and it is still very satisfactory for climates not sub- 
ject to extremes of temperature, especially for early forcing, when facing south. 
In such a house the desired temperature is easily maintained. But when ex- 
tremes of temperature have to be reckoned with the even span is the ideal house 
for fruit culture. Either a curvilinear or a straight roof may be adopted. One 
point in favor of the curvilinear root for private establishments is that it gives 
the range a neater appearance, in agreeable contrast to that of the commercial 
greenhouse. As to the width, a house 25 feet wide is just right, and it should 
certainly net exceed 30 feet. Let your fruithouses run, if possible, north and 
south. Complete ventilation must be provided, both for top and bottom, as 
free circulation of air is necessary both when ripening up the fruit and the wood. 
Admitting that the greenhouse constructor has reduced the building of 
these houses to a science, with a thorough understanding of all the requirements 
of an ideal fruithousc, I do not need to go into any details along these lines. 
Still, a word in regard to location will be permissible. Greater success is to be 
looked for b>' selecting an elevation rather than low ground. Where fruithouses 
are on low ground they need close attention, as the fruit in them ii" more subject 
to mildew and kindred diseases. The ideal range will be set on an elevation 
and protected Irom the north winds or, if there exists no natural protection, a 
planting can be made lor the purpiisc of furnishing a windbreak that will assume 
an adequate size in a few years. 

As to heating, either steam or hot water may be used, but fruithouses are 
generally ec|uipped with a hut water s\stem; I, ni\self, decidedly prefer the 



HOUSES BEST ADAPTED FOR GROWING GRAPES 21 

latter. There is an attribute in connection with a hot water system which gives 
off a mild heat, whereas the steam seems harsh and fiery. 

In installing the piping to give the desired temperature it is much I^etter 
to overpipe a house than to underpipe it, but this need not overheat the house, 
for, under most conditions, the desired temperature can be easily maintained. 



EARLY GRAPERY 
2 -5X3 3- 4" 



MEDIUM GRAPERY 
25X33-4" 



LATE GRAPERY 
25x33-4" 



This represents the ground plan for three compartments, e/en span house, with slat walk 
in the center, for Grape forcing — rcarly, midseason and late — which, for ordinary private use, 
should be sufficient. Still, if desired, these compartments may be extended to any length according 
to demands, although I would not advocate having the grapery more than 25 feet in width. 
Then, by having the vines planted each side of the house, it will allow space, for training up the 
permanent rods on each side, of 24 or 25 feet, which is a sufficient length. Three compartments 
are absolutely necessary where a continuous supply is desired — say, from May 1st to January 
1st. Neither would there be anything gained by having more, as this would be found to cover 
the season thoroughly. The same plan would be ideal for a Peach house, only have the walk 
around the sides instead of in the center, and plant the trees crossw ise of the house, using trellises 
for that purpose, about 6 feet apart. 




FRUITS AND VEGILTABLES UNDER GLASS 



CHAPTER III 



THE VARIOUS SYSTEMS OF PROPAGATION 

Propagation by Layering — Propagation by Seed — Cross Fertilization — 
Propagation by Inarching — Propagation by Grafting 

THE Grape vine may be easily propagated and, with tiie proper radii- 
ties at command, tliere will be very little trouble, as a rule, in raising 
young plants. There are different methods in vogue, such as by cut- 
tings, layering and eyes. 

Fruit experts have held for many years that the plants propagated from 
the eyes are the most satisfactory in every respect. It should be borne in mind, 
however, that in order to get the best results, it is absolutely necessary that the 
stock selected for this purpose be thoroughly ripened wood. Although the efl'ect 
of using unripe wood may not be evident when the young plants are first rooted, 
yet it will appear later. If two batches were put in at the same time, one with 
the wood thoroughly ripened and the other with unripened wood, both batches 
would probably root equallj' well, but the ripened wood, doubtless, would grow 
away from the other, and make much better plants before the end of the season. 
To the unobser\'ant the vines, when dormant, may all look ripe. Yet there is 
a wide difference. Some wood will cut pithy and soft, and this is very undesir- 
able, while the wood that cuts hard, or almost like dried wood, is ideal stock for 
raising \igorous plants. This may seem a point of small importance; never- 
theless, the very best is none too good for future purposes, and the end in \-iew 
should not be lost sight of. 

The question has often been asked: When is the best time to propagate 
young vines? I should say from the middle to the end of January, and this 
for two reasons: in the first place, it gives one a good season in which to grow 
the canes; in the second place, by the time they are rooted, the days are some- 
what longer, a circumstance which promotes the growth. Whereas, if the 
plants are started earlier, they run the lisk of having their growth checked during 
the dark days of Winter. The result would be a stunted cane onl\- lit for the 
rubbish pile. 

As stated, select tlic most perfect, plump eyes, lea\lng about half an inch 
of wood on each side of the eye. A slight incision may be made on the side opposite 
the ej'e, a little below the bark; this, ho\ve\-er, is not necessary, for the wood will 
callus below the eye as the bud progresses, and the roots will follow. Where 



THE VARIOUS SYSTEMS OF PROPAGATION 



23 




Grape Gros Colman 
This picture represents the Grapes growing naturally on the vine. 



24 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

a large quantity of vines is to be raised From eyes, these niav Ix- laid in Hats, 
a couple of inches apart, iirst half filling the Hat with soil; then a coat of sharp 
sand is spread on top and the eyes are pressed down until the bud is level with 
the sand. This method economizes space, but it has one serious drawback 
in that the vines are disturbed after they have started to root; as well, 
the first roots made by the vines are not fibrous, but straight and smooth 
and very easily broken. 

The most successful \\a>-, and the one to be recommended, is the following: 
Take 3-inch pots, (ill them partly with broken sod and spread about one inch of 
sand on top. Insert one eye in each pot, pressing the eve down into the sand 
until the bud is lc\el with the sand. These pots may be put into the propagating 
house where there is bottom heat of about 75°, with about -o'' top. 
setting tliem in some material that will prevent their drying out too often. 
They must Ix- kept moist all the time, but do not saturate them. The most 
critical time, or the danger point, is just as the bud is beginning to leaf out. 
Too much water lodging around at this period is apt to cause decay. But, 
after the root action becomes good, there is less danger. As the pots get 
fairly well filled with roots, a shift is in order into 5-inch pots, still using 
bottom heat for a time. 

When the weather gets warmer the plants may be removed from the bottom 
heat and grown through the Summer months in a moist, even temperature; 
about 80° by day and 70° by night is the ideal temperature for them. 
If e\'erything has gone well they should be good, strong canes in g-inch pots 
by the Fall, making good material for planting into the borders for fruiting, 
either in the Fall or in the following Spring, as will be explained later. 

PROPAGATION BY LAYERING 

I have seen excellent results obtained by merely rooting young vines and 
planting them at once in the Grape border at the proper distance for fruiting 
canes. Through this method, very strong, vigorous canes were grown the 
same season. I think, however, that better success is likely to be obtained by 
growing the canes in pots for one season, for in selecting one-year canes, one would 
naturally desire to have them of uniform size, whereas, if the newly rooted green 
vines are planted, some may grow away more vigorously than others, thus giving 
the canes a somewhat uneven appearance. 

PROPAGATION BY INARCHING 

Inarching is worthy of mention. In a grapery containing vines which 
are strong and healthy although of an undesirable variety, it is an easy operation 
to inarch other varieties thereon. The most feasible way in which to carr\- 
out this work is to raise the varieties desired in pots and to inarch them on the 
varieties to be discarded when large enough. Well grown one-year canes will 
answer the purpose. When starting up a grapery with the view to inarching, 
the stock destined for this operation may be brought into the same house a 



THE VARIOUS SYSTEMS OF PROPAGATION 



25 




Grape Gros Maroc 

A black vinous Grape, producing handsome bunches with extremely large berries, 
finest Grapes in appearance, but somewhat deficient in flavor. 



One of our 



26 IKLirS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

week or ten days later. If the pots are JDrought in at the time when the house 
is started they are very liable to begin to grow before the vines which are planted 
in the border. This is due to the fact that the one batch has its roots down in 
the cool earth, whereas the plants in the pots are in a congenial, warm atmosphere. 
When the young growth is about a foot long, or, at least, while the wood is 
still solt, select one of the side shoots, as near the bottom of the old cane as pos- 
sible, bring the green shoot of the cion down to the growing shoot of the stock; 
befoie uniting them make a slight cut on each shoot a trifle deeper than the bark, 
where the two shoots will be joined and tie the two together, as in grafting. 
Try to ha\e both shoots of about the same size. As soon as the cion has united 
with the stock, begin to cut it away from its own roots, and keep the stock pinched 
back by degrees so as to give strength and vigor to the cion. When the latter 
has been I ally started it usually grows very fast. 

PROPAGATION B^' GRAFTING 

Vines also ma>' be grafted, but this is a rather dilTicult operation on aecoLint 
of their nature. If grafted when the vine is dormant no union will take place, 
The most favorable time for this operation is after the first flow of sap has passed, 
or about the time when the vines are in bloom. However, I need not go into 
the details of this subject, as vines are not grafted to any extent now. 

PROPAGATION BY SEED— CROSS-FERTILIZATION 

Propagation by seed is worthy of notice, although thi- method is seldom 
resorted to since the vine is easily increased otherwise by propagation. While 
we have some excellent material for the early and Midsummer varieties, our 
late-keeping ^'arieties lea\'e, unfortunately, much to be desired; they lack that 
rich Muscat fla\or demanded of a first-class Grape. What an achie\ement it 
would be could we but infuse some of the Muscat blood into our vinous and Sweet- 
water varieties, and still preserve the keeping qualities of a Gros Colman or a 
Barbarossa! But it seems, unfortunately, that when a seedling with a distinct 
Muscat flavor is raised there always accompanies it a thin skin and poor keeping 
qualities for late ufe. As an instance of this character, note Madresfield Court, 
one of the finest of all the black Muscats. This noble variety was obtained 
by crossing Muscat of Alexandria with Black Morocco; it derived \V: color from 
the vinous variety Morocco and its rich flavor from the Muscat. 

The sole purpose of raising vines from seed is to obtain new or improxed 
varieties. But if seed is taken at haphazard the chances for any real progress 
are slight. The variety would probably only reproduce itself or, more than 
likely, would degenerate. The object to be attained is through cross-fertiliza- 
tion and close attention is required to handle this operation successfully. When 
the cap is thrown off and the anthers are exposed to the light and air, then, if 
Nature is allowed to do her work, self-fertilization will be accomplished in a 
short time. To cross fertilize one variety with another, means must be taken 
in advance of the natural development so that self-fertilization cannot be effected. 
To overcome this, select, a day or so previous to the opening of the first flowers. 



THE VARIOUS SYSTEMS OF PROPAGATION 27 

the bunch in which is intended to be the female or seed-bearing parent. Cut 
away or thin down to, say, a couple of dozen flowers, then protect this bunch 
against the attacks of insects, which may be accomplished by using a thin mushn 
bag. It will be necessary to examine these flowers closely. Just before the cap 
is ready to be thrown off, remove it with a pair of fine-pointed scissors and mime- 
diately cut away the stamens. This is an operation requiring care and patience. 
When the stamens are cut oflF, the pollen of the sort selected for the male parent 
can be apphed. Experimenters will have theii own preferences as to the choice 
of a male parent. The pollen should be applied with a very small camel's hair 
brush to the stigma of the prepared flower. As a precaution against any other 
pollen coming in contact with the bunch under operation it would be well to 
enclose the flowers operated upon in a loose muslin bag. This process will 
probably have to be repeated several times, or until the entire bunch or all the 
flowers have been fertilized. When the berries are set, remove the muslin bag. 

Hybridizers have their own pets to select from for the seed-bearing plant. 
A fairly safe guide to follow, which holds good for all other kinds of reproduction, 
is to select a plant of vigorous constitution for the seed bearer. An ideal seed 
bearer would be a good Muscat-flavored Grape, with the constitution of Gros 
Maroc or an Alicante. The hybridizer who succeeds along these lines will leave 
a name behind him. While advocating this operation, I realize that it is a slow 
and uncertain one. Yet there is pleasure and excitement in watching the devel- 
opment of a tiny seedling. We know we have succeeded in raising a seedling, 
but what will it turn out to he? And it is the uncertainty in the raising of seed- 
lings of flower or of fruit which stimulates our interest and excitement. 

Raising Grapes from seed is a somewhat tedious procees, and for that 
reason comparatively little hybridizing is being done. It takes two to three 
years from the time that the seed is sown until you may reap your reward or 
giieve over your failuie if the plant does not fulfill your expectations. There 
has been many a rejoicing over successful introductions, and also much disap- 
pointment over plants that did not come up to the standard set. The thing 
to do is to take the issues as they come, and to swallow the bitter with the sweet, 
although the bitter may be hard to digest at times. 

If you have decided to try your luck in raising seedling Grapes it would 
be well to devote a small house to that purpose, for, if the seedlings are set out 
in a border the second season, they make better headway and in fact cause less 
trouble than if kept in pots. It is not advisable tc keep the Grape seed any 
length of time before sowing, as it does not hold its germinating power as long as 
manv other seeds do. But Giapes are readily raised from seed and do not take 
very long to come up, especially where thev have bottom heat. The best time for 
planting is near the end of January. Sow the seed thinly in a small flat or pan. 
When the young plants have become large enough to handle transfer them to 
small pots and keep them growing in a moist, even temperature. Repot them 
during the season when necessary. It is poor policy to allow them to become pot- 
bound. If everything goes well the first season they will probably fruit the third 
season. If you give your seedlings the best of treatment and meet with fair 
success the fruit will repay you for your labor by its quality and abundance. 



28 



FRUITS AND VEGETABI.F.S UNDER GLASS 




Grape Black IIamblko 

A bl:ick Sweetwater Grape, excellent for early forcing or midseason, but not desirable for late 
keeping. One of the most useful black Grapes in cultivation. 



VINE BORDERS 29 



CHAPTER IV 



VINE BORDERS 

Draining a Border — Fertilizer for the Border — 
Watering — Root Action 

THERE has been much discussion in the last few years as to the correct 
construction of bordeis, and this certainly is a subject requiring care- 
ful consideration and good judgment, for on it depends the success 
or failure of the undertaking. We know from long experience that excellent 
Grapes have been grown from outside borders only. These have, howe^'er, 
been discarded for years in favor of a combination border, that is, a border 
both inside and outside. So far, especially here in the United States, the inside 
border has been generally used on account of the great advantages it presents. 
In a private establishment it gives the surroundings a much neater appearance 
by doing away with the unsightly outside grapery border. Still, I have no desire 
to discredit the outside border, but it is not necessary to make it as wide as 
is oftentimes done; a width of eight feet is quite sufficient, and such a structure 
could easily be protected against the inclemencies of the Winter through the 
use of a layer of leaves one foot thick, with a sprinkling of coarse manure on top 
to keep the leaves from blowing away. Leaves are one of the best protections 
against frost and a sure means of preventing the freezing of the soil. 

We must furthermore consider the location. If the graperies are on low 
ground, confine the borders wholly to the inside. But in selecting a location 
for fruithouses it is much better to have them on somewhat elevated ground, 
as this largely avoids the danger of what I will term waterlogged bottoms, which 
locations are most undesirable. While Grape vines imperatively call for an 
ample supply of moisture at their roots in the growing season, with this there 
must be perfect drainage, or everything will go wrong in spite of the best of care 
they may receive otherwise. Where the drainage is faulty the appearance and 
color of the Grapes are bound to suffer. 

When there is a border both inside and outside, openings or arches are 
left in the masonry, and it is a curious fact to note that the roots inside work 
their way out, especially where the outside has been prepared with the same care 
as the inside. There is something about the free, outdoor atmosphere which 
is most congenial to plant life. You will very seldom find a decayed root on the 
outside, but only vigorous, working roots, while on the inside many of the small 



30 l-RLHTS AND VEGETABIF.S UNDHR GLASS 

wurkiiig roots often clcca>' wlicii tlic\ arc at rest. 1 lui\c obscrvL-cl tliis more 
than once. But when tlie roots have the benelit of both the inside and tlie out- 
side, the vines will keep in a healthy, \-igorous condition much longer than when 
confined wholly inside. Much may be said both for and against such an arrange- 
ment. For very early forcing tiiis method has its drawbacks — the many roots 
outside are like cold feet, so to speak, but lor Midseason and early Fall I strongly 
recommend a border of about eight feet outside. W hile such a bcrder is not neces- 
sary — fruit men generally throughout this country being assured that inside 
borders are a success — yet I may sa\', without lear of contradiction, that when 
the roots are confined wholly inside the borders require mucli chjser attention 
as to \>atering, feeding, etc., and, generally speaking, more cultural skill in ordei 
to produce the best results. Another important fact to note is, that the N'ines \\ill 
retain their vigor from five to ten years longer with the additional eight feet of 
outside border. But this outside border must receive the same care as the inside, 
in the way of feeding and watering when necessary. When the \ines have to 
depend wholly on the inside for their sustenance for a period of from ten to twelve 
years, it would pay to renew them with strong one-year-old canes. After a 
vine begins to lose its vigor, it should be removed, the border renewed with fresh 
soil, and a new start made. 

The Grape is a robust, strong vine when grown under favorable conditions. 
A vine in the open ground, where Nature has full sway, will grow luxuriously, 
especially if set cut on well drained land, but if planted on a spot with imperfect 
drainage its growth will be poor and its life a struggle for existence. This is a 
fairly good lesson to guide us in the making of a border. If the vine will flourish 
in well drained soil in the open ground the fact becomes very evident that good 
drainage is vital to its perfect development. Before proceeding further, I want 
to make sure of being thoroughly understood in regard to my opinion of outside 
borders; for very early forcing I do not approve of them. 

DRAINING A BORDER 

The first and most important subject to be taken up is that of drainage. 
In some locations the natural drainage is so perfect that it is not necessary 
to incur anj^ expense on that account. But where there is the least doubt, 
then by all means resort to artificial drains. I will give instructions here for 
draining a border. In the first place, provide for an outlet for the water that 
may collect in the bottom. Here we see the advantage of having the fruit- 
house on an elevation, as the water can then be carried off with less expense. 
The soil must be excavated at least four feet below the level of the grapery. 
Then lay a tile drain down the center of the house, or houses, as the case may 
be, preferably a three or four-inch drain. Give this drain just enough fall the 
entire length of the houses to carry off the water, and leave openings 20 or 
25 feet apart for catching it. The concreting of the bottom depends to a 
certain extent on circumstances. On a cold, clayey subsoil, a rough concrete 
would be advisable in order to prevent the roots from penetrating below; the 
center should be about six inches lower than the side so that there may be no 



VINE BORDERS 



31 




32 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

lodgment ol water. All these directions refer to a span roof friiitliouse, but the 
same principles may be applied to a leanto or to a three-fourths span, only in 
this latter case the drain would be alon^ the front instead of in the center. 
About 15 inches ol ilrainage abo\e this in the center, tapering off to nine 
inches at the side, would make a le\el bottom. It is immaterial what kind 
of drainage is used; broken brickbats are good lor the purpose, with a thin 
la>cr of oyster shells on top, if a^'ailable, although this is not absolute!\- neces- 
sary. The main object is to finish the conduit off with some material that will 
prevent the soil from washing through and clogging up the channel. From the 
drainage to the surface of the border there should be from two and one-half 
to three feet for soil, and then, to make the drainage doubly secure, place a 
tough sod, if it can be secured, laid grass side down over the drainage be- 
fore any loose soil is put in. One may then rest assured that there will net 
be much danger of poor, clogged drainage. 

The Grape vine will thrive in many dillering kinds of soil, though that best 
adapted to a vigorous growth is a fairly heavy loam. A good rose soil is all 
right for the grapery. If you have pasture land at command containing good, 
loamy, virgin soil you may consider yourself fortunate, for this sod land is ideal 
and lasting. Some of the most successful borders in past years have been made 
with such sod land laid into the border, grass side down, without chopping or 
breaking the sod more than necessary. The object in using all sod only is that 
the soil will last and keep in a sweet, healthy condition much longer than ordi- 
nary soil. Moreover, the fibrous roots of the sod are of much benefit and the roots 
seem to revel in it. 

If we consider that the success of the years to come depends upon this 
preliminary work we readily realize that the best of material to be had is none 
too good for the purpose. While these small details may seem expensive to the 
inexperienced fruit grower, they are, nevertheless, irrportant factors toward pro- 
ducing fruit of the first quality. We will then have the satisfaction of knowing 
that the coal bill is not higher for a good crop of fruit than for a poor one, and 
that it will not cost any more labor to produce the one than the other. There- 
fore, taking everything into consideration, I venture to say, that money spent 
on good constructi\'e work at the outset is capital well invested, paving the way 
to future success, and tlie eventual returns will more than repay for the outlay, 
provided the borders get the proper care. 

FERTILIZER FOR THE BORDER 

All \ine borders must be enriched witli some kind of manure, though no 
hard and fast lines can be laid down in this respect. Some soils will take more 
than others to good advantage. But more vine borders have probably been 
damaged by overfeeding than otherwise. In a jjorder made as described, the 
vines will make a rapid and luxurious growth for a year or so with little or no 
manure added. 

Now tlie question arises as to tiie fertilizing ingredients best adapted to 
promoting the health, ^•igor and fruit-bearing qualities of the vines. Farm- 
yard manure has been used more or less for enriching the soil, though it is a 



w 



VINE BORDERS 33 

well-known fact that it decays rapidly; its virtue is soon lost and it cannot be 
recommended as an enduring manure. But as a top dressing, later on, wiien 
the vines are established, its influence is remarkable, either as a surface dressing 
or appHed in liquid form. I have often thought, in my work of fruit growing, 
what a great advantage it would be to us if we knew exactly what our soils were 
composed of, for they vary considerably in their composition. If all soils were 
of the same nature it would be an easy matter to say how much to apply of this 
or that so as to get the best results. 

Each and every grower must feel his own road to success as to the quantity 
of manure, feitihzers, etc., he shall apply. The quantities recommended here shall 
be small. I have found through many years of practical experience that it is much 
easier to add than to take away. I mean by this that, as the vines get thoroughly 
established after a year or so, and the roots are active, great results may be ob- 
tamed by systematic surface feeding, not too heavy at one time, as this may burn 
the roots, but by feeding often and lightly. This question of feeding and en- 
riching the soil is such a fundamental one and so necessary to success that a 
book could be written on that one subject alone. No grower will be successful 
to any extent unless he makes a thorough study of this important question of 
feeding. There is an old saying, that plants cannot talk, and this is true in a 
ay, but the close observer can easily tell when the plant has had all that is good 
for It. The foliage is one of the most expressive factors in plant life. All suc- 
cessful, up-to-date growers make a careful study of the foliage and its condition 
and are greatly influenced thereby. It should have good substance and feel 
leathery to the touch; but, should it begin to feel brittle, then one must be quick 
to diminish the feeding. There are times when our foliage has been very unsatis- 
factory through some error of treatment, maybe poor root action. Under these 
conditions beware of overfeeding. In order to produce good fruit the foliage 
must be perfect, every vein showing up distinctly, then the fruit will finish up 
accordingly. But, as I have previously remarked, it would be interesting for 
this important work to know just what the soil should contain, as, with this 
knowledge, we could then supply the deficiencies. 

We do know, however, that in order to grow the Grape vine and fruit it suc- 
cessfully, there must be more or less potash in the soil, according to its nature. 
This can be applied in the form of nitrate of potash or as hardwood ashes. When 
we have a border which contains phosphoric acid, potash and nitrogen, we have 
a combination of food elements that should prove satisfactory for the well-being 
of the vine. Bone, which contains phosphate of lime, is one of the most val- 
uable fertilizers for the Grape border, especially toward the bottom. Use half- 
inch bone for this purpose, the lasting qualities of which are well known, and in 
the proportion of one part of bone to fifty parts of soil, with a sprinkling of 
potash, according to the condition^-of the soil; the roots will receive 
benefit from this mixture for years to come. If a good quality of hardwood 
ashes can be procured, they may be used to advantage for supplying the desired 
amount of potash, taking about one-third less than of the bone; the best obtain- 
able should be secured. 

These are all the food elements necessary to put into the lower part of the 



34 FRUITS AND VliGUTABLES UNDER GLASS 

iDurdcr, but a great deal depends on tlic nature of the suil. It if an easy matter 
to prescribe tiie best soil i'or the purpose, but unfortunately the ideal is not al- 
ways at hand though the deficiencies can be met to some extent. Should the 
soil be iieavy, add a few loads of old brick or lime rubbish, say at the rate of one 
load to twenty of soil or anything to cause root action. Charcoal refuse will 
answer the same purpose. As we near the surface of the border manures of 
quicker action should be applied, such as a line grade of bone. I will recom- 
mend for this purpose a complete fertilizer for fruit under glass, which was 
compounded a number ol >ears ago by Mr. Thomson of Clo\enfords, Scotland, 
and which still stands pre-eminent as one of the best chemical fertilizers for all 
stone fruit. I am informed, on good authority, that Thomson's vine manure 
is used more and more every year for I'luit growing under glass. The gardener 
who once gives this manure a fair trial will always thereafter carry a few bags 
on hand. This may seem a somewhat strong recommendation to any one who 
has never used it, but I can safely say that Thomson's manure is gaining new- 
friends every year. Therefore, a few bags ol it, for the surface, is money well 
in\ested. Mix a bag of 112 pounds with four wagon loads of soil; this should be 
ample for the top to gi\'e the vines a good start. But it is onlv after the \incs 
are well established that one begins to value this manure at its true worth 
as a top dressing. The \ines need every season a light top dressing of soil 
and manure. About two pounds of \ine manure to the square yard will 
give to the surface roots something to work on. Another light applica- 
tion may be given after the Grapes are thinned out, if the vine roots be 
near the surface. Mix a little fine soil with it and, in every case, give 
the border a moderate watering after applying the dressing. Should 
the border require a thorough soaking, this may be done a day or two before 
the top dressing is given, as a light watering is preferable after applying 
Thomson's manure. 

As 1 have previously noted, no set rules can be laid down ior feedmg. \\ hen 
the vines depend wholly upon the inside border they require feeding oftener than 
when they also have the run of an outside border. And, again, as the border 
gets full of roots, they will naturally require more food. 

There may be difl'erences of opinion as to the best wav of making a border, 
that is, whether the whole amount of soil should be put in at once, or whether 
the border should be built up in sections, about four feet wide to commence 
with, and adding thereto as the roots penetrate through until the border is 
tilled. This method will work successfully. But as, in our climate, the 
evaporation is rapid during the Spring and Summer months, this narrow f order 
requires water so often that I prefer to build the whole at once. With perlcct 
drainage and care in watering during the first season there is not much danger 
of souring the border. 

As time goes on and the \'ines become thoroughly established, the border 
must be overhauled each season before starting up the house. A plentilul 
supply of working roots near the surface being desirable, all the loose soil should 
be removed and a top dressing applied which should consist of about half soil 
and half rich farmxard manure with a light sprinkling of Thomson's manure 



VINE BORDERS 35 

and bonemeal. This will put the border in good shape, and nothing more in the 
waj^ of feeding will be needed until the Grapes are thinned. 

WATERING 

It should be borne in mind that when the vines are at rest the border should 
be allowed to get fairly dry. Under these conditions it is surprising to note the 
amount of water which is required to saturate the soil all through. Watering 
plays a most important part in the successful finishing up of the crop, just as 
much so as does systematic feeding. If the vines suffer for want of moisture at 
their roots at any time during their period of active growth, the result will be an 
unsatisfactory finish, and probably some of the stems of the berries will dry up 
or get into the condition known as "shanking." This serious trouble is brought 
on through careless watering, imperfect drainage, careless airing, etc.; more 
often by too dry a border than through an oversupply of water, for it will bear 
repeating that Grapes must have abundance of moisture at their roots while they 
are in active growth or at least until they begin to color. Then it is advisable 
to withhold water somewhat. The vines will much appreciate a thorough 
soaking at their roots just as they begin their second swelling; this will be after 
they have completed their stoning period; at that stage they should get this 
watering and, if necessary, a good feed as well. Liberal treatment at this stage 
will considerably increase the size of the berry. If this watering will carry the 
crop along until the fruit is colored, so much the better, as I do not approve of 
heavy watering now, if it can be avoided. The grower who allows his fruit to 
color between waterings will get decidedly the best finish and, without perfect 
finish, color and bloom, all our efforts will yield but medium results. The expe- 
rienced fruit grower takes much greater pride in the color and bloom of his 
Grapes than in large bunches; if the two first are lacking, we have erred some- 
where in our work. 

ROOT ACTION 

Perfect root action must be maintained to the end that a perfect crop be 
secured. If we find no working roots near the surface on examining the border 
a few years after having planted the vines, then there is something wrong, 
especially if the vines are confined to inside borders only. It would then be well 
to look for the cause and remedy the evil. If we dig down we shall probably 
find only long, bare roots, instead of the mass of fibrous roots so desirable for 
obtaining the best results, though there may be a few fibrous roots at the ter- 
minal ends. After clearing away the old soil and renewing it with a fresh, open 
soil, these roots may be brought a little nearer to the surface before covering 
them up again. If there are no fibrous roots, with a sharp knife, cut nicks here 
and there along the bare roots, and young fibrous or feeding roots will develop 
as a result of those cuts. This operation should be performed in the early Fall, 
after the season's wood is ripened up, but before the leaves drop, as then the 
roots will get a slight start. In any case, the old roots will callus where these 
nicks are made, and will be ready to send out fibrous roots in the Spring, or 
whenever the heat is turned on in the house.j 



36 



I-RUITS AND \IIGETAB1.ES UNDER GLASS 




Grape Ladv Hutt 

A comparatively new introduction. A white Sweetwater Grape of robust grow th and good quality. 
Valuable for a late grapery as its Iceeping qualities are excellent. 



CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 37 



CHAPTER V 

CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 
Airing the House 

THERE has probably been more written concerning the Grope vine than 
about any other fruit. Different growers have, from time to time 
within the last one hundred years, given valuable information and 
cultural directions, so that it might seem as if very nearly the last word had 
been said as to the wonderful possibilities of the vine in northern latitudes. 

Where the climatic conditions are not favorable to outdoor culture, the 
consumer must depend almost wholly upon the hothouse product. But that 
is not the case in this country, with its wonderful and varied temperatures. 
In the United States fruits of all kinds can be and are produced outdoors even 
in the northern sections. Splendid crops of Grapes are grown there, and the 
same fruit that comes up from the south is well known. In this land of plenty, 
which Nature has showered with her products, I hardly expect to see indoor 
Grape growing carried out on any scale as a commercial enterprise, as the out- 
door competition from all over the country has a tendency to militate against 
its successful operation from the money point of view. 

In Great Britain different conditions obtain. There mammoth establish- 
ments have sprung up within easy distance of the English metropolis during 
the last thirty or forty years. The largest growers are probably the Rochfords, 
who have nearly fifty acres under glass, about one-half of which is devoted to 
the culture of Grapes for the London market. This establishment alone produces 
hundreds of tons of Grapes every year. A few years ago I had the pleasure of 
visiting this wonderful plant and the sight was a bewildering one. 

Rapid advance has been made here in recent years in the cultivation of 
hothouse Grapes in private establishments, and the greater number of the new 
ranges now set up include provision for the production of fruit under glass. This 
is not surprising in view of the high class of fruit that can be grown in this way. 
There is, furthermore, as an incentive, the pleasure our employers deri\e from 
the products of their own greenhouses. Grapes under glass, if properly handled 
and finished to the highest state of perfection, are incomparably superior to the 
outdoor fruit, for we have all the factors toward bringing about the best results, 
such as heat, moisture, etc., and, above all, there are no storms to damage the 
fruit, so that a bunch of Grapes perfect in finish and without a flaw may be sent 
to the dining table, and this the millionaire owner of the house appreciates. 



38 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

Grape growing under glass is not sucii an expensive luxury as it migiit seem 
to the uninitiatecL Naturally, it eosts a little more to produce extra early fruit; 
still it is this same early I'ruit that is so higiily prized. Some people still have 
the opinion that fruit grown under glass is of inferior quality, but the rich men 
arc waking up to the fact that Grapes produced in their own home greenhouses 
arc unexcelled for beauty of appearance and richness of llavor, as they are allowed 
to remain on the vine until fully matured, and arc sent to the table within an 
hour after being cut from the vine. I ha\ c heard it argued more than once: Why 
go to the c\]:)ensc of growing fruit under glass yourself, when you can purchase 
it so cheaply in the open market.' But those who ask such questions do not 
really know the hothouse product. 

Taking up now the culture of the Grape vine from the time that the house 
is started until the Grapes are ripe, we are confronted with many details. In 
the first place, it must be understood that newly planted vines should not be 
started up until about the hrst of March, for so doing any earlier would simply 
be a waste of coal and as well would injure the young vines. It is best to accli- 
matize the \incs gradually to the forcing process. After they have been forced 
a few seasons, they can, if necessary, be started in the middle of December, and 
with the temperatures that I will give later ripe Grapes may be had at any time 
from the ist to the loth of May. 

Three compartmentE are required for a continuous succession of fruit through- 
out the season, one each for early, midseason and late vaiieties. With such fa- 
cilities at command there should be a steady supply of Giapes for at least eight 
months out of the twelve. If we have our three compartments, the early house 
should be started in the middle of December, the midseason house in the first 
week of February, and the late house the first of April. I recommend a mod- 
erate temperature when first starting a house, especially in Midwinter, when 
the sap i; very sluggish. It takes some patience to go into the house day after 
day and see no apparent change, yet we are gradually acclimatizing our vines to 
their season's work, although it takes a month to detect the move. Under 
these conditions beware of rushing on too much heat. 

The method I have followed for many years with success sufiTicient to recom- 
mend it is to start with a temperature of .4.5° to 50° at night, with a rise of 10° 
during the day, rising five degrees every tweh'e or fourteen days until 65° is 
reached at night and 75" by day. This will be suflicient to carry the vines until 
they begin to bloom. Then a temperature of 70° by night and of 80° by day 
is in order; from this time on nothing will be gained by further raising the 
temperature. 

AIRIXG THE HOUSE 

At the same time the house should be aired. While this may seem a siniplc 
operation to the inexperienced, much depends on the way of doing it. The 
hothouse plant is subject to catching cold if not kept in a fairly steady tem- 
perature. The man in charge of a grapery must watch the airing ^ ery closely, 
particularly in the Spring months; and the only man adapted for this work is 



CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 



39 




Grape Barbarossa 

Producing bunches of large size; best adapted for late use. The flavor of this Grape is ijnproved 
by allowing the fruit to stay on the vine some time after it is ripe. 



40 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

llic Dill.' w hu lo\ cs his calling. Careless airing causes no end dI trouble. I 
tliink that red spider is more often the result of careless airing than of dryness 
of the atmosphere, though both cause the spread of this destructive insect. 

There arc many details to be remembered under this head of airing, all of 
wiiicli must be attended to in order to grow and finish up a house of Grapes 
successfully. During the early forcing, the night temperature is regulated by 
artificial heat. Then the day temperature will be from 10° to 15° higher, ac- 
cording to the state of the weather. In clear weather the day temperature 
will naturally reach the higher mark. Still, it is not advisable to wait in the 
morning until the thermometer registers the day temperature, but put a crack 
of air on when the temperature has risen about five degrees, gradually increasing 
as the temperature goes up. There is one principle which must be borne in 
mind when airing, namel\, nc\er admit air to the extent of dropping the tem- 
perature suddenly-. The air should gradually be put on and also be gradually 
reduced so as to have always a fairly steady temperatuie. As long as there is 
fire heat in the house we can close down so that the temperature will rise a few 
degrees, but after the artificial heat is suspended, which \^ill probably be in 
the early part of June, leave a crack of air on, for if a house is closed tight, 
with no fire heat on, the condensation is too great, and this may give rise to mil- 
dew. Mildew is very destructive in a grapery, especially at that stage when 
the berries are small; the fungus seems to attack the bunches more readily than 
the foliage, and serious trouble will result when they have become infested. 
As the berries start to swell they are liable to crack, and as all the split berries 
must be cut out, considerable loss might result. With fire heat it is a good plan 
to close the grapery early in the afternoon, allowing the temperature to even go 
up to 85°. When the artificial heat is cut off, however, then mildew will spread 
very rap'dly in a tightly closed grapery, but if you always leave on an inch or 
so of air, after the fires are dispensed with, that fungus can more easily be kept 
down. There must be plenty of moisture during the day. Vines like a moist, 
humid atmosphere. 

From the time a grapery is started until the shoots are an inch long, tlic\- 
may be sprayed to good advantage three or four times a day, then twice a da> 
until the Grapes begin to bloom. After this period it is not necessary to spray 
any more. If the vines are sprayed between the time of thinning up and color- 
ing, the berries may get disfigured with the water lodging on them. The same 
moisture and atmospheric conditions can be maintained by dampening down the 
border, the walks, and the ends of the houses or any free space that can be 
sprinkled, but keep the water off the berries if you want perfect finish. Any 
one in the habit of spraying up to the coloring period may think that the red 
spider would now have a chance to get in its deadl>' work, but this need not 
be if you keep an even, moist temperature. It is the sudden changes in the 
temperature, whether it be high or low, which encourage the spread of insect 
life. But should the red spider make its appearance, it must be checked 
at once and there is nothing better for this purpose than a light dusting with 
powdered sulphur. Red spider does not thrive under this simple treatment, 
and it should he applied as soon as the pest is detected. 



CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 4J 

Airing plays a prominent part in eventual success or failure. Grapes re- 
quire as much skill when they begin to color as at any other time during their 
growing season. If they receive a check from any cause at this stage of their 
development they will not finish up to perfection. It is not wise to water the 
border at this time if it can be avoided. But this depends entirely on the nature 
of the soil, some soils drying out much more quickly than others. If a border 
receives a thorough soaking when the berries commence their last swelling it 
ought to carry them over their coloring. It is the aim of fruit men to get intense 
color and finish. Furthermore, Grapes that color up with perfect finish will 
hang on the vines after they are ripe much longer than Grapes that have not 
colored up properly. 

Airing at this stage is an important factor in the coloring process. Let up 
somewhat on the moisture, keep a little more bracing atmosphere. Start in 
with a small crack of air on the bottom vents and gradually increase. The vines 
should have all the fresh air possible, providing that the temperature is some- 
where between 75° and 80° by day and 6 j° and 70° at night. Bottom air should 
not be used at any time through the Summer until the Grapes start to color 
for it causes too dry an atmosphere and the berries do not seem to swell away 
so freely. 

It is important to observe here that when the border is well filled with 
roots, the vines should receive their two main feedings, the first after the Grapes 
are thinned and the second as they commence their second swelling, after com- 
pleting their stoning period. 



42 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 




PLANTING YOUNG VINES 43 



CHAPTER VI 

PLANTING YOUNG VINES 
Plants Rooted from Eves — A Correct Trellis 

VINES may be planted either in tiie Fall or in the early Spring, according 
to circumstances. I prefer the early Fall, as then a little root action 
will take place, especially if the vines are planted about the end of 
October or the first weelc in November. If neither the houses nor the borders 
are ready to receive them at that time it is best to wait until the turn of the 
season, which will be about the first of February. Inquiries have come to me at 
different times on the subject, and I have always recommended early Fall plant- 
ing. There is, however, quite a difference of opinion as to just the best time and 
some of my correspondents have not been able to understand the object of 
planting in the Fall and letting the vines rest seemingly dormant for months. 
My opinion is, that of two plantings, one made in the early Fall and the other 
about the first of February, the former would come away the stronger of the two. 
Such a trial would be a fair test of the two methods. 

Canes which have been grown one year in pots and thoroughly ripened are 
the best for planting in the border. Still, there is a great difference in the stock. 
I have seen so-called one-year-old canes that I would not plant at any price. 
Get the best canes obtainable and cut them back to within two feet. If they are 
good, strong canes they will be in about nine-inch pots and fairly well matted 
with roots. These roots must be carefully disentangled, preserving all the 
fibrous roots. The safest way is to knock them out of the pots the evening 
before planting and to place the balls in a tub of water; the soil will have fallen 
away by the following morning and the roots may then be easily straightened 
out. Spread the roots on the border and cover them with about three inches 
of soil. A mulch of farmyard manure may be put around the vines to prevent 
evaporation. Give them a light watering first to settle the soil around the roots, 
but do not saturate them. They may be planted one inch lower than they were 
when growing in the pot. Allowing the ball of earth to be thus dissolved may 
seem rough treatment, but if you plant your vines with the ball of earth as they 
are taken out of the pot you will live to regret it, for they will make but a poor 
attempt to grow. Another fact to be considered when planting in a newly made 
border is that it will probably subside somewhat; so, if the vines are tied at all, 
they should be tied loosely so as to allow for this subsidence. 



44 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 




A Grape Vink Thri;i; Months Old 



PLANTING YOUNG VINES 45 

PLANTS ROOTED FROM EYES 

Another method of planting which has proved successful, although it is not 
used to the same extent as planting the ripened canes, may interest the grower 
who has a propagating house at his command. This method consists m plant- 
ing young, growing vines. Root them from eyes at the end of January, grow 
them along in bottom heat, pot on when necessary, up to about six-mch pots; 
this will be at the beginning or the middle of May, if they have done well: 
they may now be set into their permanent place in the border. The only differ- 
ence between planting the green vines and the ripened vines is that the former 
are planted without having their roots disturbed. As these roots are not pot- 
bound they will, if the soil is firmed gently around the ball, start off without a 
check. I have seen wonderful canes produced in one season by this method. 

As to the distance between the canes— these are generally planted by the 
one rod (single stem) system. But I have seen excellent results obtamed when 
two rods are allowed to come away from each plant. Under these circumstances 
they should be planted eight feet apart. But it is preferable to confine each 
plant to one rod. .The distance apart should not be less than four feet and it is 
better to allow a little more. There is nothing to be gained by overcrowding, 
and if we consider that the side shoots extend, as a rule, over two feet, we can 
readily understand why fully four feet is required. In a small grapery it is 
desirable to set as many rods as possible, so as to get the greatest returns out of 
the space, but if planted closer than I recommend, it will be found a poor propo- 
sition when it is all too late to make a change. 

If the grapery is to be a span roof house, plant the vines, as near the wall 
as possible on each side, at a distance of four feet or a trifle over, accordmg 
as the space will work out; for instance, for a house 50 feet in length, 24 canes 
would be needed, 12 on each side. 

A CORRECT TRELLIS 

The trellis is another quite important matter to be considered. Green- 
house builders are apt to miscalculate the wiring of the house in that they do 
not leave sufficient space below the glass. There should be ample allowance for 
a good circulation of air between the foliage and the glass, otherwise there is 
danger of burning from the hot rays of the sun. There is nothing more unsightly 
in a grapery than burnt foliage, aside from the serious damage incurred. The 
wires for training the vines must be from 18 to 20 inches away from the glass for 
a fair circulation. It is in the Spring and the early Summer, or when there is 
not much air in the house, that there is danger of the foliage being caught by the 
hot rays of the sun. And, moreover, if the vines are trained too near the glass, 
ideal conditions are furnished for the spread of red spider, and there is nothing 
that fruit men dread so much as this pest. 

It is a simple matter to adjust the wires for training the shoots. Usually 
angle iron is run horizontally between the rafters as a support. Strong screw 
eyes, 18 inches in length, may be screwed into this angle iron, say, about one 
foot apart. Then run wires perpendicularly; these should first be secured to 



46 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



the cell plate, then passed througii the screw eyes up one side and dawn the 
other and fastened again to the cell plate. The wires should be a foot apart all 
through the house. No cross wiring is required for a grapery. This, of course, 
explains wiring for a span roof house. 




A Grape Vine Eve Jlst Rooted 



METHODS OF PRUNING THE VINE 47 



CHAPTER VII 



METHODS OF PRUNING THE VINE 

Treatment of Young Canes — The Short Spur System — The Long Rod 
System — Tying the Vines — Adventitious or Aerial Roots — 
Keeping the Fruit Healthy 

CORRECT methods of pruning are highly important for ultimate success, 
and the first study in this connection is the condition of the wood. 
Many a fruithouse is practically left to care for itself after the season's 
crop has been gathered. But this is wrong, for the grapery must have the same 
care afterward as to watering and spraying as was given while the crop was 
maturing. New fruit buds have to form after the crop has been gathered, and 
these cannot mature perfectly if neglected in any way. The border should, of 
course, be gradually dried off toward the Fall, bearing in mind that the follow- 
ing season's crop depends entirely on the condition of this season's well ripened 
wood. If the wood be imperfectly ripened the results will be unsatisfactory, 
whether the vines are treated for the long rod system or for the spur system of 
pruning. 

There is a difference of opinion as to the amount of frost which should be 
allowed in a grapery. All fruit trees are benefited by receiving a certain amount 
thereof, and I should recommend from 10 to 15 degrees of frost, providing the 
wood has been thoroughly ripened up; but in very severe weather it is advisable 
to turn on the heat on one side of the house, leaving the pipes empty on the other 
side, if the heating system will allow of this. All heating systems should be 
arranged with a view to such partial heating, and all piping in fruithouses should 
by so placed that the water can be drained off in the Fall without interfering 
with any other part of the range. 

TREATMENT OF YOUNG CANES— THE SHORT SPUR SYSTEM 

Having explained the importance of fully ripened wood to work on, I will 
now pass to the subject of young canes. The newly planted vines should be 
cut down to about one foot above the soil. These canes will naturally have 
made a strong, vigorous growth the first season, reaching perhaps to the top of 
the house. It will, to the uninitiated, appear quite a sacrifice or even a waste 
of apparently good stock to prune them back to four or five feet from where they 



48 FRLIIS AND VEGETABl.lLS UNDliR GLASS 

\M'rc tut bt'lorc, l:)ut this upcration will more than pay in the long run, as it 
will lay the foundation of the vine for all its lifetime, especially with regard to 
the spur system, which is the best all-around and most generally employed. 
The long rod system can be recommended onl\ for shy setting varieties or in 
cases where a few large bunches are the aim. If the canes have made an excellent 
grovNth the first season, four or li\e feet of the new growth may be left. There 
should not be more growth loft than will break away strong and even. General 
conditions and the vigor of tlic plant should govern this cutting, as this is the 
time when the spurs will be formed for another season. If we can arrange it 
so that our spurs will be at an even distance on each side of the cane, namely, 
about 15 inches apart, and we allow another four or five feet of new wood to 
remain each year, until we have the desired length of cane, it should take about 
four years, il the \ incs make a good growth each year, for the \'ine to reach the 
top. That is for the spurred system. 

The mode of bearing of the Grape vine is different from that of many other 
kinds of fruit trees. With the majority of fruiting trees we can tell in the Fall 
what the prospect will be for the coming season, as regards a plentiful supply 
of fruiting wood, but with the vine it is entirely a matter of conjecture, for the 
bunches will spring from the young wood, sometimes one on a shoot, and again 
as many as three on the same shoot, according to its condition and vigor. 

While the Grape vine will submit to almost any kind of training desired, 
the straight rod system is the best, that is, allowing one red to a plant. I have 
seen as many as two or three canes taken up from the same root, training each 
cane apart so that the one plant would cover a space of about 12 feet if three 
shoots were taken up. But this is not done to any extent now and it has no 
advantage over the single rod system. 

The Grape vine will stand hard pruning, especially when the wood is well 
ripened, but careless pruning will destroy a vine in a few years if too much of 
the young wood is left on. Such treatment will result in long, ungainly spurs, 
which are very undesirable. The shorter the distance which the sap has to travel 
along the spurs the better. And we must resort to close pruning if we want to 
keep our spurs close to the main stem. The object of pruning is to produce 
vigor. In leavingtwo or three buds, the terminal will come away the strongest 
and maybe the eyes at the back would stay dormant. Prune hard back, for 
one well developed bud is all that is necessary for each spur. For by pruning 
back to the seeming one good eye, probably one or more eyes w ill develop and 
come away in case of accident to the one intended. 

The Grape vine produces, as a rule, more bunch than is advisable to be 
left on unless, for some reason, a certain variety is shy in showing bunches. 
Some varieties will occasionally show queer streaks. For instance, I have seen 
a Barbarossa vine show bunch freely in some parts, and again nearly absolute. 
refuse in other places, or showing perhaps only two or three bunches on a vine, 
although otherwise perfectly healthy and vigorous. In a case of this kind it 
is well to use more potash on the border and less of other manure, as potash 
promotes the fruit bearing qualities of the vine. 

The photograph shown on opposite page represents a vine about ten years old, 



METHODS OF PRUNING THE VINE 



49 




A Grape Vine, Showing Method of Pruning 



50 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

sliowing plainl\ the nictliocl of piuninii; I'lDni year to >car, on the s|)ur s\stem. 
II sucli a \ ine had not Ijeen pruned well baek eacli \ear to one well de\eloped 
bud tlie spurs would ha\e been long and ungainly; the failure to prune back 
is also of disad\antage to the development of the vine, lor long spurred \ines 
will produce but ordinary Grapes. Without doubt, it takes considerable nerve 
to cut a vine baek in this manner, for it seems as though we were lea\ing but 
small possibilities lor the production of fruit for the following season. 

To follow up this method of pruning successfully it is absolutely necessary 
that the wood be thoroughly ripened. The practical fruit grower will know, 
when pruning, if the wood is in good shape. The test is that the cuts in well 
ripened wood will dry up at once and will look almost like old wounds in a few- 
hours. But should there be a watery tluid, or what is termed bleeding, we 
realize at once that the wood has not ripened up fully. While this bleeding 
will not kill the vine it will weaken the buds considerably. Howe\er, as a 
preventive, even when there are no signs at all of bleeding, it is well to put some- 
thing on the cuts to close up the pores. There is a styptic preparation sold by 
seedsmen, but brown shellac will answer the same purpose. Unfortunately, 
when a -vine once begins to bleed, neither of these preparations will remedy 
the evil. This trouble will generally be most noticeable when starting a house, 
lor when the first sap begins to flow large quantities of water are taken up through 
the roots, and the probabilities are that the evil will not be adjusted until the 
canes commence to break into growth, which action will, of course, furnish an 
outlet for the surplus sap. But this bleeding will, in any case, weaken the \-ine 
considerably, and fruit men will guard against this e\'il as much as possible. 
The best preventive is ripe wood. 

The question naturalK' follows: What is the correct method of securing 
ripe wood.^ To which we make answer: Ey keeping on all the air possible after 
the fruit is gathered, both top and bottom, gradually drying off the borders 
as the foliage begins to ripen, and if the \ines can be gi\'en a few degrees of 
frost before they are started again for another crop it will benefit them. Give 
them treatment as near as possible to that of Nature. Do not allow the frost 
to penetrate at haphazard, but give them eight to ten degrees. To ripen bv 
coddling will produce poor results. 

A grapery for late use, which would be started about the first of April, 
must be pruned long before that date, otherwise there will be serious trouble. 
By that time the sap will be in action and, even with ripe wood, serious bleeding 
would iollow. Indoor Grapes should not be pruned later than the middle of 
February or, better still, a week or so earlier. This refers, of course, to late 
houses. 

THE LONG ROD SYSTEM 

The long rod system, is, as I have said, not used to any extent, but if extra 
large bunches are desired they may be produced through this system, and it 
may also be applied to varieties that are shy fruiting. I have in mind a notable 
variety which is not grown much in this country, so far as I know, namely, the 
Duke of Buccleuch, which has berries considerably larger than those of Gros 



» 
METHODS OF PRUNING THE VINE 



51 



Colman. The finest bunches of this variety I have ever seen were produced 
by the long rod method. Any other variety which is shy in producing 
bunches may be treated in the same way. 

^ In the long rod system the principle is to employ one long cane as the 
fruiting vine, allowing another strong shoot to come away from the base, train- 
ing it up for the following year's fruiting cane. The cane that produced the crop 
of fruit is cut away in the Fall and the new one takes its place. Thus all the 
two-year-old wood is dispensed with. This method is much better suited for a 
short span house than for a large one. Many years ago this style of treatment 
was much in vogue, but experience has shown that the spur treatment of prun- 
ing is the most simple and will yield a much heavier weight of Grapes, although 
the bunches may not be as large individually as those obtained by the long rod 
system of pruning. And, moreover, so much is lost as to number of bunches 
that the odds are considerably in favor of the system now used. Still, if you have 
a variety which is not satisfactory under the spur system, by all means try the 
long rod. 



TYING THE VINES 



Young vines should not be tied into position before a house is started, as 
the sap is liable to rush away too freely toward the terminal buds. They may be 
tied loosely along the side of trellises, or they may be tied half way up in posi- 
tion and the tops bent over and secured to a stake in the border, the object of 
this being to check the sap somewhat, so that all the eyes will break even. After 
these difficulties have been surmounted the canes should be tied up in their per- 
manent position for, if the top shoots are allowed to take the lead, they will do 
so at the expense of the bottom. It is not necessary to bend the canesdown as 
the vines get larger, especially if they are given a fair amount of time; in other 
words, do not rush them with too high a temperature. 

ADVENTITIOUS OR AERIAL ROOTS 

Much has been said and written from time to time with regard to aerial 
roots and their cause, that is, roots produced all the way up the vine stem. 
This has been attributed variously to the make up of the border, to imperfect 
root action, to cold, and to poor drainage, which I have not the least doubt 
would bring about these aerial roots. I have also seen them along the stems 
of vines that were started early in the season, while a later house would be 
entirely free of them. The make up of the border and the drainage were the 
same in both houses, proving clearly that close atmospheric conditions are 
favorable to the growth of air roots. When more ventilation is used in late 
Spring they perish and no harm is seemingly done by their appearance when 
they have been brought on by too close an atmosphere. 

In general, it is impossible to give much air during January and February. 
But should air roots appear to any extent in the late graperies where there is 
plenty of ventilation, then there surely is something quite wrong. There is 
either poor root action, or the roots are down in a cold bottom, or both of these 



52 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

conditions obtain tofictluT. But when these are present in \ei\ early graperies 
I am convinced that the adventitious roots are due to atmospheric causes, and 
tlie blame should not be put upon poor root action, cold feet, or any other cause 
outside of the close atmosphere, and for this there is no remedy until the warm 
weather comes in the Spring. 

KEEPING THE FRUIT HEALTHS' 

The housekeeper is generally gauged by her cleanliness and orderliness 
and, similarly, the fruit man. We may produce fine bunches of Grapes, but if 
\vc are negligent in keeping our houses clean, a fine bunch of Grapes will not 
offset the insects, mealy bug and red spider, which we fail to keep down. To 
maintain clean houses requires the most constant care. Insect pests can \ery 
easily be carried into a grapery, but it is not so easy to eradicate them when 
once they get a foothold. One should be very cautious in allowing the man who 
has charge of the fruithouses to work in the planthouses, if it can be a\oided, 
as the fruithouse may easily become infected in this way with undesirable 
tenants. Once they get in (and they like the atmosphere), they will spread 
rapidlw 

All fruithouses should be thoroughly cleaned before starting them up, 
even if they already seem to be clean. Pre^•ention is the best cure. Clean also 
ail the loose bark from the vines, for if this is allowed to remain on it may 
become a lodging place for insects. Do not, however, strip the vines too much, 
but pull away only the loose bark that will rub off easily; it will not hurt the 
rod and may sa^•e much trouble later. For it certainly is difficult to eradicate 
these pests when the vines are in actix'e growth. It is also a good plan to wash 
the vines with a solution of whale oil soap or Gishurst's Compound, using 
enough to make a good lather. If these precautions are taken, the house washed 
down, and all the loose soil on the JDorder removed before putting on the top 
dressing, whether there are signs of noxious insects or not, there is no reason why 
the grapehouse and the Grapes to be borne therein should not be perfectly 
clean. Aside from the unpleasantness. Grapes will not keep for any length of 
time with mealy bug on the bunches, nor will they finish up satisfactorily. There- 
fore it pays to be on guard against all these evils and to fight the cause before 
the enemy has had time to enter, for the chances are all in fa\or of the bug when 
once he gets into the bunch. 




■^DISBUDDING, PINCHING SHOOTS, SETTING THE FRUIT 53 



CHAPTER VIII 



DISBUDDING, PINCHING OR STOPPING THE SHOOTS- 
SETTING THE FRUIT 

Pinching or Stopping the Shoots — Setting the Fruit — Red Spider 

AT this stage the fruithouse becomes interesting, for when the vines once 
/ \ break into growth they make rapid progress; so fast do they come 
along that one can almost see them grow. If everything goes well, 
the fruit man is generally from this time on in his glory, watciiing the develop- 
ment of the buds. When the bunches make their appearance and come up to 
or beyond expectation tiie work is an alluring one, and tlie man with a love for 
his calling will never tire of attending to all the details that go toward bringing 
the crop along successfully. And as we all rejoice more over a perfect crop than 
a poor one, it behooves us to keep our grapehouses in the best possible condi- 
tion. It may seem a paradox to saj^ that it is easier to produce a good crop 
than a poor one. The secret of success lies in keeping the vines up to full vigor, 
and to accomplish this calls for good judgment, particularly in feeding, for 
when a vine once loses its vitality it becomes a difficult problem to produce 
first-class fruit. 

You take a certain pride in showing visitors through a range of fruit- 
houses when they are in the pink of health. To note the different houses as they 
come along in rotation, when one is thoroughly interested in this line of work, 
is a pleasure which increases with each succeeding year. 

Attention to many and varied details is required to carry the work to a 
successful issue. Disbudding is one of the first operations to be attended to 
after the vines break into growth. While it may seem a simple operation, the 
man who has this work in charge should understand all the rudiments of fruit 
culture under glass, and particularly as applied to young vines. All shoots 
not necessary may be rubbed off. In the young vines the shoots should be left 
as near 15 or 16 inches apart as may be, allowing for the natural distribution 
of the buds along the cane. As this preliminary work determines the forma- 
tion of the spurs for many years to come, it should be entrusted only to a careful 
man, one who takes a real interest in his work. If he can manage to arrange it so 
that the spurs will average about 15 inches apart on each side of the cane, he will 
come pretty close to the mark, allowing one shoot to each spur. The leading or 
terminal shoot should be taken care of when but a few inches in length. Tie 



54 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

it t(i the wire for support, lor these shoots are apt to snap oil when \erv Noung, 
and that woiiicl natiirall\ clisligure and weaken tiicni; we like to see this leading 
shoot make a good, strong growth, which means stronger shoots from this lead 
the following year. For spur shoots the best time for disbudding is when tiie>' 
are about an inch long. Sometimes three or four shoots come awa\- at a spur; 
under these conditions do not take all the surplus shoots away at one time, 
but disbud down to two shoots, then wait a day before remo\ing the other But 
disiiud to one shoot before they get far acKanced, as then the full strength is 
concentrated in the remaining shoot. After the house is disbudded to the 
proper number of shoots, the remaining ones must be handled carefullj-, for the 
young shoots of the Crape \ine are exceedingly brittle and, when thej- are growing 
strong, in careless hands irremediable destruction may be done. If a shoot is 
snapped from a spur it may easil>' cause the loss of the spur. While such a loss 
ma\ ncit stand in the way of a full crop, still it means a disfigurement which 
should be avoided. 

When the shoots are disbudded, they must be tied, and this operation of 
bringing them into position requires as good judgment as that of disbudding. 
The shoots naturally draw away toward the glass when left to themselves. Yet 
they should not be tied too soon. Allow them to run until they get near to the 
glass, but keep them away from it, otherwise the foliage is apt to get damaged. 
Bring the shoots down to the trellis by degrees, and take your time in securing 
them to their permanent positions, for when they are a little older they will be 
firmer at the base and not so liable to snap. While the shoots are being brought 
down, the men working in the fruithouse should be instructed to be cautious 
in going through, and not to slam the doors, a bad habit that is often found among 
them and of which they should be broken. A sudden jar will cause a vibration 
overhead which would be liable to snap off the shoots if they are very brittle. 
The men can work just as fast with less noise. When all the shoots are tied 
down evenly the house has a neat appearance. 

Shoots are sometimes tied straight out, on what is called horizontal train- 
ing. I do not recommend this method. It is better to have the shoots inclined 
slightly upward, the terminal ends being a trifle higher than the base; this is a 
more natural position. A training at an angle between the horizontal and the 
oblique is a good medium between the two. Aside from the better appearance, 
this angle is more favorable to their growth than the horizontal position, especi- 
ally so for weak growing varieties. 



PINCHING OR STOPPING THE SHOOTS 

As regards pinching or stopping the shoots, it has been generally recom- 
mended to stop the shoots at the first or second joint beyond the bunch. But 
at times the bunch will appear much nearer to the main cane, and you must 
use your judgment whether to stop them at one, two, or three joints beyond 
the bunch. The shoots should be left long enough so that when fully developed 
there will be foliage sufficient to cover the entire roof or trellis without crowding. 
Bear in mind that one perfectly de\eloped leaf will count more than two poor 



DISBUDDING, PINCHING SHOOTS, SETTING THE FRUIT 



55 



ones. But perfect foliage is impossible with overcrowding. A fairly safe 
metiiod to follow is to pinch at the second or third leaf, and if the shoot is later 
on found to be too long, another leaf can easily be pinched back. However, 
it is best to do this while the wood is still soft; the length required may be easily 
ascertained. 

Shortly after the shoot has been stopped, side shoots will appear along the 
new wood, commonly designated as laterals; as soon as these appear they should 
be pinched at the first leaf. This operation will have to be repeated several 
times throughout the season, according to the thriftiness of the growth, stopping 




Grape Alicante 

An oval, black, vinous Grape, best adapted for late use, as its keeping qualities are of the best. 

Merit, third rate for flavor. 



56 FRUITS AND VEGETABI ES UNDER GLASS 

at tlic next leal, and .so on. The leading .shocjt should not be so treated wiieii 
needed for the purpose ol extendlni; tiie lentrtli of the rod, but it should be allowed 
to grow until it begins to crowd into other foliage; then it will be necessary 
to pinch it and also to stop tiie lateral growths. Much pinching as the Grapes 
begin to color is not advisable, this being one of the niost critical periods in 
their culture; the least check at this stage may be producti\e of unfinished fruit 
and a deliciency of color. Fortunately, just about this period, the vines do 
not as a rule make niueh surplus young growth, if tlie laterals are gone o\er 
immediately before they begin to color it will carry them until the coloring is 
complete. Then again, some varieties arc liable to produce split berries at this 
time if a lew laterals are allowed to remain of a \ariety which are subject to this 
trouble. Madreslield Court, for example, must be treated \ery carefully at 
this juncture or there will be split berries, and this practically. means ruination 
to the bunch, as all the split berries must be cut out. 

SETTING THE FRUIT 

In regard to setting the fruit, the general method of treating Grapes under 
glass here is very similar to that practiced in other countries and climates. But 
we have to make some allowance for our dry atmosphere as against a more moist, 
humid climate. I remember growing Grapes in a very moist climate, where 
little or no water was allowed on the border during the flowering period of the 
vines. But it is different here, and we can secure a better set by damping down 
the house lightly once every bright day, even the Muscat house, provided the 
atmosphere is dry toward night. In comparing the practice of Grape culture 
in the eastern United States with that of other countries, I ha\'e maintained 
for many years that we must watch our conditions here more closely, for the 
simple reason that generally no fire heat is used after the first week in June, 
our temperatures after that date being too high to require artificial heat. So, 
as I have said before, we cannot close up the same as with fire heat, on account 
of the danger of mildew. As soon as the fire heat is dispensed w'ith, about an 
inch of air should be left on at all times. Or, before the fires are shut down, 
leave a crack of air on to accustom the vines to the air treatment. While Grapes 
like a humid atmosphere, the condensation is too great when the house is closed 
up tight with no fire heat. 

Some varieties will set much more readily than others. It is discouraging, 
to say the least, after the Grapes have passed their blooming period, to see 
certain varieties swell away uneven, which will, in this case, mean seedless 
berries to a certain extent, and this may become a serious matter when there 
are not enough perfectly fertilized berries to fill out the bunch. Seedless berries 
at their best are small in size and they are liable to shrivel up or fall off, so 
they are not worth counting on at all. 

Weather conditions are an important factor at the llowering period. We 
are all anxious to have bright sunshine, or at least some sunny weather w hile 
the \ines are in blossom, even if it lasts only from ten to twelve o'clock in the 
morning, thus allowing the pollen to distribute itself. Then: must also be a 



DISBUDDING, PINCHING SHOOTS, SETTING THE FRUIT 57 

good bracing atmosphere, for the pollen cannot dry properly in a close, humid 
air. A little air should therefore be admitted even on dark, cloudy days. This 
can be regulated according to the weather. If it is cold outside, a little extra 
heat will counterbalance the crack of air. 

The pollen should be in condition around eleven or twelve o'clock, noon, 
so that a gentle tap of the bunch will send it flying in all directions. If the 
bunch is tapped gently with the fingers around mid-day and no pollen distrib- 
utes itself, this may not affect results materially for that day, but if it occurs 
two or three days in succession then look out for seedless berries. This applies 
particularly to the Muscats. 

White Muscats are the finest of all the hothouse Grapes. They require 
close attention during the season of setting their fruit. The best and most 
successful way to manage is to see that the pollen gets dry, then each day, or 
while they are in bloom, go over each bunch about mid-day, separate and give 
a gentle tap with the fingers. I prefer this treatment to that of a camel's hair 
brush, for the Grape vine flower is so delicate that through its use one is apt 
to damage the stigmas or pistil. If a little air is used on the house, with extra 
heat m the pipes, if necessary, a good, substantial set may be obtained under 
this treatment, and the seedless berries will be brought down to the minimum. 
With very free setting varieties, such as Black Hamburg, a gentle shake of the 
rod is sufficient. Most of the varieties will set admirably in a temperature of 
65° by night and 75° by day, but Muscats do better with five degrees higher. 
When the weather is clear and the pollen has been distributed, the border 
may be slightly dampened so that it will dry up before night. I have followed 
these methods now for many years with good success. It has been the custom 
with many fruit growers after the fruit is all set and has begun to swell away 
to spray the foliage again, both morning and evening, on every clear day until 
the fruit begins to color. This is not at all necessary, and may disfigure the 
berries more or less; when there is lime or iron in the water, as is often likely 
to be the case, the disfigurement may be serious. 

RED SPIDER 

There should be very little danger of red spider if the house has received 
the proper care as to damping down and the keeping up of a fairly steady tem- 
perature, but if the crop receives a check through too much or insufficient heat 
we are preparing the way for an attack of red spider and other diseases. In 
growing Grapes under glass we cannot control the sun any more than when 
Nature takes care of them, but we can anticipate, to a certain extent, the factors 
making for desirable growth, as to correct temperature, moisture, etc., and if 
we supply these as needed, we may well feel assured of satisfactory results. 



58 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 




No. 1 — Bepore Thinning 



GRAPE THINNING 59 



CHAPTER IX 



GRAPE THINNING 

THE operation of thinning tiie Grapes is one requiring experience and 
good judgment. Before starting tiiis operation it is advisable to take 
into consideration the number of bunches it is desired to carry on each 
rod, as the vine will, in general, produce many more bunches than it should be 
allowed to carry. While a vine in full vigor, would, if untouched, produce enor- 
mous crops for a few years, its life would be of short duration, and its strength 
would become exhausted beyond the hope of recuperation. So it becomes 
expensive, in the long run, to leave on too heavy a crop. It is better and decid- 
edly more economical to carry a fair average crop each year. 

It is impossible to state' exactly how many bunches would constitute such 
a crop, for what would be a fair crop for one grapery would be an over-crop for 
another. It all depends on the conditions. A grapery in full vigor is in con- 
dition to carry a heavier crop than one of medium vigor. The bunches, also, 
often vary considerably in size, and this factor must also be taken into account. 
I realize full well that it takes nerve and knowledge to go into a grapery, before 
commencing to thin the berries, and to cut away all the surplus bunches, but 
it is imperative that this should be done before the thinning is started. It is 
very hard to estimate the weight of the Grapes, too, as the bunches do not show- 
up to advantage. I admit that it has the appearance of making a great sacrifice 
to cut down to the proper weight, especially if we have to prune away promising 
bunches, but it is not safe to leave more Grapes on the cane than can be properly 
finished, and this overload is not apt to be detected by the uninitiated until 
they begin to color. 

Many a promising house has shown up well until the coloring period, and 
has then fallen off because the grower had not had sufficient experience and 
decision to cut away his surplus bunches. It is too late to do this after the 
Grapes have reached the coloring stage, for then the mischief has been done. 
0\ercropping is not always the cause for Grapes not coloring; neglect in many 
another way will bring about the same result. But overcropping is a serious 
cause and we cannot expect highly finished fruit under those conditions. 

I will state that, in a general way, the crop in a span roof house about 25 
feet wide, with the vines in a thrifty, healthy condition and the rods fully grown, 
if running from 25 to 30 pounds to the rod, would constitute a good average. 
While this may seem to some a low ratio, yet, for private use, one perfectly 
finished bunch will count more than two poor ones. 



6o 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER CLASS 




No 2 — Ai-TCR Thinning 



GRAPE THINNING 6t 

Grape thinning should be begun as soon as the berries are known to have 
set perfectly, which will be when they are about the size of small peas. As a 
test, if a few bunches are thinned and the work then stopped for some days, 
the bunches so thinned will be noticeably ahead of the others, thus showing 
plainly, in addition, the advantage of early thinning. 

Grape thinning is tedious work, and requires considerable practice before 
It can be done with speed. The younger the man when he begins this work 
the more readily will he be able to grasp the required experience. A novice 
looking at a bunch just after thinning, when it appears to be a mere skeleton, 
may think that too many berries have been cut away. A beginner seldom 
cuts out enough berries at one thinning, while the experienced cutter will be 
able to gauge the bunch the first time. 

Then, again, there are differences in varieties; some having short, stiff 
stems, such as the close clustered varieties Black Alicante and Gros Colman. 
Varieties of those types require more thinning than others which carry longer 
fruit stems, such as Barbarossa. Sufficient berries should be thinned out so that 
each individual berry has room in which to develop fully. At the same time, 
the bunch, when fully ripe and cut from the vine, should retain its natural shape 
just as It did when hanging on the vine. There is nothing more disappointing 
than to have the bunches spread apart. Experience is here the best teacher and 
the close observer will soon be able to figure out this important branch of the art. 
Grape thinning, though tedious, is interesting. The bunch must not be 
handled or, at least, the berries must not be touched with the fingers. The 
correct way is to hold the scissors in one hand and a small stick in the other, 
either a straight stick or one with a small crotch at the end, so that the parts 
of the bunch can be held more securely in thinning. The inexperienced oper- 
ator who may happen to be assigned to this work side by side with an expert 
who has been doing it for years, should not strive to keep up with the latter if 
he wants to thin his bunches to the best advantage, but should rather go slow 
at first. Speed will come only from practice. 

It IS sometimes desirable to tie heavy shouldered bunches, and this 
should be done with a small piece of raffia fastened to the largest shoulders and 
eased up to the cross wires. This may be done before commencing to thin, as 
It IS then easier to operate around the bunch, but it is necessary only with extra 
large shouldered fruit. The photographs will explain this work and give a 
good idea as to how it should be manipulated. 

An expert thinner can go roughly over such free setting varieties as Black 
Hamburg, Foster's Seedling, Alicante, and others of this type, at first cutting 
two or three berries at a time, after which he may adjust the bunch and thin 
the rest out. The main object should be to cut away the majority of the berries 
that are on the inside, also all the small berries or those which appear to be 
imperfectly set; and then to thin the rest down to the correct space. Endeavor 
to make the first thinning the first and last, but usually the bunches have to 
be gone over for a second thinning. While it may seem a waste of time to go 
over the work again, even an expert may miss his calculations and find it necessary 
to repeat the operation. 



62 



FRUITS AND VRGETABLliS UNDl-R GLASS 




Grape Foster's Seedling 

No. 3 — Same Bunch as Nos. 1 and 2, Taken Nine or Ten Weeks Later 

White Sweetwater Grape, well adapted for early forcing or midseason, producing bunches 
iarfier than Biickland Sweetwater; otherwise, quality is the same. 



GRAPE THINNING 63 

There is a wide difference among the varieties as to the size of their berries. 
Gros Maroc and Gros Colman want more space in which to develop their berries 
than does Black Hamburg, and the latter again wants more space than a Fron- 
tignan. For these reasons it is essential that the Grape thinner become thor- 
oughly familiar with the peculiarities of each variety under his charge. A good 
idea is to leave the bunch a little thicker on the top than below, as the shoulders 
have a chance to raise up somewhat, but leave sufficient berries to close the 
stem properly. This makes a more perfect finish than bare shoulders. 

The photographs will illustrate the instructions, as I have laid them down. 
No. I shows a bunch before thinning; No. 2 is the same bunch a few moments 
later; No. 3 is the same bunch taken nine or ten weeks later, when fully ma- 
tured. Each berry was given space sufficient to develop to its full size, and 
the bunch will retain its perfect shape when cut from the vine. 

In this work of thinning, the object to be borne in mind is to thin so as 
to allow for the full development of the berries, but not so much so that the 
bunch will lose its shape after being cut. 



64 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 




CuAi'E Madresfifld QuKr 

One of the very best Bhick l\lusc;its. Merit, first dass. Excellent variety for either early or 
midseason, producing large, oval-shaped berries 



COMMERCIAL GRAPE CULTURE ' 65 



CHAPTER X 



COMMERCIAL GRAPE CULTURE 

IN countries where outdoor fruit is not overabundant, commercial Grape 
growing has reached enormous proportions and mammoth estabhshments 

have sprung up to supply the demands of the large towns and surrounding 
districts. But in the United States circumstances are different. Here we have 
plentiful supphes from the South, where the climate is so well adapted for the 
production of Grapes, as well as for many other fruits. The Northern grown 
Grapes also flood the markets in late Fall. I am well aware that these are not 
hothouse products, but, nevertheless, they all help to keep down prices to the 
point where there would not be much profit for the commercial grower. If 
Grapes could be produced commercialljf in late Fall and held over on the vines 
(as they are in climates where the temperatures are not so fluctuating or ex- 
treme) say till February and March, when fruit — or at least Grapes — are scarce, 
there might be some encouragement to embark in commercial Grape culture. 
Unfortunately, however, owing to our extreme climatic changes, Grapes cannot 
be kept in first-class condition after about the end of December; and even at 
that they would have to be the very latest keeping kinds, although, if I were 
going to make a venture commercially, I would rely principally upon the early 
varieties. With abundance of light and sunshine, we have unquestionably 
favorable conditions for early forcing which would enable us to get fruit ready 
before the glut came from the South. By starting a grapery, say ist of De- 
cember, ripe Grapes (such as Black Hamburg, which would be the best for that 
purpose) may be ready for market by the end of April. 

It must be borne in mind, also, that Grapes can be produced on a large 
scale at less cost than when grown in small quantities. Ideal conditions for 
successful Grape culture would be a depth of a couple of feet of good, loamy 
soil, with a gravelly subsoil to ensure good drainage. It would then not be 
necessary to prepare the border — simply build the grapery and trench over the 
soil, adding, in doing so, a fair coat of bonemeal; then plant the vines. It would 
be folly to follow out this plan unless good drainage was assured; but where 
circumstances are entirely favorable it would effect a great saving of time, labor 
and money. True, a year or so would elapse before many Grapes could be 
gathered, but the commercial Grape grower would utilize the space in the mean- 
while to bring in returns by producing Tomatoes, with little or no harm to the 
border. I am strongly of the opinion that very early forced Grapes would be 



66 FRUITS AND \ l£GETABLES UNDER GLASS 

a better paying proposition than late kinds, for two reasons: A large quantity 
of hothouse Grapes are imported in late Fall and through the Winter months, 
the Europeans, with the advantage, especially in late Winter, of a more even 
climatic temperature, being able to keep them in better condition; while anotiier 
factor in tiielr favor is tlie much cheaper labor, which diminishes the cost ol 
production. 

It is not my desire to discourage this enterprising and interesting occu- 
pation — far frt)m it. Neither would I feel justified in misleading anyone to this 
undertaking. There would, no doubt, be a brisk demand for well finished Grapes 
at fashionable seaside resorts during the season, for there is no Grape that would 
sell better in the Summer and Fall months than the Muscat of Alexandria, with 
its rich Muscat flavor and general high quality. Then, for a late Grape for 
commercial purposes, Gros Colman is by all odds preferable to any other, bearing 
a handsome bunch with massive berries. Other \arieties might be suggested, 
but there are none that would yield greater returns than those mentioned. 

A word may be said with regard to packing. Careless packing often results 
in sadly disfigured fruit. There is no better receptacle than a basket with an 
open top, say one which will hold lo to 12 lbs. of Grapes. Place some soft ma- 
terial on the bottom; then line with wax paper, folding it over the fruit when 
packed, and over all tie securely a piece of strong, double paper which will serve 
as a lid, with the projecting handle as a protection from damage during express- 
age. By proper attention to these details the grower will reap his reward in an 
enviable leputation and a better demand for his products. 




GRAPES BEST ADAPTED FOR EARLY AND LATE USE 



67 



CHAPTER XI 



VARIETIES OF GRAPES BEST ADAPTED FOR EARLY AND 

LATE USE 

Best Varieties for Pot Vines-Sweetwater Grapes-Vinous Group 

THERE is an abundance of varieties to select from, over one hundred 
having been mentioned by different writers. I will here give merely 
_ a selection of those which I have found to be the best and most reliable 

finish tT nf%TT^^ '" be famihar with the quality, productiveness, 
finish, etc. of all the different varieties and to fully understand all their pecu- 
liarities before full confidence can be placed in them. I have had more or less 
personal experience with most of those that I shall recommend and anv careful 
grower can handle them successfully and determine for himself their good and 
bad pomts. It IS easy enough to set down a long list of fruit, but then the ques- 
tion arises of discarding the inferior. 

It is impossible for anyone to attempt to grow at one time all the varieties 
which I am about to describe. In a private establishment where Grapes are 

!Z^ f° ^r '"^l"' '""'!'' '" ^""'■'^'^'^ ^^"^^^^^' P^Pe^Iy selected, are 

ample for all purposes, rom the early to the late. This, again, depends on the 
taste of the owner or the market demand. Some families may want a large 
tZS Th ° " "'^. ^^.s^tis^^ed with one sort if it can be made to la't 
through the season, as, for instance, Muscat of Alexandria. But this noble 
Grape is unfortunately, not a good keeper for late use, and we, therefore, have 
o resort to the thicker skinned kinds. But where Grapes are grown to any 
extent, or where there are three compartments, one each for eaify, midseason 

Grapes. Musca of Alexandria seems to thrive best in a house by itself. Madres- 
field Court Black Muscat will do splendidly in the early house! and also m t^ie 
at one but it cannot be depended upon to hang for any length of time after 

ful stabii;7v "f '°"P'^7\^ ''t°^ ^™'' ^''' '^'' ^''^ '^'' ^- -«'i- the wonder- 
ful stabihty of some of the oldest varieties. While new introductions are sent 

Rl.i™ R T' '° !i"^'; "°'^'"^ ^^' ^PP"^'^^ t« supersede the old standbys, 

they wtt'tT T'' °' ^'^•^^"'"" ^""'^ ^^^ ^^ P-— t t°d^y - 

they were in the years long gone by. However, there is a comparatively new 

Grape which is making a bid for popularity, although I have not had any expe" 



68 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

rieiice with it as \ct. This is a ialack Muscat, Prince of Wales, said to be an 
excellent late keeper and, if so, tiiere will be room for it. The improvements 
made in the \arieties ol hotiiouse Grapes are not so far aci\aneed as those made 
witii other fruits, such as the Peacii and the Nectarine, althoujih valuable work 
lias been done in this direction. Unavailing attempts have been made to eclipse 
Black ilamburg and Muscat of Alexandria, but the name of the hybridizer 
who succeeds in surpassing either of these two varieties will live throughout 
the ages. 

My list of Grapes comprises varieties for early, midseason and late houses. 
While it is not necessary to have just the quantity named in the early and late 
house, all mentioned will be found adapted for the seasons recommended. If 
there is but one house, the selection for the early house will answer the purpose, 
perhaps adding Muscat of Alexandria and Gros Colman. 

The Early House. — Black Hamburg, Appley Towers, Madresileld Court, 
Foster's Seedling, Buckland Sweetwater, Royton Muscat. 

Midseason House. — Muscat of Alexandria. 

Late House. — Black Alicante, Alnwick Seedling, Gros Guillaume, com- 
monlv known as Barbarossa, Gros Maroc, Gros Colman, Madresfield Court, 
Lady Hutt, and if an extra large bunch of white Grape is needed for late use, 
Trcbbiano may be added. This latter sort is an excellent keeper; but aside from 
this qualification and its large bunches, Trebbiano may be classed as second or 
third rate; it ma\ be improv-ed somewhat by allowing it to hang on the vine. 

BEST VARIETIES FOR POT VINES 

\\'hile quite a number of the free setting kinds will be found adaptable 
to the pot treatment for fruiting purposes, there are in particular two or three 
kinds which can be handled with the greatest certainty of success. Black 
Hamburg is an ideal variety for pots, a good, clean grower which presents no 
difficulty vvhate\er in securing a good stand and, above all, it will finish up to 
perfection with decent treatment. It must, therefore, head our list. Others 
are Royal Muscadine, Foster's Seedling, Madresfield Court and Gros Colman. 

The following list of Grapes may be valuable. I have thought it best to 
divide them into three groups, namely, Muscat varieties, Sweetwater \'arieties 
and ^•inous varieties, with a short description ol each. I will repeat that it is 
not advisable to try too many kinds, but rather to make a selection of those 
adapted to the different purposes. In compiling and grouping the list, I have 
purposely discarded many sorts, as it would but cause confusion to name all the 
known kinds which have been mentioned from time to time. Opinions may ditfer 
as to the value of my list, but such as I have included are sufficient for all prac- 
tical purposes and, according to my experience, the very best and most reliable 
for growing under glass. 

MUSCAT GRAPES 

Muscat of Alexandria. — This Grape is well known for its excellent qualities, 
both by the grower and the consumer. The latter, especially, will always appre- 
ciate the high standard of excellence of this noble Grape. It should be one of 



GRAPES BEST ADAPTED FOR EARLY AND LATE USE 



69 



the leading kinds produced where there is any pretence at Grape culture. 
Strange to say, it is one of the oldest varieties and still the best of its class. There 
have been a number of so-called improved varieties begotten from it, but, so 
far as I know, Muscat of Alexandria is in a class by itself. While there is' no 
Grape that will respond better to good treatment, careless management will 
surely bring on failure. This Grape may be grown fairly successfully in an early 
mixed house, but the best results will be obtained by giving it a house to itself, 
for it requires a longer season than many other varieties before the fruit is ready 
for use; it also needs a somewhat higher temperature, especially while ripening. 
Canon Hall Muscat.~U this variety could be generally grown success- 
fully, it would undoubtedly be eagerly sought after. It is rich in flavor, the 
berries are very large and of a deep amber color when ripe. But probably not 
one in twenty growers will make a success of it. It seems almost impossible 
to secure a satisfactory set and it is, therefore, disappointing. While I admit 
the excellent qualities of this Grape, I cannot recommend it highly because of 
its deficiencies in setting. 

Bowood Muscat.— This is a variety of Muscat of Alexandria, requiring the 
same care and treatment. There is no great difference noticeable when seeing 
them growing side by side, although the berries may be a trifle rounder. 

Royton Muscat.— This is an excellent variety of Muscat of Alexandria, 
with large, oval berries. It was introduced many years ago and is worthy of 
mention here. While it has all the good qualities of Muscat of Alexandria, 
and will grow well in association with this latter, it can be raised more suc- 
cessfully in a mixed house than Muscat of Alexandria, its nature being a trifle 
hardier. 

Madresfield Court Black Muscat.— This is one of the very best of the black 
Muscats and, when well done, is a truly noble Grape, possessing large berries. 
It has graced many an exhibition board and has carried off' high honors. It has 
stood the test for at least forty or fifty years and is still one of the leaders in its 
class. Though it is a Muscat Grape it does not require strong heat. Just as 
good results may be obtained with it in a late house as in an early one. The 
secret of success is not to allow any condensation to lodge on the berries when 
they begin to color, or split berries will surely come, disappointing the grower. 
_ Mrs. Pince Black Muscat.— This sort is valuable for its late keeping qualities; 
It also thrives in a late house, as it does not require a strong heat to bring it up 
to Its best form. It sets freely and is, generally speaking, a good cropper. Its 
weakest point lies in its coloring qualities, for it seldom colors up satisfactorily. 
Otherwise, it is a distinct Muscat Grape. 

_ Muscat Hamburg.— This variety has been largely grown for man\- years 
It IS a bit difficult to handle, that is, in finishing up to perfection. In the first 
place, Its setting qualities are not of the best, for it often produces a number 
of seedless berries; then, again, it is at times weak in color and subject to shank- 
ing in many places. It is not altogether desirable for our climate, but for a grower 
who can finish it up perfectly it is worthy of a place. Some of the best and most 
perfect bunches produced have probably been from vines grafted on Black 
Hamburg. 



70 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

Prince oj Wales. — This is a comparati\ely new \ariet\'. While I ha\c had 
no personal experience with it tlic reports from across the Atlantic are in high 
praise of the new Black Muscat, as a free cropper, easy doer and, abo\e all, an 
excellent keeper. 

SWEETWATER GRAPES 

Black Hamburg, like Muscat of Alexandria, really needs no special men- 
tion, being so well known. It will respond to any reasonable treatment and is 
not nearly so exacting in this respect as the Muscat. Black Hamburg is the 
friend of the amateur as well as of the skilled grower. It will adapt itself to early, 
midseason or late houses, but it cannot be kept long in good condition after 
becoming ripe. More of this variety is probably grown throughout this country 
than of any other Grape, and it can be relied upon to give satisfaction in every 
respect as a free cropper, free setter, and easy doer. 

Black Prince. — While this variety cannot compare with Black Hamburg, 
it is still a comparatively easy Grape to grow and color up. It ripens perhaps 
a little in advance of Black Hamburg. It is not grown to any extent. 

Buckland Sweetwater. — This is a round, white Grape, ripening at the same 
time as Black Hamburg. It is largely grown for early use. At its best the 
berries are fairly large. While this Grape will hang for some time after ripening 
its quality will be injured if it is allowed to hang too long, and the quality at 
its best is none too good. 

Foster's Seedling. — This is a strong, robust grower and an extremely free 
setting white Grape. It is a seedling from the Sweetwater and apparently 
of stronger constitution. It can be allowed to hang longer than the Sweet- 
water. 

Royal Muscadirie (White). — This is a free setting Grape with medium sized 
berries. It is very well adapted for early forcing. The bunches will hang for a 
considerable time after ripening, a desirable quality, especially where there is 
only one grapery. 

Golden Hamburg. — The name itself would denote an excellent variety and 
it was grown to some extent in former years. But the quality is nothing extra, 
and it should not be allowed to hang long after being ripe; it is a variety of no 
great merit. 

Lady Hutt. — This is a late white Grape, admirably adapted for that pur- 
pose. It can be held in good condition until Christmas or the New Year. It 
is a strong, vigorous grower and a free setter. The berries are of medium size 
and will improve in flavor if left hanging on the vine for some time after ripening. 
Duke of Buccleucb. — This is one of the largest berried Grapes in existence 
and, when well done, is of noble appearance. But, unfortunately, this variety 
is very often practically a failure; being a very thin skinned Grape it will spot 
easily and then begin to decay. Consequently, it cannot be kept in good condi- 
tion any length of time after ripening. I have seen this Grape at its best when 
growing with Black Hamburg. The most perfect bunches will be found on the 
young wood; therefore the long rod system is the best for it. 



GRAPES BEST ADAPTED FOR EARLY AND LATE USE 7, 




Grape Black Hambi 



72 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

VINOUS GRAPES 

Alicante (Black). — Fi)rmc'rl\- this was acknowledged to he the standard 
!ate Grape lor both pri\atc and commercial purposes, but in recent years Cros 
Colman has outstripped it in favor. It is a Grape of eas>- culture, with large, 
massive bunches, of excellent color and heavy bloom. It is an ideal variety 
for exhibition purposes, but tiie flavor at its best is only third rate. 

Alnwick Seedling. — This is \aluable as a late Grape. Its keeping qualities 
are of the best and the bunches very handsome. 

Appley Towers. — This variety makes a good companion to grow with 
Black Hamburg, as it thrives under the same treatment. As it takes longer 
to ripen its fruit, it is in good form by the time Black Hamburg is used up. 
While it is classed as a late grower I can secure better results with it in the early 
house than in the late. This Grape will hang for a considerable time without 
shri\cling. It requires thinning out fairly well in order to allow the berries to 
expand to their full size, which is above the average. 

Barbarossa, or Gros Guillainne. — This variety is noted for its large, massi\e 
bunches. A well finished bunch of Barbarossa is a fine sight. Still, Barbarossa 
has a serious fault: it will at times absolutely refuse to show fruit while other- 
wise perfectly healthy; on this account it is not advisable to plant more than 
a cane or so. 

Gros Maroc. — This is a very easy doer and is recognized e\erywhere as an 
excellent varietj'. The berries are nearly as large as those of Gros Colman, but 
cannot be kept so long in good condition. With its intense black and heavy 
bloom, Gros Maroc makes a picture for the dinner table not easily forgotten. 

Gros Colman. — This is the standard black Grape today for late work. It 
requires no particular treatment, being what one may aptly term an every 
man's Grape. It is a strong grower and always full of bunches. It should not 
be started up later than the first of April if it is intended to finish up before the 
short days set in, for it takes a longer season to color than do some of the others. 
Lady Downs. — Like Alicante, this variety has been relegated to the rear 
in favor of Gros Colman. While it has excellent keeping qualities it is subject 
to scalding under our hot sun, which is a point to its disadvantage. 

Raisin de Calabra. — A round white Grape of rather poor quality, but a 
good keeper. 

Trebbiano. — This white Grape is suitable for those growers who want an 
extra large bunch for late use. An old acquaintance of mine in Scotland once 
produced a bunch weighing twenty-six pounds. 

Tokay. — Has large white berries of tender flesh and fair quality, borne on 
large bunches. It requires a fair amount of heat to bring it up to its best. It 
is no longer widely grown. 

Froritignan Varieties. — The Frontignans were grown years ago. While 
the flavor is all that could be desired, the berries and bunches are small and 
this, no doubt, is the reason why it has been discarded to a certain extent. Its 
tendency to shanking or shriveling also causes the grower considerable annoy- 
ance. But the flavor of the Frontignan varieties is pleasant. Grizzly Frontig- 
nan. White Frontignan, and Auvergne Frontignan are probably the best. 



GRAPES BEST ADAPTED FOR EARLY AND LATE USE 



73 



Among the new Grapes, Milton Constable, Diamond Jubilee and Lady 
Hastmgs are making bids for supremacy. They will have to stand the test 
of time and experience. I pass no judgment upon them, as I have not had them 
under observation. 

Some five or six years ago a very uncommon condition was noted here in 
a bunch of Grapes on a Black Hamburg vine. Shortly after the Grapes were 
thinned I detected one bunch presenting an appearance quite different from 
any of the others, and when matured the berries were as large as those of Gros 
Colman, but with no resemblance to the variety that produced them. I raised 
a few seedlings of this vine, and they fruited for the first time this (igii) season, 
producing the exact counterpart of the bunch in question, both as to size of 
berries and color, which is an intense black. They ripened at the same time 
as the Black Hamburg, and the berries— larger, if anything, than Colman— 
were of excellent quality. I hope to have a much finer lot in the coming season, 
as the vines are much stronger. The fohage is altogether different from that of 
the parent vine. 




Grape Vine, 30-40 Years Old, of the Variety Gros Guillaume, on the Estate of 
Baron Alfons de Rothschild, Wien, Germany 

Weight of bunches, 3-6 kg., even up to 10 kg. Bunches often 19 x 10 in.; berries, 

2M X 3^4 in. around. 

Courtesy Moeiler's Deutsche Gartner-Zcitung 



74 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CHAPTER XII 



INSECTS AND DISEASES 

Mealy Big— Red Spider— Thkips— Vine Weevil — Mildew— Scalding 
OF the Berries — Rust — Shanking 

IT is absolutely necessary for the well-beino- of the vine to keep a sharp lookout 
for insect pests, as great damage can be done in a surprisingly short time, 
particularly when the foliage is tender. Every means must, therefore, be 
taken to guard against those evils, which are many. In the first place, a grapery 
should be used to grow Grapes in and for nothing else. No plants with the least 
trace of insect life on them should ever enter the grapery, for this means bor- 
rowing trouble. It is much safer to keep all plants away from that building; 
even though they may seem perfectly clean there may be sufficient insect life 
hidden on them to cause trouble and annoyance for the entire season. Many 
of the most destructive insects are small and not easily detected without the 
aid of a magnifying glass. I have at times seen plants stowed away in graperies 
for the Winter months, subjects that did not require much heat, and from these 
there is probably not much danger of insect life, but even then there is alwaj'S 
a certain risk involved when making a storehouse of the grapery. We do not 
treat the vines properly when we accommodate other stock in the fruithouses. 
Keep your graperies empty throughout their resting period; give them all the 
fresh air possible, with a certain amount of frost. Then they will start away, 
when needed, in full health and vigor. But if you coddle up your grapery when 
the vines are dormant for the sake of other plants you run the risk of insect 
pests and kindred diseases. 

The treatment of insect pests and fungous diseases has been discussed by 
able writers, and it is not my intention to go deeply into this matter here, but 
I will point out some preventive measures. I believe much of this trouble is 
brought on by climatic conditions. In raising fruit with artificial treatment, 
we can select the conditions best suited to the welfare of the plant. For instance, 
if a grapery receives a check in the growing season, the result will be a crop of 
mildew or red spider, or perhaps both. This is a plain indication of neglect, or 
of some fault of treatmemt, as careless airing, too dry an atmosphere, or sudden 
changes of temperature. All these cause the spread of undesirable insects, 
with the exception of mealy bug, which is one of the most dreaded pests of 



INSECTS AND DISEASES 



all. The humid, moist atmosphere oi' the grapehouse encourages their rapid 
increase and the bunches are their playground. The spread of mildew and 
red spider may be checked by maintaining a steady, even temperature. 



THE MEALY BUG 



While it is easy to check red spider, the mealy bug infesting the house means 
ruination to the crop. The best remedy is wood alcohol, applied before it be- 
comes widespread. Keep the alcohol on hand in the grapery, and, on the first 
appearance of the bug, apply lightly with a brush. It is not necessary to rub 
the alcohol in, as you may thereby scorch the foliage, but a light touch will do 
no harm and is quite sufficient to kill the bug coming in contact with it. Keep 
the bottle tightly corked when not in use. The best opportunity to fight this 
pest is when the house is at rest, at which time thoroughly cleanse the vines 
and the house. But even then there may be enough left to cause serious trouble 
for another year, especially if the house was well stocked the season previous. 
The best time to look out for the stragglers that escaped in the house cleaning 
is just as the vines are breaking into growth. The bugs are then creeping from 
their hiding places and they should be destroyed at this juncture before they 
begin to multiply, for, when they once get into the young foliage, they increase 
so rapidly that it seems a hopeless task to attempt to eradicate them then. 
Though there may be a hundred and one other things to do in the Spring months! 
yet half an hour daily for a week or ten days devoted tc fighting the bug will 
be time well spent. 



RED SPIDER 



Red spider has perhaps caused trouble to most growers of fruit under 
glass. This diminutive but powerful insect must be checked at its first appear- 
ance or it will soon do serious damage. While it is almost invisible to the naked 
eye, its destructive work becomes readily apparent when watched through a 
magnifying glass. It works more on the under side of the foliage than on the 
upper side. Its ravages can presently be detected with the naked eye, for the 
foliage where it is at work assumes a brownish cast. If not checked it will suck 
the life out of the leaves within a short time and, if let alone, might make a 
clean sweep not only of the leaves but also of the fruit. Its appearance depends 
on climatic conditions; some seasons it may bother the grower very little, while 
at other times it may cause serious trouble. A great deal depends on the way 
in which the temperature is regulated. Careless airing will bring it on just as 
quickly as too dry an atmosphere, or as dryness at the root. Watch these 
points and check the spider on its first appearance. If the vines cannot be 
sprayed— and this is not advisable after the berries are half grown— dust the 
foliage over lightly with powdered sulphur. On examining this insect through 
a magnifying glass we see that its body has a hairlike texture; on this the sul- 
phur settles much to its discomfort. This method of treatment is simple but 
effective. 



76 FKUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

TIIRIPS 

Tlirips is not tounci in tlie graper\- as often as is red spider, l)ut it is ver\' 
destructive when it does appear and diflicult to eradicate. It is a long, slender 
insect wliicii adheres cioseij' to the foliage, and even spraying will hardly dis- 
lodge it. It should be cleared out at once. It feeds on the foliage in a way 
similar to red spider and a dry, hot atmosphere will cause it to spread apace. 
A mixture of sulpluir and finely powdered tol^acco, dusted o\cr the foliage, is 
effective. 

THE VINE WEEVIL 

Another msect which is at times very troublesome in the early grapery is 
the vine weevil (Curculio vitis). In the larval state it lives in the border, and 
appears toward the Spring after the foliage has come out on the vine. It is a 
small, dark insect, very much like the rose weevil. If left alone it will do consid- 
erable damage, eating holes through the foliage, thereby weakening its action 
and disfiguring it, for perfect foliage only is beautiful. The only remedy is to go 
o\cr the foliage carefully, picking the weevils out by hand. If they are \"ery 
plentiful, spread a piece of muslin on the border and then gi\e the vine a sudden 
jar and they will drop down; as they are \ery nearly of the same color as the 
soil it would be impossible to pick them up if they were allowed to drop down 
without the cloth spread underneath the \'ine. In this way one can soon get rid 
of them They do not seem to bother the late houses. I have at times seen a 
few in a midseason house, but not enough to cause trouble. 

MILDEW 

Mildew is one of the most serious of all the fungoid growths and, if allowed 
to spread, it will ruin a house of Grapes in a short time, for, when once it gets 
into the berries, it will cause the skins to harden, thereby checking their devel- 
opment. The berries are liable to split, and in this way a crop which otherwise 
might have been a good one will be a failure. In our northeastern climate mil- 
dew is a dreaded fungus; not so much in the early house where we have the 
artificial heat to combat it, but it is when the fire heat is cut off that the danger 
of its spread increases. It all depends on the conditions, but when once it gets 
a foothold among the foliage it is most difiicult of eradication, and if it is allowed 
to get the upper hand, both the foliage and the fruit will receive a serious check. 
Never close the house tight when there is no more fire heat to rely on — this is the 
best preventive. Leave a good crack of air on at night. Then, as the tempera- 
ture rises in the morning, gradually give more air. Keep the house near 80 
during the day, with 70° at night, and give no bottom air until the Grapes 
begin to color. Under these conditions, and with a fairly steady tempera- 
ture, there should be very little mildew. In closing your grapery toward even- 
ing, allow the temperature to run up the same as with fire heat. You may 
count yourself fortunate if you escape mildew. However, the vines must be 
graduallv inured to this treatment and it is ad\isable to accustom them to it 



INSECTS AND DISEASES 



77 




< 5 









O 
I' 






78 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

belore the (ires are dispensed with. But witli all seeming eare and good judg- 
ment nuldcw will at times appear. 

Location also plays an important part as the cause of this trouble. Grap- 
eries along the sea coast as well as those located on low lying ground are much 
more subject to mildew than are those situated farther inland. While Grapes 
clear of mildew can be produced near the sea coast they require much closer 
attention. The man who is interested in growing Grapes under glass will watch 
for the first appearance of any unwelcome visitor. If mildew is allowed to spread 
unchecked, even for two or three days, the damage will be great, but if preven- 
tive measures are taken at once, giving a light dusting of sulphur to the 
affected parts, it may check the spread. In a very severe case a little sulphur 
maj' be burned. Procure a small iron pot and an oil lamp large enough to 
heat this pot, then just burn a little sulphur in the bottom of it. This must 
be done very carefully. When the air in the house begins to get too un- 
pleasant to stay in it, remove the lamp or put it out; ha\e the house closed 
down and keep it so closed for about an hour. 

SCALDING OF THE BERRIES 

Scalding ol the berries is a serious trouble at certain stages, the most dan- 
gerous one being at about the period of their stoning. Sometimes only a berry 
or two may be affected, while at other times an entire bunch may be destroyed. 
Some varieties are more subject to scalding than others; Gros Maroc will scald 
in an early house, but not in a late one, and both Muscat of Alexandria and 
Lady Downs Seedling will scald easily. This is caused more or less when the 
temperature rises and the sun strikes the berries while there is moisture on them. 
For these reasons the atmosphere should be watched carefully at the stoning 
period of the fruit; particularly does this caution apply to those in the early 
house. This scalding of the berries generally takes place in the morning. While 
the thermometer may not read high the temperature between the foliage and 
the glass may be quite different; for this reason the house should be aired suf- 
ficiently to take the condensation off the berries before the hot sun strikes them. 

RUST 

Rust is at times more or less troublesome. While it does not at first seem 
to hurt the Grapes to a great extent, the berries affected swelling away and devel- 
oping the same as do those not affected, yet it is eventually the cause of serious 
disfigurement, as the marks can be plainly seen when they become ripe. Rust 
usually appears shortly after the thinning. It Is generally ascribed to careless- 
ness in that operation; that is, because the fingers have come in contact with 
the berries or, if the man engaged in the thinning is awkward at his work, allow- 
ing his hair to come in contact with the bunch. As the berries are then very 
tender, the skin is easily marred, but these marks will not show until they have 
expanded somewhat. An experienced man will guard against any part of his 
body or clothes coming in contact with the berries, but a noxice will be apt to 



INSECTS AND DISEASES 79 

twist around on the stepladder before getting into position and so may easily 
touch a bunch with his hair without knowing it. Therefore, it is advisable to 
guard against anything that may bring on rust. 

SHANKING 

This disease, or whatever one may choose to term it, bothers many growers. 
A crop may look in excellent condition up to the coloring period, and we may be 
elated over our good prospects when, ail of a sudden, the trouble will appear. 
It does not take long to detect; a few berries only may be affected, or again the 
whole point of the bunch may be lost, spoiling its shape. It begins with the dry- 
ing up of the individual fruit stem, then the berries develop no further, either 
in color or in flavor, consequently, all so affected are sour and useless, requiring 
that every berry with a dry fruit stalk must be cut out. This shanking has 
occurred at times with apparently perfectly healthy vines. It is due to different 
causes. Overcropping is a prevalent one; this occurs when more Grapes are left 
on the vines than the foliage is able to develop. In a broad sense, shanking is 
the result of some overstrain; either the root or the foliage is not performing 
its proper functions. This serious trouble may be attributed to different causes — 
destruction of foliage by insect pests, chills or sudden changes of temperature; 
also a border with imperfect drainage. 

Grapes should be handled very carefully when they begin to color, as a 
check at this stage may also cause shanking and, if not that mischief, then a 
deficiency of color. Both of these faults are a sore trouble to the cultivator. 
When Grapes begin to color, more air should be admitted, but not so much as 
to check the crop. Many a crop of Grapes has been carried along in full health 
and vigor up to this stage, and has then fallen away. Shanking is further due 
to various other causes: if the roots get into cold subsoil, poor root action will 
follow; excessive dryness at the roots when the vines are in full growth — all 
these defects promote shanking. If the fault lies with poor root action, sour 
border, etc., the surest and best remedy is to clear the vines out, make up a new- 
border and start up afresh. Vines which have fallen into an unhealthy condition 
may at times be brought around by renovating the border. But this would 
be only a halfway measure, and it is better to replant than to try to recuperate 
sickly, wornout plants. 



8o FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CHAPTER XIII 



KEEPING QUALITIES OF GRAPES—STORING, PACKING, 

EXHIBITION 

The Cool Storehouse — Packing Grapes for Forwarding Handling 

Grapes for Exhibition 

OWING to our extremes of temperature. Grapes with us cannot be lield 
on the \ines as long as in more moderate climates. In our climate 
there is, often a temperature of 90" and over in Summer, with good 
air. While this is congenial to Grapes before they are ripe it will not keep them 
long in good condition after that condition is reached. Much again dep-^nds on 
the keeping quality of the Grape. Perfectly finished fruit will keep in a plump, 
fresh condition longer than that imperfectly finished. Grapes which are inclined 
to be watery when ripe, possessing a very soft pulp, cannot be held long on the 
vines, while berries which are solid, firm, and full of sugar, instead of water, are 
in much better condition for hanging on the vines. 

Where a steady supply is desired from an earl\' house, do not plant 
it all to early kinds, such as Black Hamburg, Foster's Seedling, etc., but 
add Appley Towers, which would be ready for use when the earlier kinds 
were disposed of; include also some Gros Maroc and Muscat of Alexandria; 
these will follow the varieties above noted and will fill in betw^een the 
early and midseason house. If it were possible to keep the Grapes in a fairly 
steady temperature of about 50° when ripe, they could easily be held in excel- 
lent condition for a couple of months. When the fruit is ripe it is well to shade 
the house lightly either with a permanent shade or by spraying some whitening 
on the glass. This can be done in a few minutes, and if a period of rain comes 
on the first shower will wash it off and leave the glass clear, which is better on 
cloudy or wet days. I therefore prefer the whitening to a permanent shade. 
The foliage of Muscat of Alexandria seems to be iniured by the extreme heat 
of the sun in Summer, and it should be shaded somewhat from its hot rays 
though not so much as to exclude the light. Excellent Muscat can be grown in 
this way. This Grape seems to be more subject to sunburn in some localities 
than in others ant', wherever this trouble is likely to occur, the proper preventive 
measures should be taken or the vines will soon deteriorate; the foliage which 
is the life of the plant must be protected. 

In order to keep Grapes in good condition all through the Summer and 
sometimes into the Fall with no fire heat at all, it is necessary to keep a dry. 



KEEPING QUALITIES OF GRAPES— PACKING— EXHIBITION 8i 

bracing atmosphere, with a fair amount of moisture at the roots, especially 
when they are depending altogether on the inside border. The berries will 
begin to shrivel if the border gets too dry. Toward the latter part of the Sum- 
mer considerable moisture appears to rise during the night, even if the border 
is kept seemingly dry, and this will also cause some of the Muscat berries to 
decay. A hght layer of salt hay will overcome this difficulty; the hay lying 
close down over the border prevents the moisture from rising. This simple 
treatment will keep the berries perfectly dry. Ripe Grapes cannot be held long 
on the vines with moisture lodging in the bunches, especially the Muscats. 

That noble Black Muscat, Madresfield Court, is subject to one serious 
trouble, namely, the spHtting of the berries just as they begin to color. I have 
overcome this difficulty by placing a coat of salt hay on the border directly 
under those canes, and I time the watering of the border so that it will not be 
necessary to give any at the roots while this Grape is coloring, for the watering 
in itself will cause the berries to spht. Madresfield Court is one of the finest 
of all the Black Muscats when well done, but, unfortunately, its keeping quality 
is poor, and it cannot be relied on to hang on the vines for any length of time. 

The late grapery is the one we have to depend upon for keeping, but even 
with this in view the fruit should all be colored up by the middle of October. 
Gros Colman is one of the standbys for late use; it will keep in a plump, fresh 
condition on the vines up to the first of January, and it will improve in quality 
by hanging. Lady Hutt also has proved admirably adapted for late use, being 
almost equal to Gros Colman in this respect. When grown in a late house it 
is not at its best for table use until about the first of December, and it improves 
considerably in flavor if it hangs for some time after becoming apparently ripe. 
The longer we can preserve the foliage the better the Grapes will keep; so, while 
it is not necessary to apply nearlj' so much moisture to the roots, yet they must 
not suffer from the want of it, for so long as there is foliage on the vine root 
action is not dormant. 

The ability to hold Grapes only until January first may seem a short period. 
While in moderate climates^hey may be held in fairly good condition until the 
middle of February, our hot sun will often during November and at times in 
December run the temperature up more than is good for them, even though they 
be shaded somewhat, and it is these extremes of temperature which prevent 
holding them over longer than I have specified. If the Grapes, after being thor- 
oughly ripened, could be kept at a steady temperature of 45°, both day and 
night, with a bracing atmosphere and enough heat in the pipes to dispose of any 
dampness during the night, then we should have the ideal conditions for hold- 
ing the Grapes much longer than is now the case. But as conditions are such 
that we cannot maintain steady fire heat, even in the Fall at all times, enough 
salt hay should be placed on the border to keep down any moisture that may 
rise from the soil; this will prevent the damping of the berries. 

THE COOL STOREHOUSE 

Grapes may be kept for a long time in a room especially prepared for this 
purpose, but there must be all the necessary equipments, for the fruit is very 



82 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

exacting in its rcquirenicnts, particularly so as to temperature and dry atmos- 
phere. This room must luuc a temperature of 40° to 45"^, and the heating 
arrangements must be such that it can be turned on when necessary. The 
room must be perfectly dr\'. It should be so situated that the sun's ra\s will 
not penetrate it, so causing a lluctuation in the atmosphere, and the doors should 
be so arranged that no outside air can strike into the room when they are opened. 
A dry, close, dark room, built whh hollow walls and a double set of doors, makes 
an ideal storehouse. 

The method which is termed "bottling" is here described. Obtain as many 
one-quart bottles as there are bunches to cut, having necks large enough and 
long enough that the wood can be put in easily. Fill the bottles nearly full 
with clear, fresh water. Then cut the Grapes with enough wood to each bunch, 
so that the former will reach the bottom of the bottle and still project out of 
the neck about fn-e or six inches. It is always best to place in the water the end 
that was cut nearest to the rod, but sometimes this is too short, especially when 
the bunch is near the permanent \\nc. In eases where the end between the 
bunch and the rod is too short, of course the other end of the wood must be set 
into the water. It does not seem to affect the keeping qualities of the Grape 
which end of the wood is set into the water, providing there is a clean cut at 
the end of the wood that is placed in the water. The only difference I have 
found is that the bunch as a rule will set better if the end nearest to the rod can 
be secured long enough so that it can be placed in the water. 

A simple and inexpensive way is to arrange the bottles on shelves or racks, 
one above the other and far enough apart so that the bunches will not touch 
each other. Nail a board along the front of each rack with notches six inches 
apart, in which the necks of the bottles are laid. These should be placed at 
such an angle that the bunch of Grapes will hang clear of the bottle, while the 
latter itself remains nearly full of water. If the room is dry, and a steady tem- 
perature is maintained. Grapes can be kept in good looking condition in this 
way until far into the Spring. 

While any one can prolong his Grape season by this method with the proper 
care, yet I do not recommend it. The Grapes lose their vitality. While they 
may still be good to look upon, after four or six weeks in the fruit room they will 
have lost their exquisite flavor and most certainly also their value as food for 
the invalid. Grapes must contain saccharine to be good; when they have 
degenerated into merely a bleb of water they maj' still have the name but cer- 
tainly not the substance. Years ago I helped to place many a bunch 
in the storeroom, and have seen them come out as late as the month of 
April. At that time Lady Downs was one of the standards for late use, 
and most of the thick skinned varieties would submit to the bottle treat- 
ment. But of late years I have come to the conclusion that it is best 
to hold the Grapes on the vines as long as they can be kept plump. Then 
close the Grape season until the new crop conies along. There is no diffi- 
culty in having Grapes eight months out of the twelve, and with an interval 
of but four months between seasons they will be all the more appreciated 
when they come around again. 



KEEPING QUALITIES OF GRAPES— PACKING— EXHIBITION 83 

PACKING GRAPES FOR FORWARDING 

There is another very important point in Grape growing, especially for 
private use; this is the packing, for generally speaking large quantities are sent 
away. The best methods of packing should therefore be carefully studied so 
that the fruit may arrive at its destination in good shape. No matter how fine 
the bunches are when cut off the vine, carelessness in packing will ruin them. 
Fruit should be so packed that it will not move when the box is turned upside 
down or roughly handled in transit. 

Boxes holding ten to twelve pounds of Grapes are better adapted for carrying 
them in good condition than are larger ones. The best shape of box is one 
broad enough to hold the fruit in one layer, with some soft material for the 
bunches to rest upon. For some years we have been using a sea grass for that 
purpose, and have found it very satisfactory, being clean, Hght and elastic. 
Wrap each bunch separately in soft tissue paper and lay them snugly in the 
box with the stems upward; they will fit in better this way and will also be more 
convenient to hft out. Line the box with soft paper; this is to be folded over 
the fruit. Then fill in any crevices with sea grass or other soft material, to 
prevent the bunches from moving. Grapes packed in this way should be re- 
ceived at their destination in good condition. 

Baskets may also be used and may be packed in the same way. A basket 
holding ten to twelve pounds is better than one of greater bulk. When the 
lid is down, the fruit should be snug enough so that it cannot move. Tie the 
handles of the basket together in an upright position; this will prevent those 
in charge of its transportation from placing any other weight on the basket. 
I have sent away considerable fruit thus packed which arrived at its destination 
in a satisfactory condition. There is nothing more discouraging than a report 
of good fruit having arrived in poor condition, and this is quite as often due to 
bad packing as to unnecessarily rough handhng in transit. But if fruit is firmly 
packed in soft and elastic material it should safely stand a reasonable amount 
of handling. 

HANDLING GRAPES FOR EXHIBITION 

Grapes for exhibition purposes call for the true test of skill in packing. A 
bunch of Grapes destined to grace an exhibition board must be without a blem- 
ish. The bloom, or finish, which is the pride of the fruit man, can never be 
replaced if once rubbed off. An outsider may touch a bunch and leave his 
finger marks on it without reahzing the disfigurement he is causing; therefore 
the careful exhibitor will not trust his fruit into the hands of any one else if 
he can possibly avoid it, but will keep close watch over it until the judges have 
passed upon it. 

Hothouse Grapes are exhibited on stands made especially for that purpose; 
these are usually covered with clean, white paper. The stand is in a slightly 
slanting position so that the Grapes will show up to the best advantage. The 
size of the stand should correspond to the weight of the bunches. The Grapes 



84 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

for exhibition slioulcl be cut with two or three inches of the wood attached to 
tlie buncli, gi\ing a good hold for tying on the string. If the bunches are 
large, a strong piece of string is needed to secure tiiem on the boards. It is a 
good plan to place the Grapes on the stands as soon as cut, and if they have 
to travel far, a ijox should be made large enough to contain the stands with the 
Grapes fixed thereon. Make the box wide enough so that the stands will fit 
one on each side, with the Grapes facing each other. Secure the back of the 
stand to the box with a screw to keep it from shifting. The box must be kept 
as nearly on a level as possible. It may be a little more troublesome to trans- 
port the Grapes in tiiis way, but they are liable to be more or less marked if 
carried in baskets. And e\en when they are shipped on the stands the exhibi- 
tor should tra\el with them, lest any harm befall them, since it is his pride to 
show them perfect in all respects. 



„^** ****i 




GRAPE VINES CULTIVATED IN POTS 85 



CHAPTER XIV 



GRAPE VINES CULTIVATED IN POTS 

GRAPE vines have been cultivated in pots for many years. Toward 
the end of the 17th century Speechley of Welbeck Abbey, England, 
practiced this method of cultivation. But it seems that very little 
advance was made from his day until about the middle of the last century. 
From that time on, however, the cultivation of the vine in pots has increased 
rapidly. This method requires great skill and close attention in order to pro- 
duce high-class fruit. Furthermore, not all Grapes will adapt themselves to 
this treatment. A shy setting variety will be a failure. Black Hamburg is 
probably one of the best as a pot vine, and any other of the free setting kind 
will respond to this method. Muscat of Alexandria is a complete failure for 
pot culture. 

There are many things to be said in favor of the pot vine. In the first 
place, we can secure ripe fruit earlier by two or three weeks than from vines 
planted in the border, as having the roots under our control we can ripen the 
wood up earlier in the Fall and they can therefore be again early started into 
growth. Besides, the roots are in a position to get practically the same 
temperature as the top. Therefore, if very early Grapes be our object, the pot 
sj'stem will find its place. And, again, if a fruit range is being set up for 
private use, the owner generally wants to secure results at once, and the two 
or three years required for a border seems a long time to wait. 

While a couple of bunches may be allowed to remain on each cane during 
the second year, if all has gone well, still the pot vine will be of great assistance 
during the first two years. Without these one is apt to overcrop the young 
permanent vines, which is a serious mistake, and the consequences are diffi- 
cult to overcome. I wish to impress upon the beginner in Grape culture the 
folly of overcropping young vines in a grapery which is intended to last for a 
number of years. 

Grape vines for fruiting in pots are raised from eyes, the same as those 
intended for the border. Plants for fruiting purposes must be good, strong 
canes. Generally, only a few vines are needed for private use, and it is far 
better to purchase them direct from the specialist in that line than to attempt 
to grow them one's self in a house with other plants where the temperature 
and moisture would not agree with them. I have also seen attempts made to 
grow young canes in the permanent grapery and, while the atmospheric condi- 
tions here would be all that could be desired, there is the one serious drawback 



86 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

of lack of suflicicnt sunlight. This makes it impossible to produce satisfactory 
canes. If the grower has a small house at command, with plenty of heat, sun- 
light, moisture, etc., and can devote it wholly to the young vines, then there 
is no reason why he should not be able to grow first class canes. 

Grape vines may be grown from eyes struck in January, if given extra 
good treatment during the Spring and Summer months, so that the cane will 
be strong enough for fruiting the following season. Be sure to get the wood 
thoroughly ripe, and here a good, light house with plenty of sun will show results. 
I do not greatly believe in the drying system; neither should the pots be allowed 
to get dust dry at any time. While at rest, with no foliage to draw on the mois- 
ture, thej' require very little water at the root; but when the plant has only the 
pot to depend on for moisture at the root this drying process may be overdone. 
I have often noticed that when the soil in the pot was kept just on the moist 
side the roots looked much " happier " than when extra dry. The Grape vine 
fruits freely in the open air, while not going through the drying process; this 
should be a lesson to us. 

While vines of sufficient strength may be grown in one season to bear fruit 
the following year, yet, if there is any doubt as to their strength, it is far better 
to cut them back again to three or four eyes, and then grow on the second year. 
If properly cared for, the vines will make extra strong material for fruiting. 
This is what we call two-year-old, cut-back. 

Pot vines, when well grown, make a handsome showing, but, if neglected 
in any way, they are a miserable failure. A fairly rich compost should be given 
from five-inch pots up; a compost of sod land, plentifully supplied with 
fibrous roots through the sod, is good for pot work. The soil need not be too 
heavy, for the growing vines require a liberal supply of water. Add to this sod 
one third part of well decayed farmyard manure, with a sprinkling of bone and 
three or four pounds of Thomson's vine manure to an average wheelbarrow 
load of soil. This will make a fairly good compost for the vines. If it is too 
heavy, add some charcoal and sand, lime rubble, or anything that will keep 
the soil open and porous. If this compost is of such a nature that it can be 
used in a fairly rough state, the vines will root very rapidly through it and make 
a quick luxuriant growth. They must be repotted before they get in any way 
pot-bound, or they will get a severe check. As the vine is a liberal feeder, plenty 
of space must be provided for the roots. The correct shift, as a rule, is from 
three-inch into five-inch, from five-inch into seven-inch and from seven-inch 
into nine-inch, and, if started very early, they may receive another shift into 
eleven-inch or twelve-inch pots. In this latter case the canes should be strong 
enough to produce a crop of Grapes the following season. But if the eyes are 
started later, potting up to a nine-inch pot is all that is necessary, although 
this kind of stock would have to be held over. Cut back during the Winter to 
within a few inches of the pot, then grow on again another season. Under 
this treatment the vines, soon after they have been introduced to heat and 
before they break into growth, may be taken out of the pots, the old soil reduced, 
and repotted in pots of about the same size, or smaller, if necessary. Then, as 
the roots get active again, repot up to twelve-inch pots. The main object in 




Representing Method of Pot Culture 

The advantage of producing Grapes in pots is that ripe Grapes may be obtained in April, whereas, 
when planted in the border. May is as early as one can hope to have ripe fruit for use 



88 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

doing this is to get perfect drainage, a porous soil and, above ail, lirni potting, 
all these being important factors in the welfare of pot vines. Have the potting 
soil of the same temperature as the soil in which they are growing. While 
this operation may seem troublesome, still it is best for the plant. After the 
vines have received their last shift, which will be some time in June, when the 
roots have worked through fairly well, surface dressing can be applied either 
in the way of top dressing or liquid manure, or both, for a good, rich soil and 
systematic feeding are required if the Grape vine is to reach the highest type 
of perfection. And an inferior Grape is not worth striving for in pot culture. 

Watering plays a very important part in the success or failure of Grape 
culture; but this should not be done in a haphazard way. When in full growth 
and vigor the vines require a liberal supply of water at their roots at all times. 
The young roots being soft and full of sap, any drying process during their growth 
is apt to cause a serious check. 

As regards feeding, the fruiting canes will naturally take more food to 
good advantage than the young canes, as will be explained later. The young 
vines may be sprayed two or three times a day when the weather is favorable. 
They like a moist, humid atmosphere during their growing season. 

Vine eyes should be rooted and started along with bottom heat of about 
75 , with atmospheric temperature of about 70°, or 75° with sun heat. As 
the season advances, the temperature can be increased. With out hot sun, 
bottom heat can be dispensed with in the late Spring. The young vines will 
make rapid headway without its assistance, in a temperature of 70° by night 
and 80 by day. Keep the house chaiged with moisture until the canes com- 
mence to ripen up, and then gradually admit more aii, with less moisture to the 
roots and atmosphere. 

Different methods are used for training the vine for fruiting. Probably 
the one most in vogue is to coil the cane around stakes, four or five feet high, 
driven into the soil, three or four around the side of the pot; or the cane may be 
trained to one center stake to a height of 3 or 4 ft. with a trellis on top similar 
to that used for training a standard Chrysanthemum. Such training makes 
a neat appearance, and the bunches are formed where they can receive more 
light and air than if trained in a coil. In preparing the young canes for fruiting, 
they may be grown in a light house, with one stake to each vine, setting them far 
enough apart to allow the sun and air to get around them. Do not crowd them 
in any way, but secure the young vines to the stake as they grow. A still better 
location is a small span roof house. Here train the young vines up a trellis, 
i5 or 18 inches from the glass on each side, in such a position that the buds will 
ripen to perfection. The lead should not be stopped until grown to the desired 
length, which will be from eight to ten feet, according to the strength of the 
cane. As the laterals make their appearance, they may be stopped, as recom- 
mended for permanent vines. The wood must be thoroughljr ripened, for even 
if the canes are strong, they will be of no use if they are soft and pith\-. I would 
rather have small canes than strong ones which have not gone through the 
ripening process. Properly ripened canes should present no difTicuIty if they 
have been grown through the Summer months in the full sun. When they are 



GRAPE VINES CULTIVATED IN POTS 89 

full grown, gradually give more air and less moisture until toward Fail, at 
which time air should be admitted freely both night and day, and they 
should receive considerably less water at the roots, although the latter should 
not suffer from lack of it. The temperature of the house will count as much as 
anything. Maintain a dry, bracing atmosphere when ripening the wood. 

Fruiting canes which it has taken two years to produce must be started into 
growth with a fairly low temperature, hke that recommended for permanent 
vines. If they are started at too high a temperature, they are apt to come 
away weak. Give them time and they will more than repay for it later. Attend 
to the repotting when needed, but do not pot too late in the season, for it is much 
better to have them well rooted when they are finishing up their growth. They 
will not need repotting when started again for fruiting. Keep room for top 
dressing. During their resting period they can be pruned and the canes shortened 
when necessary. If the canes are strong and thoroughly ripened wood, eight 
feet will be none too much, but if they are weak, six feet is better. 

The pot vine finds its place in fruiting and ripening, especially for early 
work. If Grapes are desired in April, those in the permanent house would have 
to be forced more than is good for them, and even then it is a question if ripe 
fruit can be obtained by the first of May, whereas with pot vines there is no 
difficulty in having ripe Grapes by the middle of April. Sometimes a couple 
of weeks will count a great deal, where money is no object, providing that the 
results are forthcoming. 

The varieties best adapted for pot work are Black Hamburg, Foster's 
Seedling, Royal Muscadine, and Black Alicante. The last named, while having 
all the free setting qualities and being a strong, robust grower, takes a much 
longer season to ripen its fruit, and then it is of poor quality; so it may be omitted 
if early fruit is the object. I have seen fairly good Madresfield Court Grapes 
grown under this treatment. 

Pot Grape vines for fruiting may be started toward the end of November, 
provided they have been prepared for this early start by having the vines ripened 
up some time in advance, as all fruit must have a period of rest between crops. 
In order to obtain the best results, bring them along gradually, at first in a 
temperature of 45° to 50° by night with an increase of 10° or 15° during the 
day, according to the weather. Then gradually raise the temperature as the 
buds begin to swell, or use the treatment recommended for permanent vines, 
as to temperature, atmosphere and airing. 

When the pot vines are first brought into heat, they should receive one 
good watering, and no more until it is absolutely necessary, for as there is no 
foliage to draw the moisture, watering at the roots must be done with judg- 
ment in the beginning. Keep them on the dry side until they have started 
into growth; as the foliage gets more plentiful, increase the moisture, and from 
that period until fully ripe they should not suffer for lack of water. If a vine 
Hags for want of moisture at the roots, give it a good soaking; the foliage will 
revive and look bright and happy again, within a few hours. But if this should 
occur often, the crop would be a disappointing one as to finish, and some of 
the stems would probably shrivel up or shank. This would take all the pleasure 



90 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



and glory out of the work. However, if a pot vine is properly handled, in a 
twelve-incii pot, it should yield eight to ten pounds of Grapes, especially with 
systematic feeding with both top dressing and liquid manure. For the top 
dressing Thomson's vine manure is ideal. Use eight or ten parts of soil to one 
part of Thomson's manure, and apply about a good handful to a pot whenever 
it seems necessary. The most successful time to feed is after the Grapes are 
thinned, and again as they commence to swell away after stoning. Of course 
they will need light feeding between these periods, but do not feed them while 
they are coloring. 

It is not often necessary to repot; in fact, they will do better if they can be 
carried through successfully with the aid of feeding and top dressing only. But 
sometimes there may be a pot which does not look happy, through some unfore- 
seen cause, and it then may be necessary to repot it. The best time to do this 
is just as the fruit is set, for at this stage the vines appear to make roots rapidly, 
and this gives them a better chance to recuperate quickly. 




PEACHES AND NECTARINES 91 



CHAPTER XV 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES 

Budding — Houses Best Adapted for Growing Purposes — Borders 

AND their Construction — Planting — Cultural Directions — 

Disbudding and Tying the Young Growths 

THE early history of the Peach is obscure. Some authorities suppose it 
to be of Persian origin, but it is not definitely known where it had its 
first home. The Peach and the Nectarine may be classed together, 
as the latter is a variety of the former. The fohage and the blossom are the 
same in both, while the fruit is quite distinct, in appearance as well as in flavor. 

Fine Peaches can be grown throughout this country without any glass 
protection whatever. But this is not the case with the Nectarine. Our so- 
called California Nectarines are Nectarines only in name. Plant a Nectarine 
tree under glass and give it the proper care and you will get fruit of handsome 
appearance and rich, luscious flavor. Prof. Bailey speaks in his Encyclopedia 
of the Nectarine as being inferior to the Peach in quality. But this is probably 
because less attention has been given to the improvement of the varieties. A 
wonderful improvement has, however, been made within the last twenty or 
thirty years, both in its size and flavor and in the length of its season. Some 
years ago Lord Napier was considered our earliest variety. Then came Early 
Rivers, ripening some time ahead of Napier. Their competitor. Cardinal, was 
eight or ten days in advance of Early Rivers, and for late fruit, Victoria, that 
grandest of all the late Nectarines, which is a monument to its originator. There 
are others, which I will mention later. 

We have now a wonderful assortment of both Peaches and Nectarines to 
select from for forcing purposes. They are next in popularity to the Grape, 
and justly so. The demand among the wealthy for hothouse Peaches and 
Nectarines has increased to such an extent within the last few years that this 
branch of our profession will be a growing one for a long period to come. 

The Nectarine is more popular as a forced fruit than the Peach, its dis- 
tinct flavor being the more desired. But the fruit must be finished up to per- 
fection in order to acquire this rich flavor, and it must be gathered at the proper 
stage. As regards hothouse Peaches, one must be in close touch with the fruit 
to appreciate its richness of finish and flavor. One fact that appeals strongly 
to the owner of a peach-house is that there is no off year, but a steady crop 
year after year, unless there has been poor judgment in overcropping, or mis- 



92 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

management somewhere else. The owner of a peach-house has a perfect right 
to expect a fair crop every year. We have no unfavorable weather conditions 
to contend with, and no Spring frosts to fight. We have the means at com- 
mand for creating the ideal Peach temperatuic. '"I'et more Peaches have prob- 
ably been damaged by too much heat than by anything else, particularly in 
early forcing. On the Peach tree, when brought along with Nature's tempera- 
tures, the blooms will start swelling in a comparatively low temperature. This 
shows that we would be going against Nature by rushing in much heat when first 
starting up a house. Although we may have artificial heat at command, it 
needs judgment to start up a fruithouse in December. Follow the guidance 
of Nature as much as possible. When the buds commence to move, gradually 
increase the heat. Too much heat will cause the fruit buds to drop, or if they 
do not drop, the blossoms will be weak and lack substance very undesirable. 
Under these conditions the flowers are apt to fall off" before the fruit has set. 

In our climate we can produce wonderful results with the Peach and Nec- 
tarine under glass. The trees will make rapid growth. In three or four years 
they will grow into large trees capable of carrying a crop of 200 fruit to the 
tree, or more. The wood should be thoroughly ripened up in the Fall, as the 
amount of sunshine is much greater here than in less favored climates, with 
the result that the trees will withstand 20° or 25° of frost in the house, with 
no injury whatever to the buds. I think that the trees are considerably im- 
proved by a certain amount of freezing. Some good fruit growers will not 
allow much frost in the house, but if the trees are well ripened, frost is beneficial 
rather than harmful. 

The general method of propagation is to plant the stone of the Peach or 
Nectarine, with a view to obtaining new and improved varieties. This is not 
done haphazard, but promising varieties are selected and certain flowers are 
fertilized with the pollen from another kind. A record of this operation is kept. 
Wonderful results have been obtained by crossing the Peach with the Nec- 
tarine. One of the most prominent and handsome midseason Peaches which 
we have for forcing purposes is Peregrine, a seedling from the Spencer Nec- 
tarine. No collection is complete without the Peregrine Peach. It is com- 
paratively new, but all who have tried it speak highly of it for indoor work, 
because of its flavor and handsome appearance. 

BUDDING 

Most of our Peaches are probably budded on the Peach stock, although 
this stock is very undesirable for forcing, as the trees have a tendency to rank 
growth. All Peaches for growing under glass should be budded on Plum stock. 
At times the wood of the Peach will grow away more rapidly than that of the 
Plum and, if left to itself, it would get what we term hide-bound. But a straight 
cut through the bark of the Plum will often remedy this evil, especially if done 
in time. Another point in favor of the Plum stock is that the Peach borer, 
which is troublesome under glass 'as well as in the open, will make less headway 
on this stock than on the Peach, for the latter is somewhat softer and more 
easily bored into. 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES 



93 




04 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

Both the Peach and the Nectarine are admirably adapted for forcing pur- 
poses; but while excellent Peaches can be also grown on the farm and in the 
garden in many, parts of this country, outdoor culture is not as congenial to 
the Nectarine as the hothouse. I therefore rank the Nectarine ahead of the 
Peach for forcing, for two reasons. In the first place, one can see car loads of 
Peaches in the market, in their season, but not of Nectarines. The connoisseur, 
moreover, will prefer at any time a hothouse Nectarine to a Peach. In the 
second place, produce something under glass that is not so plentiful in 
the market and it will be more highly appreciated, provided the quality 
is excellent. I would therefore assign the prominent place in the fruithouse 
to the Nectarine. 

Do not imagine that because they are not seen much in the market. Nec- 
tarines have not kept pace with Peaches as regards improvement in varieties. 
The Nectarine has been improved to a wonderful extent in size and flavor, and 
length of seasons One must know these hothouse products well in order to 
appreciate them at their full value. 

I have often been asked how early I can produce ripe Peaches and Nec- 
tarines and how long the season will last. It is well for the grower to be able 
to answer such questions definitely and intelligently. So I may say here, that 
ripe Peaches and Nectarines can be had from the first week in May onward and, 
with space at command, a continuous supply may be secured from that date to 
the first week in October. There are persons who expect to get ripe Peaches 
for Christmas, but as we are dealing with a deciduous tree, which must have 
its period of rest, it is not advisable to attempt to bring in the crop before the 
date stated. Three houses are necessary in order to produce a steady supply 
for five months, and even then good judgment is required, with a thorough 
knowledge of the different varieties This is a point that should be well consid- 
ered when growing fruit for private purposes, as a steady supply is much 
more appreciated than a large crop ripening only within a limited period. Fur- 
ther on I shall give a list of varieties, with their seasons of ripening, which vary 
considerably. 

HOUSE OR HOUSES BEST ADAPTED FOR GROWING 

I have seen Peaches grown in various kinds of houses — leanto, three-quarter 
span, and the span or even span, the trees seemingly doing well under any one 
of these constructions. There is one important point to be noted in planning a 
house for trees of this kind. When they are once planted in the border, they 
make rapid growth, therefore allow them room enough to spread. A Peach tree 
planted in a cramped position cannot be expected to develop, or to give the 
same results, as one that has plenty of space. A tree should be planted so that 
it can develop freely on both sides. An evenly balanced tree will thrive better 
than one which has not the same space for arranging all its branches; such 
a tree also means even circulation of the sap. 

The house must also have full sunlight, for no matter how well it may be 
constructed otherwise, it will fall short of its purpose if it is in the least shaded 
by trees, and the grower cannot then produce the best results. The kind of 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES 



95 



house best adapted for this work is a span roof. Let it run north and south, 
for the trees will get more even sunlight from this direction than if it runs east 
and west. All fruithouses should be supphed with both top and bottom ven- 
tilation; this is of decided advantage when ripening the fruit, particularly Peaches 
and Nectarines. 

I have grown this fruit by different methods of training in former years. 
The trees were then largely planted along the sides and trained to treUis, in 
the same way as recommended for Grapes. Good fruit can be produced with 
this method. But here, with our extremely hot sun, there is considerable diffi- 
culty in keeping down red spider, as the grower can only spray the foliage on 
the under side. The heat between the fohage and the glass is at times very 
great, and that space is really a breeding place for red spider. For the last few 
years I have been planting and training my trees crosswise of the house. This 
method makes a lighter house, as the glass is free from fohage. Moreover, 
considerably more square feet of space will be obtained under the crosswise 
system. In order to get the full benefit of such a house, the walks should run 




'DRAIN 

Section of Peachhouse 

This section gives a clear idea as to construction of trellis, arrangement of border and concrete 

bottom. From the concrete base to the straight line should be filled in 

with drainage — either broken stone or brickbats 



96 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

along the sides, instead of down the center. Have the house 25 feet wide and 
as long as is necessary. This will allow one tree for each trellis and a spread 
of I" or 18 feet for the de\elopment of the tree, which is none too much. As 
regards the space between each trellis, six feet apart would be all right. 
Being trained crosswise, the trees are eas\- to handle, and there will be no excuse 
for red spider, as they can be sprayed on both sides. And above all, this arrange- 
ment will gi\e the house a more handsome appearance than if the trees are 
trained up the roof If it is not convenient to have a span roof house — which 
is the best for the purpose — excellent Peaches may be grown in a leanto or a 
three-quarter span, provided such a house be situated in a proper location. 
Such a house should face south, or approximately so, in order to get the benefit 
of all the sunlight. Greenhouse builders have now so thoroughly mastered 
this subject that they are figuring out every detail to the best advantage, in 
regard to location, sunlight heat, etc., and the private grower can safely rely 
on their judgment. 

BORDERS AND THEIR CONSTRUCTION 

Peaches may thrive and bear heavy crops in different soils — either a sandy 
soil or medium loam; but they do not look happy when planted in heavy clay 
soil, for they have then to struggle for existence, and the growth is slow. We 
find the same condition with Peaches growing in the open. I do not know 
any fruit more sensitive to poor drainage than the Peach and Nectarine. Al- 
though they require an abundance of water at the roots in their growing season, 
especially when in full growth, the drainage must be in condition to carry off 
all the surplus water. 

As to the border, excellent trees may be grown in seemingly very small, 
shallow borders, or equally well with considerably more soil. I remember 
seeing, many years ago, some fine Peach trees growing at the back wall of a 
leanto house in a border about three feet wide and two and one half feet deep; 
they were remarkably healthy and carried fine crops every year. Trees in such 
a confined border need close attention as to watering and feeding when de- 
veloping their crops. This shows that Peaches may be produced in a com- 
paratively small border if the circumstances demand it. It is not so much a 
question as to the size of the border, for a tree may be grown in a tub 16 inches 
square, and yield 50 to 75 well developed fruits, with systematic feeding and 
close attention to all details. 

One of the secrets of success lies in the construction of the border, or perfect 
drainage. Without free drainage the soil will get sour within a year, and 
decayed roots and unhealthy trees result. Under these conditions we miss 
that rich flavor so desirable in perfect fruit. With good drainage it does not 
matter whether the border is wide or narrow, for the soil will then keep in a 
sweet, healthy condition for years. There is no need of going to the expense 
of artificial drainage if the natural drainage is perfect. Natural drainage is, 
in fact, the best; if there is the least doubt about it, however, do not take any 
chances, but put in drains. Follow the same plan as described for the Grape 
border. Of course, it means an initial expense to put in perfect drainage, but 



at 

PEACHES AND NECTARINES 97 

It will save the grower much worry in the years to come, and in the case of a 
private estabhshment, where the object is to produce perfect fruit without 
regard to expense, the owner will certainly get greater satisfaction out of a 
well built border. 

Growing Peaches and Nectarines under glass is not a very expensive luxury. 
In the first place, they do not require an extremely high temperature, especially 
with fire heat; the coal bill is therefore not a serious item. Fruit in the late 
house can be produced with little or no fire heat and then it becomes only a 
question of labor, which is nothing when compared with the returns and the 
pleasure derived from the fruit, if it is a success. 

In making up a border it should be borne in mind that young trees have 
a tendency to rank growth for the first year or so; therefore, the border should 
not be made too rich. Use fertilizers that will not be available for sometime, 
such as coarse or one-half inch bone; the trees will derive benefit from this for 
years. Potash, also, is necessary for the Peach, though this may be applied 
as a surface dressing when the trees need it. If a border is made up of sod 
loam, the trees will make excellent growth for a year or so with little or no fer- 
tilizer. At this time it is not necessary to use farmyard manure, but it may 
be applied as a top dressing when the trees have passed their stage of rankness. 
Peach borders should be made on the same principle as that advised for 
Grapes, but the soil may be somewhat lighter. Let it consist of good, turfy loam, 
being substantial but not of a clayey, heavy nature. Peaches will thrive for some 
years in a comparatively shallow border, but with perfect drainage two to two 
and one-half feet of soil will be more lasting. With too shallow a border the 
trees are in danger of drying out too often. The trees may be confined wholly 
to the inside border. Bone constitutes one of the best ingredients for all fruit 
borders; that known as one-half inch bone is to be preferred. Use, say, 
at the rate of one part of bone to fifty of soil, which is a good proportion. 
But soils vary greatly in quality. If the soil is poor, more bone and other fer- 
tilizers can be used to good advantage. It is difficult to give the right proportion 
for the best welfare of the trees, as it all depends on the constitution of the ' 
different soils. Hardwood ashes form a valuable ingredient when mixed in 
about the same proportion as the bone. Good Peaches cannot be produced 
without the aid of potash in some form. With a poor grade of soil some high 
grade fertilizer applied near the surface will be of benefit, but I prefer a good 
loam with less manure. Excellent results can be obtained with Thomson's 
manure. It is high priced, but a few bags for top dressing will go a long way 
and it is doubly valuable for being a complete fertilizer. 

While the border is the foundation of success in fruit culture under glass, 
feeding in the years that follow also requires careful thought and good judgment,' 
as^ I shall explain later. An important point to be mentioned here is that the 
soil should not be brought in or handled after heavy rains; let it first dry out 
fairly well. The modern farmer will not handle or plow his land when over- 
charged with moisture. Similarly, sod for the border should be in a free, work- 
able condition— neither too wet nor yet dust dry. It should be in such a form 
that the border can be thoroughly firmed down without injury to the soil. 



98 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 




Peach Pf.regrine 

The Peregrine is a distinct mid-season variety and one of tlie finest forcing Peaches 
for color, richness of flavor and free cropping 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES 99 

PLANTING 

Peach trees may be planted either in the early Spring or in the Fall, though 
I decidedly prefer the early Fall, or soon after they have cast their fohage. If 
planted in the early Fall, the young trees will probably make a few new roots, 
which will be of great benefit to them when they start up in the Spring. For 
a test you may, in starting your house, plant one half in the early Fall and the 
other half in Spring. The results will surely lead you to do your further plant- 
ings in the Fall. However, if the house is not in shape for planting until De- 
cember, wait until the turn of the year, for there is no advantage in planting 
at that late date, as root action would be perfectly dormant then. 

Get the very best grade of stock obtainable. In our climate, with its 
plentiful sunlight, results come quickly, as the trees will make a remarkably 
luxuriant growth under this treatment. Peaches may be gathered the first 
season, if required, for by securing a few pot-grown trees, eight to ten ripe fruit 
may be taken from each tree. Many varieties that I shall recommend must 
be imported from " the other side," particularly Nectarines. I have found, 
in my experience of importing these trees, that Peaches and Nectarines grown 
in pots are far more satisfactory for importing than trees dug out of the nursery. 
The pot trees will start off unaffected by the 3,000-mile journey. I have never 
lost an imported pot-grown tree, whereas trees from the nursery did not prove 
satisfactory. Fruit growers in Europe are beginning to realize this fact and 
annually grow a large quantity of trees for export. These trees can be trained 
readily into any shape desired. In ordering it is well to state for what purpose 
the trees are wanted, whether for training or otherwise. These pot trees will 
not be trained trees, but will be selected with a view to adjusting them easily 
to any form desired. If quick results are wanted, it is well to secure the trees 
in advance. For instance, if a range of fruit-houses is contemplated, the work 
of building is generally begun in the early Spring, and the number of trees re- 
quired may be secured at once and trained into form to suit the house. Get 
nice, thrifty, young pot-grown trees for this purpose, repot them into pots a 
couple sizes larger than they were grown in and place them in the garden where 
they will get the full benefit of the sun and be sheltered from the north, if possible. 
A temporary trellis may be set up for training the young growth to. All this 
can be done at small expense, and there will be a fine lot of trees to plant in 
the house in the Fall — better than could be secured from the nurseryman, 
for the Peach will make considerable growth in one season here, with good care. 
Trees so treated should yield eighteen Peaches apiece the first season after 
planting. I have known of Peach trees half grown, which were carefully lifted 
and transplanted inside, with immediate results. But I am not in favor of such 
a procedure, for it does not take any great length of time to produce a tree capable 
of carrying a crop of 1 50 or 200 fruit, provided it has room to develop. Plant 
only as many trees as are to grow permanently in the house, for if more are 
planted with a view to removing the superfluous ones before overcrowding the 
others, they are frequently left until too late, and the ensuing disfigurement of 
the remaining trees is not easily remedied. 



100 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

In planting crosswise of the house, it is better to plant only one tree for each 
trellis, and have some in pots or tubs in between, if necessary; these can be then 
shifted when the permanent trees require their space. In this way there will 
be no danger of o\eicrowding or damaging the trees which are to occupy their 
positions for years. If these trees have been grown in pots, reduce the ball 
somewhat, or enough to loosen out the roots, as this will give them a better 
chance to take hold of the new soil and grow more freely. Do not plant too 
deep. It is better to plant a tree a bit high than too low. But try to have 
them on about the same level along the border as they were growing before. 
Firm the soil well around the roots, and put a light mulch cf manure around 
to prevent too rapid evaporation after planting. If the planting is done in 
the Fall and the trees receive one good watering, with a mulch of short farm- 
yard manure, the soil \\ill keep in a moist, healthy condition all through the 



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Peach Bellegarde 

Bellegarde has stood the test as a forcing Peach for many years and can still be 
highly recommended. Excellent for shipping purposes 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES loi 

Winter months, and this will be much better for the roots than watering. But 
this depends on circumstances, as some soils will dry out much more quickly 
than others. So long as the soil is slightly moist everything will go well, but 
if the trees are allowed to dry out, there may be serious trouble. Not that 
they will die, but when root action starts in the Spring, and the blossoms are 
due to expand, the fruit buds will be drooping instead of swelling away, causing 
failure and annoyance for the whole season. 

Whether the trees are planted crosswise of the house or in any other way, 
they should get the same care. In a comparatively narrow leanto house plant 
them along the front wall and train them up the roof on trellis about eighteen 
inches from the glass. If they are grown crosswise in a narrow structure, they 
have no room for development. If trained up the roof, they may be planted 
along the front about six inches from the wall, and at least twelve feet apart; 
but fifteen feet would be none too much to allow for the proper expansion of 
the branches on each side. There is nothing to be gained by overcrowding. 

In growing Peaches under glass, the same principles apply as when Nature 
takes care of them, as to how long a tree will remain in a healthy, vigorous 
condition. Of a dozen trees planted in a house, all receiving the same treat- 
ment, some will give out before others, for reasons not easy to explain. Then, 
again, the Peach borer may get into some with its deadly work, weakening the tree 
to a certain extent. As soon as a tree shows signs of failing health, whether 
it be eight, ten or twenty years old, remove it and replace it by a young tree. 
I have seen excellent fruit gathered from trees that have been planted fifteen 
or sixteen years. This is a pretty good record for a Peach tree under forced 
treatment. If we see a tree begin to fail in health, we have a chance to prepare 
another tree, so that it will yield results at once when planted, whereas in planting 
a small tree, the space would not be filled up for a year or so. 

CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 

The eastern States are admirably adapted for the successful growth of the 
Peach and Nectarine under glass. We can get much quicker results here than 
in some other climates with less sunlight. While rankness in young trees should 
not be encouraged, yet if the wood is thoroughly ripened by the Fall, an abun- 
dant crop is produced in the following season on wood that it would be im- 
possible to ripen in England or Scotland sufficiently to yield fruit, and with good 
judgment there should be a continuous crop from year to year. 

The great secret of success lies in the management of the house and the 
treatment of the trees when the heat is first turned on. Do not excite the buds 
with too much heat, but give them time. The Peach tree does not need much 
coddling. Fresh air, also, is important. The first aim now is to get strong, 
healthy blossoms. Though progress may seem slow, it is better for the fruit. 
After the fruit is set and begins to swell it will make up for lost time. In 
a house started the loth or 15th of December the earliest varieties should be 
ripe about the first week in May. If forced to ripen much before that time, 
the fruit will be premature. It is a serious mistake to try to force newly planted 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 




Nectarine Spencer 
One of the largest, highly colored Nectarines; late in ripening 



young trees before the turn of the season, or the first of February, for they are 
not in a condition to withstand early forcing. And it is not worth while to 
injure them for the small amount of fruit that may be gathered from them 
the first season. 

There is an old saying that " cleanliness is next to godliness." A fruithouse 
thoroughly cleaned before starting will save much worrj' and annoj^ance during 
the growing season, for it is then impossible to use insecticides or fumigations 
strong enough to eradicate evils like the San Jose scale or mealy bug. But 
if the work is done while the trees are dormant, it may be easily accomplished 
either by washing the trees or by fumigatiom. If there are any indications 
of San Jose scale, fumigate with hydrocyanic acid gas, which is the only sure 
means of eradicating them. This gas will also clear out all other insect pests. 
The method of using this gas will be described in the chapter on insect pests. 

When you are sure that the house is clean, remove all the loose soil and 
give the border a light fork-over, being careful not to destroy any roots. Then 
apply a top dressing of a couple of inches of rich soil, or half soil and half rich 
farmyard manure, with a good sprinkling of bone. The richness of the top 
dressing will depend on the condition of the trees. If they have a tendency 
to weakness, let the dressing be light. As a general rule, however, when the 
trees are well established and are carrying heavy crops of fruit, and depend 
wholly on the inside border, considerable feeding is necessary through the season. 
Thomson's manure can be used a couple of times during the season to good 
advantage, at the rate of half a bag (56 pounds) to a house or border 45 x 25 
feet. The first application may be made soon after the house is started. Mix 
the manure with four or five parts of soil and distribute evenlj' over the border. 
In every ca?e after applying Thomson's manure, water in lightly. A good time 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES 



103 



to use this manure is a few days after the border has received a thorough water- 
ing. When a border has been for some months, as during the winter, without 
water, it is surprising what a quantity of water is needed to thoroughly saturate 
the soil, which should be soaked through from top to bottom. 

Another light dressing of Thomson's manure may be applied when the 
Peaches' are half grown. Take a little over half the quantity given for the 
first dressing. It is not necessary to depend wholly on one manure. In fact, 
a couple of waterings during the season with manure water fiom the farmyard 
is verj- beneficial, provided it is not used too strong. 

This question of feeding is an all-important one. The skillful cultivator 
is able to judge when to give food, and the kind of food best suited to the wel- 
fare of his crop. While plants cannot talk, yet their needs may be observed 
by studying the foliage, through which plant life finds its best expression. From 
its appearance the grower will know when to feed and when to refram. In a 
plant that has been fed to the limit, the foliage has substance, with the different 
veins standing out prominently. If the foliage feels brittle to the touch, the 
plant has been overfed, and it should receive no further nourishment for a time; 
otherwise, damage may be done. This applies both to fruit and flowers. An 
interesting and instructive book might be written on the advantages and dis- 
advantages of feeding. Many a piomising crop has been practically ruined 
through overfeeding. To be successful, every grower should study this question 
thoroughly, for experience is the best guide in the end. 




Nectarine Advance 

A second-early Nectarine of rich flavor. Not so highl\- colored as some varieties, but 
worthy of a place in the forcing house 



104 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

Hardwood ashes are also excellent for Peach trees. Potash is desirable 
for the health of the trees, aside from being good for the fruit. 

The Peach tree, as I have stated, does not want strong heat wlien first 
starting. \Miile the temperatures that I shall mention may seem low, still I 
have used this method for many years with good success. I am referring here 
to early forcing, or to a house started about the middle of December. For 
the first week or ten days keep a temperature of 40° by night and 50° to $5° by 
day, then 45 by night, with a corresponding increase by day. As the buds 
begin to swell, increase to 50 by nighl and 60° to 65° by dajs or 70° with sun 
heat. Always admit a crack of air when the thermometer registers 5° 
above the night temperature. The trees will be in full bloom about the end 
of January or the first of February, and if brought along in the low tempera- 
tures above recommended, the blossoms will be strong, with good pollen — 
conditions very desirable for securing a good set. Gradually increase the tem- 
perature from now on, until a night temperature of 60 is reached, with 70° 
to 75 by day. Maintain a fairly dry, bracing air while the trees are in bloom, 
for it is necessary to have the pollen dry around mid-day. The early peach- 
house must be hand-fertilized, for at this early period of the year there are no 
bees around to perform the work. The blossoms should be gone over about 
mid-day, either with a camel's hair brush, or, better still, with a rabbit's tail 
tied to a stick, which will distribute the pollen admirably. 

After the fruit is set, spray every clear day, morning and afternoon. From 
now on the trees and fruit will make rapid headway and can stand more heat if 
it is brought along slowly at first. Here we gain on the time apparently lost 
earlier. 

Airing is an important factor. Both the Peach and the Nectarine want 
plenty of fresh air. It should not, however, be admitted in a haphazard way. 
When the thermometer rises about 5 above the night temperature a crack 
of air may be admitted to good advantage, and gradually increase as the tem- 
perature goes up steadily. Do not admit the air to the extent of lowering the 
temperature or causing a sudden drop, but let the temperature rise gradually 
and also decrease it in the same way. Try to avoid erratic changes. Care- 
lessness along these lines will undo good work, especially through the Winter 
and the early Spring months. 

Careful watering, also, is needed now. While this crop should ne^•er suffer 
for want of moisture at the roots, yet too much water is as bad as a shortage. 
The best way is to give a thorough soaking and then no more until it is neces- 
sary. Arrange the watering period, if possible, so that the tree will not require 
water while the fruit is ripening. This may seem a small matter, but it is an 
important one. For if a quantity of water is dashed around the roots just as 
the fruit is ripening, its flavor will not be improved; nor will it be benefited, on 
the other hand, if the tree is allowed to get too dry. Try to strike the happy 
medium, and this can be done with a little forethought. 

The above directions for the early house apply practically also to the later 
houses; but these do not require the same close attention as to airing, for it 
is not necessary to use fire heat after the first week in May. After the fire heat 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES 105 

is dispensed with. leave a crack of air on all the time. In airing be careful 
not to make any sudden changes of temperature. Squalls frequently come up 
during the Summer months, when the air may be reduced to good advantage. 
In growing Peaches and Nectarines for private use, it is important that 
the supply should be kept up as long as possible. With care in selecting the 
varieties, fruit may be had from the first week in May to the first week in Octo- 
ber. For a steady supply three houses are absolutely necessary, and of these 
the early house is started the middle of December, the second house on the first 
of February, and the late house about the loth of March. It is impossible to 
hold the late trees much longer; in fact, to hold them to that date they must 
be kept as cool as possible, with open ventilators and doors. But it is not safe to 
hold them back after they begin to move or the buds commence to develop, 
otherwise there would be danger of a check. 

DISBUDDING AND TYING THE YOUNG GROWTHS 

Peaches and Nectarines under glass must not be overcrowded; other- 
wise, the wood cannot develop properly. This is an important matter, as the 
success of the following season depends on the treatment of the young wood. 
Fruit trees brought along in a crowded, cramped condition cannot develop 
good buds; these are the prerequisites of good fohage, and require sunlight, with 
space for the foliage to expand. One good fruiting shoot is worth two poor 
ones; therefore, disbudding is an important factor in the work of obtaining 
good fruit. The man in charge of this work must be thoroughly familiar with 
it, for much depends on the waj' in which the operation is carried out. Always 
try to maintain a well-balanced tree. Generally some branches will grow stronger 
than others, and this tendency may be overcome somewhat with good judg- 
ment in disbudding. If all the shoots were allowed to remain, we should soon 
have a " conglomeration of nothing." Disbudding consists in the removal of 
all the surplus shoots. It should be done by degrees. It would be a serious 
mistake to remove them all at one time, for this would give a check to the tree 
not easily remedied. Young trees as a rule do not need the same severe dis- 
budding as old, established trees. With full-grown trees much of the wood 
that bears the fruit is cut away after the crop is gathered, and it is well to secure 
a good shoot at the base of the previous year's growth to take its place. This 
disbudding should be begun while the shoots are quite young, or about half 
an inch long. Remove some of the thickest clusters at first, and repeat the 
operation every other day until the work has been accomplished. Where there is 
fruit and the shoot is not needed, pinch at the third leaf instead of removing the 
shoot, for the remaining foliage is necessary for the development of the fruit. 

By this method of pinching, fruit buds will form during the Summer, or 
toward the Fall, and fruit buds formed on those spurs generally produce ex- 
cellent Peaches the following season. Some branches grow stronger than others, 
and if permanent shoots for the next season's fruiting wood are selected from 
the top side of the extra strong shoots, they will also naturally grow strong. 
As sap flows more freely from the highest point, I would recommend selecting 



io6 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

the shoots on the lowest part of the strong shoots, and, conversely, on the highest 
part of tlie weaker shoots. With careful manipulation the sap may be caused 
to flow evenly and produce a well-balanced tree. Aside from its appearance, 
more fruit can be grown on an evenly-balanced tree than on a lop-sided one. 

Pinching and disbudding require deep thought, and must be done by a man 
with good judgment, who loves his calling. A tree that has been properly 
pinched and disbudded, with all the old and useless wood removed after the 
fruit is gathered, will need very little Winter pruning. If all the useless wood 
is pruned away directly after the fruit is gathered, it relieves the tree of that 
surplus burden, to the decided advantage of the remaining wood. The sap 
can then run through those branches on which the success of the following season 
depends. 

The main object in pinching and disbudding is to leave enough shoots 
to furnish the tree for the following season. Much of the success one year 
depends on what has been done or left undone the year previous. Therefore, 
enough young shoots should remain on the tree, so that when tied into shape 
the young wood is about five inches apart, with plenty of room for development. 
It is easy to ascertain when the old wood must be cut away, after the fruit is 
gathered. The terminal shoot may be pinched at the fourth or fifth leaf, thus 
allowing more space for the young wood, with no damage to the other. The 
ideal tree will be furnished equally all around, from top to bottom, and this 
can be brought about by carefully regulating the flow of the sap. The best 
way to do this is to be cautious in the selection of the shoots. Many will have 
to be pinched, instead of being rubbed off, on account of the fruit. This, how- 
ever, is no detriment, but rather an advantage, as it gives room for the forma- 
tion of spurs here and there over the tree. 

After the operation of disbudding comes that of tying the shoots loosely to 
the trellis. This need not be done until they have made a growth of a foot or 
more, but before the wood gets set or stubborn. It is not at all necessary to 
pinch or stop those shoots; rather allow them to make their full season's growth. 
But any shoot that becomes unusually rank, as often happens even in the most 
skilled hands, should be cut away entirely. 

A tree that is making a satisfactory growth needs tying at intervals during 
the season. If the shoots are found to be crowding one another, one may be 
stopped here and there, but this depends on circumstances. The general prin- 
ciple is, to allow the shoot to make the season's growth unchecked. In our 
climate there will always be a plentiful supply of fruit buds for each succeeding 
season, if the wood has adequate space for development; but when too much 
wood is crowded in, we get blind wood, or at least more wood buds than fruit 
buds. These two can be readily told apart. Nor can a multitude of fruit 
be obtained from unripened wood, for then the blossoms probably will be weak 
and liable to drop before the fruit sets. 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES 107 



CHAPTER XVI 



THINNING THE FRUIT— GATHERING THE PEACHES AND 
NECTARINES WHEN RIPE 

Treatment of Trees after Fruit is Gathered — Pruning and Training 

BOTH the Peach and the Nectarine usually set heavy crops, and if all the 
fruit were allowed on the trees, they would, within a few years, get 
exhausted with overcropping. It is, moreover, impossible to have fancy 
fruit when the tree is overloaded. Fruit from an overcropped tree lacks that 
sweet, delicious flavor which is so much appreciated in fruit grown under glass. 
This is one of the most important points in this kind of fruit culture. While 
severe thinning may seem a waste of fruit, we gain in size and quality what we 
lose in quantity. A fair crop, furthermore, means a steady supply from year to 
year. There are, in fact, no off y«ars with fruit under glass, with proper 
treatment. 

A grower should become famihar with the different varieties before under- 
taking to thin his crop, for some kinds grow much larger than others. A Thomas 
Rivers Peach will require more thinning than a Grosse Mignonne. Noblesse 
Peach, when fairly well thinned, is one of the finest for indoor work, 
but overcrop it and its flavor is flat. The same applies to Nectarines, though 
they may be left on the tree a trifle thicker than Peaches. The improved form 
of this fruit that has appeared in recent years is larger than the Nectarine of 
years ago. Victoria Nectarine, when not overcropped, is magnificent, both in 
size and flavor. Unfortunately, it is somewhat deficient in color, but the flavor, 
which should count more than the color, is all that could be desired. No rules 
can be given as to the quantity of fruit a tree can carry, for it depends on cir- 
cumstances — whether a tree has a tendency to rankness or is of normal growth. 
The first may be allowed to carry more fruit, for it will be beneficial rather 
than hurtful. 

In the house twenty-five feet wide, with the trees planted crosswise, one 
tree for each trellis planted in the center of the house, there will be a spread 
of branches on each side of the main stem of about nine feet, or a complete 
spread of seventeen or eighteen feet, a trellis, say eighteen feet wide and ten feet 
or more in height. A full-grown Peach tree will cover the allotted space on the 
trellis, and it should carry annually from 250 to 300 fruits, according to the 
variety and size, if it is in a healthy, normal condition; this is a safe, conserva- 
tive estimate. 



io8 



FRUITS AND VEGIZTABLES UNDER GLASS 



Some writers on the subject recommend leaving much more fruit than is 
necessary until tiie trees have passed their stoning period and are commencing 
tiieir last swelling. The stoning period is the critical time; occasionally the 
fruit will not, for some unknown reason, stone properly, and the kernel will 
die. Hence the advice to leave on a surplus lot of fruit until they start their 
second swelling, when the danger is past. But I do not recommend leaving 
on many surplus fruits for such an emergency, for when the Peach is once stoned, 
the bulk of the work is practically done as regards the strain on the tree. If 
the forcing process is brought on gradually, with strong blossoms, which means 
abundance of pollen, a perfect set will follow, and there is not much danger of 
the fruit dropping while stoning. 




Peach Bellegarde 



The time for beginning to thin depends on circumstances. Under favor- 
able conditions nearly every blossom will set. In case of a very heavy set, a 
quantity may be removed when about the size of peas. Remove the majority 
from the north side, where trees are planted crosswise of the house, and the 
house runs north and south. The second thinning may be done when they are 
about the size of hazelnuts. Always try to have as many of the fruit as possible 
face the south side, and have the crop divided equally all over. This is better 
for the welfare of the tree, aside from the appearance Peaches that are allowed 
to mature on the spur wood usually turn out magnificent fruit. 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES 109 

In thinning fruit down to normal crops, it is better to repeat the operation 
three or four times, than to be too severe at one time. Do the final thinning 
when they are about the size of walnuts. This will give one a better line on 
them. The process of thinning is a deceptive one. I have often thinned down 
to what I thought would leave about 300 fruits on each tree, only to find later 
that I had left at least 500. It is not a bad plan, therefore, to get a line on the 
tree when they are gone over for the final thinning. When the fruit takes on 
its last swelling, after stoning, and begins to color, every single fruit will show 
up, and I have been often astonished to find that I have been far off in my 
estimation. I now make it a practice to count one tree roughly, as a guide to the 
others, and I thus come pretty near to the mark. The question of proper thin- 
ning is one of the most serious which the cultivator has to face. Although the 
work itself is not difficult, it takes a man of nerve to thin down to the required 
number. Many a time, when I have gone over the trees for the last thinning, 
and have pulled off some thrifty looking specimens, so as to bring down- my 
crop to a fair average, I have felt guilty of waste. But we must remember 
that in producing fruit under glass we are striving for the highest perfection, 
and this cannot be attained if the trees are overcropped. 

But we must not go to the other extreme, for if a tree is given too light a 
load, it may develop a tendency to rankness, and this is not desirable for a 
healthy tree. Keep to the golden rule, and this depends on conditions. Our 
climate is ideal for Peach culture under glass, and what we call an average 
crop would be heavy in a less favorable climate. If a tree produces iqo to 300 
handsome fruits year after year it should satisfy the grower. 

The subject of gathering the fruit may seem superfluous to discuss, as any 
one can tell when the fruit is ripe. While this may be true, yet one must know 
the exact moment of maturity. If a Peach is pulled off too ripe, it loses some 
of its flavor, and it is also lacking in flavor if pulled too green. The fruit 
should be gathered as soon as possible after it is ready. Sometimes it will 
be highly colored where the sun strikes it, long before it is ripe. In such a 
case the fruit will give warning a few days before it is ready by the rich aroma 
which it exhales; we must then keep close watch so that it may not get over- 
ripe and drop. 

This fruit when ripe is very easily bruised and disfigured, and should there- 
fore be handled with great care. It is an almost unpardonable offense to set 
disfigured hothouse Peaches and Nectarines on the dinner table. The best 
way to gather this fruit is by hand. Take the Peach in the hollow of the hand, 
holding the fingers as nearly as possible behind the fruit; if perfectly ripe, gentle 
pressure will release it from the tree, and it may be removed without the slight- 
est mark or blemish. Testing by the finger-and-thumb method is a very rep- 
rehensible habit as it invariably produces blemishes on ripe fruit. In extremely 
hot weather the trees may be gone over in the morning and afternoon and the 
ripe fruit gathered. It is not necessary to handle them much. If the fruit 
changes color around the stem, this is usually a signal to get busy. It is a mis- 
take to hold Peaches in the ice box for any length of time. While they may be 
kept for about a week in this way, they lose their brisk flavor. 



no FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

TREATMENT OF TREES AFTER FRUIT IS GATHERED 

Success or failure depends to a great extent on tlie treatment which the 
trees receive after tlic fruit is gathered. The Iruithouse is naturall>- more 
interesting while the fruit is developing. But we should remember that the 
fruit buds will continue to develop as long as the foliage remains on the trees, 
and if we neglect those buds at this stage there will be a serious setback for the 
following season's crop. Not that a great amount of time and labor need be 
put on the trees. Leave on all the air possible from this time on, except in 
case ol wind storms or heavy rains, when the ventilators should be lowered 
enough to shed the water or to guard against the gusts of wind. 

During three hot months following the gathering of the crop in May and 
June there will be rapid evaporation, with full ventilation both top and bottom. 
Then the border will occasionally dry out quickly. While the trees should 
not be saturated at this time, yet they should not suffer for want of moisture 
at their roots so long as they are carrying their green foliage. When watering 
give a thorough soaking, otherwise there may be a moist surface \\ith a dry 
bottom. This is a condition very unfavorable for the health and vigor of the 
fruit trees, and is one of the chief causes of the dropping of the buds in the 
following Spring. Perfectly developed buds will not drop to any extent, unless 
they are unreasonably rushed along with artificial heat when they are started 
up early in the season. However, too much water is as bad as not enough; for 
with an inside border an over-supply of water will cause souring of the soil, 
especially after the trees have made the bulk of their growth. I emphasize 
the danger of neglect at this period of the tree's life, for if a tree does not 
get the proper treatment now, it will not do its best work in the season to follow. 

Toward the Fall, when the trees have completed their growth and the wood 
is fairly well ripened, less water is required. The border is now apt to crack; 
this may be prevented by keeping the surface raked over, or a light mulch may 
be applied, as a cracked border tends to break the fine working roots, which 
are the most essential for the tree. 

Spraying the foliage is also important at this time, otherwise red spider 
will make rapid headway. The trees can be sprayed to good advantage twice 
a day, in the morning and at night. Bear in mind that with indoor fruit the 
trees are depending wholly on you for their sustenance, especially when there 
is only an inside border. This border is all right, particularly for forcing, but 
the supply of moisture at the roots calls for close attention. With old estab- 
lished trees, which are matted with roots, it is occasionally difficult to get the 
water to soak in thoroughly around the base. In this case it is best to turn 
on the hose, letting the water run very slowly for about an hour, or until you are 
satisfied that it has penetrated through. This slow process of watering is effec- 
tive on any dry spot, and does not call for constant watching of the hose. 

When a heavy crop has been taken from the trees, a light feed will be of 
benefit. But this depends on the condition of the trees. If they are unusually 
vigorous, it may hurt them; but trees that have no tendency to rankness, with 
the border full of roots, may be fed once or twice to good advantage. A light 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES 




112 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

dressing of wood-asiics on tlit- surface, applied when tliej- are in need of water 
and then watered in, is very good for the development of the fruit buds. A 
surprising amount of feeding can be done when the trees are well established 
and in full liealth and vigor. Heavy feeding at one time is dangerous, for it 
is liable to burn the roots, and this does more harm than good. It is much safer 
to feed lightly and often. 

A certain amount of potash is excellent for this crop, botii when tiie trees 
are carrying the fruit and when finishing up their wood for the following season. 
Potash applied in the form of hardwood ashes is as good as any other. I have 
used it successfully for many years. Some soils will take more than others. 
Study your soil and apply the ashes accordingly. 

The foremost authorities on fruit culture are agreed that the following 
elements are necessary for the maintenance of thrifty, healthy, vigorous trees 
for any length of time: Phosphoric acid, potash, lime and nitrogen. These 
may be applied separately or in the form of a complete fertilizer. The inex- 
perienced grower will llnd it easier to use a complete manure, for all the high 
grade manures give full directions as to how much to appl.\' in order to get the 
best results. For light feeding after the crop is gathered phosphoric acid and 
potash are the best, as they will firm up the wood and develop the buds. I 
attribute whatever success I may have had during many j'ears of handling 
Peaches and Nectarines under glass to the carrying out of those simple rules. 

If any hardwood plant is forced while the buds are not fully developed, 
or the wood is not well ripened, the result is far from satisfactory, e\en if the 
plant gets the best of care. The same applies to fruit under glass. Give j'our 
trees good treatment along these lines, and you will be more than repaid the 
following season. 

I do not believe in tying the shoots much after the crop is off; better let 
them hang a bit loose. If every shoot is tied in place the house will present a 
much neater appearance; but as our object is to produce high class fruit, we 
should give trees the amount of liberty which agrees best with them. Trees 
may occasionally make a few sappy growths toward the Fall; these should 
be cut away before they take much strength from the other shoots. Much 
may be said as to the treatment of the trees after the fruit is gathered. I trust 
that I have demonstrated the importance of proper treatment, for it means 
healthy trees, and healthy trees mean an abundance of high grade fruit, whicli 
is the aim of every grower. 

PRUNING AND TRAINING 

The Peach tree requires both Winter and Summer pruning. If disbudding 
and the cutting away of useless wood have received proper attention during 
the growing season of the trees, not much Winter pruning will be necessary. 
The grower should be thoroughly familiar with the mode of bearing and should, 
above all, be able to distinguish the wood bud from the fruit bud. Occasion- 
ally, especially when the trees get older, there will be quite a space toward the 
terminal ends of the shoots where there will be more fruit buds than wood buds. 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES 113 

It is easj' to tell the one from the other: the wood bud is more pointed and 
conical, while the fruit bud is almost round and also larger. As the fruit buds 
will always predominate, especially when the wood has been properly ripened, 
we can tell, in the case of the Peach tree at the end of the growing season, what 
the prospects will be for the following season. If the buds stand out prominently 
we may rest assured that any failure will be our own fault. Judgment should 
be used in any pruning that is done, as so much depends on the thrift and vigor 
of the tree. 

The object of pruning is to furnish space for tying in the young wood, as 
we are chieflj' depending on this for the next season's work, unless the trees are 
supplied with some spur wood, of which there should be the proper amount, 
if Summer pinching has been done. 

Winter pruning may be commenced any time after the leaves are off, for 
then the buds are fully developed. Or it may be done any time between the 
falling of the foliage and the rising of the sap. Before beginning to prune, all 
the young wood should be cut loose from the trellis, leaving only the main 
branches tied to keep the shape of the tree, as a gauge for pruning. Always 
try to have a well-balanced tree. If a tree is inclined to be a little more vigor- 
ous on one side than on the other, prune the heavy side a little more severely. 
Here we see the advantage of having a house running north and south, for in 
such a location there is little or no difficulty in preserving an evenly-balanced 
tree. The sun will shine on both sides some part of the day and this is a great 
help toward regulating the sap. 

A tree will sometimes make quite a growth durmg the Summer, and the 
shoots may be benefited by some shortening back. In this case be careful to 
prune to a wood bud, for if you prune to a fruit bud, the wood will eventually 
die back, and as there will be no foliage, there will be no sap beyond the wood 
bud. This shows how absolutely necessary it is to be familiar with the two 
kinds of buds. Some varieties of Peaches are more shy than others in producing 
wood buds, especially toward the terminal ends, but when a shoot is to be short- 
ened back, it must be cut at the wood bud. 

Peach trees, like most other kinds of fruit trees, may be trained into almost 
any desired shape. The fan shape is the best and simplest. When planting 
a young tree, do not allow the growths to progress unchecked, or the tree will 
soon reach the top of the trellis at the expense of the lower branches. Prune 
back any strong growing shoots, so that the bottom of the trellis will be furnished 
before the top. If these strong growths are not checked they will make an 
ungainly tree within a few years; and it will then be too late to restrain it. The 
easiest and the only proper time to balance the tree is when it is young. Do 
not plant trees in a position where it would be impossible to carry the same 
amount of foliage on one side as on the other. This may seem exact to the 
extreme, yet it is a highly important point, and there is no argument which can 
be advanced against it. Plant a tree where Nature will care for it. That tree 
will have about equal foliage on both sides if it has proper space for development. 
Bear in mind this lesson from Nature when planting Peaches under glass. 
Though Peaches have been planted in years gone by in positions where there 



114 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

was not space sufTicient for their full dexelopment, and fair results have been 
obtained, this is no argument for scrimping the tree as to space. Provide a 
roomy house for your trees, so that each and every one may have an equal 
chance, and they will more than repay you for your liberality. 

Pruning may be viewed under three different aspects. In the first place, 
ail the very weakest wood should be removed. Then, if necessary, shorten 
back the wood intended for the following season's fruiting, if it is overcrowded. 
When the fruiting shoots are more than eighteen inches long, they are improved 
by shortening back some; this will make the growth become more uniform. 
For instance, if a growth of two feet or more has been made in one season, short- 
ening this back to eighteen inches will cause the shoot to break more regularly 
and also stronger. This refers to medium growths. A tree planted eight 
or ten years will throw shorter wood, sometimes not over a foot long; this should 
not be shortened back. 

A tree that has been pruned so that the fruiting wood, when arranged and 
tied in all over, is five to six inches apart, is about right. This refers to full- 
grown trees. Give the trees the proper care in the matter of disbudding. Then 
in due time select a shoot at the base, and train this during the Summer. Re- 
move the shoots that have borne fruit as soon as the crop is gathered, except 
those that are needed to balance the tree evenly. The process is a simple one 
when understood, and an interesting one from start to finish. Be sure to guard 
against the overcrowding of branches and foliage. 

Next after pruning comes the operation of tying the shoots into place. If 
the tree has been properly attended to, there will be sufficient branches to spread 
evenly all over the trellis or frame work. Distribute and tie all the main branches 
first, then tie in the fruiting wood, starting at the bottom of the tree and working 
up. The strongest shoots may be secured with soft string and the smaller 
ones with raffia; do not tie the latter tight, but allow for the growth of the 
Summer months. Peach trees when pruned and tied evenly all over the trellis 
look very neat. 

The young tree's tendency to rank growth may be modified to some extent 
by allowing a fairly heavy crop of fruit during the first three or four years. If 
this will not check the exuberance, then root pruning must be resorted to. This 
consists in shortening back the strongest roots, or digging a trench around the 
tree three or four feet from the base, according to size. If the strong growing 
roots are thus checked, there will be a much firmer and more moderate growth. 
Root pruning will also cause the tree to produce more fibrous roots, and these 
are the most desirable for the fruit-bearing wood. When the trench has been 
dug around the tree, cut the roots with a sharp knife, making a clean cut which 
will heal quickly. All Peach pruning, by the way, should be done with a knife. 

The effects of root pruning will become apparent the following season. 
The reduction of nourishment will induce less rapid development. Judgment, 
however, must be used in this work. Do not root-prune too severely, as it will 
have a bad effect on the tree for a year at least. While the fruit buds would 
no doubt be plentiful under the close root-pruning process, the fruit would be 
smaller in size. 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES 



"5 



The best time for root-pruning Peaches and Nectarines is after they have 
completed their season's growth, or at least a week or so before they drop their 
fohage in the Fall. Different writers have recommended different periods of 
the year, but the early Fall is the most appropriate time. The wood is then 
pretty well firmed up, the extreme heat is over, and finally, it allows time for 
the trees to adjust themselves and for the cuts to callus, and root action will 
begin after the turn of the year. 

In growing these trees under artificial treatment much better results will 
be obtained if they make a fair, moderate growth; but young trees will grow rank, 
especially if the border has been made over rich, and in such a case root-pruning 
is the best means of bringing the tree around to normal growth. Usually a 
tree may be brought into good shape by a little heavier cropping if it is grow- 
ing too strong. The fruiting wood on full grown trees should be shortened 
back to about eighteen inches, according to circumstances. With a strong 
growing young tree the object is to cover the trellis as soon as possible, if it can 
be done without damage to the shape; here the wood may be left considerably 
over eighteen inches; indeed, it is of advantage to have two or three feet of young 
growth if the shoots are strong, and with the rapid growth that they make it 
is possible to ripen fairly strong wood to produce fruit the following season. 




Nectarine Newton 

Newton Nectarine will be found excellent as a midseason variety, handsome in appearance, 

with a rich Stanwick flavor 



ii6 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CHAPTER XVII 



DISEASES AND INSECT PESTS THAT AFFECT PEACHES 
AND NECTARINES 

THE successful grower of indoor fruit must wage an incessant fight against 
insect pests and diseases. Tiiese affect both the Peach and Nectarine 
more or less, and if not checked will spread more rapidly than on trees 
grown in the open field or garden. This is especially the case with San Jose scale. 
The extra heat and humidity of the house favor the rapid increase of this no.xious 
pest. When I was working for some years in a district where San Jose scale 
was very prevalent on all outside fruit trees and shrubs, I decided to import 
all my Peaches and Nectarines, with the view to having clean stock. But my 
precaution was useless, for while I got my trees in good condition, San Jose 
scale appeared within a year, although I did not come into close contact with 
the scale outside, the infected trees being some distance away. It seems, there- 
fore, that small birds and bees, and especially the bumble bee with its hairlike 
feet, are the means of carrying and spreading this pest. The scale, when just 
hatched, is as fine as dust. At that time hydrocyanic acid gas was little known, 
and the only means we had of keeping the pest in check was lime, sulphur and 
salt. This formula was troublesome to use in a close structure, with white paint 
to protect, but it was fairly successful. We discarded it later in favor of hydro- 
cyanic acid gas. 

It was different with the Peach borer, however, for while we used the lime- 
sulphur formula about four years and succeeded in keeping the borer down, 
when we discarded this for the gas, the borer appeared again in numbers. I 
have found in my long experience with different insecticides and fungicides, 
that we may learn something from all of them. 

Insect pests, if allowed full sway, will very soon weaken the constitution 
of even the most healthy and vigorous of trees. During the Winter months, 
or while the temperature is low, they hibernate in their burrows under the bark, 
reappearing and beginning their work of destruction when the warm weather 
comes or the heat is turned on. Larvae of various sizes may be found on the 
trees at almost any time, ranging from very small ones to those that are nearly 
full grown. The period of preparation and emerging of the moth being extended, 
there will be different crops during the season. The borer turns into a cocoon 
and comes to the surface just before the fly emerges from the same. With 
close attention the borer may be gathered up before the fly leaves its cage. It 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES 



117 




Peach Thomas Rivers 

Thomas Rivers Peach is one of the largest. It is particularly handsome and a very free 
cropper, but not quite so rich in flavor as one would wish 



ii8 FRUITS AND VEGETAGLES UNDER GLASS 

is wonderful to observe how Nature will guard her creatures against detection, 
for the cocoon is of very nearly the same color as the soil, and therefore not 
easily seen. These wasp-like insects mate soon after their emergence, and the 
female commences at once to deposit her eggs indiscriminately on the trunk or 
in the crevices of the bark. The moths may be seen flying around during the 
day, but it is almost impossible to catch them owing to tiicir agility. The female 
is somewhat larger than the male. It is also nearly impossible to detect the 
eggs. They will hatch in about ten days from the time they are deposited. 
The young larvae at once make their way into the cre\'ices of the bark, and, 
if not disturbed, will eventually bore into the trees, keeping up their destructive 
operations until the cold weather sets in again. As a preventive the trees may 
be painted around the base or trunk with a mixture of lime and sulphur with a 
little salt; this last named ingredient will cause the other two to adhere more 
firmly to the stem or the trunk. Take one and one-half pounds of lime to one 
pound of sulphur, with one-third pound of salt. This is about the same pro- 
portion as the lime and sulphur formula. The amount given here will be enough 
to make four gallons of wash. Slake the lime in a vessel containing hot water, 
about one-third of the total required. Add the sulphur while the lime is slak- 
ing; it will mix easier if it has been previously made into a thick paste. Add 
the salt last. This may be allowed to cook over a slow fire for a time, stirring 
once in a while. Then add enough water to the mixture to make about four 
gallons. While I do not say that this is a sure cure for the borer, it will act as 
a preventive and check its spreading. It may be applied with a spray pump or 
or brush; the former will reach the crevices better. The operation is a simple 
one, takes little time, and positively does not injure the trees. 

San Jose scale was brought east from California about twenty-five years 
ago, and ten years ago it began to spread so rapidly that it almost seemed as 
if the fruit trees were doomed. My first experience with it dates back about 
fourteen years. I had at that time some Peaches and Nectarines in tubs, and 
as the pest was new to me, it got beyond my control, with the result that the 
trees were chopped down and burned. This was not a bad thing to do at the 
time, as I did not know how to fight them, and they seemed to thrive on the 
ordinary remedies. But, thanks to the valuable information given out by our 
Experiment Stations, especially in connection with indoor fruit, this pest now 
causes us little worry. 

The scale must be fought when it is first detected. If the trees are allowed 
to become infested, the scale will play havoc with the bark, causing it to appear 
dried up, and it will suck the life out of the trees. Hydrocyanic acid gas will 
easily keep the scale down. This fumigation must be done while the trees are 
perfectly dormant. The Peach and Nectarine will stand a considerable amount 
of gas when the buds are dormant, with seemingly no injury to the buds. They 
may be kept fairly free from scale by light fumigation everj' year. It calls for 
very little work. Be careful to stop up all crevices, for if the gas escapes into 
an adjoining house, it may do damage to a growing crop. I have used ten ounces 
of cyanide of potassium fused 50 per cent, for every 1000 cubic feet of space, 
with no apparent injury to the trees. But I prefer to use the gas before the 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES iig 

scale makes any headway, taking about seven ounces for every looo cubic feet, 
fused 50 per cent. For every pound of cyanide take one quart of sulphuric 
acid and two quarts of water. Use earthenware receptacles. First place the 
water in the jar, according to the amount of acid that is to go in. Then pour 
in the sulphuric acid, and finally the cyanide. This completes the operation. 
For a house fifty feet long prepare three vessels, as the fumigation is so much 
stronger than for growing stock. Do not remain in the house after dropping 
in the cyanide; get out at once and close the door tight. Bear in mind that 
the combination in the jars develops a deadly gas, which is not to be handled 
carelessly; but with proper precaution there is no danger. Leave the house 
closed up for one hour, and then throw open the ventilators. This fumigation 
will free the house from all insect pests, even mealy bug. The United States 
Department of Agriculture publishes a pamphlet on this method of fumigation, 
which gives explicit directions as to the precautions to be taken. This has had 
several years' test and the results are quite satisfactory. 

Green fly is occasionally troublesome in the peach-house, especially during 
the period when the fruit is setting. This is precisely the time when the grower 
is handicapped in fighting it, "for he cannot spray until the fruit is set, nor can he 
fumigate. Green fly will play havoc with the young foliage. The foliage will 
curl up, turn yellow and lose its vitality if the fly is allowed to remain on it for 
any length of time. 

When the fruit is set, the fly may be cleared out very quickly, for the trees 
can again be sprayed both in tlie morning and the afternoon; this will check 
the fly's progress. Spray also every ten days with a solution of whale oil soap, 
using just enough soap to color the water. This is a preventive against green 
fly, red spider or any other insect pest, and it will give the foliage a glossy, 
healthy appearance. First dissolve the soap in hot water, and then pour enough 
into the water intended for spraying the trees to soften it, but no more. I 
believe that this treatment is of benefit to the foliage, aside from destroying 
insects, for after a couple of applications the foliage will look as if it were polished. 
Good, clean, healthy foliage is the first requisite for perfect fruit; the latter, 
indeed, cannot be finished satisfactorily unless the foliage is in perfect shape. 

I have never found mildew troublesome in the peach-house, when proper 
attention is given to the airing. Air the house freely; too much coddling will 
invite all kinds of diseases. With good management, there are not many fungi- 
cides to fight under glass. But there is one disease, generally the most notice- 
able, which needs close watching, namely, fruit rot or blight. It appears in 
the latter part of Summer, usually after a spell of very close, muggy weather. 
The best remedy for this is to keep the house a bit drier, gather immediately 
any fruit that begins to decay, and destroy it, otherwise this fungous disease 
will spread rapidly. It will be found on examination that the decayed part 
of the fruit is full of diseased spores; these will spread if left to remain on the 
tree, and will affect the young wood next to the diseased Peach, occasionally 
killing it. If the disease is allowed to go unchecked, it will cause serious trouble 
and the destruction will be rapid. As a precaution against this disease, whether 
it appears or not, keep the atmosphere a bit dry. There is no danger of trouble 



120 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

until tlic fruit is just beginning to ripen. I iia\e never been troubled witii 
this fungus wiiiie using artificial heat, which is good proof of the beneficial effect 
of a congenial, bracing atmosphere. All fungous diseases require certain con- 
ditions for their development or spreading. As I ha\e said, we have practically 
the means in our hands for creating the ideal conditions for the best welfare 
of the trees and fruit. We ha\'e no storms to fight, and when a sudden change 
in temperature occurs, the \'entilators may be closed down. Thus, by using our 
judgment in providing for the needs of our trees, we can keep them free of any 
of these diseases. It is better to look ahead and prepare for the enemy than 
to try and fight him after he has come. 




Peach Noblesse 

To anyone not acquainted with the admirable qualities of the Noblesse Peach, its appearance 

would be deceiving, as the variety is a httie deficient in color. The flavor, however, 

is rich and juicy. It is an excellent midseason Peach for forcing purposes 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES 



CHAPTER XVIII 



SELECTION OF VARIETIES FOR FORCING PURPOSES 

THERE are enough varieties at command, both of Peaches and Nectarines, 
for forcing purposes, to satisfy even the most exacting. It is a truly 
wonderful collection, including both European and American varieties, 
with new and improved kinds appearing from time to time. This makes the 
work doubly interesting and alluring. But we must keep in close touch with 
the fruit, as experience only will teach us how to judge of the quality of the 
many varieties at our disposal. This applies especially to the grower for private 
use, for here it is not a question of a large crop at one time, but one of a continu- 
ous supply over an extended period. Different varieties should therefore be 
planted in a house, so that one kind will succeed another without interruption. 
As I have already stated, it is possible, with the proper facilities at command, 
and careful selection of varieties, to have a continuous supply, either of Peaches 
or of Nectarines, from the first week in May to the first week in October. 

My experience of the kinds that I recommend extends over the last twenty 
years, and I therefore feel sure of my ground. Every up-to-date fruit grower 
should take note of the different varieties, their time of ripening, etc., and com- 
pare his data at the end of the season. Aside from its interest, this plan is edu- 
cational, and of great benefit for future reference. The memory may be trusted 
to a certain extent, but the notebook is often more faithfuL I recommend 
the notebook habit especiahy to the younger generation of gardeners, for they 
will find well-kept notes an invaluable friend in the years to come. What we 
learn by our own experience makes the deepest and most lasting impression. 

The improvement that has been made in recent years seems marvelous to 
anyone familiar with the list of forcing fruit thirty years ago. At that date 
there was some excellent material, more especially of Peaches than of Nectarines. 
Of the latter we had Hunt's Tawny, Balgowan, Imperatrice, Violette Crosse, 
Red Roman and a few others. But these have been relegated to the back 
shelf in favor of the more recent introductions. 

The late Thomas Rivers of Sawbridgeworth, England, made it his life study 
to improve the different varieties of fruit. His success is known far and wide, 
and he has left a monument to his name that will stand for generations to come. 
Apples, Pears, Plums, Peaches, and Nectarines, and his early Rivers Cherry 
par excellence, have all been enriched to a wonderful degree by his skillful work. 
Thomas Rivers did more for the improvement of fruit intended for forcing pur- 



122 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

poses tlian any other man. It was my good fortune to meet this leader in fruit 
culture some years ago while on a visit to his interesting nursery. His li\'ely 
discussion of his \arious experiments is still fresh in my mind. 1 remember, 
particularly, his pointing out to me his first Peach tree grow n in a pot, which, 
I think, was at that time 36 years old, and was still in a good state of preser- 
vation. It was the pride of his collection, the honored tree in his nursery. 

In taking up the selection of varieties for forcing purposes, which is as 
important as tiic cultural directions, I shall first gi\e a list for early, midseason 
and late houses, for this di\ision is necessary if an extended season is the object. 
I could ha\e made m\ list considerabl\- longer, but it will be found to cover the 
ground thoroughly, while a more e.\tensi\e list would complicate matters for 
the grower not in close touch with the merits of each. 

The European \arietics should be relied on principally for indoor work, 
although any one preferring a yellow-lleshed Peach will find Foster Peach admir- 
ably adapted as a forcing kind, finishing up with intense color and abo\'e the 
average in size. Crawford's Late will also produce handsome specimens under 
glass. Generally the white-fleshed fruit is preferable for table use, but a tree or 
two of the yellow-lleshed varieties should be included in the house, for with their 
high color they make an imposing, massive showing on the table. If they 
combine extra large size with this color, they will get the place of honor and be 
the most admired. I have gathered fine specimens of Mountain Rose, which 
is white-fleshed and fine in flavor. 

I have found that in the midseason house, which is started considerably 
later than the early house, it is well to plant a couple of fairly early sorts, and 
have the others come along in succession. 

The following is a list of varieties that may be relied upon for all the three 
houses, in their order of succession from early to late in each section: 

EARLY HOUSE 

Nectarines — Cardinal, Early Rivers, Advance, Stanwick Elruge. 
Peaches — Duchess of Cornwall, Hale's Early, Peregrine, Noblesse, Duke 
of York. 

MIDSEASON HOUSE 

Nectarines — Early Rivers, Lord Napier, Stanwick Elruge, Humboldt, 
Spencer. 

Peaches — Early Rivers, Peregrine, Dr. Hogg, Crosse Mignonne, Bellegarde, 
Princess of Wales. 

LATE HOUSE 

Nectarines — Chaucer, Pine Apple, Spencer, Victoria. 

Peaches — Dymond, Bellegarde, Princess of Wales, Thomas Rivers, Lady 
Palmerston. 

The last-named variety is not especially good in flavor, but, ripening just 
after the others are gathered, it will extend the season for about ten days longer, 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES 



123 



which may at times be a consideration, especially so when large quantities of 
hothouse fruit are produced. Lady Palmerston may be improved somewhat 
in quality by allowing it to remain on the tree until it is fairly well ripened, as 
it is naturally a firm fruit. 

There are many other valuable varieties to be recommended for forcing 
under glass. A more extended hst may therefor be of service here: 




Peach Goshawk 
A very large midseason variety, with exquisite flavor 

NECTARINES 



Albert Victor — Large green with dull red cheek; ripens about the same time 
as Pine Apple. 

Byron — Very highly colored; yellow flesh; excellent flavor. Good for 
growing in pots or tubs. 

Dryden — One of the highest-colored white-fleshed varieties that I know of. 

EIruge — One of the older varieties, with fine rich flavor, and still worthy of 
a place on the fruit list. 

Improved Downton — A variety that v^'as raised from the Downton Nec- 
tarine, which is a decided improvement on the former. 



124 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

Milton — A very fine variety for either planting in the border or growing 
in tubs. It is highly colored and can be recommended for its handsome appear- 
ance and rich flavor. 

Newton — Also excellent for our climate and particularly good for growing 
in tubs. The fruit is large, with white flesh, parting freely from the stone. It 
has a distinct Stanwick flavor. 

Rivers Orange — A yellow-fleshed sort; not quite as large as some of the 
others, but the flavor is all that could be desired. It is a bit earlier than its 
parent, Pitmaston Orange, and a decided improvement on the old standby. 

PEACHES 

Albatross — A fine Peach; seedling of Princess of Wales, which has proved 
one of our very best as a late variety. 

Alexander — A very early and popular American \ariety, with a brisk, 
juicy flavor. 

Alexandra Noblesse — Resembles Noblesse very much. Yields large fruit, 
pale green in color with a very rich flavor. A strong, robust grower, and heavy 
crops may be. gathered from trees grown in tubs. 

Dagmar — A second early; very downy skin, deep rich color, and handsome. 

Dr. Hogg — Handsome midseason Peach of healthy constitution and ex- 
cellent for tubs or in the border. 

Foster Peach — American variety. Undoubtedly one of the best yellow- 
fleshed varieties for growing under glass. The fruit is large, rich in color and 
highly ornamental for indoor work. 

Gladstone — Valuable as a late Peach. 

Goshawk and Dymond — These two resemble each other and ripen at the 
same time. Both are strong, robust growers, and are good varieties for grow- 
ing in pots or tubs. They are somewhat deficient in color, but the flavor is 
all that could be desired. 

Early Grosse Mignonne — A midseason Peach of medium size and excellent 
quality. 

Merlin — Seedling from Early Grosse Mignonne; larger than its parent 
and particularly rich in flavor, ripening at about the same time. 

Sea Eagle — A late, very large Peach of good color. 

Nectarine Peach — So named because its skin is smooth, like that of a 
Nectarine; it can be highly recommended as a late variety. 

Crawford's Late — Highly recommended as a first-class, late Peach; large 
and handsome. It is one of the standard varieties for outdoor work, but can 
also be grown under glass. 

Mountain Rose — Can be relied upon for growing under glass as a second 
early Peach. I have produced very fine fruits from this varietj' both in the 
early and in the midseason house; it is of good quality and color. 

This list may seem longer than is necessary, but it is very interesting to 
test difl"erent varieties. Where pot or tub fruits are grown extensively, a com- 
prehensive list to select from gives opportunity to increase and varj- one's col- 



PEACHES AND NECTARINES 



125 




ill 



1 



**« 



2 



II 



Peach Peregrine 




Peach Thomas Rivers 

The above two varieties will meet a demand for large, showy Peaches— Peregrine for 
midseason and Thomas Rivers as a late kind 



126 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



lection, for when grown in pots or tubs fruit trees do not need the same space 
as those set out in the border. 

The list might be still further extended, but I think that it will be found 
sufficient for both early and late forcing. I have omitted some of the earliest 
kinds, for the reason that I do not approve of growing more of the very early sorts 
than is necessary, as the midseason and late Peaches are superior, both in size 
and quality. The grower intending his fruit only for the market and anxious 
to get it out as early as possible will probably want more of the early sorts. 



POT^FRUIT CULTURE AND ITS ADVANTAGES 127 



CHAPTER XIX 

POT FRUIT CULTURE AND ITS ADVANTAGES 
House Suitable for Pot Fruit 

POT fruit has been grown for many years with much success, but only 
in the past ten or fifteen years has it been grown to any extent in this 
country. When this method was first started, many years ago, it 
was generally thought that it would be impossible to produce high class fruit 
under these conditions. Growers said that starvation would be the result, 
or that the trees would be exhausted within a few years. But time and ex- 
perience have taught us differently. It has been proved that trees adapt them- 
selves admirably to this restricted way of growing, and that they are capable 
of carrying good, average crops every year. In our climate the life of the trees 
may, with good care, be safely set down as ten or fifteen years, and this is long 
enough to satisfy most fruit men. 

Not only are the trees good for many years, but the fruit taken from them 
is of excellent quality, with intense color. The Pear, for instance, will produce 
finer fruit here under the pot system than in Europe. Our dry, bracing chmate 
secures a good set annually. The improvement in Pears grown under glass 
is very noticeable, both as to size and finish, provided the proper kinds are 
selected. In speaking of this class of fruit, it is customary to use the term 
" pot fruit." At the establishment of Thomas Rivers and Son, England, which 
is the home of the pot tree system, pots are decidedly preferred to tubs. But 
there is a wide difference in atmospheric conditions between England and our 
country; the former has a moist, moderate climate, while that of the latter is 
dry, often with extreme heat. Therefore, tubs are to be preferred here when 
the trees get large enough for them. When I first began to grow fruit in this 
country, many years ago, I naturally clung to the training of my boyhood days, 
when the pot system was used. But I found out in the course of time that 
the pots are too dry and hot for the roots. I then tried plunging the pots, but 
this did not seem congenial to the roots, and I then tried the tubs. I now recom- 
mend tubs as being preferable to pots, that is, when the trees are large enough, 
or from a 15-inch tub up. 

The advantages of growing tub fruit are many. In the first place, the work 
is interesting because a variety of fruit can be grown in this way. I may say 
that the orchardhouse is one of the most tempting of the whole range, from the 



128 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

time that the trees are started until tiie fruit is fully de\eloped; particluarly 
so when the trees are shapely. An orchardhouse in full bloom is a lovely sight, 
but to see those little trees later on loaded down with their perfectly developed 
fruit calls forth exclamations of wonder and delight. The quantity of fruit 
that can be grown in a moderate-sized house is truly surprising. 

There are still other advantages of tub fruit. Many a house stands idle 
during the Summer months that could be used to good advantage by placing 
some of these trees in them, for they will grow well in any light house where 
they get the full sunlight; and where a house is set aside for tub trees, it may 
be used for other purposes for four months of the year at least, that is, with 
due precaution as to the class of material grown therein. Do not use it as a 
planthouse, for it may become infested with mealy bug, which is not a desirable 
guest to have in a fruithouse. The orchardhouse, moreover, gives results the 
first season, if pot grown trees are secured, as should be done. Taking everj'- 
thing into consideration, therefore, pot grown fruits have many advantages in 
their favor. Apples, Apricots, Cherries, Figs, Pears, Plums, Peaches and Nectar- 
ines, all adapt themselves to the orchardhouse treatment. But a good-sized 
house is necessary to grow all these kinds with a fair complement of each. 

I presume that most of this class of fruit is grown in private establishments, 
and generally with one house set aside for that purpose. All the fruit men- 
tioned above will thrive together, with the possible exception of Cherries. My 
experience with Cherries in a mixed house has been anything but encouraging, 
for they have a tendency to drop their fruit before stoning. I shall have more 
to say later as to the best kinds to be grown under glass in tubs or pots. 

As regards the arrangement, it is preferable to keep each kind together as 
much as possible, since they will not all bloom at the same time. Pears, Plums 
and Apples, when in bloom, need a dry, bracing atmosphere, or it will be diffi- 
cult to dry up the pollen. If we have a good, bright sun during this period, 
there is little cause for worry, as then the pollen will distribute itself freely and 
a good set will be almost assured. But if we are unfortunate enough to get a 
damp, cloudy spell at this time, it is best to keep on some air, with more fire heat 
if necessary. Pears and Plums will absolutely refuse to set in a close, humid 
atmosphere. 

In ordering trees for the orchardhouse, it is best to decide beforehand 
what style of tree is to be preferred, whether bush, half standard or pyramid. 
Half standards are excellent for Peaches and Nectarines; but taking all things 
into consideration, I decidedly prefer to have most of the trees in pyramid form. 
Trees in this shape certainly give a house a more finished appearance. A pyramid 
Pear or Plum tree in full flower is a handsome sight. There is no bare stem, but 
a fully furnished tree from the tub up. 

It is important to note here that the best stock obtainable should be pro- 
cured. Get good, tiirifty, young trees. This class of trees, as it comes from 
the nursery, requires about ii-inch or 12-inch pots for the first season. One 
of the most serious blunders that we can commit is overpotting. Trees can be 
kept in much better health by confining them to comparatively small tubs. 
This holds particularly good after we have had the tree for some years. With 



POT FRUIT CULTURE AND ITS ADVANTAGES 129 

systematic feeding a 20-inch tub can support a large tree. While the trees 
should be repotted every year, they do not therefore require a larger shift each 
time; they can often go back into the same size pots if the ball is reduced some- 
what. This may seem a waste of labor, but if a tree which is kept for ten or 
fifteen years is given a larger shift each time, the tub would soon be an ungainly 
one, and the tree would not thrive so well as when the ball is reduced somewhat 
each time it is repotted. By all means repot once a year. The new soil around 
the roots seems to give the tree a new lease of hfe, for the enormous quantity of 
water required during the growing season naturally exhausts the soil. 

I need hardly dwell on the fact that this kind of fruit needs close attention. 
Any neglect or any carelessness as to watering or feeding will soon become appar- 
ent, but if proper care is given to the trees, they will yield a rich harvest. If 
the orchardhouse is the only house on the place, fruit may be gathered for at 
least ten weeks, if there has been a proper selection of varieties. When the 
Peaches and Nectarines are over, then come the Plums and Pears. 

As to the expense, a good-sized house may be stocked for a nominal sum. 
There is, moreover, no border to be prepared, for the tub fruit may be grown in 
any decent house, and with care and judgment a good crop is assured each year. 
Many of our best fruit growers are beginning to reahze the advantages of pot 
fruit culture, and this branch of our profession is growing apace. A large number 
of private estabhshments today have their collections of pot fruit, and 
the popularity of fruit thus produced will increase as its requirements become 
better understood by our growers. The grower who follows closely the lines 
laid down in this book will surely be rewarded by good crops. 

As to the fruit that can be grown successfully in the orchardhouse. Plums 
and Apples may be removed into a somewhat cooler house when the fruit is 
fully grown and commencing to color, or be taken even outside, if protection is 
provided against destruction by birds; they will finish up to perfection, especi- 
ally Apples, which acquire a more intense color, the finishing touch so 
desirable before we can pronounce the fruit perfect in every detail. 



HOUSE SUITABLE FOR POT FRUIT 

While the success or failure of pot fruit depends to a great extent on its 
cultural treatment, yet the style of house and its construction should be care- 
fully considered. Good pot fruit maj^ be produced in almost any glass structure, 
if the house is light and in a position where the trees receive the full benefit of 
the sun. Orchardhouse fruit is impatient of any dry atmosphere, therefore do 
not use much cement for unnecessary walks. The plainer and more simple the 
interior construction is, the better it is for the health and vigor of the trees. No 
benches are needed. The best flooring for setting the trees on is the natural 
border. If the soil is inclined to be soft, give it a good coat of coal ashes, or 
any other material that will hold moisture. This will give to the border a neat 
and clean appearance. One walk in a house of this kind is sufficient. Bear in 
mind that the orchardhouse is for the sole purpose of producing high-class 



130 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



fruit, and the interior should therefore be as plain as possible and free from orna- 
mental worl: or unnecessary masonry. A cement floor gives a neat appear- 
ance to a house, but it keeps out the natural moisture, which no amount of 
sprinkhng can suppU'. Tiie fruit produced under these conditions will not be 



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satisfactory, either in size or flavor. I emphasize this seemingly small matter 
of the flooring for the border, for much depends upon the natural evaporation 
from the border, as regards the size and flavor of the fruit. It is the close atten- 
tion to details which makes for success, here as elsewhere. 



POT FRUIT CULTURE AND ITS ADVANTAGES 131 

The trees may be arranged along the border to suit the grower's individual 
fancy, so long as they are not overcrowded. We cannot expect the best results 
if the trees stand too close together. Each tree must be clear of its neighbor, 
so that both the foliage and the fruit may get the full benefit of the light and 
sun. The size of the house will depend upon the demand made upon it, and it 
may run east and west or north and south, according to the location at command, 
though it would be preferable to have it run north and south, for this would 
give all the trees a more equal sunlight. An even span roof house is better than 
any other shape. It may vary from twenty to thirty feet in width, while 
the length will correspond to the number of trees to be grown. Set the 
trees about four or five feet apart. Although this may look a bit thin for the 
first season, the house will be furnished nicely the second year. 

One of the main points to be considered in building a structure of this kind 
is head room. While a low built house may seem ample for the young stock, 
yet it will hardly do for the trees as they increase in size from year to j'ear. 
There should be head room enough along the sides to accommodate trees six 
feet high, or in other words, have five or six feet from the border to the eaves. 

Ventilation is of vital importance and it should be plentifully provided for, 
both at the top and bottom on each side. During our extremely hot spells all 
the ventilation procurable can be used to good advantage. Plenty of fresh air 
as the fruit is ripening will be found to improve the flavor, which is all-important. 
I think I have made it plain that the best house for orchard fruit is just a simple 
house without any frills. 

For the heat it is not necessary to lay in a large system of pipes, as this 
fruit does not require any extreme temperatures. In fact, too much artificial 
heat is decidedly injurious, especially in a mixed house, such as those contain- 
ing Pears, Plums, Apples, etc. Furthermore, where all the different kinds are 
grown together, I am not in favor of starting the trees until the middle of Jan- 
uary. Not that it is impossible to do so, but I have found that success is almost 
assured if they are started after the turn of the season, whereas if done before 
that we are taking chances with fruit like Pears and Plums, whose setting qual- 
ities are decidedly more uncertain in the short days than those of Peaches and 
Nectarines. As to the amount of pipes, or the heating capacity of such a house, 
there should be enough heat at command to hold the temperature at 50° even 
in very cold weather, a temperature that would be sufficient artificially. I 
indicate here the requirements merely in a general way, leaving all the details 
of construction to the greenhouse builders, who thoroughly understand their 
business. While the style of house 'may seem of small importance to the super- 
ficial observer, yet experience has taught us that if we want to carry on this 
work successfully year after year and have our trees always in full vigor, we 
must have our house in agreement with their needs. The ideal house is one 
that will give off' an abundance of moisture, but any house that gives off a dry 
atmosphere is not a first class orchardhouse and will not produce the best results. 



132 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CHAPTER XX 



POT FRUIT— CULTURAL DIRECTIONS AND FEEDING 

POT fruit may be started into growth any time from tiic ist of January 
to tiie 1st of March, according to the demands for ripe fruit. If the 
earliest varieties are to be gathered about the middle of May, then the 
house must be closed up January ist. Bear in mind that the fruit must be 
brought along gradually, in order to get the best results. In private establish- 
ments, where there is other fruit to depend upon, it is better to bring on the 
pot fruit a trifle later in the season; but this all depends on circumstances. Pot 
fruit, when well grown, is a pleasure to look upon, but if neglected in any way, 
it is a miserable failure. It naturally needs closer attention than trees planted 
out in the border. If the orchardhouse receives good care as to watering, feeding 
and all the other necessary details, it will more than repay for the extra labor 
bestowed upon it. One can easily get enthusiastic over pot fruit in good con- 
dition. It is therefore to the grower's advantage to keep his trees in good health, 
which is the main secret of success in this line. Any one who undertakes the 
culture of pot fruit must have a love for his calling. Such a man will make a 
success of it, even if his experience be limited, and as the years go by and he 
gets more fully acquainted with his trees and their requirements, they become 
as companions to him. This work is indeed intensely interesting from start 
to finish — watching the tree from the development of the blossoms to the ma- 
turity of the fruit. 

I have heard it said more than once, that pot fruit is not as fine as that 
grown in the border, and that the flavor is not quite so rich. Where such is 
the case, the pot fruit is not receiving proper care. If the fruit is checked in 
any way it will inevitably show. For instance, if the trees are allowed to suffer 
for want of moisture at the roots two or three times while the fruit is developing, 
or if too much water is given, the reaction from either will be sufficient to pro- 
duce inferior fruit. Such occurrences are apt to give the pot fruit a bad name 
unjustly. But I can say, unhesitatingly, that the flavor of pot fruit properly 
grown is all that could be desired, and equal to that of fruit produced in any 
other way. 

The first thing to be taken into account for pot fruit is the temperature. 
When starting fruit any time from the first to the middle of January, a night 
temperature of 40 is needed for the first week, increasing the day temperature 
10 or 15 , according to the weather conditions. As the buds begin to swell, 
gradually increase, both night and day, and as the trees are coming into bloom. 



POT FRUIT CULTURE AND ITS ADVANTAGES 133 

50° by night with a rise of 10° or 15° by day will be agreeable. The main object 
is to get as nearly as possible to Nature's temperatures. As the fruit advances, 
the heat may also be increased, until ^^° or 60° by night may be maintained, 
increasing that of the day accordingly. This is sufficient for the artificial heat. 
As soon as the outside thermometer registers above 60 , never close the ven- 
tilators down tight. It is much better to leave a couple of inches of air on. 
Then as the Summer temperature increases, or when the thermometer no longer 
falls below 65° at night outside, considerable ventilation can be kept on, for 
orchardhouse fruit defights in an abundance of fresh air, provided that the tem- 
perature does not fluctuate too much. Herein Hes the secret of success in pro- 
ducing perfectly developed fruit. We have in our hands the means of keeping 
a fairly even temperature. The house, though covered with glass, will never 
become too hot, if there is plenty of ventilation, even in extremely hot weather. 
The great advantage of having this fruit under glass is that it is protected against 
severe storms, and when a cold spell comes along, as happens occasionally 
even during the Summer months, the ventilation may be reduced some, which 
will counteract the outside conditions. By thus regulating the temperature we 
can produce fruit in the orchardhouse which is far superior to that grown out- 
side. But grow your pot fruit in a close, humid atmosphere, and you will pro- 
duce a poor quality, with thin and puny foliage, ready to catch the first disease 
that comes along. While I am a great believer in plenty of fresh air, I do not 
wish to be misunderstood on this important point. It would be a serious mis- 
take to admit fresh air regardless of the temperature. There is nothing worse 
for the trees than a cold, cutting wind. Keep as even a temperature as possible, 
and avoid, above all, too much coddling. Then you will get fine flavor and 
excellent color. 

As to watering, I have always found that a man proficient in the art of 
watering is a most valuable help in greenhouse work. No matter how care- 
fully the potting material has been selected, or the potting may have been done, 
careless watering will ruin the best of preliminary work. This holds good 
especially as regards pot fruit. If a plant is watered to the extent of souring 
the soil, the injurious eff'ect is difficult to remedy. The best plan to follow in 
watering a tree is, give a thorough watering so as to penetrate through every 
particle of the soil in the tub or pot, then no more until necessary. It is im- 
possible to give definite rules here, as some soils dry out much faster than others. 
The experienced grower knows the importance of proper watering, which re- 
quires thought and good judgment. Fruit trees will take a liberal supply of 
water when in full or active growth; but be careful when first starting up the 
trees, for at that stage the roots are practically dormant and too much water 
will injure them. There is no foliage to draw the surplus moisture, nor is there 
much root action. When first turning on the heat, it would be well to give 
the trees one good watering and then no more until absolutely necessary, or 
in other words, keep them on the dry side until growth begins and the root 
action is more lively. Increase the amount of water as the growth and the 
foliage increase, but never sour the soil. Overwatering will cause the roots 
to decay, and you will have a sickly lot of trees. 



134 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

Plant life finds its best expression through the foliage. The surface of the 
tui) is apt to mislead, for it may often look dry on the surface while there is 
plenty of moisture underneath. Therefore, so long as the foliage stands out, 
bold and full of sap, we can rest assured that the tree is not suffering for want 
of moisture at the roots. But do not under any circumstances allow the foliage 
to wilt for lack of water. The grower who watches and studies the foliage 
carefully can judge pretty clearly as to the requirements of his plants. 

The trees should be sprayed two or three times a day in bright weather, 
from the time they are started until they commence to bloom. Then hold off 
until the fruit is set. On very bright days the house may be damped down 
about mid-day; around the Pears and Plums the border should be kept a bit 
drier, for the pollen of these does not dry so quickly as that of the Peach and 
Nectarine. After the fruit is set the spraying should be resumed, both morning 
and evening in very bright weather, while in damp, muggy weather the trees 
are better without it. Also keep the border damped down at least once a day, 
for a moist atmosphere is beneficial to both trees and fruit when the latter is 
in full growth. Spraying can be dispensed with as the fruit commences to 
ripen. Keep the variety that is ripening a little drier at the roots; this will 
enhance the flavor, provided that it is not carried too far, for, as I have said, 
ne\-er allow the tree to get so dry that the foliage will flag. 

The mode of fertilizing the blossoms depends on the time when our trees 
come into bloom. Bees are among the very best distributors of pollen. They 
are welcome visitors to the orchardhouse in bloom; industriously going from 
flower to flower, they pollenate each and every one perfectly. If the trees come 
into flower before the bees leave their Winter quarters, then artificial means 
must be resorted to, or hand-fertilization, which is a simple operation. The 
pollen must be perfectly dry, and this may be easily ascertained before going 
over the bloom. When dry, it can be readily seen flying in all directions. As 
the pollen gets ripe, so that it will distribute easily, apply it either with a camel's 
hair brush or with a rabbit's tail tied to a stick. • I prefer the latter. Go over 
the blooms once at mid-day from the time the first lot of flowers are ready until 
they are all set. Just brush the blooms lightly. If the pollen is in good con- 
dition, the brush will be loaded with it in a short time, and under these con- 
ditions the set will be perfect. Where Nature has free sway, she provides the 
different kinds of insects for this important work, but in producing fruit out of 
their natural season, artificial pollenization must be resorted to. When one 
gets familiar witii the work, the trees may be gone over in a short time. 

Feeding is another point where the grower may show his skill. The benefit 
of systematic feeding is very pronounced in pot fruit. The amount of feeding 
that these trees will profitably take is surprising, when it is increased gradu- 
ally. The novice in fruit culture must study this important question long and 
attentivelj' before he can hope to excel with pot fruit. I could write a whole 
book on the subject of feeding alone. It is easy enough to lay down the main 
principles and the benefits to be deri\ed from the different foods, but much 
depends on circumstances and individual conditions. A healthy, \igorous 
tree can absorb more food to good ad\antage than a weakly growing one. There- 




Pear Princess 

This Pear is a seedling from the old, well-known variety, Louise Bonne of Jersey, 
but larger and finer in every respect 



136 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

fore, it is not wise to dictate as to the amount of feeding tiiat shall or shall not be 
done through the season of activity, in order to get the best results. All I 
can say here is: keep a close watch on >our trees after feeding, both as to the 
roots and the foliage, which are two of the principal life organs of the plant. 
If we find roots coming to the surface soon after feeding, it is a sure sign that 
it is agreeable and the tree is receiving sustenance. 

I think it a weakness of most writers on this interesting question that they 
present the bright side, only dwelling on the benefits to be derived from the 
food. Of course it is more pleasant to record our successes than our failures. 
Still, if we look back over the years we have spent in cultivating plants, we 
cannot close our eyes to the serious errors we may have committed through 
over-feeding. I admit that I have been at fault here more than once, but I 
have profited by what I have learned thereby, although it has often caused 
me worry and annoyance. Defeat is a bitter pill, while success tastes sweet. 
No young grower should lose heart, even though things do not at first come up 
to his expectations. Whoever loses his grit is doomed to go down; the man who 
is determined to profit by his mistakes will come out victorious in the end. 

Mistakes along these lines first turned my thoughts toward the studj' of 
the foliage. This is a study worthy of the consideration of every grower. The 
foliage is the life, or the lungs of the plant, and if it is not perfect, everything 
is lost. If we are carrying a heavy crop of fruit and the foliage goes wrong 
before the fruit is fully developed or ripe, it will be a miserable failure. We 
may be told that all foliage is green and looks alike. Study it closely and you 
will find out the difference. As the mother of a family need only look at her 
child in order to know whether it is well or ill, so the good florist and gardener 
can judge his plants by their appearance. But the grower must love his plants 
as a mother loves her child. We must keep our foliage full of sap and leather}' 
to the touch, full of substance, with the veins standing out pronounced. Such 
foliage will help to produce good fruit of superior flavor. 

By way of preface to a brief explanation of systematic feeding, I may say 
that it is far better not to feed at all than to over-feed. Feed to the limit and 
no more. I do not advocate strong feeding at one time, but prefer it light 
and often. There is not so much danger in light feeding, and more can be 
administered to good advantage during the season in this way. I also advise 
an occasional change of food. The main point in bringing a crop to a successful 
issue is to keep the joots active. Surface dressing, applied about everj' ten 
days or two weeks, seems to give a new lease of life to the roots, for the feeding 
roots will absorb it within a few days. For this top dressing I have obtained 
the best results with Thomson's manure and Ichthemic guano, used alternatelj-. 
Mix it in the proportion of eight or ten parts of soil to one of manure, and put 
a light dressing on the surface of each pot or tub, a couple of handfuls to a 15-inch 
tub. Apply this every ten days or two weeks if your trees are in a healthy 
condition. 

Watering with manure water three or four times during the season is good. 
The drainage from the farm barn is excellent for this purpose, weakened down 
with clear water. I find occasionally that the foliage turns a bit yellow, or loses 



POT FRUIT CULTURE AND ITS ADVANTAGES 



137 



the green color so much desired, especially early in the season of growth. Bon 
Arbor will rectify this evil, used according to directions. A certain amount 
of lime and potash is essential to all stone fruit, but as the make-up of different 
soils varies considerably, it would not be advisable on my part to prescribe 
any given quantity. It is enough for me to say that they are necessary and 
should be applied in some form. If lime is needed, the best way to use it is 
in the potting compost. Wood ashes maj' also be used in the same manner. 
With a regular system of feeding, a large tree may be grown in a comparatively 
small tub, with results in favor of this method. 

I have said that orchardhouse fruit dehghts in an abundance of fresh air; 
but it should not be admitted in a haphazard way, especially during February and 
March and at times far into April. If a cold, cutting wind is blowing from the 
east, open the ventilators on the west side, if needed, or on the opposite side, 
as the case may be. The main object in view is to avoid cold, cutting winds 
while admitting air whenever the conditions call for it, and particularly so 
when the trees are in bloom, as too much coddhng at this stage endangers the 
desired set. Keep a circulation of air on whenever the thermometer registers 
above 60°, and as the hot weather sets in, admit all the air possible, both top 
and bottom, closing the bottom ventilators at night, but leaving the top ones 
on, or just bringing them down enough to shed the rain in case of storm. 



i3« FRUITS AND VI-GETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CHAPTER XXI 



POT FRUIT— PINCHING THE SHOOT— THINNING THE FRUIT 

IN growing pot fruit it is well to bear in mind that it entails i)ut a trifle more 
iaiDor to maintain a weii-iiaianced, shapely tree. This may be secured 

largely b>- systematic pinching during the season of growth. While it 
is not necessary to pinch to the extreme, there should be no crowding of shoots. 
Have each shoot free and easj', so that the sun may get a chance to penetrate 
through the branches. The tree will then produce far superior wood, which means 
finer fruit. When the trees start into growth, there are often many more shoots 
than are necessary to furnish the tree. In such case some disbudding may be 
done; or, better still, pinch back to two or three leaves, with the object of forming 
fruit spurs for the following season. Every fruit man of experience knows the 
value of a tree well supplied with fruit spurs, for this means a plentiful supply 
of fruit, generally of good quality. 

Pot fruit may usually be had in two or three forms — bush, half standard 
and pyramid. The two former call for the same treatment as regards pinching. 
The only difference between them is, that the half standard has a foot or eighteen 
inches more of clear stem than what is termed the bush form. Peaches, Nec- 
tarines, Cherries and Apricots do admirably as bush and half standard; while 
Pears, Apples, and Plums are best as pyramids. Peaches and Nectarines make 
handsome trees in pyramid form. Bush and half standard should be pinched 
back when the new shoot has reached five or six inches; some of the shoots will 
need pinching before others, for a well-balanced tree. The vigor of the tree 
will determine as to how many times it is to be pinched during the season. Some- 
times certain shoots will be found to take the lead or will grow much stronger 
than others; these must be kept pinched back or be cut away altogether. If 
all the shoots break away again, as they undoubtedly will, pinch again at five 
or six inches, and if the branches crowd too much, thin away some of the useless 
growths. By pinching in this manner, there will be no serious trouble with 
lateral growths. 

Pyramids require somewhat closer attention than the bush forms to keep 
them in proper shape. The growth of pyramids will generally commence on 
the top; therefore, the most advanced shoots should be pinched first. In any 
case, pinch the bottom shoots last, as the strength is more apt to leave the bottom 
branches in preference for the shoots higher up, so the bottom growth must be 
encouraged rather than pinched too freely. Attention should also be paid to the 



POT FRUIT CULTURE AND ITS ADVANTAGES 139 

center shoot. Keep the main center growth erect each year, otherwise it will 
be impossible to secure a well-balanced tree. It is not necessary to pinch pyra- 
mids very severely — at about the third or fourth leaf. Then, as the growth 
advances, pinch again as recommended for the first pinching. If the trees are 
growing satisfactorily, pyramids will need pinching about three times during their 
season of growth, with the exception of the weaker shoots. The pinching may 
be discontinued toward the later part of the season, as there is then danger of 
exciting the back dormant eyes. It is also advisable to have one stake to each 
pyramid, so as to secure an erect growth, and give the tree a neat appearance. 

If these instructions are followed, the trees may be kept in a fairly evenly- 
balanced form, with the exception of Cherries, Apricots and Figs, which have 
a tendency to be a bit ungainly. Cherries, in particular, will produce a few 
strong shoots, while the rest of the growth forms into spurs or clusters of fruit 
buds. The strong shoots must be pinched a few times during the season, but 
do not pinch Cherries too severely. Apricots should be pinched about every 
fifth leaf, to prevent them from occupying more space than they are entitled 
to. I do not recommend the Apricot highly for pot work, though it may find 
a. place in the orchardhouse where a variety of fruit is desired. 

The same applies to the Apple, which makes a handsome showing in the 
pot, and extra large fruit may be obtained in this way, but our open air cli- 
mate is so favorable for its perfect development that I should recommend it for 
the orchardhouse more as a curiosity than otherwise. Some years ago I had 
some twenty or thirty varieties of Apples under glass. The crop was an excel- 
lent one and the size also was good, but for flavor and quality I would just as 
soon have an Apple from the open orchard. Apples grown in pots are very 
ornamental and excel most other fruits for appearance. 

Figs can be grown successfully in pots, but they are handled best in a com- 
partment by themselves, for the Fig will produce two crops of fruit during the 
season and when the first crop is gathered the second will be improved by keeping 
in a closer atmosphere until they commence to ripen. I shall take up the cul- 
ture of the Fig later. 

THINNING THE FRUIT 

Pot fruit is, as a riile, well supplied with fruit buds. Considerable thinning, 
must generally be done, for the trees should not be allowed to carry more than 
an average crop each year. For the first season, if the nursery stock is of the 
best and well supplied with fruit buds, and large enough for 11 -inch or 12-inch 
pots. Peaches or Nectarines may carry ten or twelve fruits each; this depends 
on the variety, for some allowance should be made for an extra large growing 
variety. 

Plums usually set their fruit very freely, if a fairly dry, bracing atmosphere 
has been maintained during their period of blooming. This means that consider- 
able thinning will have to be done, as the plum will not attain to the highest 
perfection when overcropped. Only dessert or table Plums should be selected 
for this purpose, and therefore quality should be considered rather than quan- 



■ 40 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GlJ>iSS 




Plum Denniston Superb 

This represents the top of a Plum tree grown in a tub, which has carried a heavy crop annually for 
ten years, and, as the picture shows plainly, is still healthy and full of vigor 



POT FRUIT CULTURE AND ITS ADVANTAGES 141 

tity. A good, thrifty Plum tree should bear the first year from thirty to forty 
fruits, according to the variety or size of fruit. 

Apples and Pears may bear the first season from six to twelve fruits, accord- 
ing to the variety. Kinds like Souv. de Congress or Pitmaston Duchess Pear 
may carry five or six. More fruit may be left on each year as the trees increase 
in size. A Peach or a Nectarine which has developed normally for five or six 
years should be capable of carrying a crop of fifty fruits or more. 

The thinning of the fruit should be done by degrees. This applies par- 
ticularly to Pears, for these have at times a habit of dropping their fruit, until 
they pass a certain stage, or the fruit is a httle larger than the thumb; after 
that there is less danger. Peaches and Nectarines may receive their final thin- 
ning when the fruit is about the size of a Walnut. Some writers advocate 
leaving on a surplus until they have passed their period of stoning, and it is 
probably well to do so where there is any difficulty with fruit dropping while 
stoning. But I think that when the wood is thoroughly ripened in the Fall 
and the trees are subjected to the due amount of frost, they are not very likely 
to drop their fruit while stoning. If this surplus fruit is allowed to stay on 
the tree until the stoning is completed, the tree is taxed unnecessarily, or at 
the expense of the average crop, for after the stoning is completed, it does not 
require much more strain to ripen the fruit. It is well to understand the nature 
of orchardhouse fruit. 

As I have already explained the method of gathering Peaches and Nec- 
tarines, in the section on Peaches and Nectarines under glass, I will refer the 
reader to those pages. 

The Pear is perhaps the most exacting of all fruit. If gathered too soon, 
it will shrivel and be useless, and if left too long on the tree, it will become over- 
ripe. A Bartlett or a Madame Treyve, or any Pear of that nature, if gathered 
in proper season, is firm, rich and juicy, but loses its flavor if allowed to hang 
too long, becoming soft and almost disagreeable. When the fruit separates 
readily when lifted to a horizontal position, or the stalk leaves the wood spur 
without any pulling, it is a fairly sure indication that it is in the best possible 
condition for picking. If the fruit is then kept for a week or ten days in a cool 
dark room, or until it has turned to a golden yellow, it will be firm, rich and 
juicy. If allowed to stay on the tree until over-ripe, it will be decidedly flat 
and mushy. 

Plums, on the contrary, may be allowed to hang until they come off with 
the slightest touch, retaining their full, rich flavor. Varieties like The Czar, 
Mallard or Denniston Superb, Golden Esperen and many others are ideal for 
table use, and when highly finished are eagerly sought after as a dessert luxury. 
They surpass in richness of flavor any Plums that are grown in the open field 
or garden. 



142 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CHAPTER XXII 



POT FRUIT— TROUBLESOME DISEASES AND INSECT PESTS 

ONE of the best preventives against fungous growths and noxious pests 
is a clean start. The very best time for house cleaning is when the 
trees are dormant. They may then be cleaned in short order by 
fumigating with hydrocyanic acid gas, if the grower understands how to use 
it, but in careless hands this may cause considerable damage. I have described 
the method of handling it in another chapter, to which I refer the reader. The 
trees may also be washed down where time is no object, and here also it should 
be noted that it is not safe to use a very strong wash on the fruit-bearing wood 
of Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, etc. The safest way is to wash all the wood 
except the fruiting wood, as the fruit buds are very easily damaged. This 
may not be noticed until the trees have started growth, when the injured fruit 
buds will drop instead of developing. 

A solution of whale oil soap makes a very good wash, using enough soap 
to cause a lather, provided the same strength is not used on the fruit buds. 
Gishurst's compound also makes a good wash. 

With a clean start half the battle toward having clean fruit trees during 
their season of growth is accomplished — that is, with good treatment — but 
carelessness in the matter of temperature or checks of any kind will invite the 
spread of insect pests and diseases. Insects, as a rule, will not attack a strong, 
vigorous tree half as readily as they will a weak one, and the same may be said 
of fungous diseases. Any pot tree that shows signs of weakness or deterioration 
should be discarded, regardless of age; it is only occupying valuable room to no 
purpose, and will cause no end of trouble. Two or three sickly trees among 
fiftj' healthy ones will show up more prominently than all the others put to- 
gether, thus detracting from the appearance of the house. 

Green fly undoubtedly causes more trouble among pot trees than it does 
when it attacks trees planted in the border, that is, when they are in blossom 
and before the fruit is set. With free use of the syringe, there is no excuse 
for green fly. An\one who has handled pot fruit knows what havoc green fly 
may make within a few days. It spreads rapidly and the damage which it can 
accomplish within a short time is almost incredible. It is much better to fumi- 
gate the house, in order to eradicate the pest, than to spray the trees too se\erely; 
and smoking the house a few nights in succession is better than too strong an 
application at one time. 



POT FRUIT CULTURE AND ITS ADVANTAGES 



143 




Pear Mme. Treyve 

^I'o&f nroH,,'.?''*'''"'' 'Al'°,? °^ ^ '"'' Ppr ^■''^'^ "°PP^d ^"""^"y fo^ '^■^ven years. It 
shows the productiveness of the Pear trees and their adaptability for growing in pots or tubs. 



144 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

Diflercnt materials may be used for fumigation with good effect. Years 
ago the old reUaJjle remedy was tobacco stems, l^ut witii the great ad\'ance that 
has been made in the greeniiousc industry within the last twentN-five years we 
have more modern insecticides with whicii to fight insect pests. Our tlianks 
are due to tiic manufacturers for putting the various nicotines and formulas 
upon the market in a condensed form, which simplifies our labors, and makes 
them more elfcctiNe. Each grower prefers his own particular brand of insecti- 
cide. As the old saying goes, " There are no two alike." If we all were of the 
same mind, trade would soon tall away. If you have found an insecticide that 
means death to the insect with no harm to the tree, hold on to it, until you are 
fully satisfied that you have found something better. 

Manufacturers of insecticides and fungicides have kept pace with the 
greenhouse builders and the growers, so that we now have an excellent assort- 
ment of these remedies. An effective insecticide or fumigant around the green- 
house is the best friend of the gardener or florist. Nico-fume, tobacco paper 
and aphis punk are excellent for eradicating both green fly and black fly. Nicoti- 
cide and XL. All fumigating liquid may also be used with excellent results. 
Full instructions for using the different brands are gi\en with each. It is well, 
howe\er, to be cautious in using a new insect eradicator until thoroughly ac- 
quainted with its \irtues. It is an easy matter to increase the strength grad- 
ually, until the desired results are obtained. An overdose is injurious to plant 
life. It is important, also, to select a suitable evening for fumigating. It should 
be a calm, quiet night, for two reasons: The smoke will stay in the house 
longer, and it will distribute itself more evenly over the whole interior. Above 
all things, avoid fumigating too strongly. 

The spread of red spider depends chiefly upon the man employed in syring- 
ing the trees. It is not so much a question of the quantity of water used, as 
of the way in which it is done. I am opposed to \ery hea^■y spraying. The 
main point in fighting this pest is to spray underneath the foliage effectively, 
which any man can do who is mterested in his work. A check in any way — 
lack of moisture at the roots, or any other neglect — will induce the spread of 
red spider, thrips and other troubles. The best policy here is to adopt measures 
that will prevent their appearance, but if they do come, in spite of all precau- 
tions, then eradicate them as quickly as possible, which can be done by effective 
spraying, pro\ided there is a good force of water. 

Leaf roller is a very destructive little insect, which is more trouble- 
some among Pears, Plums, Apricots, Cherries and Apples than among 
any other fruit. It is more noticeable in some seasons than in others, and if 
allowed full sway it will do considerable damage. It usually appears just as 
the young foliage begins to unfold, at a stage when we cannot fumigate or spray 
because the trees are in blossom. It is easy to detect on the tender foliage, 
and may often be found among the fruit blossoms, busily eating off the pistils, 
thereby destroying both bloom and fruit. Nearly all of these noxious pests 
have a clever way of protecting themselves; though diminutive in body, 
they are strong enough to roll up the leaf, with the help of their web, hiding 
inside, as a protection against harm. Or, they will fasten two leaves together 



POT FRUIT CULTURE AND ITS ADVANTAGES 145 

with their fine web and hide between them. It is extremely interesting to watch 
this insect and its marvelous modes of protection, but for all its ingenuity we 
are compelled to fight it if we want to preserve our crops. The amount of damage 
the leaf roller can do in its short span of hfe is enormous. The only remedy 
that I can suggest is to hand-pick the insects from the leaf or the blossom before 
they make much headway. To my mind there is nothing more unsightly than 
injured fohage, aside from the fact that it prevents the development of perfect 
fruit. 

Mildew must also be guarded against. It will spread rapidly under certain 
atmospheric conditions, such as sudden changes in temperature, or too close 
an atmosphere, or in other words, coddhng. Some sections of the country are 
more subject to mildew than others. Trees that have once been attacked by 
mildew are more readily infected a second time; but it is as easy to check the 
spread of mildew in the orchardhouse as in the peach-house, by proper attention 
to airing. If there is a sudden change in the temperature, even during the 
Summer months, reduce the air somewhat; and be careful not to syringe the 
trees in very cloudy or damp weather. A hght dusting of the infected tree with 
powdered sulphur will also check mildew. 

Borers will attack all the fruit trees except Pears, which they do not seem 
to trouble much. Neither will they make the same headway with Plums as 
with Peaches and Nectarines. They must be fought as soon as detected. 
Their burrows must be opened up with a knife. Sometimes they are difficult 
to get at; in this case use a piece of wire and probe down until you strike them, 
for it is a question of killing the borer or the borer killing the tree. 



146 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CHAPTER XXIII 



POT FRUIT— TREATMENT OF TREES AFTER THE FRUIT IS 

GATHERED 

AFTER the crop is gathered, pot fruit should receive the same treatment 
as all other trees. Give them all the care possiijie in the way of water- 
ing, spraying and even a light feeding once in a while. This will build 
up the wood and bring the buds to the highest state of perfection. If these 
trees are treated carelessly in any way, they cannot be expected to yield a rich 
crop the following season. They may be placed outdoors, preferably in a shel- 
tered location, where they receive the full benefit of the sun. A position near 
the greenhouse will be found to be convenient for the man in charge; then the 
trees will be more likely to receive their due share of attention. Trees in tubs 
require enormous quantities of water in their growing season. This exhausts 
the soil, even though heavy feeding has been done throughout the Summer 
months; therefore, repotting or retubbing should be done once a year, the best 
time for this operation being the Fall, just as the fruit buds are fully developed, 
or the foliage is taking on its Autumn cast. It is not necessary to wait until 
the trees are bare of leaves. I prefer, in fact, to retub before they have lost 
all their foliage. Early forced trees are ready for retubbing before late fruit, 
although there may be only a difference of ten days or so. The trees are usually 
in good shape for repotting from the middle to the end of October. Then, 
again, the soil in the tubs should be considered with regard to moisture; it 
should be in such a condition that everything worlcs' freely when reducing the 
ball. On no account retub the trees when the ball is very wet; neither should 
it be too dry; always try to strike the happy medium. As every ball must be 
reduced some, it will be much more easily done if the soil is iust right, and the 
roots will benefit in ha\ing the soil friable. The amount of the reduction must 
be left to the grower's judgment, but it is a serious mistake to over-pot. For a 
Peach or Nectarine that has been bearing fruit for eight or ten years a tub fifteen 
or sixteen inches in diameter inside measurement should be sufficient; by this 
may be figured the reduction necessary if the trees are repotted once a year. 
The roots will more readily take hold of the new potting material after being 
reduced. Loosen out all the roots around the ball and shorten back with a 
sharp knife any coarse stragglers. A clean cut will callus over readily, whereas 
a rough cut may cause decay. The fibrous roots are the main support and 
these should be taken care of. The best wav to reduce the ball is to use an iron 



POTiiFRUIT CULTURE AND ITS ADVANTAGES 



147 



prong one-quarter to one-half an inch in diameter, with the end a bit pointed. 
With this an inch or so of the old soil may be removed without breaking the 
roots, leaving a network of fibrous roots around the ball in condition to work 
their way into the potting material after repotting. 

Fruit trees may be seen growing luxuriantly in the open field or orchard, 
producing an abundance of fruit in an apparently sandy soil, particularly Peaches 
and Nectarines. But to use a sandy soil for fruit in the orchardhouse, where 
the trees are confined to small root space, is the first step toward inviting failure. 




:ii^5ii'>5a:gKsssy:tfiL^ 



Plum Denniston Superb 
An excellent variety for table use. A week or ten days earlier than Green Gage 

Nor would it be well to go to the other extreme and use a heavy clay soil. While 
it may be impossible to secure in every instance just the right kind of soil, the 
best obtainable should be used for the purpose. The ideal soil is a good, rich, 
fibrous loam, such as has been laid down in pastures for some years — soil with 
good body to it, but not of a sticky, clayey nature. 

It is best to prepare the soil three or four months in advance. If the sod 
land is available, it may be plowed or dug three or four inches thick, and if it is 
full of fibre it may be stacked into a compost heap, adding one load of good, 
rich farmyard manure to every three loads of soil. Some writers recommend 
the addition of a small quantity of old mortar, but this is not necessary if soil of 
the proper texture is selected. It is not advisable to depend on the mortar, 



148 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

as there are now clillcrcnt compositions used in plastering. While the sod 
should have bod\' or lasting qualities to it, it must also be of such a nature as 
to allow water to pass tlirougii freeiy. As a guide, I ha\e found that soil which 
will grow Roses and Carnations satisfactorily will also grow orchardhouse fruit. 
A week before retubbing the trees, chop down the compost and turn it over, 
to incorporate the manure thoroughly with the soil. As heavj- rains in the Fall 
may occasionallx Interfere with the work, it is well to put the potting material 
under shelter, adding a fair sprinkling of ground bone and hardwood ashes. 
This will be all that is needed. I am not in fa\or of making the compost over- 
rich, biit prefer to give surface feed when the trees are in active growth. I 
would use the soil in a fairly coarse form, as it then does not sour so easily, and 
the roots will be more li\ely in a coarse compost. 

Drainage is all important. It is not always a question as to how much 
drainage shall be put into the bottom of a tub or pot, but rather how best to 
pre\-ent the fine soil from percolating through. Whether there is one or two 
inches of drainage in the bottom, it should be kept free from fine soil. A thin 
layer of sod will answer the purpose; or a layer of half rotten manure or any 
thing of that kind will stay the soil and prevent the clogging of the drainage. 

In retubbing it is essential to firm the soil thoroughlj' around the roots, 
adding a small quantity at a time to make sure that it is worked e\enly around 
the roots. Above all, guard against too large a shift. I know that it is much 
easier to repot by giving a liberal shift than a moderate one. Deep potting is 
also a serious error; the depth should be sufficient to just cover the surface roots. 
Use a suitable potting stick or rammer about one-half inch thick and two or 
three inches wide, long enough to reach the bottom of the pot. The soil must 
be made as firm at the bottom as at the top. When the potting is done, the 
trees may get one good watering. Let them remain outdoors. I prefer, in 
fact, to leave them out as long as possible, or until severe freezing sets in. 
Ten or fifteen degrees of frost will do no harm. It is natural for fruit trees to 
have frost, and a certain amount is beneficial. But in the case of potted trees, 
the pots must be buried in soil to prevent the frost from destroying the pots. 
I have occasionally left the trees outside until the end of December, with the 
result that when they were started every bud came away perfect, with extra 
strong blossoms. In Europe the trees are not allowed much frost; but con- 
ditions are different here. Toward Fall the wood of our trees is extra ripe, so 
that a few degrees of frost will not affect the buds. Try the experiment of 
taking in one half of your trees and leaving the other half outside as recom- 
mended, and I am sure that ever afterward you will allow your trees to get a 
certain amount of freezing. 

The trees will not need much pruning if they have received good atten- 
tion during their season of growth in the way of systematic pinching or thin- 
ning away any crowded branches. Still, there must be some Winter pruning, 
which may be done any time after the wood is ripened. Do not use pruning 
shears on the trees. While much work can be accomplished with them, yet 
the man who takes a genuine pride in his trees will always use the keen-edged 
pruning knife. 



POT FRUIT CULTURE AND ITS ADVANTAGES i49 

Before going into details as to the methods of pruning, it may be well to 
offer a few words on the peculiarities of some varieties. Peaches and Nec- 
tarines in general call for the same treatment in pruning, if the conditions are 
favorable; but at times some kinds are exceedingly shy of wood buds. There- 
fore, we cannot always prune as we would like. One of the principal points 
to remember in pruning is, always prune to a wood bud, making a clean cut 
close to the bud. Do not leave any wood beyond the bud, as any wood left 
will eventually decay. If the cut is made close to the bud the wound will soon 
heal over. Most of the fruit buds of Apples and Pears are produced from spurs, 
therefore both of these trees can be pruned fairly close. 

The aim in pruning is to keep the correct form of the tree, whether it be 
pyramid, bush or half standard. Pears, Apples, Plums, and the freest growing 
Peaches and Nectarines make handsome pyramids; but any kind of Peach that 
is a bit shy in producing wood buds is best as a bush or half standard, as it could 
not be kept in a symmetrical pyramid shape. While pyramids should 
not be pruned back too severely, any projecting shoots should be 
pruned back, and if there are any signs of overcrowding, the poorest 
shoots should be treated, for no good fruit can be expected from a tree that 
is overcrowded with useless wood. The object in a pyramid is to encourage 
growth on the bottom branches as much as possible, and this may be accom- 
plished mainly during the growing season by proper attention to pruning. 

Cherries and Plums are usually plentifully supplied with spur wood, or 
rather fruit-bearing spurs, and as these generally do not produce much surplus 
wood, only the wood that projects need be pruned back, so that both bush 
and half standard may be kept in decent shape. They should be trained into 
as much of a bush form as possible, but the bottom branches, like those of the 
pyramids, should not be pruned too severely; some of the smaller shoots need 
not be pruned at all. If the highest branches show an inclination to rob the 
sap of the lower or weaker ones, shorten them back. Remember this rule for 
obtaining the best results: Never allow too much wood to remain on the trees, 
particularly in the bush and half standard. The sun must be able to penetrate 
through the branches, then there will be tine fruit with excellent color. Apri- 
cots should always be grown in bush or half standard form, and be treated 
accordingly, for they grow a bit ungainly. 




Pear Beurre Hardy 
Beurre Hardy is one of the very best for orchardhouse work. The fruit is large and of excellent 
P*, _,___ flavor, and the tree may be kept in a symmetrical shape with little trouble 



FRUIT ADAPTED FOR ORCHARDHOUSE WORK 151 



CHAPTER XXIV 



VARIETIES OF FRUIT ADAPTED FOR ORCHARDHOUSE WORK 

THE variety of fruit that may be grown in the orchardhouse and the long 
lists to select from must seem bewildering to any not in close touch 
with the work. A proper selection is very important. Nothing but the 
very best should be used for the purpose. It costs no more to produce the 
choicest kinds than the ordinary varieties. A man working among fruit, who 
is a keen observer of plant life, will notice more and more as he progresses the 
many peculiarities of plants. The strangest thing about this fascinating work 
to me is, that the more deeply we go into it, the more our own weak points are 
brought home to us. Gardening is one of the oldest professions in existence, 
and no matter how proficient one may be there is always much more to learn 
about it. To an outsider it may seem strange that one can follow a certain 
line year after year, and after spending a lifetime in the work, be compelled 
to say that there are details which have not yet been thoroughly mastered 
or fully understood. When we notice any improvements we feel as if the road 
ahead was clear, but when reverses come an unfathomable mystery seems to 
hang over our work. Seasons vary. We rarely get two in succession that 
are alike. It is true that we have a glass roof over our trees; but we cannot 
always give them the exact climatic conditions that they want. If there is a 
deficiency of sun when a certain lot of fruit is ripening, they are sure to suffer 
for the lack of it. This is more apparent in a house of Grapes when they are 
starting to color than in orchardhouse fruit. 

It is the same with fruit grown in the field or garden. It is much finer 
in color and size and, above all, in flavor, in some seasons than in others. I do 
not mean to imply that fruit grown under glass will vary to the same extent 
as fruit left for Nature to take care of. Nevertheless, the proper outside climatic 
conditions contribute to our successes, while inclemencies bring failure. I 
dwell on this point, for the grower is often criticised because his fruit is a bit off 
flavor, or less perfect in some way than that of the previous year, although 
he may have given it the best attention, according to his skill and judgment. 
But he should not become discouraged if a crop falls short once in a while. There 
is this to be said in favor of the orchardhouse method of producing fruit, that a 
good crop every year is assured. 

In my list of the fruit best adapted to the orchardhouse work, I shall select 
only the choicest varieties, adding a few words as to the most reliable kinds. 



152 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 




Plum Oullin's Golden 

A very large variety. Requires more tliinning tlian some of the other kinds; otherwise 
the full size will not be obtained, nor will the flavor be so rich 



The Peach and the Nectarine stand out pre-eminent, and get first place, as 
being admiraJDiy adapted for growing in pots or tuijs. If both early and late 
varieties are selected, ripe fruit may be had for several \veel<s, even in one house 
only. Nectarines should find more favor than Peaches, as many of them have 
a distinct flavor. But botii Peaches and Nectarines have a decidedly rich 
flavor when grown in tubs, and give a never-failing crop from year to year, 
which is a recommendation worthy of note. All varieties may be grown in 
tubs, still there are a few that may be a little more difhcult to keep in a sym- 
metrical lorm, on account of their habit. Each kind has its own peculiar char- 
acter. Some varieties will produce wood buds more freely than others, and 
these are the desirable ones, especially if the tree is to be kept in pyramid form. 
It is absolutely necessary here to prune at the wood bud. The Bellegarde, 
for instance, will at times be found shy in wood buds — so much so that the 
terminal growth cannot be shortened. Any tree that shows sparingly in wood 
buds may be grown more successfully in bush form. There are not many that 
exhibit this deficiency, but we have, on the contrary, more than we need. 

Pears come next on our list. They have been culti\ated successfully now for 
many years in the orchardhouse, and their merit is fully recognized. It has, 
in fact, been admitted time and again that Pears are improved to a wonderful 
degree with indoor treatment. Many an exhibition table has been graced 
with noble specimens from the orchardhouse, that for size, perfect shape and 
combination of rich color and finish it would be impossible to produce in out- 
door grown fruit. Tiie habit of the tree is, moreover, ideal for the purpose. 
It makes a splendid pyramid and can be kept in good form with very little work. 
A good average crop can be had from year to year, and the tree will keep in 
a healthy, vigorous condition for a long time. There are quite a number of va- 
rieties that can be recommended for the purpose. Some are much richer in 



FRUIT ADAPTED FOR ORCHARDHOUSE WORK 



153 



flavor than others. Both Beurre Hardy and Conference have a richness of 
flavor that cannot fail to please the lover of Pears. Where a few extra large 
specimens are desired, Pitmaston Duchess and Souv. de Congress will produce 
single fruit weighing from one to one and one-half pounds, if the tree is thinned 
with that object in view. Our orchardhouses are ideal for producing perfect 
specimens, and these pyramid trees loaded with fruit are a pleasing sight to 
look upon. Therefore, I unhesitatingly place the Pear next to the Peach and 
Nectarine for orchardhouse work. With good treatment they will give an 
average crop every year. 

Plums are third in order. While they do not present such an imposing 
sight as the Pear, yet they will enrich the collection and help to make the fruit- 
house more attractive. Plums are a valuable addition as a dessert fruit, both 
as to richness of flavor and handsome appearance. Table Pkims chiefly should 
be grown in the orchardhouse. Allow them to get perfectly ripe before gather- 
ing, and you have a very rich fruit worthy of gracing any table. Plums, how- 
ever, have their peculiarities, which are difficult to explain. In the first place, 
they must be finished to perfection, in order to be rightly appreciated, and 
this means that the tree should not receive any check during the season of ma- 
turity. If Plum trees, just as the fruit begins to ripen, are placed outside, 
with a wire screen as a protection from the birds, they will finish up much more 
satisfactorily than in the house. It is probable that the natural dews at night 
are beneficial to the fruit at that stage of ripening. This may seem a curious 
argument and it may be said that if such is the case, the trees might be left 
outside altogether. To this I reply that the fruit will be much finer if left inside 
until it starts to ripen. I strongly recommend this mode of treatment for a 
good Plum crop, for if they are put outside a sheltered location is necessary. 
It has happened to me more than once that one-half of a crop would ripen on 
a tree of the earliest kind, while the rest would absolutely refuse to soften. But 
if I set them outside at this stage, the difficulty would seem to be overcome. 




Plum Mallard 
The Mallard Plum is a robust grower and is valuable for its earliness and rich qualities 



134 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



I suggest that the skeptical gi\'e this metliod a trial, by taking one half of their 
trees outside and leaving the other half in the house. It will probably not 
take more than a year to convince anyone of the decided benefit to be derived 
from my method. 

There is a splendid variety of material to select from. Oullin's Golden, 
Denniston's Superb, Mallard, and others are a veritable dessert lu.xury. 

Cherries grown in pots or tubs in our climate are more often a failure than 
a success. From my experience I am compelled to place them on the doubtful 
list, because of the uncertainty of their crop. I have experimented considerably 
with them at different times, allowing the trees a certain amount of frost, and 
also testing them by the non-freezing method, in the hope of having assured 




Plum Czar 

A very early purple Plum; tree a free cropper. May be relied on to give good 
satisfaction wFien grown inside 

crops. If they were not a failure, I at least did not have the desired success. 
So taking everything into consideration, I cannot recommend fruit about 
which the uncertainty is so great. While I regret this, I must advise according 
to my experience. The American grower, as a rule, wants to handle varieties 
with which he feels reasonably sure of success. If I could recommend the 
Cherry with the same confidence as the Peach or Nectarine, I would say, by 
all means add Cherries to your list of orchardhouse fruit. The tree itself is 
of excellent constitution, and may be kept in vigorous health for many years, 
and the crop would naturally have advantages over some others, for the early 
Cherries mature ahead of most other fruit. The Cherry tree produces an abun- 
dance of fruit blossoms, but our extremely hot sun occasionally seems too much 
for them, and generally the bulk of the blossoms drop off, or at least fall before 
stoning. If you are anxious to secure a good crop and have enough trees to 
make it worth while, put shades on the house, just heavy enough to break the 
strong rays of the sun, and they may be rolled up when the sun begins to lose 



FRUIT ADAPTED FOR ORCHARDHOUSE WORK 



155 



its strength. This shading will be the most beneficial when the fruit is setting, 
and again when stoning. Do not feed much until the fruit is stoned. 

Apricots have been grown successfully under glass for many years. In 
the open field or garden the trees will bloom when the temperature is compara- 
tively low; therefore success will be more certain inside if they can be brought 
along gently. They set freely, but the size of the fruit is apt to be discouraging. 
I can attribute this only to premature ripening. While the tree may have been 
brought along in a moderate temperature until the fruit is all set, the extremely 




Pear Pitmaston Duchess 
This is a very large Pear; it is not uncommon to have specimens weighing i J4 lbs. and over 



high temperature with which we have to contend at times is decidedly against 
it, and this I believe is one of the causes of ripening before the desired size is 
reached. The Apricot will undoubtedly thrive better in a more even, moist 
climate. I well remember seeing many years ago a crop of Apricots on an open 
wall in the north of Scotland. The trees were absolutely loaded with fine, 
rich, juicy fruit. When I compare such specimens with the results of our efforts 
here, I must admit, regretfully, that we cannot produce their equal in our scorch- 
ing Summers. But better results will be obtained in the orchardhouse than 
by open air culture. That means, of course, in the northern States. If atmos- 



"56 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 




Pear Conference 

Experience has taught me that Conference Pear is one of the richest table Pears that we have, 
although the fruit is not so imposing as some of the other varieties 



pheric conditions of these States were agreeable to tlie best development of tlie 
Apricots, we should see them growing freely and producing a bountiful crop, 
particularly as they ripen in advance of the Peach. While we may see the 
Apricot tree growing luxuriantly, it is minus its important part, the fruit, or 
at least a satisfactory crop. The failure of the Apricot has been attributed to 
early blossoming, combined with Spring frosts, by which considerable damage 
is done. If a stock can be secured for budding the Apricot on, that will with- 
stand our extremes of heat and cold, there may be a partial success with this 
choice fruit. Heavy crops of it are produced annually in the more temperate 
climate of California. I should like to give as good a recommendation to the 
Apricot as I can to the Peach and the Nectarine, the Pear and the Plum, but I 
cannot do so conscientiously, as the facts are against it. 

Figs are admirably adapted for growing in pots and tubs. Their tendency 
to rank growth may be overcome in a measure by the close confinement, which 
produces a firmer growth, and this means a greater abundance of fruit. Where 
Figs are a specialty, however, better results may be obtained by treating them 
in a compartment of their own. As they produce two crops during the season, 
their requirements can be better attended to apart from the other fruit, as I 
shall explain later. I will add here merely, that Figs, when handled properly, 
are much appreciated as a dessert fruit. 

Apples for the orchardhouse offer a great number of varieties that can be 
depended upon for good crops year after year. Some years ago I had many 
varieties under my charge, that were admired for the perfect shape of their 
large fruit. Apples grown under glass are an imposing sight, and the little trees 



FRUIT ADAPTED FOR ORCHARDHOUSE WORK 



157 



loaded down with their massive fruit are sure to attract attention. But, as I 
have said, the outdoor conditions here are so favorable for the perfect develop- 
ment of this fruit that I can only look upon the orchardhouse product as more 
of a curiosity than anything else. 

While the Apple responds excellently to this confined treatment, still the 
dessert or table varieties should be cultivated chiefly. But we cannot pass by 
such noble specimens as Gascoyne Scarlet, Peasgood's Nonsuch, Lady Henniker 
or Gloria Mundi. These have stood out prominently for many years, especially 
in exhibits of orchardhouse fruit. They will outclass the open-air fruit for high 
color, size and finish, particularly if they can be ripened up in a cool, airy house, 
or be placed outside, with the treatment recommended for the Plum; this will 
intensify their color after they are fully grown. 

I have passed in review the different kinds of fruit, not with the view to 
finding fault with any, but for the purpose of indicating those that are the most 
rehable, together with the weak points that I have noted during my many years 
of handhng them. I now leave the grower to choose for himself. 

The following lists are condensed, for I have left out many that might also 
be grown in the orchardhouse. Those that I give, however, will be found suf- 
ficient for all practical purposes and will not confuse with a multiplicity of 
names. The different kinds follow about in the order of their ripening. 



Peaches 

Duchess of Cornwall 

Duke of York 

Early Rivers 

Peregrine 

Dr. Hogg 

Alexandria Noblesse 

Goshawk 

Exquisite 

Princess of Wales 

Thomas Rivers 
*Mountain Rose 
♦Foster 

*Early Crawford 
*Late Crawford 



Nectarines 

Early Rivers 

Advance 

Lord Napier 

Elruge 

Stanwick Elruge 

Byron 

Chaucer 

Newton 

Spencer 

Victoria 

Pears 

Bartlett 

Souv. de Congress 
Madame Treyve 
Beurre Hardy 



♦American Varieties 



Fondante d' Automne 

Louise Bonne de Jersey 

Gansel Bergamot 

Conseiller de la Cour 

Conference 

Magnet 

Pitmaston Duchess 

Doyenne du Cornice 

Du rondeau 

Princess 

Beurre Diel 



Plums 

The Czar 

Early Transparent Gage 
Oullin's Golden Gage 
Mallard 

Denniston Superb 
McLaughlin's Gage 
Green Gage 
Belgian Purple 
Bryanston Gage 
Transparent Gage 
Late Transparent Gage 
Golden Transparent 
Reine Claude de Bavay 
Grand Duke 



Cherries 

May Duke 
Early Rivers 
Frogmore Bigarreau 
Reine Hortense 
Emperor Francis 
Napoleon Bigarreau 



Figs 
Bourjassotte Grise 
Brown Turkey 
Black Marseilles 
Early Violet 
Negro Largo 
Violet Sepor 

Apricots 
Large Early 
Royal 

Moore Park 
Peach 

Apples 
*Mr. Gladstone 
♦Beauty of Bath 
*Lady Sudeley 
*Red Astrachan 
♦William's Favorite 
*Benoni 

fThomas Rivers 
fYorkshire Beauty 
♦Mother 
♦Washington 
♦Ribston Pippin 
tPeasgood's Nonsuch 
♦Cox's Orange Pippin 
♦King of the Pippins 
II Gascoyne Scarlet 
♦Melon Apple 
♦Mannington's Pearmain 
♦King of Tompkins Co. 
II Belle de Pontoise ■ 
IIReinette du Canada 



*For the table 

tFor the kitchen 

II For kitchen or tabic 



1^8 FRUITS AND \IIGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CHAPTER XXV 



FIG CULTURE IN A SEPARATE HOUSE 

Planting and General Treatment — Preparations for the Second Crop — 
Feeding— Gathering the Fruit— Pruning and Training- 
Varieties Best Suited for Forcing 

THE Fig tree is an interesting tree to grow under glass. Wiiile it may be 
grown with fair success in the orchardhouse among other fiuit, it will 
thrive much better in a house byitself, or, properly speaking, in a fighouse. 
The origin of the Fig, like that of many other plants, is obscure, but we do know 
that it was culti\ated in very ancient times. It is probably one of the \'ery 
oldest cultivated fruit trees that we have. Ancient though it be, the luscious 
fruit is still a favorite with many, both fresh and dried. 

There is something majestic about the Fig tree, which is entirely different 
from any other fruit tree. The interesting make-up of both wood and foliage 
is apparent at once; also its different mode of fruit-bearing. Both the wood and 
foliage are highly ornamental in themseKes; but they are as nothing compared 
with the luscious, ripe fruit that follows, not m one crop but in two, with at times 
even a third crop in the same season. There is no other tree that can compare 
with it in fruitfulness. 

California realized the possibilities of the Fig tree many years ago, and with 
an ideal climate for its successful culture, there are now thousands of acres under 
cultivation there, the yield from which must be enormous. 

One thing to be said in favor of Fig culture under glass is, that the tree is 
comparatively free from fungous diseases and from insects, with the excep- 
tion of mealy bug, which will thrive wonderfully if once allowed a footiiold; 
for the fighouse should be maintained in a fairly moist, humid atmosphere 
while developing its crop, and this favors the rapid spread of the bug. 

The Fig is easy to propagate. There are different methods of producing 
young stock, namely, by seed, cuttings, layers and suckers. Seed, however, 
is not often resorted to, unless it be with a view to improving or increasing 
certain kinds that are found to succeed best. The best way to raise seedling 
Figs is to select the finest fruits, allow them to get thoroughly ripe, and then 
separate the pulp from the seed. When dried out it may be sown at once, or 
held until about January and sown in heat, growing the seedlings along without 
a check. 



» FIG CULTURE 159 

Figs will malce a rapid growth either from seed or cuttings. Cuttings are 
selected from ripened wood of the previous year's growth, short-jointed wood 
being preferable. The cuttings may be made in the Fall, heeled into soil in a 
cool house for about a month, when they may be brought into heat. A propa- 
gating house is all right, where the bottom heat is stronger than the top; a place 
suitable for rooting Roses will answer for Figs. While the Fig tree has a very 
strong constitution, its wood is comparatively soft, and one might think that 
its make-up indicated a short duration. But such is not the case. The Fig 
may be counted upon to last for many years, for there is no insect life to bother 
either foliage or roots. Imperfect drainage probably affects the health and vigor 
of the tree more than anything else. While it loves an abundance of moisture 
during its growing season, yet perfect drainage is absolutely necessary. Two 
things should be borne in mind which are of importance in preparing a border 
for Figs, namely, perfect drainage and confining the roots to a limited space. 
If they are allowed to ramble at will, the trees will make an over-abundance of 
wood, with a poor showing of fruit. 

The Fig has many peculiarities, all of which are interesting. Its mode of 
bearing fruit puts it in a class by itself, as it is different from that of any other 
fruit tree I know. It has been thought that the Fig tree bears fruit without 
first producing any blossoms; but this assumption is incorrect. The blossoms 
are there, but they are invisible, or rather, inside of a fleshy receptacle, out of 
which the fig is formed. These blossoms may be considered very fertile, to 
judge from the quantities of seed produced by a single fruit. 

The Fig will grow luxuriantly in almost any style of house with an abundance 
of light and sun. No very large structure is required, as a rule, to supply the 
needs of a private establishment. I have seen excellent results obtained from 
an even span, a three-quarter span or a leanto. It is immaterial which of these 
is used, but whatever kind is selected for the fighouse, it must have full expo- 
sure to the sun. The tree may be trained into any desired shape suitable to 
the structure, but it must have liberal headroom, for the simple reason that 
Figs do not take kindly to severe pruning; which causes rankness of growth 
and should not be encouraged. The best time for thinning or regulating the 
branches is when they are making their growth, and this can be accomplished 
by disbudding and pinching the young wood, as I will explain later. 

While Figs will grow and flourish in a tropical climate, yet a house intended 
for their culture would not be perfect without an abundance of ventilation both 
top and bottom, though the bottom ventilation will not be used until the crop is 
ripening, when a crack of bottom air is of decided benefit. When the last 
crop of fruit is gathered toward the Fall, the bottom vents will do their work 
in firming or ripening up the wood. Though the wood is soft in nature, yet 
the bottom air treatment in the Fall, and away into the Winter, even to ten 
degrees of frost, will greatly benefit the tree. 

In preparing the border, the first essential is good drainage. It is also well 
to confine the roots strictly to a given space, for if they are given any outlet, 
there is no telling how far they will travel. A border six feet wide with soil 
two and one-half , feet deep will support trees for many years, with system in 



i6o FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

feeding, giving top dressing, etc. Tiie Fig is not particular as to soil, and this 
certainly need not be made too rich, otherwise too rank a growth will be sure to 
lollow. A good loam, similar to that recommended for Peaches and Nectarines, 
is about right, and an added sprinkling of coarse bone is all that will be required. 
As the trees get thoroughly established and the border is filled with roots, sur- 
face feeding can be applied to good advantage, according to conditions. If 
the trees have a tendency to rankness, less feeding will be required. From my 
experience I cannot lay down any cut and dried rules. Feed according to the 
nature or the requirements of your trees. We all know that the same quantity 
of fruit cannot be obtained from an over-rank growth as from medium, short- 
jointed wood. The feeding recommended for Peaches and Nectarines will 
also do for Figs. But I repeat that good drainage is one of the chief factors 
of success. With systematic feeding, I have seen wonderful crops of Figs taken 
from houses where the roots were confined to a comparatively small amount of 
soil. 

If a fighouse is started the ist of February at a temperatureof 50° at night and 
60 to 65 by day, gradually increasing to 65 by night and 75° by day or 80° with 
sun heat, ripe Figs may be had about the first or second week in May. When 
the requirements of this fruit are once fully understood, it is not difficult to 
raise successful crops year after year, for the trees are of a hardy, robust consti- 
tution. Still a crop may be seriously damaged within a short time. For 
instance, just as the fruit begins to ripen, a dry, bracing atmosphere must be 
maintained, with no spraying of the trees while the crop is in its ripening stage. 
The skin of the fruit is so tender, that too much moisture would produce mould, 
which is the starting point of decay. A drier atmosphere is also necessary in 
order to get the desired rich, luscious flavor. 

When the first crop is gathered spraying and moisture can be more freely 
given, until the second crop is ripe. It is easy to see from this mode of treat- 
ment that it is of decided advantage to have Figs in a house where they can be 
treated according to their own peculiar requirements. Simple though these 
be, it would be impossible to satisfy them in a mixed house. 

PLANTING AND GENERAL TREATMENT 

The Fig tree will begin to bear while it is still quite small, or the second 
season after planting. The greatest obstacle to success is probably the 
crowding of too many trees into a house. Young trees may be planted six 
or seven feet apart; this distance will do for three or four years, or until 
they begin to crowd into each other. It is then better to remove every 
other tree rather than to resort to much pruning. It is well to have this exi- 
gency in mind in first planting a house, and to arrange that the peimanent 
trees shall be about fifteen feet apart. This will allow the proper expansion 
of the branches on each side of the main stem. After spacing the permanent 
trees, the supplementary ones may be set in between, with a view to removing 
them when the space is needed. 

Young stock for planting is as a rule pot grown. Therefore all roots must 



FIG CULTURE 



i6i 




Fig Bourjassotte Gri&e 

A Fig branch in fruit, showing two crops. The two large figs are just ripe, while the three 
smaller ones have not long been formed 



i62 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

be disentangled and straightened, or spread over the border. They should 
not be set out just as they come from tlie pot, for freer root action will be ob- 
tained by reheving the roots around the iiall, and spreading them about as 
much as possible. This little preliminary work will promote a more satis- 
factory growth in every respect. It is necessary at times to root-prune the 
Fig tree, after it has been in the soil for two or three years and makes an extra 
strong growth, with a poor showing of fiuit. 

Root-pruning is a simple operation. Dig a trench around the tree about 
two feet from the butt; this will encourage more fibrous roots, and these roots 
again will encourage growth that will produce fruiting wood. The long, rank, 
coarse roots are anything but desirable, as they produce only rank, fruitless 
wood. 

The nature and make-up of the Fig are entirely different from those of 
any other fruit. While its cultivation is simple to the man who understands 
its needs, my object here is to give such instructions that the amateur grower 
who follows them can make a success of Fig culture. The key to success is 
interest, and when that has been awakened it is soon followed by enthusiasm 
for the work, which will abide for all time. 

The Fig is good for two crops at least, and if the house has been started 
on the first of January, three crops may be gathered during the season. The 
first crop, however, is procured from the previous year's growth, if we are through 
forcing by the end of September, and the house is thrown open to ripen up the 
wood for the following season. Sometimes quite a number of small green Figs 
appear on the young wood; when these are large enough to be detected or begin 
to take their shape, they should all be removed, which can be best done with 
the finger and thumb. If this green fruit is allowed to stay on it will drop 
off, instead of swelling or maturing, when the trees are started up in the Spring, 
whereas if it is removed in the early Fall, the tree will have suflFicient time to 
exert its powers in the seasonable preparation of new Figs for the following 
year. If the operation is undertaken in time, new Figs will form before the 
Winter sets in. Sometimes two Figs will form in place of one rubbed off. 

PREPARATIONS FOR THE SECOND CROP 

Soon after the heat is turned on in the Spring, growth and the first crop 
will start at the same time. Figs will appear on the previous year's wood as 
the, new growth progresses; these should be pinched in due time, from six to 
nine inches, according to space. This will check the flow of sap, which causes 
the wood to firm up and will produce fruit from the axils of the young leaves. 
In a short time wood growth will commence again, and this may be pinched 
again as recommended for the second crop. Usually there are more young 
shoots starting than are necessary. Any shoots not needed should be disbudded 
or pinched back close to the old wood. While it is well to have the tree furnished 
with foliage, this should not be at the expense of crowding. Any wood that 
has been growing during the Summer in a crowded condition cannot be ex- 
pected to give satisfactory results the following season. Success, moreover, 



FIG CULTURE 163 

is more certain if all the shoots can be kept in equal vigor. Any shoots that 
appear to be advancing unduly or taking the lead should be pinched. This will 
be a check and will divert some of the sap into other channels. An equal dis- 
tribution of the sap is beneficial in various ways; there will be a disposition 
to produce fruit that will be less liable to drop off. With any irregularity of 
growth the flow of sap also will be irregular, and this is sometimes the first reason 
of fruit dropping before it is ripe. Equalization of the sap is one of the secrets 
of successful Fig culture. But with care and close attention to details this 
may be accomplished without much difficulty. 

The Fig leaf will absorb large quantities of moisture, and a moist, humid 
atmosphere is therefore good for the tree, except when the fruit is ripening, 
at which time a fairly dry, bracing atmosphere must be maintained. 

By arranging the Summer's growth, disbudding all surplus shoots, that 
are not required to furnish the tree, the Winter's pruning will not be a great 
work. As it is the nature of the Fig tree to produce rank growth, severe Winter 
pruning would only increase or encourage the trouble. Better success may 
undoubtedly be had with good headroom and space for the trees to expand. 
While I advocate as little pruning as possible, still it would be useless to tie 
in the wood to an extreme degree; the foliage is very massive and requires space 
for perfect development. 

FEEDING 

When first making a border, very rich compost would be a serious mistake, 
as I have already said. When the roots are strictly confined to a given space — 
as they should be for best results — it will be found after a few years that the 
border is matted with working roots, if everything has progressed favorably. 
Then a top dressing will be of great assistance in starting them on their season's 
work. This dressing may be in the proportion of two of soil to one of manure. 
Bone meal, wood ashes and Thomson's manure are all good for bringing the 
crop to its highest state of perfection. Bone is best applied with the top dressing. 
A light appHcation of Thomson's manure or wood ashes may be made whenever 
the border requires water. But in using any high grade fertilizer, like Thom- 
son's manure, it is always best to water the border first; then add the fertilizer, 
mixed with six or seven parts of soil, and always give a light watering after 
applying the fertilizer. Directions always go with the bag. Two or three 
applications of this manure may be given during the season if the trees are 
making normal growth and are producing liberal crops. I have tested many 
different grades of fertilizers and have obtained the best results by the use of 
Thomson's vine and plant manure. Hence the strong recommendation. It 
is especially good for all kinds of indoor fruit. It has stood the test of many 
years, always with gratifying results when properly handled. We are living 
in a progressive age and during recent years the manufacturers of fertilizers 
have given their best thoughts to the question of turning out high grade, 
complete manures, knowing full well that the grower is ever on the alert for an 
article that will help him to bring about best results. High grade manures are 
naturally more expensive, or seem to be, than low grade ones, but if the 



i64 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

grower considers the results that may Ijc obtained by use of the best material, 
and that a smaller quantity is required for building up both foliage and fruit 
to the highest state of perfection, he will always select the high grade article, at 
least for indoor fruit. 

Bon Arbor is also a wonderful plant invigorator. If a plant is a bit off 
color in foliage, while the roots are in an active, healthy condition, one watering 
with Bon Arbor given as directed will produce good results within a few days, 
bringing back that deep, green lustre so desirable. It also is a complete, high 
grade manure, and is pretty well known, I believe, throughout the country, 
being used by the majority of up-to-date fruit and flower growers. The manu- 
facturers of this manure have received many testimonials from all parts of the 
country as to its standard qualities, and the benefits derived therefrom. 

Clay's fertilizer is one of the old, high grade manures, and as popular as 
ever. During the last twenty years it has made many friends throughout 
this country. A more recent introduction that has gained popularity is Ich- 
themic guano; it is admirably adapted for all indoor fruit. A good indication 
of its eflTicacy is given by the plant itself: when a top dressing is applied, 
the roots will come in an astonishingly short time, which shows clearly that the 
ingredients contained in the guano are decidedly agreeable to fruit trees. 

There are many other brands of fertilizers that are excellent for different 
crops. In all the high grade fertilizers put en the market today the ingredients 
are indicated, and the analj'ses show the percentage of their constituent elements. 

GATHERING THE FRUIT 

In the gathering of the fruit the Fig again differs somewhat from all other 
fruit, in that the flavor is decidedly improved by allowing it to remain on the 
tree until it is dead ripe, or almost on the point of shriveling up. In order 
to bring it to this state, a decidedly dry atmosphere must be maintained through- 
out the ripening process, or decay will follow. Neither can the rich, luscious 
flavor be obtained otherwise. A Fig picked when under-ripe is absolutely 
offensive. 

PRUNING AND TRAINING 

Although the Fig tree must not be subjected to severe pruning, yet a cer- 
tain amount of pruning cannot be avoided. We may have used good judgment 
in regard to pinching and disbudding through the season of growth, but when 
the time comes around for cleaning and tying up preparatory to another start, 
the chances are that there is more wood than is necessary to furnish the tree, 
and it is better to cut this out than to crowd in an unnecessary lot. Some- 
times it is advisable to cut a branch clean away, so as to give more room to the 
others; but it should be borne in mind that the last growth which has been made 
is the growth we depend upon for our first crop in the Spring. 

The Fig tree may be trained either horizontally or in fan shape, as best 
suits the grower. I recommend the fan for training; but the man in charge 



FIG CULTURE 



165 



of the operation should be the best judge. The aim in this operation is to encour- 
age an even distribution of grow-th all over the tree. For instance, if, in cutting 
away a shoot or branch a growth is needed at the base of this shoot, prune 
to one or two eyes; then in time those eyes will start into growth and furnish 
the necessary shoots. But if no future shoot is required, it is best to cut back 
to the main wood, leaving no eyes for a further growth. It is usually advisable 
to encourage back growths, with a view to having an even distribution of fohage, 
for this means an even distribution of sap, which is a very important factor in 
the successful cultivation of Figs. It is well for the beginner to bear this in 
mind whenever training a Fig tree. Try to cultivate or train an evenly-bal- 
anced tree. Pinch back any shoots that are taking the lead noticeably, for by 
doing this the sap will be more fully equalized throughout the tree. 

Attention to these small details at the beginning of training will make the 
subsequent operations simpler. The same appHes to the tying in of the young 
growth. When tying the shoots before starting, allowance should be made for 
expansion. The wood will grow considerably, even in one season. I have known 
serious damage to be done through securing the wood too tightly to the trellis, 
or allowmg the string to cut into the wood as it expands. 

VARIETIES BEST SUITED FOR FORCING 

There is a long list of varieties that could be recommended. I have selected 

what I consider the best and most reliable for forcing purposes. My list will 
be found sufficient for all practical purposes. 

Bourjassotte Grise Pingo de Mel 

Brown Turkey Ronde Violette Hative 

Brown Ischia Violette Sepor 

Early Violet White Marseilles 

Negro Largo Black Marseilles 




Fig Negro Largo 

This variety has stood the forcing test for many years, and still is one of the best 
for growing under glass 



i66 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CHAPTER XXVI 

MELON-GROWING IN THE HOUSE 
Soil — Raising Young Plants 

RIPE Melons are eagerly sought as a table luxury, whether grown on the 
farm or under glass, probably because there is no fruit more healthful 
to the human system. For two or three months of the year the markets 
are usually well supplied with the outdoor Melons. The earliest come from the 
South, while the Northern-grown fruit finishes up the season. Our Southern 
States have an ideal climate for the production of high-flavored Melons; Colo- 
rado also sends her full quota of Rocky Fords, which are grown better there than 
in any other State. A Rocky Ford grown in New York or New Jersey cannot 
compare with the Colorado product. This shows plainly enough that soil 
combined with climatic conditions has a wonderful effect on the make-up of 
the diflferent fruits, in regard to quality, richness of flavor, etc. It is, however, 
not my intention to discuss outdoor Melon culture here, more important though 
it may be than my subject proper, the cultivation of Melons under glass. 

In producing Melons artificially, there is the satisfaction of having them 
out of season, or when there are none in the market, at which time they w^ill be 
all the more appreciated. In a private establishment w'ith a house suitable 
for the purpose, ripe Melons may be had for Christmas. We have here an advan- 
tage over our brother gardeners across the Atlantic, in getting much more sun- 
light for our fruit, for Melons will not thrive without a fair amount of sun. 
They have been cultivated for centuries both in the open and under glass. We 
learn from early history that the Melon flourished and was abundant in Persia, 
growing on the plains of Ispahan, and it is said to have been of excellent finish 
and flavor — so much so as to attract the attention of the missionaries, who then 
brought the seed to Rome. It was introduced into France about 1495, and 
brought later to England. Put here it was probably not grow'n with much 
success until glass houses came into vogue. From that time on, howevei, it 
has been improved to a wonderful degree, by careful selection and systematic 
cross-fertilization. Within my time even the varieties that were leaders some 
thirty years ago, such as Colston Basset, Victory of Bath, Gilbert's Green Flesh, 
Beechwood, Bromham Hall, and a few others, equally well known then, have 
passed. As with most other fruit, here also the hybridizers have been steadily 
impro^•ing upon the varieties year after year. 



MELON-GROWING IN THE HOUSE 167 

It is not difficult to obtain different forms of Melons. In a mixed house 
of fruit, or where there are three or four varieties together, and especially in the 
Summer when the bees are busy, there will certainly be a haphazard mixture. 
But where improvements of any pretension have been made, cross-fertilization 
has been carried out systematically and records have been kept of the 
parentage. The one firm which has perhaps done the most valuable work 
in sending out new varieties remarkable for size, vigor and rich flavor, is 
that of Sutton and Sons, of Reading, England. It has been engaged in 
this work for many years and its introductions are widely known, in this 
country also, and appreciated both for their strong, robust constitution and 
free setting quahties. 

It is not uncommon for a promising seedhng to spring up here and there 
from time to time. Some of these new varieties may prove successful, but il 
is well to give any seedhng that is put on the market a preliminary trial, and if 
it stands the test and is an improvement on the varieties already on hand, the 
grower can only gain by including it in his assortment. Moreover, it is inter- 
esting to give anything new a test, even if it is to be cast aside when it does not 
fulfill expectations. All growers will agree with me when I say, that a new fruit 
is watched with a careful eye from the time that the seed is put into the earth 
until the period of maturity. 

Melons will thrive in different kinds of houses. As a Summer crop they 
are not very exacting, providing there is plenty of sunHght. It takes less skill 
to produce a satisfactory crop during the long days of the Summer, than it does 
toward the Fall and in the Winter months. Melons are one of the most 
exacting of crops during the short days, requiring a fairly steady temperature 
both night and day. A check of any kind means ruination to the crop. This, 
in fact, holds good Winter and Summer, but as the latter crop is grown under 
more natural conditions, with no artificial heat, and only the sun's rays on the 
glass, it naturally is not so Hable to get chilled. 

Indoor Melons are becoming very popular among the wealthy, and the glass 
area devoted to their culture is much greater now than it was even a few years 
ago. Where this fruit is grown to the highest state of perfection the demand 
for it is always keen, but if it is of poor finish it may go begging. So it rests 
in the last instance with us growers whether the Melon is in demand or not. 
We often find fault with a certain variety for its lack of flavor, when it very 
probably is due to our own bad management. I know this from practical expe- 
rience. Yet some varieties unquestionably have a much richer flavor than 
others, and it may also happen that certain kinds can be grown successfully in 
one locality, while they may be a failure in another. We very often find, in 
going around among the diff'erent growers, that each will favor different varieties. 
Soil and location are no doubt responsible to a certain extent for such prefer- 
ences. The same also holds good for outdoor Melons. The best thing to do, 
in making a selection, is to test a number of varieties, and then choose the most 
satisfactory doers on our own particular ground. 

Three or four years ago, when Sutton's Emerald Gem was sent out, I gave 
it a trial. With me it would grow from eight to ten pounds per fruit, fine look- 



1 68 



FRUITS AND NIIGF.TABI I S I'NKrR G! ASS 




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MELON-GROWING IN THE HOUSE 169 

ing specimens, but unfortunately with a decidedly watery flavor, so that I had 
to discard it. 

Melons may be grown successfully in almost any style of house, as I have 
said, for a few months in the Summer; but when they are to be grown both 
Winter and Summer, it is well to secure the best house for the purpose. It is 
not necessary to have a very large house, but a span roof is the best. I have 
seen good fruit produced in an even span running east and west, but an even 
span running north and south is much better, as the vines will then get more 
even sunhght. A house about twelve to fourteen feet wide is sufficient; this 
will give the vines head room enough, training them to trellis up each side. A 
comparatively small house will be found advantageous in cold weather. A 
veiy high house would not be advisable, as we have to maintain a minimum 
temperature of not less than 70°. Occasionally, a visitor not acquainted with 
the forcing process, on being taken through a melonhouse, has expressed sur- 
prise to see the vines trained on trelHses about fifteen inches from the glass, 
which seems contrary to their natural trailing habits. But in growing fruit 
artificially, methods must be adopted that will lead to success. As A-Ielon fo- 
liage evaporates considerable moisture, whether grown in the open air or under 
glass, the forcing house will be charged with considerable humidity, and the 
foliage will therefore reabsorb more. If the vines were allowed to trail inside, 
as they do in their natural state outside, they would decay before the crop was 
half ripe. 

SOIL 

Good soil is one of the chief requirements for success in Melon culture under 
glass. With poor soil success is very uncertain. It is inviting failure to attempt 
to grow this crop through the Winter with unsatisfactory soil. In the first place, 
the compost should be such as to allow the roots to penetrate through the soil. 
Keep lively root action from the time the plants are set in the bench until matur- 
ity. It IS easy to recommend a certain grade of soil, but it may be very difficult 
to obtain the same in certain localities. A desirable compost is a fairly heavy 
loam from old pasture land, which is friable rather than adhesive. This sod 
land may be plowed about three inches deep and the sod staked in a pile a month 
before it is needed; it will then be in good condition for use. If manure is added, 
It should be done sparingly. It is not a good plan to use much farmyard manure 
with Melon soil, though a little may be added that is thoroughly decayed. I 
have also found leaf soil excellent to mix in with the compost, particularly when 
the soil is a bit heavy. The compost should be such as to produce a healthy 
root action. While there should be a fairly healthy, vigorous growth, nothing 
IS gained by vines that are too rank. A richer top dressing may be applied after 
the fruit is set. 

Where Melons under glass are grown on a fairly extensive scale, there 
should be three compartments. It will take about three months from the time 
the seed is sown until the fruit is ripe, that is, from Spring until Fall. During 
the Winter it will take longer for the crop to mature. Sometimes four months 
are needed, especially with much cloudy weather. Considerable time may be 



170 FRUITS AND XCGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

saved by having young plants in Uuir-incii or li\e-incii pots, ready for planting 
in the house again when the other crop is gathered; but the young plants siiould 
not be allowed to get pot-bound, or failure will be the result. 

RAISING YOUNG PLANTS 

There is no better place to germinate the seed than the Melon house itself. 
Use 2-inch pots for the purpose, with a fair amount of leaf soil to encourage 
quick root action. Fill the pots about three parts full of soil and press moder- 
ately firm; then place a couple of seeds in each pot and cover with one-half inch 
of soil. Should both seeds germinate, pull one out. If the pots are set in a 
close, dark place the seed will germinate more readily. There being very little 
evaporation not much water is needed. An ordinary flat is good for the purpose; 
set the pots close together, cover with glass and keep dark with paper or card- 
board. If Melon seed gets too much water before germination, part of it is 
liable to perish. 

When the seedlings show signs of growth, remove to full light near the glass. 
Try to induce a stocky, healthy growth as the plant gets rooted. Repot into 
three and one-half-inch pots, with somewhat heavier soil. From these pots 
the seedlings may be planted on the bench, or if the house is not quite ready, 
repot into five-inch pots. Success or failure in fruiting thrifty young stock 
depends very largely on the condition of the plants when set or planted in the 
bench. This is one of the main considerations in all plant life, but while other 
stock that has received a clieck may sometimes be brought around to yield fair 
results, the Melon is a stubborn plant; if it has received a set-back in any way, 
the progress will be slow and the results very unsatisfactory. Therefore, only 
vigorous, healthy young plants should be set out. I have planted them on the 
bench out of two-inch pots, but I prefer setting out stronger plants; these will 
quickly start to root through the new soil, and make rapid progress. 







MELON-GROWING IN THE HOUSE 



171 




MusKMELON, Turner's Seedling 

This handsome Melon was raised some few years ago by me. A green-fleshed Melon, rich 
flavor, with small seed cavity and deep fleshed 



172 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CHAPTER XXVII 



MELONS— GENERAL CULTURE 

Planting — Setting the Fruit — Watering — Feeding — Gathering the 
Fruit— Insects and Mildew — Varieties 

PLANTING 

A LARGE body of soil is not necessary for producing a good crop of Melons. 
It may also ^■ary according to the season. In the Winter the roots 
should be confined to a rather small space. At this season much 
skill, care and close watchfulness are required for satisfactory results, for the 
Melon is most exacting at this time. 

While ripe Melons may be had through the Winter, yet I do not deny that 
it is difficult occasionally to secure the desired results. Having grown Melons 
now for several years all through the Winter, I have observed various things 
about them worthy of mention. When the plants are in bloom and ready for 
fertilizing, (all blossoms must be hand-fertilized carefully during the 
Winter months,) and if there is clear weather while the fruit is setting, they will 
set more freely and start to grow better in every respect. This also holds good 
during Summer cultivation, although it is decidedly more noticeable in the 
Winter. Therefore take advantage of clear, bright weather to set the Iruit. 
I have also had better success by using boxes for Winter, three and one-half 
feet long, twelve inches wide and six inches deep, planting three vines in each, 
box and leaving space for top dressing. If the plants are out of five-inch pots 
place them at equal distances, then add enough soil to form three mounds, or suffi- 
cient to cover the balls, firming the soil well around the roots, and as the roots 
penetrate through add more soil, except when setting the fruit, at which time 
no feeding or top dressing should be done. 

There is yet another thing to be said in favor of boxes. As Melons luust 
be kept near 70^ at night, with 80° by day or 85° with sun, the bencii tile will 
at times get rather warm, especially in very cold weather, but the roots in the 
boxes will not feel the extremely dry heat. However this may be, I find the 
boxes a decided improvement. In every other respect the treatment is the same 
as for the Summer. Guard against too much moisture around the neck of the 
plants, especially in a spell of dark, cloudy weather, or they will damp off. Some 
growers call this condition a disease, which it probably is, and brought on by 



MELON-GROWING IN THE HOUSE 173 

carelessness in allowing too much moisture to lodge around the necks of the 
plants. A batch of plants can easily be lost in this way in a few days. When 
a vine shows signs of damping off, place some slaked lime around its neck, 
mixed with some powdered charcoal. 

In repotting or boxing it is important to have the new soil of the same 
temperature as that in which the plant has been growing. There is nothing 
worse than to add cold soil to the roots. 

A grower desiring to produce Melons during the Winter must be quick 
to seize every little advantage; above all, a steady temperature must be kept 
night and day. During very hard firing the plants will be benefited by damping 
down a couple of times during the night, if there is a night fireman at hand; 
if not, damp down around 10 p. m. This will help the foliage, for too dry an 
atmosphere will cause it to dry up. 

As to the usual method of planting for early Spring and during the Summer 
months, good Melons have been grown in six inches of soil, and also a foot deep. 
In fact, years ago soil from a foot to eighteen inches deep was recommended. 
But with the high grade of manure we now have and with our systematic feeding 
it is not necessary or advisable to use such a heavy bulk of soiL Fresh soil 
should be brought in for each crop. The best dimensions are found in a space 
two feet wide and six or seven inches deep; this will hold enough soil to produce 
an excellent crop. Set the plants in hills fifteen inches apart and train up to 
trellis. I prefer to set the plants rather close together, training only one main 
shoot to each plant. No pinching is then needed, until within six inches of 
the desired height, when the point may be pinched. This will cause side shoots 
to come away from every leaf joint. These lateral growths are what we depend 
on for our crop. Fruit usually shows at the first leaf, then the shoot should 
be pinched again one leaf beyond the first. 

SETTING THE FRUIT 

The Melon is dioecious, bearing male and female flowers on the same plant. 
The first is essential for the fertilization of the second. The male flower has 
three stamens united by their anthers, but the filaments are distinct. The 
part between the stem and base of the corolla is slender and cyfindricaL The 
female flower i.^ readily distinguished from the male, being altogether stouter. 
In the Summer, with an abundance of fresh air admitted and bees among the 
blossoms, the pollen may be fairly well distributed without the aid of hand 
fertilization. But it is not wise to depend on circumstances, as the operation 
does not require much time. It is well to bear in mind the nun. ber of fruit 
that each vine is to carry. When the plants are set fifteen inches apart, two 
Melons on each vine will make an excellent crop, particularly for private use, 
where two perfectly finished Melons will count more than four poor ones. But 
whatever may be the desired number on each vine, the full complement should 
be set on the vine at one time, otherwise the early set blossom will take the 
lead, while the others may refuse to swell at all. The operation is simple. In the 
first place, see that the pollen is perfectly dry. Then when both male and female 



174 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

flowers arc fully cxpandecl, select a male blossom, strip ofT its corolla and in\ert 
in the female blossom. Choose a clear, bright day, if possible, and do the work 
around mid-day. Blossoms that are fertilized in bright sunshine will be found 
to swell mueh more rapidly and produce a decidedly better crop, if the vines 
arc in a healthy condition; then the fruit will make quick headway. After 
fertilization and before the fruit gets \-ery weighty, supports will be needed. 
Various contrivances Iia\e been used for this purpose. A favorite support 
years ago was a piece ol board nine or ten inches square with a hole bored into 
each corner, and a piece of pliable wire secured thereto, long enough to fasten 
to the trellis. Another plan is to use strong raffia twisted into a sling, which 
will support the fruit. There is some danger, however, in these two methods, 
as the fruit may drop, which means a complete loss, as it then usually splits. 
The best and safest way is to support the fruit with nets about twelve inches 
square and fastened to the trellis with a sufficiently long piece of string. This 
is the most satisfactory support in every way and will last for years. 



WATERING 

Judgment is necessary in watering. Melons delight in a liberal supply 
of moisture, both at the roots and in the atmosphere. Spraying will therefore 
be in order two or three times a day in bright weather. When the firing has 
stopped, it is not advisable to spray the vines very late in the e\ening. Never 
close the vents tight from the time the fires are out until artificial heat is again 
turned on. We usually have three to three and one-half months without fire. 
It a house without fire heat is closed, the condensation is too great and may induce 
disease, or what is commonly known as black spot on the foliage. The crop 
should never suffer for want of water at the roots, particularly when in active 
gro\\th; then a humid atmosphere should be maintained, except when fer- 
tilizing the blossoms and again when the fruit is ripening. At these periods 
there should be a drier atmosphere. Less moisture at the roots will then also 
improve the flavor. But do not allow the foliage to flag. Crops have been wholly 
or partially ruined by carelessness in watering. If Melons are allowed to suffer 
for want of water when in full growth, the root action will be considerably dam- 
aged. Soft roots like those of the Melon cannot safely withstand any extieme 
drying. Nor is it well to give an over-abundance of water, or to keep the soil 
always saturated. Give a thorough watering, then allow the soil to sweeten 
before applying more. This plan will maintain a healthy root action from 
start to finish. 

FEEDING 

Feeding depends to some extent on the condition of the vines. Some soils 
are so poor that the grower will have to depend wholly on systematic feeding 
and top dressing to get satisfactory results. But with a rich, retentive loam 
very little feeding is needed until the fruit is set. Without a robust vine it 
is impossible to gather fruit six and seven pounds in weight. It is therefore 



MELON-GROWING IN THE HOUSE 17^, 

well to build up the vines gradually, so that they can yield the fruit demanded 
of them. Several years ago I tried an experiment with a batch of Melons, grow- 
ing one half wholly with the aid of cow manure, used in liquid form, which 
produced an exceedingly fine crop of fruit. The other half I brought along with 
the aid of sheep manure, but this crop was a sorry sight. I have proved to 
my own satisfaction more than once, that sheep manure is not agreeable to a 
Melon crop. I believe, however, that a change of food is beneficial to any growing 
crop. The main thing is to find out just what is good for certain crops. While 
I do not believe in carrying experiments to extremes, yet some experimenting 
is educational and of great benefit at times. 

Top dressing is one of the best means of producing healthy, vigorous plants. 
Whenever a top dressing is applied, it seems to give a new lease of life to the 
root action, which is a fair indication that this method of applying food is agree- 
able. Free root action means excellent foliage, and good foliage means fine 
Melons. 

As to the most suitable material for feeding, and the method of applying 
It, most growers in this country probably work along the same lines. Syste- 
matic feeding in proper quantities is most important. The crop will take a 
fair amount of feeding, but it will not endure gorging. It is far better to err 
on the light side. An overfed Melon vine acts much like a stunted one. In 
fact, more food than the roots can absorb will cause stagnation. Ichthemic 
guano, used as a top dressing, in the proportion of about twenty parts of soil 
to one part of guano, will produce a good growth. A top dressing of this kind 
should be applied just as the vine needs watering. 

Nitrate of soda, in careful hands, can be used for two purposes: It will hasten 
maturity and increase the size of the fruit, particularly with the assistance 
of other food. Cow manure water may be advantageously used a few times 
while the fruit is swelling. A tablespoonful of nitrate of soda to three gallons 
of water is a safe proportion. The soil should be moderately moist when apply- 
ing the soda. The best time to use this is after the fruit is set and swellin<^ 
rapidly. "^ 

Clay's fertilizer has proved excellent for bringing along this crop to the 
highest state of perfection, with the assistance of other ingredients. Clay's 
IS best used in a liquid form, a moderately small handful to three gallons of 
water. If bone is used in the compost, it should be the finest grade, or that 
known as bone flour. 

_ As it takes only ten to twelve weeks from the time the plants are set in 
their fruiting quarters until the fruit is matured, the food must be of a quick 
acting nature, so that the plant will get the full benefit. I have said that I 
prefer a change of diet, but whatever is given, the grower should know the 
nature of the food and how it will agree with the development both of vine and 
fruit. Melons will resent anything that is not suitable to their growth more 
than any other fruit I know. If a mistake has been made and the vines receive 
a severe check, it is an up-hill proposition to revive them. Therefore, good 
ludgment must be exercised. 

I have grown excellent Melons with the aid of cow manure water alone. 



176 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 




Melon Superb 

The above picture represents a Midwinter crop of Melons growing in boxes. The variety 
Superb is admirably adapted for Winter forcing 



MELON-GROWING IN THE HOUSE 177 

but the grower using the chemicals indicated will have better results in different 
ways. Most important of all, the flavor will be far superior to what it would 
be if manure water alone were used. Deficiency in flavor may be due to various 
causes, as lack of root action or too much moisture, both in the air and at the 
roots. With proper care in feeding and good root action the results should be 
excellent. It is not always a question of size, but when the grower can com- 
bine size with high quality the height of his ambition is realized. Still, a Melon 
five or six pounds in weight is sufficient for all purposes. 

GATHERING THE FRUIT 

Flavor may be assisted somewhat by gathering the fruit at the right stage 
of development. If allowed to get over-ripe, the flesh will be of a soft, musky 
flavor, disagreeable rather than palatable. When they finish with full vigor. 
Melons will ripen very quickly. Sometimes the color will change in a night; 
the fruit will emit a strong perfume, and it will probably also show signs of part- 
ing from the stalk; it is then in the best possible condition for gathering, though 
it may seem quite solid. At this stage it should be placed in a cool, airy room 
and kept there for a few days, according to the weather. This will allow the 
fruit to soften or mellow, and it will then retain its full flavor. Melons should 
not be kept in the refrigerator for many hours before using; this is often done 
with the result that the grower is blamed for a fault not his own, for Melons 
so treated lose in flavor. 

No doubt many excellent varieties have been condemned through lack of 
knowledge in gathering at the proper stage of ripeness. 

INSECTS AND MILDEW 

The careful grower will not be troubled much with either insect life or 
fungous diseases. These are generally brought on by careless airing and in- 
effective spraying. Red spider is the most dreaded insect; if not checked it 
will ruin the crop in a short time, as it makes rapid headway on the soft foliage. 
A clean start is the best preventive for this evil. Give the house a wash-down 
after every crop. The pest can be eradicated by the effective use of the spray, 
applying it directly under the foliage with as much force as the leaves will stand. 
Sponging foliage of this kind is harmful. 

Green fly must also be destroyed. Although it is not often troublesome, 
yet it may be brought about through too dry an atmosphere. Melon vines will 
absolutely refuse to grow when infested with green fly, for it causes the leaves 
to curl up and gives the vine a stunted appearance. It can be easily killed 
off with a light fumigation a couple of nights in succession; this is better than too 
strong an application at one time. As the tender leaves are easily damaged, 
heavy smoking is not good for them, especially in very warm Summer weather; 
the foliage will not stand as much then as in cold weather. 

Mildew does not often attack the foliage. It is at times a bit troublesome 
toward the Fall. A light dusting of sulphur on the foliage, or a patch put on 



,78 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

the pipes when the hot water is on, will generally check its spread. If the pipes 
are extra hot, in a very cold spell, only a small quantity of sulphur should be 
placed on them, or the fumes may overcome the vmes. 

VARIETIES 

Quite a number of varieties can be recommended highly for forcing under 
glass, but to keep up the standard of excellence in the selection of seed requires 
care 'and good judgment. Where there are four or five varieties m the same 
melonhouse, all growing together, the pollen will distribute itself over all, and 
we get promiscuous cross-fertilization, especially m the Summer. If this were 
allowed to continue for any length of time, it would result m deterioration. 
The only sure method for improvement is to grow each kind in a house by itseit 
and carefully select the finest specimens, allowing the fruit intended for seed 
to stay on the vine until dead ripe. Melons will reproduce themselves in this 
way and with careful selection the variety will improve rather than deteriorate. 
If a 'variation from the type grown is desired, the pollen from another promising 
variety must be secured, fertilizing the fruit intended for seed. In this way 
an improvement may be obtained. 

In many cases, however, it is desirable to grow a mixed house, so as to 
secure varietv for the table. A green-fleshed Melon one day and a scarlet- 
fleshed specimen the next is a pleasant change. It is not advisable to depend 
on seed from a mixed house, at least for many crops. Better procure seed from 
a place where it has been carefully selected true to name. You cannot expect 
improvement in any seed that is selected haphazard. , „ , j 

Melons may be divided into three classes: green flesh, scarlet flesh and 
white flesh. There are two or three Melons of excellent flavor in the last- 
named class, but, personally, I do not admire the white-fleshed sort. I consider 
green or scarlet flesh decidedlv more inviting, though Royal Favorite and Hero 
of Lockinge are all that could be desired as to richness of flavor. Our American 
Emerald Gem has been recommended at different times for forcing purposes 
and the flavor of this excellent variety is well known. The constitution ot 
Emerald Gem is unfortunately a bit weak for forcing under glass, which makes 
it less desirable for a forcing Melon. The following varieties will be found satis- 
factory for forcing purposes: 

Green Flesh Royal Jubilee Sutton^s Scarlet 

A careful selection of Sutton s 1 riumph 

Sutton's Ringleader Emerald Gem may also Sutton's Invincible 

Best of All be grown under glass White Flesh 

SuttontEmerald Gem Scarlet Flesh Royal F-orhe 

Windsor Castle Superlative Hero of Lock nge 

Turner's Seedling Sutton's A, Buscot Park Hero 




STRAWBERRIES AS POT FRUIT 179 



CHAPTER XXVIII 



STRAWBERRIES AS POT FRUIT 

Selecting the Runners — Process of Forcing — Temperatures — 
Feeding, etc. — Watering — Gathering the Fruit 

THE Strawberry has been forced successfully for many years, and most 
people welcome this popular fruit whether in season or out. It responds 
readily to the forcing process if a few necessary details are carried out and 
varieties are selected that are suitable for the purpose. Indeed, finer fruit may 
be had from pots than from open air culture. No birds or insects to mar the 
berries, and perfect fruit of the largest size, with pleasing color and flavor, may 
be grown. Strawberries under glass are not a very expensive luxury, taking 
everything into account. They may be brought along with other crops, with 
no interference whatever. They arc what is called a catch crop, which I will 
explain later. 

There are few places where greenhouse gardening is carried on to any 
extent, that do not grow some Strawberries. This crop is among the first of 
the season, and may be had with little effort from the end of February to the 
first of June by bringing in a batch every week or ten days. But, like all 
fruit under glass, thy must receive proper care. Southern berries, which 
appear in the market very early in the season, cannot compare with the hot- 
house fruit as to size and high quality. As a dessert fruit the Strawberry 
is popular throughout this country, though it is best known to the general 
public in its natural season or in its wild state. With our wonderfully varying 
climates in the different States, the berry season is a long one; still, there will 
be always room for the greenhouse fruit, particularly among the wealthy classes. 
It may not always pay as a money-making proposition, but it more than pays 
in a private establishment, for the owner will have here something that money 
cannot purchase, and a basket of fine Strawberries is a most acceptable present 
for a friend at any time. The Strawberry is a pot fruit par excellence in every 
private establishment, if grown to the highest state of perfection. 

In years gone by it was thought that forced berries could not possibly be 
brought up to the outdoor standard, but in recent years the greenhouse produc- 
tion has increased rapidly and it now ranks as a very perfect fruit. To obtain 
this result there must be no guesswork. Give the plants the proper treatment 
and they will respond. One of the greatest lessons that each grower must 



,8o FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

learn is to imitate natural temperatures to a certain extent; then failures will 
be few and the success great. We cannot expect success .f on startmg to iorce 
a plant we rush on too mucii heat before it gets acclimatized or before the root 
action begins. There will be no end of trouble if Strawberries are brought 
along in an atmosphere that is too close and humid While good foliage is 
necessary both for the development ..f root action and for the fruit, yet .1 an 
over-abundance of foliage is encouraged by too much heat and moisture the 
fruit will suffer. It will withstand a fairly brisk temperature after the fruit 
is set but high temperature slu.uld be avoided before that. This may seem 
slow work but the crop will more than repay even if it does take a lew days 
longer to mature. If brought along in a moderate temperature until the iruit 
is set and the temperature is then increased by ten degrees the rapid progress 
is surprising. By this method of forcing, moreover, much finer fruit will be 

obtained. , , „ , i r i- i 

I have said that forced Strawberries may be had from the end of February 
to the first of June, but it is possible to have ripe fruit before the date first 
mentioned I have had it earlier; but I have come to the conclusion that it 
is not worth the time and labor bestowed upon it. In the first place it seems 
impossible to obtain the rich flavor until toward the end of February or the 
first of March; besides, the premature crop is so light that quite a number ot 
plants are required to secure a decent gathering. 

Strawberries under glass do not need a special house for themselves; still, 
the berries cannot be ripened up on a bench. No matter what care is given to 
the preliminary work, success is uncertain unless suitable quarters are selected 
for the fruiting. This is nothing new. When I was a lad, it was my work 
to water the Strawberries with a watering can while standing on a ladder, lor 
the pots were ranged on a shelf at the highest point of a leanto house within a 
foot or six inches of the glass. Before I was done I was usually drenched, as 
I had to hold the can over my head, and the water ran down my arms and body 
The sensation was not a pleasant one, and no one will disagree with me when 1 
say that mV opinion of Strawberry forcing was not a high one at that time. 
But the methods have, fortunately, changed. The lad of today, plymg a hose, 
with the water turned on to suit his purpose, can accomplish as much in ten 
minutes as I could in half an hour-and much more comfortably. It was a 
case of working hard and accomplishing little or nothing. 

The plants must be in a position where they will receive the full sunlight and 
a circulation of air, particularly when in bloom and again when ripening their 
fruit. I have found hanging shelves admirably adapted for the development 
of the Strawberry. Most houses now constructed are probably ot iron, and 
the shelves may "be arranged so that the growing crops willnot be damaged 
All that is needed is a shelf wide enough to accommodate a six-inch pot, and t 
a four-inch board is nailed along each side of the shelf, there will be no accident. 
These shelves can be hung up in any house by means of fairly strong iron sup- 
ports made to clasp around the shelves, welted together on top with a cleat 
turned at an angle, to fit over the cross bar or angle '-" °^f -^^^-'; ^^.^ ^ 
Three-quarter half-round iron is best for the purpose, and it will hold the shell 



STRAWBERRIES AS POT FRUIT i8i 

Steady. If the irons are adjusted at the proper angle the shelf will be perfectly- 
level. With such a shelf it will not be necessary to drive a nail, and when the 
berry season is over the shelves can be stored away until needed again. Have 
the shelf irons long enough, so that the Strawberry foliage will be about six inches 
from the glass. The advantage of shelves of this description is that when they 
are removed there will be no marks to disfigure the house. They can be hung 
up in any house, and if they are not made too long, they will not be cumbersome 
to handle. 






Strawberry Sharpless 

This old standard variety can still be highly recommended for forcing, providing strong, 

healthy stock is procured 



SELECTING THE RUNNERS 

There are different methods of treating runners. It is very important 
to secure strong, thrifty ones from comparatively young plants. Good stock 
cannot be propagated from old, worn-out beds. Though fairly good crowns 
might develop out of runners from old beds, the berries will not be nearly so 
fine as when taken from young plants. This, of course, applies to the propaga- 
tion of all plants. If one goes to the expense of growing Strawberries artifici- 



i82 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

all>' the very best is none too good for the purpose. With careful selection of 
stock, berries of enormous size may be had in pots; it is therefore to the interest 
ol tlie grower to procure tiie best he can obtain. 

Select early runners so tiuit the crowns may have time to mature and ripen 
up thoroughJN Ijn Fall. At times, especially in a \'ery dry season, it may be 
difficult to procure early runners, unless there has been watering. If you ha\'e 
strong plants in two-inch pots ready for re-potting about the end of Jul\-, ample 
time will be allowed to grow or de\elop the crowns before the Winter sets in. 
I liaxe Inund that if the plants are grown much earlier tiian tliis, split crowns 
may be the result. 1 would rather ha\e one good crown than two or three split 
ones. These latter are \ery undesirable for forcing, especially when extra line 
fruit is the aim. 

Runners are generally produced in great abundance, more freely by some 
\aricties than by others. There are two methods for increasing the stock: 
\\ hen the runners are large enough or begin to emit roots, fill a number of two- 
inch pots with soil, plunge the pot in the soil and place one runner on each pot, 
sccurmg it with a stone or a peg, or anything that will hold it in place until it 
has rooted. The runner will often extend beyond and form another plant, but 
one plant to a runner is ample. If the runner shows signs of extending, pinch 
first beyond the plant that is layered. They should be left until the pots are 
filled with roots before cutting away from the mother plant. In \ery dry weather 
the pots must be kept moist or root action will be slow. Excellent plants may 
be obtained in this manner. In a moist season extra strong runners may be 
had with very little trouble. 

I have also secured excellent runners by cultivating between the rows, 
directly after the fruit has been all gathered. Soften up the surface, then as 
the runners come away from the old plants, they will readily root into the soft 
surface, forming nice young plants in a short time if the weather is favorable. 
But do not allow these runners to get too firmly established, or they may receive 
a severe check on being taken up. Stock secured in this way should be potted 
up in two-inch or two and one-half-inch pots; a fairly close place is preferable 
until they are established in the pots. A frame is good for the purpose, with a 
light shade, to prevent the young plants from wilting. Gradually admit more 
air as they establish themselves. The main point is to establish them, but not 
to let the foliage flag. In a week or ten days they will be ready for a shift into 
larger pots. Good stock may be secured with either system, in careful hands 
and with attention to details. 

PROCESS OF FORCING, TEMPERATURES, FEEDING, ETC. 

We come now to the more fascinating work of gradually bringing the fruit 
along to maturity. There is nothing more interesting than to watch the steady 
progress of a healthy batch of Strawberries. They will throw up their dainty 
blossoms, that tell of Spring, while outside there may be frost and snow. In 
this contrast the Strawberry bloom is all the more inviting, and the fruit follow- 
ing is a picture to behold. When Strawberry forcing is done to any extent, 



STRAWBERRIES AS POT FRUIT 183 

berries may be seen together at all stages of development, from those just be- 
ginning to grow to the lusciously ripe fruit. 

I think the Strawberry is a valuable crop which should be included in every 
establishment. Even where there is no fruithouse at all, a few batches may be 
easily brought along in another house, where they will give equal pleasure. It 
is the early maturity of a crop of this nature that appeals, for it gives an extended 
season from the first of March to the time when the garden crop begins, if there 
are enough plants for the purpose. By the method that I have suggested it 
really costs nothing but labor. A carnation, vegetable or rosehouse can easily 
be made to accommodate a few shelves, hung along the cross bars with little or 
no damage below. 

Excellent results may be had when houses with different temperatures are 
at command, a temperature of 45° to start with at night, with a rise of 10° in 
the day, or 15° with sun heat. For this stage a vegetable house where Lettuce, 
Cauliflower, Radishes, etc., are grown is excellent. Let the berry pots stay 
here until they get acclimatized, or root action begins, and the new foliage is 
expanding. Then a carnationhouse temperature will be agreeable, until the 
plants are through blooming, with the fruit set; when this is done, a rose- 
house temperature may be given, or higher if necessary. If they are not sub- 
jected to any extreme heat, more air can be admitted when the fruit is ripen- 
ing, and this will heighten the color, improve the flavor, and give tone to the 
berries, two very important factors in the make-up of a perfect berry. With- 
out high color the flavor will be decidedly flat. With a rosehouse temperature 
and a free circulation of air the conditions should be perfect for both high color 
and rich flavor. But these are only two requirements. For poor root action 
there is no remedy. Fruit produced under this condition is of decidedly low 
grade and almost tasteless. Careless watering and poor drainage are generally 
the cause of sluggish root action. A too high grade manure will also cause 
stagnation. When Strawberry roots once become inactive, it is difficult to 
bring them around again. 

Skill and close attention are required when bringing the plants in very early 
for forcing. Later in the season there is little or no diflficulty in procuring a 
good crop, especially through April and May, for then an abundance of air may 
be admitted, which is agreeable to them. The first lot of plants may be brought 
in between the middle of December and the first of January. If they have had 
a fair amount of frost before forcing, they will start up soon. They should have 
a fair amount of foliage. When they make this growth before coming into 
bloom, with roots working, one application of nitrate of soda will help 
them and give tone to the foliage. Give it in the proportion of a 
tablespoonful to a three-gallon can of water. Feed no more until the 
fruit is set, but after this they will take a surprising amount of food to 
good advantage, provided there is not too strong an application at one 
time. It is better to feed light and often, increasing as the plant gets 
accustomed to the process, assuming that the roots are working. Growing 
berries m a six-inch pot means producing a crop under restrictions. Then 
if extra large berries are required, there must be systematic feeding. With 



i84 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

a liigh-graclc fertilizer intelligently applied, better results may be obtained 
from six-inch pots than from larger ones. 

There are different manures adapted to this crop. Claj's, used in a liquid 
form, is a manure of tried \alue. Ichthemic guano as a top dressing is also 
good, in the proportion of four or five of soil to one of Ichthemic, applied as a 
light surface dressing. Bon Arbor may also be used with good effects. Even 
cow manure water now and then will help to bring the crop along; but when 
the berries get large, chemicals are cleaner to use, and give the same or better 
results. 

The first lot of plants, after being started, may be brought into heat from 
the middle of December to the first of January. Where a steady supply of fruit 
is desired, fresh plants should be brought in about e\'ery ten days, and treated 
as recommended for the first lot. Bring the pots in according to the stock, 
but the batch should always be large enough to yield two quarts or more at one 
gathering. This means fifty or seventy-five pots in a batch. 

WATERING 

Good judgment must be used in watering during the short days. When 
the plants are first brought in, they should be held a bit on the dry side. In- 
crease the moisture as the growth ad\'ances. After the fruit is set it will take 
a liberal amount until it starts to ripen; then the plants may again be kept a 
little drier at the root. A better flavor will be obtained with this treatment. 
Nor should the plants be fed after the berries begin to ripen; but during the 
period of de\eloping their fruit they maj' be fed twice a week with either liquid 
or top dressing. 

GATHERING THE FRUIT 

Strawberries should color up well before being gathered. If they have 
to be shipped a great distance it is better to pick them while they are still firm. 
Take the morning or late afternoon for this work, when the weather is bright. 
Delicate fruit like Strawberries, when sent by express, must be packed with 
some care. Have the berries perfectly dry. The best thing to use is the regular 
quart berry basket. First line the berry basket with cotton w^ool and wax 
paper; then pack in the fruit with a perfectly dry leaf of the Strawberry plant 
between each berrj-. If there is any moisture on either foliage or fruit, the 
latter will not reach its destination in a very tempting condition; but with dry 
packing it will arrive in good shape. 

Setting the fruit is very important. There are no insects to perform this 
work early in the season. To secure a perfect set, the pollen must be dry around 
mid-day, and this means that water should be kept off the foliage while the 
berries are in bloom. Go over the flowers once a day about noon with a camel's 
hair brush, until a sufficient number of berries are set. If the pollen is dry, a 
light touch with the brush will distribute it around the pistils. Berries that 
are set imperfectly will not swell evenly; hence the importance of a fairlj^ dry, 
bracing atmosphere while the plants are in blossom. 



STRAWBERRIES AS POT FRUIT 185 



CHAPTER XXIX 



SECRETS OF SUCCESS IN STRAWBERRY CULTURE 

Soil — Potting — Watering — Growing — The Crown — Freezing and Winter 
Protection — Insects — Fungus — Varieties for Forcing 

STRAWBERRY growers of experience well know the importance of de- 
voting their attention to bringing up the crowns to the highest state 
of perfection, and the beginner should learn that herein hes the secret 
of success to a certain extent. The desired results in fruit produced by the 
forcing process are impossible unless the crowns are thoroughly ripened in the 
Fall. Develop as strong a crown as possible, but without overstepping the 
mark with rich food to the extent of splitting the crown. The Strawberry 
when forming the crown requires as much attention as when developing the 
fruit. 

Soil is also an important matter to be considered. While Strawberries will 
thrive splendidly in the field or garden in a light, sandy soil — medium and heavy 
— they cannot be forced successfully in pots with such soil. A good rose soil 
is the best for this purpose, adding one load of manure to three loads of soil, 
in a more decayed state than for Roses. Most growers understand the term 
rose soil to mean a friable loam, a bit heavy, but not clayey. 

POTTING 

There is a difference of opinion as to the best method of potting. Some 
good growers advise to repot from two and one-half-inch pots to the fruiting 
six-inch pots. I have done this too in the past; but for many years I have 
repotted from two and one-half-inch to four-inch pots; then, when they are 
rooted through — they should not under any circumstances be allowed to get 
pot-bound — I repot into the fruiting six-inch size. By this method I get a 
quick and substantial growth. If the plants are repotted from two and one-half- 
inch into six-inch pots, with the necessary firming, the roots will take a long 
time in penetrating, whereas a second shift from four-inch into six-inch pots 
seems to stimulate the root action. My method calls for more labor, but the 
difference in the crop more than repays. Moreover, it has the further advan- 
tage that a stronger compost can be used in making the last shift, and the roots 
will thus be in condition to assimilate more food. Where labor is no object. 



1 86 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 




Strawberry Pride of Red Bank 

Being a local production, tiie sterling qualities of this variety may not be so widely known as 
they deserve. I unhesitatingly class this as one of the very best for growing under glass 



STRAWBERRIES AS POT FRUIT 187 

this method is undoubtedly the best. This is no theory of mine; I am speakmg 
from practical experience. The plants will make a quick growth with strong 
crowns. 

Perfect drainage is necessary when placing the plants in the fruiting pots. 
Strawberries need an abundance of water when they are developing their crowns 
and again when they are being forced. The surplus water must have a free 
outlet. If a plant is not looking happy, clogged drainage will generally be 
found to be the cause. I place about one inch of drainage in a six-inch pot, 
putting a fairly large crock in the bottom, with a sprinkling of soot, to prevent 
worms from working their way through and ruining the soil; the soot will also 
benefit the plants. The soil may be further improved by a light application 
of a fertilizer, especially at the last shift. But do this sparingly, for when the 
plants are rooted and more food seems necessary, it is an easy matter to give a 
watering with Clay's manure (in the proportion of a small handful to three 
gallons of water) or with Bon Arbor; either of these will stimulate the growth of 
the foliage, which should have good substance and look dark and healthy. Thom- 
son's manure is also excellent for building up a good growth; it should be mixed 
with the compost, about three or four pounds to a good wheelbarrow load, 
for the final potting, while about half the quantity should be used when repot- 
ting from small pots in the four-inch size. Or take less of Thomson's and add 
a small sprinkling of wood ashes, soot and bone meal, a mixture that will pro- 
duce a steady, uniform growth. Bone meal is excellent because of its lasting 
qualities. The quantity to apply of course depends on conditions, and each 
grower must consult the needs of his plants. A weak plant takes less than a 
strong one. The nature of the soil must also be taken into account. But the 
quantities I have mentioned are on the safe side. 

The condition of the soil must also be noted. The compost should be 
moist enough to firm well, without baking. If it is in the proper friable con- 
dition there is not much danger of potting too firmly. First put some suitable 
material over the drainage, to prevent the finer soil from percolating through, 
as this would eventualh^ clog up, in the final potting. Broken pieces of sod 
are best for this purpose, as it keeps the soil above in place, and benefits the roots 
as they strike through. 

When the plants are in their fruiting pots, the best location for them is 
where they are sheltered from the north-east winds and receive the full sun from 
morning until night. They may stand pot to pot until the foliage begins to 
■crowd, when they must be given more space; they should now be set on a bed 
of ashes, which is a preventive against worms. I do not approve of plung- 
ing the pots while the plants are growing, for in a prolonged wet spell they will 
not dry out. Although they may become dry oftener than when plunged in 
ashes or any other open material, yet this will not hurt them, but will rather 
'do them good, so long as they do not suff'er from want of moisture; they can be 
easily watered with the hose. Proper watering is one of the fundamental prin- 
ciples in the treatment of all plant life. The successful grower is the man who 
has thoroughly learned this art — when to give and when to withhold; good 
root action depends on this, and without such action we face defeat. With 



i88 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

sluggish root action feeding is of little avail, and is even hurtful, for the nutri- 
ment has to be carried up through the roots to the foliage, and from the foliage 
to the fruit. If the plants have been carried through the Winter in full health, 
they are ready to respond when called upon, and will begin to grow vigorously 
in a short time. Toward Fall, when the crowns are fully de\e!oped, less water 
will be needed, but the foliage must not be allowed to wilt. 

Nature must also be allowed to do her share of the work, never forgetting 
the natural habits and requirements of our plants. Frost is essential to a good 
berry crop. I have known extra early batches to be started without any frost, 
drying the plants off enough to ripen and arrest growth, but this treatment is- 
not a satisfactory one, and the crop will hardly repay the labor spent upon it. 
The plants will stand ten degrees of frost with benefit, if the foliage is protected 
against the sun's rays, and the pots against damage by the cold. Where cold- 
frames are available, the pots can be plunged into them in a bed of coal ashes. 
During severe freezing cover with the sash and provide other protection, as 
necessary. The burying of the pots not only avoids a possible breakage by the 
frost, but the moist ashes around them keep the roots in a comfortable condi- 
tion. When Strawberries can be carried through their dormant period with- 
out watering, the roots will be much healthier. If they are stored in a dry 
atmosphere, watering will probably be necessary, for it is not well to let them 
get over dry, even when dormant. If there is no coldframe at hand, they may 
be plunged into the ground outside until they have had eight to ten degrees of 
frost. They should be screened in some way, so that the sun will not shine 
directly on the foliage when in a frozen state. After they have had their allow- 
ance of frost, they may be stored in a coldhouse — a late grapery, for instance; 
but the pots should still be plunged either into ashes or moist sand, for the bene- 
fit accruing to the plant when the roots are kept in a moist, even condition is 
really surprising. Strawberries prepared for forcing in this way should be in 
excellent condition and respond readily to further treatment. But all the de- 
tails I have enumerated are necessary for a good crop of high grade fruit. 

INSECTS— FUNGUS 

Insects are not, as a rule, very troublesome. Red spider is one of the worst 
enemies, if allowed to spread; but it can be kept down easily with systematic 
spraying of the foliage every bright day until the plants begin to bloom, and 
again after the fruit is set. Care should also be exercised in airing and water- 
ing, for if Strawberries are in any way checked, they fall an easy prej- to red 
spider. Green (ly causes trouble at times, especially during a long, cloudy spell. 
Fumigation is here the only remedy and as a safeguard it may be well to resort 
to it just before the plants come into bloom. An attack by green fly at the 
flowering stage is a serious misfortune, for that is a period when fumigation is 
not advisable. 

Fungus is more troublesome in some sections of the country than in others. 
The fungus most to be dreaded is that commonly known as leaf spot. It attacks 
the foliage, and will work havoc if not checked, weakening the constitution of 



STRAWBERRIES AS POT FRUIT 189 

the plant. Bordeaux mixture or copper solution sprayed on the foliage will 
check it. The grower must be on his guard in the Fall, when the stock is pre- 
pared for forcing; but when the plants are taken inside the foliage is generally 
fairly free from any disease or fungous growth. 

VARIETIES FOR FORCING 

There are a number of varieties that will submit to the forcing process; 
but as it is not necessary to have many kinds, those should be selected that are 
known to give the best results. The blossoms of all Strawberries are either 
hermaphrodite (perfect) or pistillate (imperfect). The pistillate varieties are 
absolutely worthless for forcing purposes. Even with some that are classed as 
perfect-flowered varieties the pollen is very meager and cannot be relied upon 
for very early forcing. It is therefore best to select those kinds that produce 
a good supply of pollen. 

Marshall has stood the test for many years as an ideal forcing berry as 
regards size, excellent color, and, above all, rich flavor. In some districts, how- 
ever, it is not very robust, and in some localities almost a failure. But where 
Marshall can be grown healthy and vigorous, it is one of the very best forcing 
berries today, especially for early work. 

A few years ago I secured 100 healthy plants of an English variety (Royal 
Sovereign), which would have been a valuable addition to our list, but unfor- 
tunately it seems impossible to grow the stock satisfactorily in our climate. At 
least, I tried and failed. Evidently others have not succeeded any better, for 
I have not been able to secure any stock of it since then. It is a very early, 
free setting variety, with large, conical fruit and excellent color and flavor. If 
healthy and vigorous stock of Royal Sovereign could be grown, I believe it would 
be one of the very best for forcing under glass. ■ 

Sharpless, while not grown as extensively in the field and garden as in former 
years, is still a good old standby that seems peculiarly adapted to indoor work; 
it will seldom refuse to bring forth an abundant crop of large fruit. The photo- 
graph (see page 181) shows its make-up. The berries will ripen evenly 
when under glass, which is not always the case when grown outside. 

William Belt has made many friends since its introduction some years ago. 
It IS a vigorous, healthy grower, and free cropper; the fruit is large, with solid 
flesh and good color. I do not recommend it for very early forcing, but if 
brought into heat about the first of February, the returns will be satisfactory. 

Nick Ohmer is excellent for late forcing, especially if an extra large berry 
is wanted. With me, it has never failed to produce berries of the largest size 
and good shape. 

Curiously enough, something promising will sometimes be brought to our 
notice. This happened to me in the early part of August, 1909. A Mr. Rose 
of Red Bank offered to sell me a Strawberry for forcing, recommending its 
qualities and behavior in the open. I purchased 100 plants. It proved an 
excellent grower, building up strong crowns before the Winter set in. The 
plants were brought into heat February ist. They were a bit slow in throwing 



190 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



up their Ijlossoms, but after that their progress was rapid, and I gathered some 
of the finest berries tiiat I ha\e ever seen, sohd, perfeet in siiape, color and flaxor. 
1 cannot find a single fault. The general habit is good and the fruit is carried 
on stout, erect stems. While two or three fruits will ripen up in the pot in ad- 
vance of tlie others, the rest come along in time for gathering, and ripen to 
perfection. Nor ha\e 1 lost a single fruit through damping. Surplus moisture 
has no chance to hang on it, as would be the case in a rough berry. It goes 
under the name of Pride of Red Bank. 

Varieties for forcing purposes can be highly recommended as follows: 
Marshall \Vm. Belt Nick Olimer Sharpless Pride of Red Bank 

There are probably many other varieties that could adapt themseKes to 
forcing, but, as I have said, it is not necessary to ha\'e a long list for the purpose. 




THE HOTHOUSE PINEAPPLE 191 



CHAPTER XXX 



THE HOTHOUSE PINEAPPLE 



Propagation— Culture and Feeding— Watering— Shading— Airing- 
Pot System — Insects — Varieties 

OF all hothouse fruit the Pineapple is perhaps the most expensive luxury. 
It requires at all times a fairly brisk heat, and is a bit slow in giving 
returns. About twelve months from the time the suckers are planted 
elapse before the fruit is ripe, and even then conditions must be very favorable. 
It may seem strange to recommend the cultivation of Pineapple under glass, 
when it flourishes in our Southern States without the assistance of artificial 
heat. Fine looking specimens come to our Northern markets, a visible indica- 
tion of the wonderful tropical climate of the South. The question may be 
asked: Why go to the expense of growing Pineapples under glass, when one 
section of our country has an ideal climate for that fruit.? If the fruit, as it 
comes up North, were allowed to stay upon the plant until perfectly ripe, it would 
be much finer; but for shipping to distant markets, it must be gathered in a stage 
of ripening to suit the destination. No one who has never had a taste of a hot- 
house Pineapple can realize the difference between the Southern product and our 
home-grown hothouse fruit. There really is no comparison between them. 
The Pineapple is improved wonderfully by growing under glass. In any estab- 
lishment where fruit is made a specialty, the assortment would not he com- 
plete without a Pineapple house. Aside from the pleasure of gathering the 
luscious fruit— no such specimens could be purchased in the open market— it 
IS highly interesting to watch the fruit grow and develop. 

In former years the pot system was generally in vogue, although this in- 
volves much more work than planting in beds. It is, moreover, not agreeable 
to handle the plants and repot them when they get large. I find that they 
make a more satisfactory growth when planted out, which does away with 
extra expense of repotting, etc. 

A suitable house is necessary for the successful cultivation of Pineapple 
under glass. The plants will thrive much better if placed somewhat near the 
glass; their growth will then be more stocky, and the fruit will develop better 
Therefore, a very high structure is out of place; nor is it necessary to have a 
wide house. The proportions should be such that during the Winter months 
a night temperature of not less than 65° can be maintained in zero weather 



192 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

Bottom heat is absolutely necessary. The best lunise is a span roof running 
citiier east and west or north and south, preferably the latter. The tempera- 
ture in the Winter should range from 65 minimum to 75 to 80 maximum. 
While the Pineapple thrives in this heat, it should not be dry or fiery. The 
plant wants a moist, humid atmosphere, and will then make a clean, healthy 
growth, but if the pipes are kept extremely hot, drying out the air, then we may 
look for scale, mealy bug, and red spider, a combination not at all agreeable. 
This difTiculty can be overcome by placing a large system of pipes in a house 
of this kind. 

A house fifteen feet wide is sufficient, with a good suppl\' JDoth of bottom 
and top heat. The hot water system is the best, running the pipes under the 
beds in hollow channels. Have the tile or slate over these pipes about one 
inch apart, so that the heat may work through; then put six inches of drainage 
before the soil is added, with about one foot of soil above this. These direc- 
tions apply to the planting out in the bed, which is the most successful mode of 
culture, and by which the plants make a stronger and much quicker growth. 
It will take considerable space to accommodate a number of plants, for they 
are strong growers and need plenty of room. If much space is to be devoted to 
this culture, it is better to have two or three compartments, bringing the fruit 
along in rotation. Then as each crop begins to ripen it can be treated according 
to its special requirements. These include a drier atmosphere and considerable 
more dryness at the roots. I will explain both the bed and the pot systems. 

The first consideration is proper soil. Heavy soil is not good. While the 
plants will make headway for a time, the effects of improper soil will begin 
to show toward the Winter, for the roots are liable to decay. The soil should 
be of an open nature, that can be thoroughly firmed around the plants and yet 
remain porous. I have found it at times almost impossible to procure iust 
the right kind. If not naturally porous it must be made so. I have seen good 
results obtained with a mixture of loam and coal ashes, using enough of the 
latter to keep the soil open. Charcoal, coarse sand and leaf mold are also good 
and will insure perfect drainage. Very fine fruit has been grown in a sandy 
loam — but improved with fibrous sod land used in a rough state. The Pine- 
apple will stand a rich compost, and this must be applied if extra large fruit 
is desired. Ammoniacal manures have been successfully used, especially for 
a luxurious growth. Peruvian guano, used occasionally in an evaporating 
pan, will create a certain amount of ammonia in the atmosphere, which is taken 
up by the foliage, imparting new vigor to it. 

PROPAGATION 

The Pineapple may be easily propagated, and there are different methods 
of doing this. The most general and satisfactory way of increasing stock is 
by the use of suckers, that is, young shoots which come away from the base 
of the parent plant. Some varieties reproduce more stock than others. The 
Queen Pine usually puts forth a great number of suckers, which ma\' be removed 
at any time for propagating purposes, although if left until quite strong, quicker 
progress will be made by the young stock to follow. Suckers for future planting 



THE HOTHOUSE PINEAPPLE 193. 

should be removed by gently twisting tiiem off with the hand; then remove a 
few of the small leaves, and make a clean cut at the base of the shoot, which 
is now ready for potting up. The size of the pot depends on the strength of 
the sucker. Generally a three-inch to four-and-one-half-inch pot will be suffi- 
cient. It will root readily in a mixture of loam and sand, within two or three 
weeks, if kept in a pinestove temperature, especially if there is also bottom 



Pineapple Queen 

The above illustration shows a portion of a house of Pineapples planted in a bed of soil 
1 iius treated, they undoubtedly make more rapid progress than when grown in pots 

heat. It is therefore well to secure the young stock early in the Spring, while 
the fires are still running, or to wait until the fires are again started in the Fall. 
While the suckers will also root at any time in the Summer without bottom 
heat, the stock set out with bottom heat will root more quickly and will come 
on more satisfactorily. 

One thing is to be noted here: never allow the plants to get potbound or 
stunted in any way before planting. A stunted Pineapple is practically useless, for 
It would make an attempt to fruit before being strong enough to support its load. 



194 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

Stock Ironi scarce varieties, or from those that are stuijborn in sending out 
suckers, must sometimes be obtained by other means. The smooth-leaved 
Cayenne is not nearly so prolific in offshoots as the Queen. Wiiere suckers 
are not plentiful, good plants may be propagated from the crowns taken 
from the fruit, although these are not equal to suckers, nor will they 
make as rapid a growth; or by gills, which are offshoots produced at the 
base of the fruit, but these make even slower progress than crowns. 
The two latter methods are therefore only resorted to when stock cannot 
be produced otherwise. 

There are still other ways of propagating very scarce kinds. The old plant 
may be pulled up after the fruit is cut, stripped of its foliage, placed in a shallow 
box covered with some light material, as leaf soil and sand about an inch thick, 
and treated to a brisk bottom heat; the dormant eyes will then start up. I 
have seen good stock produced by this method. In general, there should be 
little difficulty in getting a good supply of young stock at all times, as the plant 
roots readily under favorable conditions, with plenty of heat and moisture. 
The soil in the pot should be kept on the dry side. 

CULTURE AND FEEDING 

The Pineapple grower must absolutely know the requirements of his plants and 
the general treatment they demand throughout the year, if he is to be success- 
ful. I have said that top and bottom heat is essential, especially during t'.e 
Winter. This plant cannot endure "cold feet." The soil around the roots 
should be as warm as the atmosphere of the house. The most rapid growth 
is made from Spring until Fall and more moisture is needed at this time. The 
temperature and watering are important. From Spring to Fall there should be 
70 at night and 80 to 85 by day, with a moist, humid atmospliere. During 
the Winter 5 less may be maintained. 

In the planting out system, which I recommend, a compost should be se- 
lected that will keep porous, and will not turn sour. Pines will not thri\-e in 
a stagnant bed, for the roots will decay. When the root action is good, they 
will take a fair amount of feeding. In preparing the compost, all the ingredi- 
ents that are mixed in with the soil should be of a lasting nature. Blood and 
bone are excellent for promoting a steady growth. Take about half a bushel 
to an ordinary cartload of soil, a fairly coarse grade of bone, with a light sprink- 
ling of wood ashes. Potash is necessary in the soil for Pines. The compost 
should not, however, be made over-rich, for a surface dressing may be easily 
applied after the plants get established thoroughly. 

In setting out the stock into the permanent beds, only strong, thrifty 
young suckers should be selected, preferably such as are well established in five- 
inch or six-inch pots. They should be set twenty-two inches apart, as they 
want plenty of room to spread out. Firm the soil thoroughly around the young 
plant; this will make the growth more substantial and stocky, with 
roots that will perform their work and are not so liable to decay as when 
growing in a loose soil. 



THE HOTHOUSE PINEAPPLE i95 

If a bed of this kind is carefully prepared with good drainage, a couple of 
crops may be gathered before renewing the soil and stock. When the first 
crop is off, a strong sucker will usually come away at the base of the old plant; 
the latter can then be cut down and the sucker may take its place. If a por- 
tion of the surface soil is now removed and a good top dressing applied, this 
sucker will make rapid headway, and another crop may be had within nine or 
ten months if all goes well. But it depends upon circumstances. If root action 
is poor, it would be folly to make the attempt. If the bed is in good 
condition, two good crops may be gathered, with a saving in time and 
labor. The plants should be sprayed lightly in the morning and again 
in the afternoon, except in damp or very cloudy weather. Do not spray 
while they are in flower. 

Feeding requires good judgment. The plants must be in a good, strong 
condition before the fruiting stage is reached, otherwise they cannot bear large 
fruit; light feeding may, therefore, be of benefit before they set their fruit, 
although the bulk of feeding will generally be done while the fruit is developing. 
Excellent results are obtained by the use of blood and bone, also potash and 
ammoniated foods. All these should be applied with a view to building up the 
plant and bringing the fruit to the highest state of perfection. Even a little 
nitrate of soda may be used to good advantage when the fruit is swelling, in the 
proportion of a small tablespoonful to three gallons of water, and applied a couple 
of times while the fruit is developing; this will increase the weight and make 
for perfect finish. Drainings from the horse stable are also good, if so diluted 
as to avoid danger of burning the roots. Quite a little ammonia may be ob- 
tained in this m.anner. In any case, this treatment seems peculiarly adapted 
to the Pine, which will respond freely to it, if everything else is working satis- 
factorily. But it will avail nothing unless root action is perfect at all times; 
with sluggish root action no amount of food will do any good. If the Pineapple 
plant under glass is checked even once, and loses its roots, it may as well be 
cast aside and a fresh start made. While fruit may be had from a plant that 
has received a setback, such fruit will be undersized, poor in quality, and not 
worthy the name of hothouse fruit. But if the compost is carefully selected 
and of a kind that will not readily sour, there should be no difficulty in pro- 
ducing a fine crop under glass. There is no outdoor fruit to compare with the 
hothouse Pineapple as a dessert delicacy; but if it is treated carelessly in the 
matter of watering and airing, it will certainly react and be a cause of disap- 
pointment. 

Top dressing is of importance in producing active roots. The same material 
as that recommended for the bed should be given, although a larger quantity 
of blood and bone may be added. When first planting a house it is well to allow 
space for top dressing about twice during the season. The plants will show 
their appreciation of such treatment within about a week by sending their roots 
through the soil with new energy and more intense color to the foliage. While 
plants cannot talk, as is often said, their actions occasionally speak plainer than 
words. If we watch plant life closely, we may learn many valuable lessons from 
their mute behavior. 



196 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

WATERING 

Pines thrive nuicli better and make a more substantial growth if they are 
kept on the dry side; they will not endure an over-supply of moisture at the 
roots. "\ et if they are Iieaitliy, especially during tiic Summer months, when 
they should be making rapid headway, they will take considerably more moist- 
ure than when in poor condition for want of the necessary bottom heat or atmos- 
phere, or both; in this case they cannot e\aporate any large quantit\- of moisture, 
and too much of it then will fa\or decay. But enough water should be given 
to moisten the bed from top to bottom; this soaking through is important, 
for the bottom heat will absorb moisture, and merely a light watering will gi\e 
a moist surface, with a dry bottom, a combination that is by no means satis- 
factory to the plant, and would bar e\entual success. Therefore, water thor- 
oughly once, and no more until absolutely necessary. As during the Winter 
the plants make slower progress they want less moisture at the roots, but they 
will withstand a good supply of it in the atmosphere, in the way of dampening 
down the walls, walks and all corners. Dry corners are a breeding place for 
undesirable insects. While growth is less active in the short days, we must 
remember that the Pineapple has no resting period, from the time the sucker 
is planted until the fruit is matured; therefore, it should not be allowed to get 
dried out to the extent of checking the growth. Moreover, during the Winter 
months the water must be of about the same temperature as the house; there 
is nothing worse than to apply cold water either to the roots or the foliage in 
the Winter months, as this causes a chill. 



SHADING 

The pineapplehouse will withstand all the light and sun it can get during 
four or five months of the Winter, but from Spring until Fall it must have a 
light shade. This may be secured either with roller shades or by painting the 
glass with naphtha and white lead, just enough to break the strong raj'S of the 
sun; otherwise the foliage will burn and cause disfigurement, with serious dam- 
age to the plant. Watch the foliage very closely in Spring, and as soon as it 
turns a bit brown the shade should be given. Again in the Fall the foliage needs 
attention. If naphtha and white lead is used, it should be removed by degrees, 
to accustom the foliage gradually to the sunlight. This will avoid the risk of 
scalding or disfigurement, that would remain as an eyesore all through the 
Winter, aside from weakening the plant. 

FEEDING 

Feeding will depend on circumstances. If the roots are lively, more food 
can be given, which will increase the size of the fruit. Every grower, of course, 
wants fruit of the largest size, and this can be obtained only by perfect root 
action and systematic feeding. Although I do not think it is wise to use much 
liquid manure from the farmyard, yet it may be applied a couple of times to 



THE HOTHOUSE PINEAPPLE 



197 




Pineapple Smooth-Leaf Cayenne 
A fully matured Pineapple, grown under glass. This fruit is wonderfully 
improved by hothouse treatment 



igS FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

good purpose; chemicals, also, are effective and keep the beds in an open, porous 
condition. Ammoniated manures and potash promote the healthy growth of 
Pines. Iclithcmic guano, in the proportion of one part of guano to ten of soil, 
may be applied as a light dressing whenever the plants are in need of water, 
for it is best to water this in as soon as put on. Clay's manure, however, is 
best adapted for using in tlie water, a small handful to a three-gallon can of 
water. 

AIRING 

Proper airing requires good judgment. Carelessness here will destroy 
otherwise good work, particularly in the Spring, when we have sharp, cutting 
winds. At this time no more air should be admitted than is really necessary'. 
There are two points to be borne in mind here: in the first place, if so much air 
is admitted as to lower the temperature suddenly, it would cause a se\ere check; 
and in the second place, it would cause too dry an atmosphere, which would 
not be agreeable to these hothouse plants. The best plan to follow is to admit 
a crack of air when the temperature registers 78° or 80°; then allow it grad- 
ually to climb up to 85 with sun, adding a trifle more air if necessary. Keep 
the house in a fairly steady condition, with plenty of moisture all through the 
growing season, or until the fruit begins to ripen, when a drier atmosphere should 
be maintained, with less water at the roots. This will cause a much richer 
flavor. The perfume of the Pineapple as it begins to ripen is very pleasant. 
As the fruit gets colored it may be cut, and it is improved by being hung up 
in the house for a day or two before using; it will then be thoroughly softened 
and may be eaten with a spoon. It will be found full of rich juice, with an 
exquisite flavor, which must be tasted to be appreciated. 

Stock for replanting should not be lost sight of. Much time may be saved 
by having good, thrifty young suckers in six-inch pots ready to replant whenever 
the old plants are discarded. Then it will take only a day or two to put in new 
soil, allowing a day more for it to warm up before setting in the new plants. 

A grower following the methods herein described may be reasonably sure 
of success, for we have an ideal climate for the culture of Pines, and all they 
need at our hands is care and good treatment. 

POT SYSTEM 

More Pines have probably been cultivated under the pot system in former 
years than in any other way. I gained my first experience with them in this 
way and with the same climatic conditions under which I was working then, 
I should prefer it. Climate of any kind certainly has a wonderful influence upon 
plant life, even though it be under a glass roof. 1 do not gainsay the advisa- 
bility of confining the Pineapple plants to pots in a moist, moderate climate 
like that of England, where at times very little fire heat is needed, especially 
in the south, and where there is much more moisture in the atmosphere, as 
compared with the American climate. What applies to one climate may there- 
fore not be suitable to another, and while I shall indicate the methods of pot 



THE HOTHOUSE PINEAPPLE ipp 

culture, I do not hesitate to say that I prefer the planting out here in our drier 
atmosphere. It involves less trouble, and the plants will make a quicker and 
stronger growth. 

The mstructions as to soil, perfect drainage, etc., given for bed planting 
apply also to pot culture. The size of the pots should be taken into considera- 
tion. A twelve-inch pot is ample for the final shift, or what is generally called 
the fruiting pot. Nor is it well to give too small shifts, as the potting soil is 
best used in a fairly rough state. Repot from six-inch to nine-inch and from 
nine-inch to eleven-inch or twelve-inch, thus allowing space to use the compost 
m a rough, lumpy state. Firm potting is essential, and the watering should be 
done carefully until the roots penetrate through the new compost. Do not 
pot Pines in cold soil — warm it up first. I need not go into details here as to 
feeding and general culture, for what is good for the Pine in the bed is also good 
for the Pine in the pot. The latter may require somewhat more feeding, but 
otherwise the culture is the same. Bottom heat is equally essential for' best 
results. While we might grow a few Pines in one end of a plantstove, without 
bottom heat, there would be no comparison between the two. The same shaped 
beds as recommended for planting out will be about right for the pot system. 
Plunge the pots into some light material; tanbark is excellent and will keep 
wholesome for a year, and the slight odor given off by the bark seems agreeable 
to the pmes. The most important point to bear in mind, here as elsewhere, 
is perfect drainage. The pots should be carefully crocked, so as to ensure a 
perfect outlet for all surplus water, particularly when transferring to the fruit- 
mg pot, for the plants will remain in these, their largest pots, for a long time. 
If a Pineapple plant is not looking happy, the cause will generally be found in 
clogged or imperfect drainage, showing plainly the importance of this simple 
matter. 

INSECTS 

Insects are not, as a rule, very troublesome in the pinestove, if the proper 
amount of moisture has been maintained. The best antidote is a steady tem- 
perature with enough moisture to keep up a healthy growth. Very curiously, 
scale attacks a sickly plant in preference to a healthy one. But in any case, a 
sharp watch should be kept for any insects that may appear and means should 
be adopted at once to check their spread, but there is not, much danger of this 
if the spray or syringe is used effectively. It is fortunate that this is so, 
for the pmeapplehouse when the plants are full-grown is more like a little 
forest than a collection of plants. The cheapest way and the one best for the 
health of the plants, is to adopt precautionary measures, even though the plants 
be clean. I have found a weak solution of whale oil soap for syringing the 
foliage, say once in three or four weeks, admirably effective in "keeping the 
foliage clean and healthy: a piece of soap about the size of an egg to four gal- 
lons of water. 

Mealy bug should be watched closely, for it will increase very rapidly in 
the pmestove temperature. It works its way around the axils of the leaves and 
then into the fruit. There is also a fine scale which is even more destructive 



200 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

than nieal>' bug if allowed to go on unchecked. This white scale usually 
appears on sickly plants, or is caused b\ too dry an atmosphere, or the two to- 
gether favor its rapid spread. But with initiatory methods that are disagree- 
able to insect life there should be little trouble in keeping the plants free from 
these pests. Red spider will also play havoc with careless management. The 
best way to fight these pests is never to allow them to establish themselves. 

A good pre\enti\e against mealy bug, red spider, etc., is a spray once in a 
while with any of the insecticides recommended for that purpose. The pine- 
stove, to be successful, must be kept free from all noxious insects, and this will 
be an easy matter if taken in hand in time. 

VARIETIES 

Although there are quite a number of Aarieties under culti\-ation, it is not 
necessary for the indi\idual grower to have a large assortment. About half a 
dozen of the kinds best adapted for hothouse work is sufficient. The stock should 
also be selected with a view to pot or bed culture, for some varieties are stub- 
born to handle, especially when the foliage gets large. Where the Pines are 
planted in beds, the spiny margin of the leaf does not matter so much as in 
potting, but it is not very pleasant to repot a plant with rough, jaggy foliage. 
Howe^•er, some of the varieties with the spiny margin leaf are excellent for fruit- 
ing under glass. 

One of the best for pot work and easiest to handle is Smooth-Leaf Cayenne, 
which is very fine either for growing in pots or planting out. Unfortunately, 
it is very shy in producing stock, often refusing to throw out suckers. But 
Queen Pineapple will always produce an abundance of excellent stock. Both 
of these kinds have been grown for many years, and are still as good as any for 
fruithouse work. 

Charlotte Rothschild has been classed as an extremeh' large Queen; I have 
known it to produce fruit weighing from seven to ten pounds each. Although 
it bears the Rothschild name, its history is somewhat doubtful; it is supposed 
to have originated in Baron Rothschild's garden near Paris. 

Lady Beatrix Lambton is a variety raised at Lambton Castle, Scotland, 
about i860; it also has produced some very large fruit. Mr. Hunter, while 
gardener at Lambton Castle, is said to have picked a fruit of this variety weigh- 
ing over eleven pounds ! 

The following list gives a sufficient assortment and may be relied upon for 
forcing purposes: Queen, Smooth-Leaf Cayenne, Lady Beatrix Lambton, 
Charlotte Rothschild, Enville, Lord Carrington, and Black Jamaica. The two 
best among these are Queen and Smooth-Leaf Cayenne. 



VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



FORCING OF LETTUCE 203 



CHAPTER XXXI 



VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS— FORCING OF LETTUCE 

Treatment of Lettuce and How to Keep a Constant Supply — Soil for 
Vegetable House — Distance — Temperature — ^Airing — Feeding- 
Watering — Diseases — Varieties of Lettuce for 
Growing Under Glass 

PROBABLY all establishments make provision for vegetables. Where 
fruit is grown out of season, there will also be accommodations for 
the Winter crop of vegetables, which are just as essential as the fruit. 
The two crops will work in harmony, and no estabhshment is complete unless 
it can produce a liberal supply of vegetables at all seasons of the year. There 
is always a brisk demand for these products of the soil and commercial groweis 
have long since undertaken to satisfy it all the year round. During the past 
few yea.TS mammoth houses have been built for this purpose. Fifteen or twenty 
years ago such structures would have been considered mere folly. I am not 
in a position to state the exact increase in this line of hothouse work, but I know 
that its growth has been phenomenal, a convincing proof that the consumers' 
demands yearly grow larger and larger. While the Northern grower has to 
compete with the Southern outdoor product, the latter cannot compare in qual- 
ity with that emanating from houses especially built for the purpose. 

I do not class vegetables as a luxury, but rather as a necessity of life, and it 
is not an expensive undertaking to grow them. The requirements in fuel are 
trifling when compared with those of many of our exotic houses, the temperatures 
needed being entirely different. Much credit is due to the commercial grower 
for advancing and popularizing the indoor product, which is sent to the open 
market where the consumer may see and appreciate its standard of excellence. 
Private establishments have probably been growing vegetables and salads ever 
.since greenhouses came into use, but these are not, as a rule, sent to market. 
This private industry, therefore, has had little effect in educating consumers in 
general to appreciate the hothouse product. Artificial market gardening brings 
in fair returns, aside from providing steady labor for a large number of hands. 
Many years ago it was thought necessary to have the salad growing up near the 
:glass, but we now know from experience that some of the best results are ob- 
tained in the enormous houses built especially for the purpose of vegetable 
>culture. 



204 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

In making preparations for growing vegetables under glass, eacli grower 
will be governed by the circumstances peculiar to his case. If a commercial 
enterprise is intended, the greater returns will come with the larger house; but 
for private purposes tiie man in charge will proi^aijly know best the needs of the 
table he is to supply. Some families will require more salads than others, and 
when the necessary \egetables are scarce thej' seemingly consume to the limit. 

\\'hate\er style of iiouse is contemplated, let it be a light one, with plenty 
of sun from morning till night. A location of this kind is necessary in order to 
produce good vegetables and salads. Some of the old-style houses, with enough 
lumber in them to build an ordinary dwelling, have more than half of their sun 
shut off in the short days, by woodwork and rafters. Most of these have, for- 
tunately, now passed along the way of things that have outlived their useful- 
ness, and more suitable structures are reared at the present day. 

Great credit is due, as I have already said, to the different growers for im- 
proving the varieties. Take Lettuce, for instance: I do not think that I am 
overstepping the mark when I say that it is now forced by the millions as com- 
pared with thousands a few years ago. This huge expansion may be explained 
by the fact that the improvement in greenhouse construction, with the increased 
and better facilities, has stimulated the growers to improve their products 
correspondi ngl j\ 

Vegetables have been grown in every conceivable kind of structure — leanto, 
three-quarter span, span roof, and years ago the sunken greenhouse or pit 
was much in vogue. The most satisfactory house, however, for the forcing 
season through, is a span roof about twenty feet wide and fifty or more 
feet long, according to the requirements. A vegetable house may run east 
and west or north and south; the latter is preferable, as it gives more even 
sunlight on each side. But where the location demands it, the house may 
run east and west without detriment to the stock, if judgment is used in 
planting. Tall vegetables, such as Tomatoes, etc., may be planted in rows 
crosswise of the house, thus allowing the sun to shine between, which will 
help to firm up the growth. 

There is quite a variety of vegetables that will respond to indoor culture. 
The staples, which I may call the bread-and-butter kinds, are Lettuce, Cucum- 
bers, Tomatoes, Radishes and Mushrooms. Years ago a large part of the 
\egetables produced under glass was grown on raised benches, and even now 
this is an excellent way during the short days of Winter for Tomatoes, Cucum- 
bers, Beans and the like, or what I may call warm-blooded vegetables. While 
we may see all kinds of vegetables growing and flourishing together in the open 
garden, it is better in the hothouse to keep the cold-blooded kinds apart. Let- 
tuce, Cauliflower and Radishes thrive splendidly together, and solid beds 
are without question the best for them. They will feel more at home 
in such a location, and both Lettuce and Cauliflower will be much larger 
and in every way of better quality, and, above all, a quick growth will be 
obtained. 

I shall take up each variety separately, giving prominence to those kinds 
that are in most general demand. 



FORCING OF LETTUCE 205 

More space is probably devoted to Lettuce today than to any other vege- 
table or salad. There is always a heavy demand for it in every month of the 
year, and the hothouse produce is generally away ahead of salad grown in the 
garden or open field, especially when grown in sohd beds. The private gar- 
dener knows well enough how important it is to have always a full supply on 
hand. The general public also has been educated to appreciate the value of 
this health-giving green all the year round. Another thing in favor of the grower 
is, that the returns are quick, as three or four crops may be gathered from a 
house during the forcing season. 

TREATMENT OF LETTUCE AND HOW TO KEEP A CONSTANT SUPPLY 

Proper soil plays an important part in the successful culture of Lettuce. 
When growing this crop in the open, we find that it thrives splendidly in a rich 
sandy soil with good drainage. While it will withstand much moisture at the 
roots, good drainage is necessary. If grown in solid beds, it does not often 
require water. Sometimes the surface will appear dry, but on close examina- 
tion plenty of moisture will be found below. This will encourage root action 
to penetrate down, whereas watering often will keep the surface wet and en- 
courage surface roots. With Lettuce we prefer to have the roots work down, 
for then we shall have a strong, vigorous growth, that will stand by the plant 
until maturity. Rich, open, porous soil that will make Lettuce grow well in 
the garden will do the same in the house. Quick growth is essential in Lettuce, 
and this cannot be had on impoverished soil. 

SOIL FOR VEGETABLE HOUSE 

For a vegetable house with solid beds ten inches or a foot of rich soil is 
none too much, provided there is perfect drainage below. A good coat of farm- 
yard manure, thoroughly decayed if possible, seems to suit the requirements 
of vegetables. I do not approve of green manure for an indoor crop. A light 
coat of wood ashes, according to the nature of the soil, may be sowed on the 
surface just before planting time. Wood ashes is, in fact, good for all green- 
house vegetables. 

The greenhouse Lettuce crop should come in about the time when the 
■outdoor supply is cut down by frost, which will. occur any time from the middle 
of October to the first of November, within a radius of about 200 miles of New 
York City. Preparations should therefore be made to have the supply about 
ready at that time. In many private establishments vegetables in frames 
take the place of the outdoor product for at least a month or six weeks. Ex- 
cellent Lettuce can be produced in this way, until severe freezing sets in, when 
it is less troublesome to rely on the greenhouse product. Lettuce for framework 
should be sowed about the end of August; then, if everything goes well, the first 
crop should be ready for use about the first of November. The seed may be 
sown in flats, and for early planting frames are convenient to bring them along. 
Later on the lettucehouse can furnish the supply for the Winter. 



206 



FRUITS AND VtGETABLliS UNDER GLASS 







c 



— -^ 



S P" 



02. 



FORCING OF LETTUCE 207 

Before sowing Lettuce, give the soil a good watering. The seed should 
be covered, according to the old reliable method— putting on soil twice the 
thickness of the seed. The smaller the seed, the less soil will be necessary. 
I believe that much good seed has been ruined by placing it too deep 

in the soil. 

Transplant the seedlings when they are large enough to handle and before 
they become in any way drawn. Place them three or four inches apart, and 
in sufficient quantity to satisfy the demand. They may be transplanted into 
flats, or a bed prepared for the purpose if a large quantity is required, in about 
three or four weeks, according to the season. In early Fall they will make quicker 
headway than in Midwinter. This work should be done in any case when they 
have grown into nice, thrifty young plants, and before they crowd into each 
other. This transplanting will induce a plentiful supply of roots. When 
they are transplanted into their permanent bed for maturity, they may 
be lifted with considerable soil adhering to the roots, and as a result they 
will grow away without a check. It is not necessary to have the seedling 
bed of quite as rich a compost as the permanent bed. If the soil is made 
over-rich for seed beds, the roots at that stage are not in condition to with- 
stand such treatment. 

From the time the first batch of Lettuce matures, whether produced in the 
frame or the vegetable house, there should be a continuous supply from the first 
of November until March, or later if necessary. This may be easily accom- 
plished, with sufficient space at command, by sowing seed about every ten 
days. These subsequent plantings are treated exactly like the first. I would 
recommend the following as a good method for attaining this greatly desired 
result — a steady supply. Every grower has probably some plan as to the space 
he will devote to his Lettuce, or to any other kind of vegetable. I think it 
well to have some definite idea — what I might call a kind of schedule— as to the 
apportioning of space. 

Granted that we have decided on our Lettuce plot, we will divide it into 
four parts, or in other words, make four plantings, each about ten days apart. 
When the space is filled, the lot first planted will be about gathered, and there 
will be plants to follow along in rotation, which will give a steady supply all 
through the Winter. The amount that can be produced under glass is remark- 
able, when crops are made to follow each other through the forcing season. 
Whether the vegetable house is twenty-five feet long or two hundred feet, with 
system we can have our four crops or sixteen plantings altogether, or more if 
we have nice plants ready to replace the crop just gathered. 

It will not be necessary to add manure for each crop, if a good coat was 
added in the Fall just before setting the first crop. In preparing the beds for 
permanent planting a couple of inches of manure may be dug in thoroughly. 
Decayed manure from the horse stable is good for this purpose, digging the beds 
at least a foot deep. This coat should be sufficient to carry the crops through 
the season, but a light sprinkling of wood ashes for each crop planted would 
not be amiss, if scattered on before preparing the bed for replanting. The ashes 
will then be well incorporated with the soil. 



2o8 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

DISTANCE 

Most Lettuce grown under glass is probably head Lettuce ol the Boston 
Market type. Some varieties of this are somewhat stronger growing than 
others. May King, for instance, which does exceedingly well under glass, re- 
quires to be planted nine inches apart each way, but for most other head Let- 
tuce eight inches each way is about right. Have the beds moist when planting 
or just in a friable condition. \\'herc the loose-headed type is grown, such as 
Grand Rapids, a space of ten inciies each way may be allowed. Grand Rapids 
will also thri\e better in a somewhat heavier soil; at least, heavier heads can be 
grown in such soil. There is apparently- more demand for head Lettuce in the 
vicinity of New York than for anything else. 

TEMPERATURES 

There may be a difference of opinion among growers as to temperatures 
for Lettuce. Undoubtedly, if it is kept around 50° at night and correspond- 
ingly high in the day, it will mature somewhat quicker. But Lettuce forced 
to the extreme will be of poor grade, and the gain in time is offset by loss in 
quality, color and weight. As it is the high grade article that is most in demand, 
I cannot see the advantage of se\ere forcing, and I do not recommend it, for 
several reasons. In the first place, the plants are more liable to go wrong, and in 
the second place, few people want those soft, loose heads. Where Nature is 
allowed to do her work, we find Lettuce in its full glory, that is, when the nights 
are cool and the days around 60 . Then why advocate a warm night tem- 
perature? When Lettuce is brought along in a comparatively low night tempera- 
ture, particularly when it begins to head up, its progress will be rapid. This 
is a clear enough indication that cool nights are agreeable both to the health 
and the vigor of the plant. Each grower must, however, use his own best judg- 
ment. When the weather is bright and clear, rather than have a setback, it 
will do no harm to allow about 65°, with a fair amount of air on; but on a dark, 
cloudy day tliis would be a serious error. I consider a reliable Lettuce tem- 
perature about 40 to 45 by night, with a rise of 10° to 15° during the day, 
according to the weather. 

AIRING 

Airing is an important factor in a successful Lettuce crop, for it is naturally 
a fresh air plant, and cannot withstand a close, humid atmosphere. It is well 
to leave a crack of air on both day and night, at least until the frost sets in. 
Such treatment will make the plants more thrifty and less subject to disease. 
Careless airing is one of the first causes of failure, for while Lettuce is not es- 
pecially sensitive to cold blasts when growing in the open, it will not withstand 
careless treatment under glass. The great secret of success is to grow it along 
without a check, from the time the seed is sown until it is ready for cutting. 
The result of careless airing is, a check and other troubles, as disease, green fly. 



FORCING OF LETTUCE 209 

etc., will follow. Airing should always be done by degrees, not admitting too 
much at once. Growers should bear in mind that the temperature for any 
plant should be changed gradually, both in the morning when increasing and 
at nigiit when reducing it. Air should never be admitted to the extent of lower- 
ing the temperature suddenly. It is poor policy to allow the temperature to 
rise more than five degrees over night before increasing the air. There should 
be a steady rise with a steady increase of air. This suggestion, of course, refers 
to the Winter temperature. In the early Fall and again in the Spring quite a 
bit of air should be left on all the time. Good growers know the importance 
of carefully regulating the ventilators. The inexperienced should study this 
matter until they have mastered it, for the welfare of the plant depends largely 
on it. At times airing seems like a nuisance, but it is one of those troublesome 
things that we cannot afford to neglect. 

FEEDING 

It is not necessary to feed a Lettuce crop much if the soil in the bed is well 
supplied with manure; but if the soil needs any assistance, this may be given 
between crops, for it is not easy to feed a growing crop. Nitrate of soda, how- 
ever, is good to give as the Lettuce is beginning to head, for it will increase the 
size and hasten maturity. The most effective way of using the soda is in water 
in the proportion of a tablespoonful to three gallons. Give the plants a moderate 
watering with this, keeping it off the foliage as much as possible. Do not use 
the nitrate of soda when the soil is dry. It is better to give the bed a moderate 
watering first, allowing this to settle, and then give the soda on the following 
day. This applies where Lettuce is grown on a moderate scale, but where it 
is grown in wholesale quantities, the soda may be sprinkled in between the 
rows and then watered in; considerable labor will be saved in this way. But 
in whichever way it is given, a moderate amount of soda is excellent. 

WATERING 

The advantage of solid beds becomes apparent in watering, for they do 
not require water very often, especially after the crop is well established. When 
water is needed give a thorough watering and then no more until necessary. A 
thorough soaking when the plants begin to head will help to increase the size 
and assist the heading. A good drenching at this stage is usually sufficient 
to finish up the crop. No set rules can be laid down in this matter, however, as 
much depends on the nature of the soil. Some soils take considerably more 
water than others. As a general rule, when the soil gets dry, water must be 
applied. 

DISEASES 

Lettuce is unfortunately subject more or less to disease. Much has been 
written on this question and considerable advice given. The Lettuce disease 
has been called sunburn, but this term is misleading, as the disease spreads 



210 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

more rapidly in cloudy weathor than when it is clear. 1 am inclined to at- 
tribute it to poor root action, or cold, imperfect drainage, or lack of free ven- 
tilation, each of which, singly or combined, will bring on this dreaded disease. 
I will not attempt to give any remedy or cure for it; the best suggestion I can 
make is, to give all the fresh air possible and have the foliage dry over night. 
When badly infected, it is not worth while to waste any time over the plants, 
but just pull them up and start afresh. Here, again, the grower must make 
preparations lor a clean start, or the trouble will be likely to reappear with the 
nc\\ crop. 

\\ hen this fungus once gets into the beds, measures must be taken to eradi- 
cate it. A grower \\ith the necessary equipment, or ha\ing a steam plant instead 
of the hot water system, can sterilize the soil and thus kill all the fungous growth, 
Ha\ e a series of perforated pipes buried in the beds and attached to the steam 
system. Let the holes be about one foot apart, and of a size in accordance with 
the steam pressure. Cover the bed with some close mateiial, as can\as, before 
beginning to steam it. Place enough pipes in the soil to heat it up to near 200°. 
Establishments not equipped with steam must adopt other methods. In a 
bad case of infection remove about an inch of the surface soil and replace it 
with fresh soil, adding a light coat of air-slaked lime. But with a compost 
that is free and open, which induces free root action, there should be little cause 
for disease. 

Another thing to guard against is the destruction caused by aphis. Lettuce 
will absolutely refuse to grow when infested with green fly. Various methods 
may be adopted to fight this insect. The very best plan is, not to wait until 
the plants get infested, but to take precautionary measures at the right time. 
Theie are several good fumigating materials that are excellent for destroying 
insect life. An>' one of these used in a mild form before the fly appears is de- 
cidedly better than waitii.g until it is there. There is nothing so effecti\e in 
eradicating insect life as hydrocyanic gas. If this is used once or twice while 
the Lettuce is still young, or before it begins to head, there will be no trouble 
with ll>- afterward, for it certainly makes clean work with the fly, without 
harm to the growing crop. Hydrocyanic acid gas is one of the most simple 
remedies, and, abo\e all, one of the most economical. It is death to the fly, 
even in a \ery mild form. In using it, however, we must remember that we are 
dealing with a deadly poison, and it should be treated as such at all times; but 
there is absolutely no danger when it is handled carefully. A close house is 
necessary; the gas will escape if there is any outlet, either abo\e or below grade. 
If there is any hole where the pipes enter the house, as is often the case, this 
should be filled up with leaves or anything else that will hold back the gas. 
The c\anide of potassium can be purchased of different strengths, up to q8%. 
The kind I have always used is 50 fuse or 50'v^i pure, using one-half ounce 
to every 1000 cubic feet of space. Earthenv^-are receptacles must be used; 
two will be sufficient for a house fifty feet by twenty feet. Place them at an 
equal distance apart, and have the jars considerably larger than necessary to 
hold the material. Gallon jars are not any too large. The operation seems so 
simple and withal so effective, that it is strange that this gas is not more generally 



FORCING OF LETTUCE 211 

used. People are perhaps shy about handling this poison until they have used 
it a few times, after which they will admit it to be one of the simplest of fumi- 
gating materials. It is merely a question of knowing the proper strength for 
destroying insect life. Anyone who has not had experience with this gas should 
experiment with a very weak application at first, gradually increasing the 
strength until satisfactory results are obtained. The foliage must be dry when 
the gas is used, and choose a calm night. The first operation will involve a little 
more trouble, on account of the preliminaries. First of all we must compute 
the cubic content of the house. Then, if two or more receptacles are required. 




Lettuce Ideal 

Ideal Lettuce will be found excellent for growing through the short days. Although not a 
large variety, it is quick to mature and produces solid heads 



the cyanide must be divided into equal parts, and each package tied in tissue 
paper. There must be enough water and sulphuric acid in the jars to just 
cover the cyanide, or one pint of water and one-half pint of sulphuric acid for 
two or three ounces of cyanide. Get the best commercial acid. When every- 
thing is ready and the house closed up tight, pour first the water into the jar and 
then the sulphuric acid, then drop in the cyanide, starting at the far end and 
working toward the door. Merely drop in the poison and get out as quick as 
you can, not waiting to see whether it is beginning to boil up or not. Then 



212 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

Idck tlie door and keep tlic house closed up tight for about an liour, or with mild 
luniigation it may remain closed all night. It would be well to have the cyanide 
broken up in small pieces before using it. 

VARIETIES OF LETTUCE FOR GROWING UNDER GLASS 

There is quite an assortment of Lettuce that will submit to the forcing 
process, but those varieties should be selected that will head up quickly, such as 
the Boston Market type, or May King. While the latter requires more space 
than some of the other head Lettuce, yet perfect heads can be produced under 
glass. 

The following varieties will all respond to indoor treatment: Boston Market, 
Rawson's Hothouse, Rawson's Crumpled Leaf, May King, Golden Queen, 
Ideal, Hittinger's Forcing, Glasshouse and Big Boston. Loose-headed \ariety: 
Grand Rapids, an excellent forcer and shipper. 

This list is sufficient for all practical purposes, and includes probably more 
names than the average grower will need. Each may choose that which he 
prefers, for they are all adapted to the forcing process and good results may be 
obtained from all with proper treatment. 




CAULIFLOWER 213 



CHAPTER XXXII 

CAULIFLOWER 
Watering and Feeding — Varieties 



CAULIFLOWER requires exactly the same treatment as Lettuce in regard 
to temperature and solid beds, but it will be decidedly improved by 
a heavier soil. If grown in a soil that is in any way light, the heads 
will be light, and the plants are also Tikely to be troubled with clubroot; when 
this once sets in it is difficult to overcome, and, in any case, it limits the produce 
to very small heads, or what are termed " buttons," not worthy the name of 
Cauliflower. The soil should be a fairly heavy loam, with good drainage, and 
well enriched with thoroughly decayed farmyard manure. During the season 
of growth the plants should be well fed with food rich in nitrogen. I do not 
know of any vegetable that is more improved by nitrate of soda than the Cauli- 
flower. Give a couple of applications, the last just as the plants begin to head 
up. Nitrate of soda seems to impart color and vigor, with extra weight of head, 
provided there are other stimulants in the soil agreeable to a steady growth. 

Cauhflower under glass proves a successful crop, if planted in a good, rich 
loam, as there is no disease to trouble it, with the exception of clubroot, brought 
about by too light a soil or a check. As a preventive against green fly the plants 
may be liberally sprayed at any time; plentiful moisture in the foliage is more- 
over beneficial. Under these conditions the grower need not worry over insect 
life. 

This vegetable grown under glass is an immense improvement on the outdoor 
product, and it is all the more appreciated for coming along during the short 
days. It should appeal to all private establishments as a Winter forcing vege- 
table. While it may be held over quite a while in frames after the frost has 
cut down the outdoor supply, yet there should be provision for at least one or 
two crops in the vegetable house. 

In making preparations for Winter Cauliflower, one important item should 
be borne in mind, namely, that from the time the seed is sown until the crop 
is ready for gathering, it must not receive a check, either by want of water or 
lack of anything else necessary for its growth. This holds good particularly 
in the early stages, so as to avoid premature heading, for such a crop is small 
and of poor quality and practically worthless. It is not advisable to make too 
early a start, or to plant in the house until the nights have become fairly cool, 



214 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 




Calliflower Snowball 

A glimpse of :i crop ver\- nearly ready for use, growing in solid beds, where thej' feel more at 

home than on raised benches 



CAULIFLOWER 215 

for Cauliflower cannot withstand any great Iieat. In any case tiie results will 
not be the same as those obtained with a normal temperature. Let the weather 
conditions govern the first sowing; this is usually safe from the first to the middle 
of September. The seed may be sown in a flat or in a coldframe. When the 
young plants are large enough to handle, transplant four or five inches apart 
into frames; if the crop is intended for private use, where only fifty to one hun- 
dred plants are needed, they may be transplanted into flats. As they get estab- 
lished, and have grown a good supply of roots, they may be transplanted into 
their permanent bed, sixteen or eighteen inches apart each way. Here again 
preparations should be made for a steady supply. Seed may be sown in suc- 
cession about three weeks after the first sowing, or three or four plantings may 
be made about three weeks apart, if the space permits. If the seed is started 
in September, the plants should be ready for cutting some time in December, 
that is, if they receive good treatment and are kept in a fairly cool, Lettuce 
temperature. 

Cauliflower may be planted in a bed from which a crop has just been cleared. 
Much time may be saved by having young plants ready in five-inch pots to 
set in the place of the last batch; but these plants must not be allowed to get 
potbound, for when once the growth is checked that crop may be regarded as 
a failure. After the plants are set out and established, cultivating the surface 
soil will promote a healthy, robust growth. Every gardener knows the value 
of surface cultivation in open air beds, especially after rain, when the soil will 
work freely. The same applies to inside culture. Stir the soil after the plants 
have received a good watering. This will act as a mulch, preventing too rapid 
evaporation and keeping the soil sweet and wholesome. 

WATERING AND FEEDING 

Cauliflower requires an abundance of water at all stages of its growth, 
taking much more than Lettuce. Spray the foliage two or three times a day 
unless it is very damp outside, for then spraying is of no benefit at all. As to 
feeding, I think it is much better to feed light and often, rather than give too 
much at one time, and more food can be applied to good advantage in this way. 
Overfeeding is worse for the health of any plant than no food at all. Cauli- 
flower wants food rich in nitrogen, but it is not necessary nor even wise to 
depend on one manure alone. Potash may be used in the shape of hardwood 
ashes, which will give color and substance to the crop. Begin to feed when 
the plants are thoroughly established, or quite a while before they 
begin to head. Try to build up a good, strong, thrifty growth before 
the plants show any sign of heading, for such growth is necessary 
in order to obtain good-sized heads. Cow manure in a liquid form is 
excellent, and may be applied two or three times. Supplement this 
with nitrate of soda, used either in the water or sown over the surface 
and then watered in. Remember that soda is a powerful chemical and 
must be used with judgment; while a little of it is excellent, an overdose 
acts as a poison. A safe proportion is a tablespoonful to a three-gallon 



2l6 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



can of water, and about the same strengtli if sown on tlie surface. Cauli- 
llower readily responds to a couple of applications of soda. 

I have occasionally lieard objections to extra large heads of Cauliflower, 
as being coarse, and this is true iftiieyarc left on too long; but if we can produce 
size while the plant is still young and tender, then we have both quality and 
size combined. The heads should be cut when quite solid. If a leaf is turned 
over as the heads begin to develop, to prevent the sun from striking into it, we 
get, not a bluish, but a snow-white head. 

The most destructixe insect is perhaps the caterpillar. In early Fall we 
often see white butterllies busy among the plants, depositing their eggs on the 
under side of the leaves; in a short time these develop into a small green worm, 
which must be destroyed either with a dusting of slug shot, or removal by hand 
before much damage is done to the foliage. Later in the Winter the moths 
will Hdt be acti\e, and there will be no other insects to bother. 

VARIETIES 

The Early Erfurt strain and the Early Snowball are the best for growing 
under glass. The following four will give good satisfaction: Extra Early Dwarf 
Erfurt, Early Snowball, First and Best, and Gilt Edge. Some people object 
to Cauliflower when grown in the open, as it is at times a bit strong, but this 
disagreeable feature disappears when it is grown under glass. Greenhouse 
Cauliflower may rightly be classed as one of the choicest vegetables for table 
use. 




RADISHES 217 



CHAPTER XXXIII 



RADISHES 

A CONSIDERABLE quantity of Radishes is forced every Winter both for 
the market and for private use. As a commercial enterprise and with 
good demand, quick returns may be realized, for two crops may be 
gathered to one of Lettuce. Different methods have been recommended from 
time to time for producing Radishes under glass. They maj^ be grown as a 
catch crop, sown between other growing crops, such as Lettuce, Cauliflower, 
etc., for they are ready to gather before the others are nearly matured. Many 
growers probably follow this plan, especially where the space is limited. But 
I do not approve of such mixed planting. In the first place, if each vegetable 
is growing in its own allotted space, the house will have a neater appearance; 
and while a few dollars may seemingly be saved by this double cropping, yet it 
will be at the expense of quality, for a crop that is allowed free scope will natur- 
ally develop better. I think that one good crop is preferable to two medium 
ones. In greenhouse culture the aim should be a perfect product. If mixed 
crops are grown in a garden we easily attribute any failure to climatic con- 
ditions, but the grower under glass has no such excuse, although he also is de- 
pendent on the sun during the Winter to firm up his crop. 

Better Radishes can be produced in solid beds than on raised benches. A 
Lettuce temperature is ideal for Radishes, and a suitable soil liberally supplied 
with thoroughly decayed farmyard manure will promote rapid growth. Rad- 
ishes will grow satisfactorily in Lettuce soil, though it may be a bit more sandy, 
and if rich in manure a much quicker growth will be obtained and roots more 
uniform in size. The soil must be free from insects or worms that eat into 
the roots. I am a strong advocate of hard, unleached wood ashes for all vege- 
tables, particularly root crops. If these ashes are properly applied, there should 
be no occasion to complain of worms destroying the plants. Aside from keep- 
ing the insects in check, the ashes also improve the Radishes. 

Radishes may be sown broadcast or in drills, preferably the latter, as it 
is much easier to keep them clean. For an indoor crop the best seed obtainable 
should be sown. Radish seed, when purchased, usually does not run even, 
but has a percentage of small seed, which will produce only small, inferior roots. 
Better results may be obtained if the smallest seed is separated by means of a 
fine screen; this will give an average strength of seed. With seed of high quality 
and germinating power it is not necessary to sow it so thick, for nearly every 



2i8 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

seed nia\ then Iji' ciuinti-cl upon tn [(.■spdiul. In this way, also, considerable 
time will be saved in thinnin>i. 

An important factor in Radish culture is the selection of \aricties that are 
quick to mature, with <jood average-sized roots and not too much foliage. Any 
variety possessing these qualities may be used for forcing, i-ladishes may be 
sown in drills si.\ or seven inches apart, and about one inch apart in the rows. 
1 ha\c seen Radishes left lairl\ thick in rows and not pulled until the\ are large 
enough for use, but in that case the quality will not be of the best, and the roots 
are liable to be old before the\- are full grown. The roots should be given full 
room for quick growth and free expansion. If they are permitted to remain 
in the soil after a certain stage, they get pithy and unlit for table use. 

For a steady suppl\- for the table, seed should be sown every week or ten 
days, in suflicient quantit\ to supply the demand. Radishes may also be sown 
in a seedbed and then transplanted. They will stand this treatment readily. 
I have grown them in this way, but I have come to the conclusion that the most 
satisfactory method is to sow the best seed obtainable in drills. 

Radishes may be kept fairly moist from the time the seed is sown until 
maturit\-. They should be gathered at the proper stage of development, or 
wliile the roots are brittle and tender. 

VARIETIES 

The following varieties are excellent for forcing: Early Scarlet Forcing, 
Early Carmine, Scarlet Globe, Non Plus Ultra and French Breakfast. These 
can be relied upon, but others may be added if necessary, to suit individual 
tastes. 



TOMATOES 219 



CHAPTER XXXIV 



TOMATOES 

Planting and Training — Watering and Feeding — Temperatures and 
Airing — Setting the Fruit — Tomatoes as a Catch Crop — Prepara- 
tions FOR Spring Crop — Insects and Fungous Diseases — Varieties 

WE come now to a class of vegetables that require a warmer atmos- 
phere, and in following cultural directions for this crop the grower 
should be governed by the season. For a Spring or early Summer 
crop solid beds are excellent. When the lettucehouse is beginning to get too 
warm for its own crop, nice thrifty Tomato plants, which have been grown in 
four-inch or five-inch pots, may be planted in the beds, where they will pro- 
duce an excellent crop until the outdoor product comes into season. The adapta- 
bility of Tomatoes for forcing purposes has been known for years, and it is 
today one of the main Winter staple crops under glass, both for the market 
and for private purposes. As a forced vegetable (or fruit) the Tomato is pecu- 
liarly responsive to glass culture, bearing heavy crops of well-developed fruit, 
generally of better quality than can be grown in the open field or garden, unless 
the season for the latter is unusually favorable — that is, comparatively dry; 
the fruit is then more solid and firm. When grown under glass, the conditions 
can therefore be created that will give the best results. Aside from the ad- 
vantage of having fresh fruit always at command, it is interesting to watch 
their development through the Winter months, the vines loaded down with their 
weight of fruit when everything outside is dormant. 

Tomatoes are not difficult to handle under glass at any season. Of course, 
they will need much closer attention during the short days than on toward 
Spring and early Summer. I may as well, therefore, confine my remarks to 
Winter treatment. There is no difficulty, as a rule, in obtaining a rapid, luxu- 
riant growth, but this is often more harmful than beneficial. Strong, thrifty 
vines are of great importance, but do not lose sight of the fact that we must also 
have a short-jointed, firm growth, rather than a soft, rapid development of 
vine and foliage. All plant life is, of course, benefited by a certain amount of 
nitrogen in the soil, but it should be used sparingly with Tomatoes, or we may 
get a rank growth at the expense of fruit. Combined with the proper treatment, 
potash and phosphoric acid are two important elements in building up the vines 
with the view to a plentiful supply of fruit, as I shall explain later. 



220 FRUITS AND NTGFTABLES UNDER GLASS 

Tlic first requisite to be considerecl is a suitable liouse. Tiie Tomato re- 
quires an abundance of sunligin, and any attempt to produce a satisfactory 
Winter crop witiiout tiiis will be but a partial success. Tomatoes may be grown 
successfully in any house during the Winter, If situated so as to get full benefit 
of the sun. It may be either a leanto, three-quarter span or span roof. Most 
oi the lu)uses erected nt)\v, however, are of the e\en span t\pe, and, taking every- 
thing into consideration, this is the best for both Winter and Summer Tomatoes. 
The house may run cither east and west or north and south; if the former, the 
plants are best set in rows crosswise north and south, thus allowing the sun to 
penetrate between the rows. Raised benches give the best results during the 
Winter months, for the soil will be warmer and the root action more li\-ely; the 
beds will dry out oftcner, and hence more feeding can be done. W'ith outdoor 
crops the most prolific are generally obtained from medium, open soil, neither 
heavy nor too sandy — what I may call a medium loam. This is excellent also 
lor the indoor beds, especially if secured from land where no vegetables ha\'e been 
growing before. Tomato compost may be prepared about a month before it is 
needed. To three or four loads of soil add one load of well-decayed manure, 
with bonemeal in the proportion of about a bushel to three wagon loads 
ol soil. This should be sufficient to support the plants until they com- 
mence to bear fruit, when food may again be applied, according to the 
condition of the \ines. 

The plants should be started so as to obtain a good set of fruit before the 
dark, short days of Winter come — say by the end of October. The seed may be 
sown any time from the first to the middle of August in a pan or flat, according 
to the number of plants required. When large enough, transplant into other 
flats or into a prepared bed, or they may be potted into thumbpots and kept 
growing in pots up to four or five inches before being set in their fruiting quar- 
ters. This system may require a little more labor, but if the young plants are 
well cared for and kept thrifty and stocky, they will more than repay for it 
when set in the beds, and thrive much more satisfactorily. 

PLANTING AND TRAINING 

Soil tour or five inches deep, on raised benches, is sufficient to produce a 
heavy crop, with systematic feeding. Before planting, it is well to consider 
the mode of training to be followed. For indoor culture the single stem system 
is to be preferred, especially for Winter forcing. The plants may be set in rows 
eighteen inches apart, leaving about two and one-half feet between the rows. 
Have a wire running parallel with the rows, about five feet above the bench. 
Then, as the plants need support, they can be stayed with si.x-foot wire rose 
stakes secured to the wire above. This arrangement will give a steady sup- 
port, with very little trouble. Pinch ofl' the side shoots as the plants put them 
forth, leaving but the one main shoot. If grown in this manner, they must be 
kept stocky and short-jointed, and to facilitate this, the soil in the benches 
should be thoroughly firmed down after planting. This is best done when 
it is on the dr^- side, or just before the plants need water. 



TOMATOES 



WATERING AND FEEDING 



Better results will be obtained through the Winter by keeping the plants 
slightly on the dry side. The best plan to follow is to give a thorough watering 
when needed and no more until absolutely necessary. The Tomato benches 
will often be dry on the surface, but so long as the foliage stands out boldly and 
seemingly full of sap, we can rest assured the plants are not suffering for want 
of moisture. It would, however, be a serious error to allow them to lack mois- 
ture at the roots. I also believe in growing them in a fairly dry, bracing atmos- 
phere, as there is not much insect life to bother the vines, except white fly, which 
can be easily eradicated with hydrocyanic acid gas. Tomato vines do not need 
spraying from the time they are planted until through fruiting; then the 
vines are pulled out and replaced with young stock if necessary. 

The feeding will depend on the weight of the fruit on the vines. With seed 
sown early in August, when everything has gone well there should be a heavy 
crop of fruit by the end of October or early in November — fruit that will ripen 
through December and January, and perhaps February. Apply food when there 
is a good set of young fruit on the vines; but it is far better to feed light and often 
than to give too much at one time. Tomato roots are easily damaged, but 
when they get accustomed to feeding, the strength of the application can be 
gradually increased. The main food should, however, be given for fruit develop- 
ment and firming up the wood. Potash and phosphoric acid or a good grade 
of Peruvian guano will afford good stimulation. But remember that the true 
Peruvian guano is powerful and should be used sparingly. In many cases a 
change of food is better than use of the same material time after time. Even a 
watering with liquid manure from the farm once or twice will not prove amiss. 

Feeding depends largely on conditions. If the plants are in any way soft, 
it would be a mistake to use liquid manure; bonemeal is far better, or anything 
of that nature which will firm the growth, and at the same time assist the develop- 
ment and increase the weight of the fruit. Wonderful results may be obtained 
by systematic feeding at the proper time. The weather must also be consulted. 
Feeding is of no advantage in a long spell of dark, cloudy days, for it will then 
encourage too rank a growth, and this must be avoided. Many growers err 
more or less, at times, in overfeeding, and great harm may be thus done. I 
have learnt from many years of experience that it is better to feed light and 
often. Top dressing seems to put new life and energy into the vines. Room 
should be left for about an inch of new soil, to be applied after the vines have a 
liberal set of fruit. This will assist the development and encourage root action, 
especially if a seven-inch pot full of Ichthemic guano per wheelbarrow load 
of soil is added, with a sprinkling of bonemeal. 

TEMPERATURES AND AIRING 

Proper regulation of temperature and airing may seem a simple matter, 
and such it is to the skilled grower, but carelessness in these points will coun- 
teract all otherwise good work. The Tomato vine, as I have said, must make a 



222 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

lirm, solid growth, and while tliis m;i\ he induced ljy tiic proper food, proper 
temperature and ventihition are also of assistance in bringing about the desired 
results. Tlie one is iust as important as the other. 

Tomatoes may l^e ehissed as a warm-blooded \egetablc and need a certain 
amount of heat to keep them growing in a thrift>- condition, but, like all other 
plants, they want an abundance of fresh air. If kept in a close, humid atmos- 
phere, the most liberal feeding will not prevent them from producing long-jointed, 
soft growth, and the same will happen if they arc kept too warm both day and 
night. While a temperature of 65 b>- night and correspondingly higher by day 
will induce a much quicker growth, the crc^p will fall short in weight, size, solidity 
and color. High temperatures, furthermore, are favorable to mildew and many 
other diseases that attack the Tomato \-ine. A steady Winter temperature 
of 60 b\' night and -0 or 75 with sun by day, with a fair portion of air on, 
is sufficient; nothing is gained by ha\ing it higher. As the temperature ad- 
vances in the morning, or when the thermometer registers 65 , admit a crack 
of air, and increase steadily as the mercury goes up. It is a serious mistake 
to wait until the house gets overheated and then open the vents all at once. No 
good results can be expected with such treatment. The temperature and airing 
require thought and good judgment. In the Fall, when the nights are getting 
a bit cold, it is much better to send a little heat through the pipes and leave a 
crack of air on. Closing down tight all the time without some fire heat, 
would cause the humidity in the house to condense and fall on the foliage, in- 
ducing mildew and other diseases; and if this trouble once makes headwaj', 
it is dillicult to eradicate. Careful adjustment of the ventilators, with a steady 
temperature and a fairly dry, bracing atmosphere, will be found the best means 
of guarding against the diseases that the Tomato under glass is subject to. 

SETTING THE FRUIT 

In order to secure a good set of fruit, it is necessary to pollinate the blos- 
soms; this is a simple operation, but it must be attended to faithfully. Im- 
perfectly set fruit will not develop satisfactorily; it will be either deformed, or 
will refuse absolutely to swell. When the blossoms are ready for pollinating, 
in a dr\-, bracing atmosphere, merely a gentle tap should dislodge the pollen. 
There are different methods in use. I prefer to tap the vine lightly with one 
hand, catching the pollen on my finger, and then bringing the pistil gentlj' in 
touch with it; in this way all the blossoms can be gone over rapidly. The main 
point is, to h&ve the pollen dry, so that it will distribute itself freely. About 
noon on a bright day is the time most suitable for the operation. Blossoms 
treated then will swell away more rapidly. Toward Spring, when the days 
lengthen and the sun becomes more powerful, these precautions are not so neces- 
sary, and a light tapping of the vines is suflTicient. Here, again, there is a decided 
advantage in having a firm, stocky growth, for such vines will produce a plentiful 
supply of pollen, and there will be no difTiculty in obtaining a heavj' set of fruit; 
whereas if the blossoms are weak, on soft, long-jointed vines, there will be very 
little pollen to work with. Such conditions are most discouraging. 



TOMATOES 



223 




Tomato Rochford 

The photograph represents a Midwinter crop growing on raised benches. During the short days 
this healthful vegetable is greatly appreciated 



224 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

TOMATOES AS A CATCH CROP 

There are man.\ private estal^lislimeiits tliat do not set aside a special 
house for this important crop. A jjatch may very well be grown in any other 
house where a suitable temperature can be maintained, with full sunlight. I 
have seen excellent Tomatoes grown in boxes about eight inches wide, six inches 
deep and long enough to accommodate three or four plants. They may even 
be grown along in pots, up to eleven or twelve inches for fruiting, and quite 
a good crop may be had in this way. Tomatoes can be highly recommended 
for this mode of culture. A rosehouse temperature is excellent. The only 
difference in treatment, especially with the pot plants, is that they require 
perhaps a little more food. 

PREPARATIONS FOR SPRING CROP 

When growing Tomatoes by the single stem system, plants that ha\e been 
cropping during the late Fall and Winter are about played out by the end of 
February. Young plants in four- or five-inch pots should therefore be ready 
to replace the old ones; these may be obtained either from cuttings or from 
seed. I decidedly prefer the latter, for the seedlings seem to grow more e\enly. 
In order to have these young plants ready by the end of February or the first 
of March, the seed should be sown in January, for their progress is slow in the 
Winter months. Keep the plants near the glass, to keep them from becoming 
spindly. It is also advisable to replenish the soil on a raised bench, as the roots 
from the old vines will have penetrated through. While fairly good fruit may 
be grown by working some manure into the old beds before planting again, yet 
a finer crop will be assured by renewing the soil. For a Spring crop, howe%er, 
solid beds can be relied upon to yield a heavy crop. Tomatoes planted in solid 
beds from the Spring onward will not require the same close attention as those 
produced on raised benches. Such conditions are ideal for late Spring and 
early Summer cropping. 

INSECTS AND FUNGOUS DISEASES 

The Tomato under glass, especially when grown in any way soft, is easily 
attacked by different diseases; but these may be kept down by following the 
instructions given as to careful airing and steady temperature, with a dry, 
bracing atmosphere at night. If the \'ines are once attacked, the disease will 
spread rapidly. Tomato rust or mildew appears in the form of fungus patches 
on the under side of the leaf, and this alone will ruin a crop in a short time. This 
growth must be checked as soon as it is detected; any of the fungicide mixtures 
will do the work, but it is well to select one that will not disfigure the white 
paint of the house. Copper solution is about as effective as anything else, and 
leaves but few marks behind. These remedies must be used carefully, for the 
Tomato foliage is very easily burnt, and even the copper solution should be 
made weaker than the directions call for. 



TOMATOES 225 

Fruit rot is at times a bit troublesome, but I think it is due more or less 
to uneven temperature in the early Fall. This we cannot control, for we may 
get, even in the late Fall, a few extremely hot days. However this may be, 
we know that the trouble will disappear as soon as we can keep up a fairly steady 
temperature. The only rem.edy that I can suggest is to gather up the diseased 
fruit and burn or bury it. Where clubroot is troublesome, the soil may be 
sterilized; but when Tomatoes are affected either by blight or clubroot, it is 
useless to waste any time on them. 

White fly will spread rapidly if allowed to go unchecked. It was difficult 
to eradicate before the time of hydrocyanic acid gas, for none of the tobacco 
concoctions affect it to any extent, either in liquid form or by fumigating; but 
a very mild dose of gas will destroy them. One-half ounce of cyanide for every 
1000 cubic feet of space— using 50% cyanide— is sufficient to kill white 
fly, with no harm to the vines. If the cyanide is over 50%, use less than 
one-half ounce, and follow the directions given for the fumigation of Lettuce. 

VARIETIES 

Of varieties that are adapted for inside work there are quite a number. 
A few points should be noted here before making a selection. A Tomato in- 
tended for forcing should be solid, with good color, and should be above all a 
free setter. Some fifteen or twenty years ago the Lorillard Tomato combined 
all these qualities, but for some reason it did not retain them and hence lost 
its place as a forcing Tomato. The following varieties will respond to Winter 
forcing, and while some others might be added, nothing is gained by growing 
many varieties under glass. The question resolves itself into selecting a few 
of the best, which are: Rochford, The Don, Comet, Sutton's Winter Beauty, 
Sutton's Earliest of All, Sutton's Best of All, and Stirling Castle. The last 
named is a bit under size, but has well shaped fruit and good setting qualities. 




226 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CHAPTER XXXV 



CUCUMBIZRS 

ACCORDING to ancient writers, tiic Cucumber iias been culti\atecl 
since the earliest ages and lias always iaeen esteemed as a talkie luxury. 
In recent years forcing through the Winter months has ad\anced by 
leaps and bounds, more so commercially than for private purposes, though most 
private establishments now include Cucumbers among their forcing vegetables. 
In former years the demand for a regular supply at all times was not so keen, 
but now they are a necessity through the shortest days, as well as in the late Fall 
and early Spring. While they require more strict attention in the way of treat- 
ment in the Winter months, and are more expensi^■e to produce, yet there is 
then the most brisk demand, and the best prices can be obtained. 

Whate\er the season of the year, the crop must be kept growing along with- 
out a check. If once stunted it is difficult to get the Cucumber into good condi- 
tion again. The White Spine types are those chiefly grown for the market, 
while many of the private places prefer the English or Telegraph strain. Both 
of these are worthy of consideration, and are excellent for forcing purposes. 
The Telegraph would probably be grown still more extensively were it not that 
they require a somewhat higher temperature for the best results; if produced 
under favorable conditions the weight of fruit that they yield is astonishing, but 
as they are not grown commercially to any extent, their good qualities are not 
so widely known as those of the White Spine varieties. Decided improvement 
has been made in recent years with both types as to size, shape, high quality 
and, above all, productiveness, so that now we have a splendid selection for grow- 
ing under glass. 

Good, thoroughly ripened, carefully selected seed is the first requisite for 
success. The seedsmen in this country are doing good work in sending out im- 
proved, substantial seed material, with strong germinating power, that will 
insure an abundant crop, under suitable treatment. 

Cucumbers are grown both in solid beds and in raised benches; the latter 
are preferable for Winter forcing. For the short days it is not necessary to have 
a large body of soil. Equal success may be obtained in different kinds of houses, 
ranging from the mammoth commercial establishment to a house fourteen or 
fifteen feet wide. The demands to be supplied will govern the size of the house. 
For private use a span house about fourteen feet wide will be sufficient. The 
vines may be trained on vertical wires, though a trellis about a foot from the glass 



CUCUMBERS 227 

is more desirable; the Telegraph types, in fact, should not be trained in any 
other way, and the English varieties also will not withstand the same amount 
of sun as the White Spine. Toward Spring, therefore, when the sun becomes 
more powerful, a light shade should be used — just enough to break the sun's 
rays without darkening the house. 

The soil is an important item and it should be carefully selected. The vines 
should make a quick, healthy growth; for this there must be free root action 
and the compost should be of such a nature that the roots will rapidly penetrate 
through it. Stagnant root action is a serious drawback. Sod land soil is the 
best, prepared about a month before being required. The nature of the soil 
will determine the materials to be added so as to get the best root action. If it 
IS heavy, add a liberal quantity of leaf soil, and even thoroughly decayed manure. 
It is not easy to give definite rules as to soil, for even men of wide experience may 
err on this point. The soil in different places will act differently, and it will 
sometimes take several months or a year for a grower in a new place to learn 
just how to handle his soil to the best advantage. 

SOWING SEED AND CARE OF YOUNG PLANTS 

The seed may be sown at any time from the first to the middle of August. 
I prefer small pots for the purpose, with a compost of loam and leaf soil, but no 
manure. Fill the pots to within an inch of the top, pressing it moderately 
firm; then place a couple of seeds in each pot and cover with one-half inch of 
soil. Give a light watering and cover the pots, or if there are not many, place 
them in a flat and cover the same with a piece of glass, with heavy paper on top, 
to prevent the sun from striking through. If they are kept in a close, dark place 
until germination, they will not need any watering after the first application 
until germination takes place; when the seedlings break through the soil they must 
be brought into the light. There will be no difficulty in raising young plants 
during August, as the surroundings are warm; but in the Winter months a fairly 
brisk heat is necessary; a temperature of 75° is advisable. Grow the seedlings 
along in pots up to about five inches. They should then be strong, thrifty 
young plants, in condition to grow rapidly when set in their fruiting quarters. 
The weather in the early Fall is usually fine for a free, rapid, healthy 
growth. The Cucumbers should be ready to gather by the first of November. 
It is not well to allow the vines to carry a heavy crop until they are 
fairly strong. The White Spine types will begin fruiting ahead of the Tele- 
graph varieties. 

For Cucumbers grown on raised benches, it is not advisable to have a large 
quantity of soil at the first planting. If they are to be trained up the roof, they 
may be planted along the bench about three feet apart, preferably on mounds; 
then as the roots penetrate through the compost, add more soil. This will 
induce a lively root action, with a strong, vigorous growth. I do not recommend 
a large body of soil for carrying Cucumbers through the short days; it is better 
to depend on feeding. Soil to fill a spac^ two feet wide and five inches deep will 
be sufficient to carry a heavy crop. Where Cucumbers are grown in a wide house. 



228 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

they slioulcl be planted in rows and trained to \erticai wires; set tiie plants three 
feet apart, and ha\e the rows iixe or six feet apart. 



WATERING-FEEDING 

Cucumbers delight in an abundance of moisture in the atmosphere, partic- 
ularly so after the hres have been started. Nor should they suffer for want of 
moisture at the roots; but they must not be watered to the e.xtent of souring the 
soil, or the roots will decaN. If the>- are kept a bit drier at the roots before 
beginning to bear fruit, the vines will be in better condition to carry a heavier 
crop. A good rule for this, as for all other vegetables under glass, is to give a 
good watering once and no more until necessary. 

Feeding will be in order when the vines are carrying a heavy crop. Manure 
water Irom the cow barn is excellent for producing a good vine and foliage. 
But lood should also be given with a \iew to improving fruit, such as bone and 
potash. Cucumbers will take more nitrogen and less potash and phosphoric 
acid than many other crops; still these ingredients are necessary to all fruit- 
bearing plants. A cucumberhouse in full crop is a handsome sight, and with 
sj'Stematic feeding the vines will bear or produce Cucumbers for a long time. 
The exact duration of a crop is hard to foretell, as it depends largely on the 
condition of the vine. As long as they are hung full with fruit, it would be folly 
to disturb them, but whenever the vines show signs of deterioration, it is better 
to discard them and start afresh with young plants. The soil should then be 
renewed, for it is merely a waste of time to try to recuperate Cucumbers when 
they once begin to get stunted or worn out. 



AIRING— TEMPERATURE 

Cucumbers are very exacting as to airing and temperature, and any neglect 
or oversight in these matters will react upon the plants. The temperature best 
suited to them is 65° by night and 75° or 80° with sun by day. Admit a crack 
of air when the thermometer registers about 72°. Even then good judgment 
must be exercised, and it would be well to admit the air on the opposite side. If 
there is a brisk south wind blowing admit a crack of air on the opposite side. 
There is nothing worse than a cold, cutting wind blowing directly on the vines; 
in fact, they will not stand it during the short days, especially the Telegraph 
strain, which is somewhat more delicate than the White Spine variety. 
The latter may be grown successfully in a somewhat lower temperature. 
It must be borne in mind that both kinds are sensitive to sudden 
changes. Therefore, a steady temperature must be maintained and the 
airing done carefully. The atmosphere must be kept sufficiently moist, 
and the foliage may be sprayed a couple of times a day in bright weather. 
With such treatment the vines should not be sick or puny, nor be troubled 
with insects, which will always attack a plant that is checked through care- 
lessness or neglect. 



CUCUMBERS 



229 




Cucumber Improved Telegraph 

A batch of Cucumbers grown in boxes — proof sufficient to convince anyone that this crop 
may be cultivated successfully during the Winter with a small body of soil 



230 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

TRAINING AND PRUNING 

TIic Cucumber is naturall\ a rapid grower, and if allowed to go unrestrained 
it will soon be beyond control. Considerable pinching and pruning are neces- 
sary. We pinch both to produce fruit and to keep the \ines within bounds, 
and the same applies to pruning. Whenever the foliage gets crowded remove 
some of the weaker and older growths, to allow room for t\ing in the young 
growths. Nothing is gained by crowding. One well-developed leaf is better 
than two poor ones. The young vines may be allowed to grow up to four or 
five feet before pinching out the center; the lead being thus checked, lateral 
growths w ill come from the axils of each leaf, and the fruit will form from these 
laterals. If the \ines are strong enough to carry the first lot of fruit that appears, 
it may remain, but it is not well to allow them to bear fruit until strong enough 
to withstand the strain. Many a promising house has been dair.aged more or 
less by such an error. Nothing is gained by very early cropping; it seems to be, 
on the contrary, a disadvantage. 

The trellis should be covered with foliage, but not crowded. Pinch one 
leaf beyond the fruit, and in a short time growths will extend again from the 
shoots that have been pinched, with a showing of fruit, which should again be 
pinched one leaf beyond. By this method there will be a continuous supply 
of Cucumbers. 

If the vines and foliage are overcrowded, they must be pruned. Cut away 
as much of the old vine as possible, to make room for the young growths, as we 
have to depend on this for our constant supply of fruit. Do not relieve the 
vines of too large a quantity of foliage at once, for this has a tendency to check 
them. It is much safer to remo\e the surplus foliage by degrees. Cucumber 
vines will occasionally produce far more fruit than they should be allowed to 
carry, especially the Telegraph types, and in such cases it is better to pinch 
some off. 

SETTING THE FRUIT 

The Cucumber bears both male and female flowers, like the Melon, but, 
unlike the latter, it need not be fertilized. Cucumbers may be grown success- 
fully without any fertilization whatever, especially the Telegraph strain. But 
if seed is wanted for reproduction, the female flower must be fertilized with the 
male; if no seed is required, I prefer to grow the Telegraph strain without any 
fertilization whatever. The White Spine tj-pes may also be grown in this man- 
ner, but they will swell more evenly if fertilized. Where a large quantity is 
grown, bees are better for this work than anything else. 

The Cucumber crop is not bothered with many insects. Green fly niaj' 
appear once in a while, but an occasional light fumigation will keep it in check. 
Nico-Fume is good for this purpose. Mildew or spot on the foliage is far more 
serious than fly, and much more difficult to eradicate; but if the ventilators 
are regulated properly and a congenial atmosphere is maintained, there is no 
occasion for mildew or spot on the foliage. This disease is usually brought 
about by uneven temperatures, or perhaps by too cold nights, both conditions 



CUCUMBERS 231 

being unfavorable to a healthy growth. When this disease once gets into a 
house, it seems almost impossible to bring the vines back into a healthy state, 
and it is probably a waste of time to attempt to do so. The best advice I can 
give is to pull up the vines and make a fresh start. 

VARIETIES 

The list of Cucumbers advertised is a long one, and has been so for many 
years. A trial of 118 varieties was made at Chiswick, England, in 1861, and 
out of this number the Fruit Committee selected, I believe, fifteen for growing 
under glass. It is not necessary to have a long hst for this purpose; it is better 
to depend on those kinds that vi^ill respond most freely and give the best results. 
Nearly all will withstand forcing. 

Of the White Spine types Rawson's Hot House is the leader, and this can 
safely be relied upon as the mainstay of the house. Any of the White Spine 
types will force readily. 

Among the English varieties Telegraph has been popular for many years. 
The true strain of Improved Telegraph is one of the very best all-around varie- 
ties for Winter forcing. The illustration on page 229 plainly shows the free 
fruiting qualities of Improved Telegraph; this photograph was taken in Mid- 
winter. Among other prolific bearers are Sutton's Delicacy, Sutton's Satis- 
faction, Rochford's Market, Tender and True, Sutton's Everyday; all of these 
may be relied upon to produce abundant crops. I could add many more, but 
I do not think that a long list is necessary for forcing Cucumbers under glass. 




232 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 




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MUSHROOMS 233 



CHAPTER XXXVI 



MUSHROOMS 



MUSHROOM growing, if done successfully, is a profitable enterprise. 
Much has been written by experienced growers in regard to the culti- 
vation of this important crop, but every one of them probably has 
some failures to record along with his successes. I have grown Mushrooms 
for many years, and I know, from sad experience, that one bed may give entire 
satisfaction, while another, a few weeks later, may be a failure, with exactly the 
same treatment, seemingly. Such variation is difficult to explain. Some won- 
derfully successful crops of Mushrooms have been grown artificially, and there 
have been, doubtless, failures just as remarkable. 

The cultivation of Mushrooms is, however, interesting work, all the more 
so on account of the uncertainty attending it. The Mushroom bed is probably 
watched as carefully as any other crop grown artificially. When we first see 
the weblike spawn working, spreading through the soil, we feel encouraged, 
but not until four or five weeks after spawning, when the Mushrooms are break- 
ing through, do we have any certainty that our labors will be rewarded. 
A successful crop is largely dependent on conditions. We may see Mush- 
rooms growing in all conceivable places— in cellars, under greenhouse benches, 
and in houses especially built for them, though there may be many a mushroom- 
house not up to the requirements of the plant or fungus. The essential 
point IS to bring the crop along without adding much water to the beds. 
Where they dry out often and much watering is required, the result in 
most cases is failure. It seems a simple matter to give directions for preparing 
a Mushroom bed. If we hear of a grower who has wonderful success year after 
year, we may be certain that the situation of his beds is ideal for the purpose. 
While it is necessary to be familiar with the culture of this crop, yet the man 
who strikes the conditions agreeable to it is fortunate; with good treatment 
his failures will be few. Anyone who has grown Mushrooms in one place only 
will not realize the force of this argument, while those who have had experience 
in growing them in different houses will appreciate it. 

Some years ago I had, for several seasons, charge of a house in which a 
failure was rare; the Mushrooms always made a healthy growth. I confess 
that I was successful enough to get a bit conceited, thinking that I had become 
perfect in the art of producing a bountiful crop of Mushrooms year after year, 
taking all the credit to myself and giving none to the surroundings. But lo and 



234 FKUITS AND VEGETABLKS UNDER GLASS 

behold! in time I went to another place, where I also was in charge of a nuish- 
roomhouse, and here I had more failure than success; in fact, my work was a 
failure from beginning to end — so much so that in a few years we ga\c up fur- 
ther attempts. I then realized that my previous successes were due more to 
the house than to my own skill. 

Of two houses that are apparently alike, one may dry out much more rapidly 
than the other. The best success is obtained where a house is built into a bank, 
with natural soil overhead, or rather, natural soil above the brick arches. Such 
a location requires very little artificial heat to keep up the proper temperature, 
and a certain amount of ventilation is all that is necessary. In a house of this 
nature the heating pipes should be rather small, and so arranged that each may 
be turned on separately, as needed. 

There are two modes of preparing the manure for successful Mushroom grow- 
ing. The one generally used is to secure fresh horse manure from grain fed 
horses; manure that has been lying around for any length of time and has become 
heated almost up to a state of burning, is practically useless. The quantity 
of manure depends on the size of the house. Large growers can procure it in 
carload lots, while private establishments may get fresh manure from the horse 
stable every morning until sufficient is collected to make a bed of the desired 
size. This manure should be placed in an open shed and turned over once a 
day for a few days, when loam may be added, in the proportion of one wheelbarrow 
of loam to six of manure. The loam seems to assist the spawn in working better 
through the bed. Two or three days after adding the soil the manure should be 
in condition to be placed in the bed. Here good judgment is necessary. The 
manure should be neither too dry nor too wet, for in either case it might kill 
the spawn. It often needs a light watering before the bed is made; it should be 
moist but not saturated. A good way to test it is to take up a handful and 
squeeze it; there should be just enough moisture to keep the material together 
with no surplus water running off under the pressure. Manure in this condition 
is about right for a healthy grow^th of spawn. It should be placed in the bed in 
layers and thoroughly firmed down by tramping with the feet or pounding with 
wooden mallets, so as to produce a solid foundation. Mushrooms will not be a 
success when the manure is soft and spongy. The bed should not be too shallow; 
ten to twelve inches is not any too deep if it is to last any length of time. 

If the manure was in good condition, the thermometer will likely reach 
100° in the bed within a few days, probably more; spawn must not be inserted 
until the heat has receded to 80 or 90 . English spawn may be put in when the 
heat is just below 90 , while Pure Culture spawn may be put in at 80 . Insert 
it in the bed about three or four inches deep and about five inches apart each way, 
using pieces about the size of a walnut. Then firm the manure down again thor- 
oughly. In about a week or ten days place two inches of good maiden loam 
over the bed. This also should be in a moist condition, or in such shape that it 
will pack down fairly solid with the back of the spade. If the beds are made firm, 
they will not dry out so quickly and less water will be needed. A quick drying 
out of the beds is injurious to the healthy development of the Mushrooms, but 
if the manure gets dry, the bed must be watered. The temperature of the 



MUSHROOMS 235 

water should be 75 or 80 . After the soil has been placed on the beds, it is 
well to cover them with hay or straw, say about an inch in thickness, as a preven- 
tion against rapid evaporation, until the Mushrooms start to come through, 
when the material should be removed. 

I am often asked what time elapses between spawning and the gathering of 
the Mushrooms. I cannot answer this question with any degree of certainty. 
I have gathered Mushrooms within five weeks of spawning, and at other times 
I have had to wait considerably longer. Why this should be so is difficult to 
explain. Two theories have been advanced to account for it. In the first place, 
manure and moisture must work together just right for the quick action of spawn; 
then, again, we may be fortunate at times in securing spawn with more life in 
it. If we have gathered one rousing crop, we naturally try to make the next bed 
just like it. There is probably more elation over a successful crop of Mushrooms 
than over any other crop. 

The habit of this fungus when grown by Nature's unaided efforts shows 
plainly that it delights in an atmosphere charged with moisture. In the latter 
part of September, when dews are prevalent, the Mushrooms may be seen 
pushing their way through the pasture land. While the sod may often be dry, 
the dampness in the air from the fogs during the night and morning calls them 
forth. Therefore, when we grow them artificially, we should keep up a fairly 
moist, humid atmosphere, and this may be done by keeping the walls and walks 
moist. 

When the first crop is gathered, a little fresh soil may be added to the bed, 
with watering if necessary, and a light application of soda, and the chances are 
that a new crop will appear within a short time. But this depends on circum- 
stances. Some beds may be kept lively for at least three months, while others 
will not last half that time. No rules can be laid down here but the one: hold 
on to a bed as long as it is profitable to do so, whether it is for two months or four 
months. 

Judgment should be used in gathering, for serious damage may be done by 
carelessness. The best way is to take each Mushroom separately, and pull 
rather than cut it; if it is twisted gently off its stem, the young, undeveloped 
ones near it will not be disturbed. 

Having described the general method of culture, I will add a few words as 
to my own method. Get the manure fresh from the stable and add about one- 
half of old Mushroom manure, or enough to prevent burning. Mix the two thor- 
oughly; leave the mixture in a pile for one day and then make the bed. The 
moisture in both manures should be about equal. Made in this way beds will 
hold the moisture perhaps longer than when made in the way above mentioned 
and it is certainly a saving of time and labor. I have grown many successful 
crops in such beds and have not found them inferior to any others. With the 
proper Mushroom temperature, congenial atmospheric conditions and a due 
amount of care, there is no occasion for failure. 

Proper temperature is an important matter. Mushrooms will thrive splen- 
didly in S5 . or if kept at 60° when the spawn first begins to run, which can be 
detected by its weblike appearance spreading all over the surface, it would be 



23(> 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



well then to gradually drop to 55° as the Mushrooms begin to appear. They may 
develop somewhat more slowly at this degree, but will more than make up lor 
the time in solidity and weight. 

It is curious that while the culture of Mushrooms is so very simple, with 
but few details to note, it is more or less often a failure. This may be due to 
different causes. Here is an instance from my own experience. Some years ago 
two lots of spawn, secured from two different places, were used in a bed. The 
result was that one-half of the crop was satisfactory while the other half was a 
complete failure. This was sure enough proof that the failure was due to poor 
spawn. However, houses handling Mushroom spawn are, as a rule, particular 
as to its quality, since they know well enough the importance of fresh spawn. 

Until recent years Mushroom growers relied mainly upon the English Mill 
Tract spawn, and this is still used by many; but there has been much less demand 
for it since the introduction of the Pure Culture spawn. This latter has made 
many friends because of its productivity, growing heavy Mushrooms in large 
clusters. It is, however, decidedly more prolific by spawning in a temperature 
fne degrees lower than that recommended for the English spawn. Either kind 
may be relied upon to give satisfaction if the surroundings are adapted to a 
healthy growth, and this cannot be obtained in a house which dries out too 
quickly. 




RHUBARB 237 



CHAPTER XXXVII 



RHUBARB 

THE popular demand for Rhubarb, both in and out of season, is steadily- 
increasing, and the hothouse production is keeping pace with this demand. 
The readiness with which Rhubarb responds to forcing has been recog- 
nized for many years, and no wonder, since the plant is not pretentious as to its 
surroundings. It will grow in the dark as well as in the light, under the bench 
or wherever else convenient, provided it gets the proper amount of moisture and 
heat. It will also produce growth in various temperatures, ranging from 50 
to 70°, the only difference being that the stalks will be a bit more spindly if grown 
very warm. From ^^ to 60 will give the best results, and more may be got 
out of the crowns with a moderate heat than if they are rushed along too fast. 

Different methods are used in bringing this crop along out of season. In 
private establishments the roots are generally dug up in the Fall and brought 
into heat from the latter part of December on, about two or three weeks apart, 
according to requirements. After the roots have gone through this forcing 
process, they are useless for further planting. Where Rhubarb is to be forced 
year after year, new stock will have to be obtained either by division of old stock 
or by seed. Rhubarb beds are improved, after being planted four or five years 
in one place, if they are lifted and the crowns divided; but Rhubarb is more gen- 
erally increased by sowing a little seed each year. 

Where it is grown commercially on a large scale, roughly constructed houses 
are used. These are built over the beds, in which plants have previously been 
growing two and one-half feet apart, and have been cut down by frost. Rough 
boards are used for the sides and ends, lined with paper as a protection, while the 
roof may be made up of any ordinary sash. This mode of construction is, of 
course, only advisable when the plant is grown on a large scale. A house of this 
kind may be twenty-five feet wide or more and of any desired length. Either 
steam or hot water may be used to keep up the necessary temperature. A steam 
plant is the cheapest to put in. This method can only be recommended when 
grown on an extensive scale for market purposes, the advantage of this method 
being that the roots will not be disturbed, hence a heavier crop may be expected. 

The main factor in successful Rhubarb forcing, whether the plants are dug 
up or forced where they stand in the ground, is a strong, healthy root. It is use- 
less to attempt to force any roots that are not robust and healthy. While 
Rhubarb is hardy and will withstand considerable rough treatment, yet, like 



238 FRUITS AND \I-GF,TAB1.ES UNDER GLASS 

all other \cgetables, it will respond to good culture, and the successful grower 
will be liberal with manure. A good batch of thrifty Rhubarb in the forcing 
house during the Winter or early Spring is a pleasant sight, and the man who 
brings it along in this condition deserves all credit. Yet the material in those 
crowns must be stored up before they are subjected to the forcing process. The 
crowns may be brought to the proper condition by good cultivation and a liberal 
supply of farmyard manure; it is impossible to produce a strong growth in impov- 
erished soil. As I have said, the general method of increasing stock is by seed; 
but we may occasionally have an excellent strain that is very productive, in which 
case the stock should be kept up by division when it gets to be four or five years 
old and has grown a goodly number of crowns. They may then be divided and 
replanted again. When increased by seed, part of the crop will often be found 
coarse and undesirable. 

Forced Rhubarb is very delicate in appearance, especially when grown in 
the dark; it will thrive here equally as well as in the light, the only difference 
being less leaf and longer stalks; the acidity is also diminished, though there is 
stillenough to give the true Rhubarb flavor. Less sweetening will be required to 
make it palatable and this is a point in its favor as against the outdoor product. 

In selecting plants with extra strong crowns for forcing purposes, far better 
results will be obtained when the foliage has died down and before hard freezing 
sets in. Enough roots should be dug up to carry through the forcing season. 
In regard to quantity — every one will be governed according to demand, although 
in digging up those roots one should secure all the roots possible; also leave as 
much soil as will remain among the fibrous roots. It is absolutely necessary for 
best results to allow those roots to go through a freezing process before they are 
placed in their forcing quarters; better results will then be obtained, as the 
crowns will throw up more freely when Nature has done her part in freezing 
them. The roots may be allowed to stay in the open, but when frozen they 
should be staked in piles and covered with long manure to prevent constant 
freezing and thawing; roots then can be selected for the forcing house whenever 
needed. Any time in December a batch of roots may be put into heat, either 
under a greenhouse bench, where a minimum temperature of s^° to 60° can be 
maintained, or in a mushroomhouse; Rhubarb will thrive splendidly in either of 
these locations. The roots should be placed close together, filling in the open, 
hollow spaces between them with soil, leaf mould or anything else that will hold 
moisture. 

Enough material should be used to cover the roots, and also the crowns 
slightly. Very little watering is required until the growth commences, when the 
plants should be kept fairly moist. A constant supply may be had by bringing 
fresh roots into heat every three weeks, from Christmas until the outdoor product 
comes around again. It takes very little labor and attention to furnish this 
healthful table delicacy. No doubt there have been failures in this crop due to 
bad selection of old roots, which are not suited for forcing. Plants three years 
old are of just the right age, if they have been under good culture in rich soil. 
Older plants may also be used, but they will be slower in starting into growth, 
and the stalks will be much smaller. The best roots possible should be obtained, 



RHUBARB 



239 



for herein lies the main secret of success in forcing Rhubarb that will please both 
the grower and the consumer. 

As the process of raising this crop artificially is so very simple, anyone with 
little or no experience may undertake it and feel reasonably sure of success. It 
is not even necessary to have a greenhouse or mushroomhouse. I have seen 
excellent stalks produced in a cellar with a temperature of 50° to ^f, the plant? 
being placed in a corner where they could be supplied with moisture. What 
other plant is there which will put up with such varying conditions and produce 
a successful crop? There is really no reason why it should not be more generally 
forced even than it is now. All the varieties will submit to forcing. W. W. Raw- 
son, of Boston, recommends Burbank's Winter Crimson for forcing; this, from so 
high an authority, deserves to be noted. Among the others that may be relied 
upon are Mitchell's Royal Albert and Myatt's Victoria. Taking any desired 
variety, the most important point is to have vigorous plants. 



240 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



CHAPTER XXXVIII 



ASPARAGUS 

ASPARAGUS forces as readily as Rhubarb, and the operation is equailj' 
simple. While it is probably not forced to any great extent, yet it is 
most acceptable during the Winter. It would be folly to rely on old, 
exhausted beds and expect them to produce satisfactory results, for the best we 
could get out of them would be a quantity of small, spindly shoots. The mode 
of culture generally adopted in private establishments with a system for Winter 
vegetables, is as follows: Before hard freezing sets in in late Fall, the number of 
crowns necessary are lifted, selecting good, thrifty, robust roots, preferably not 
over three or four years old, for older crowns are difficult to remove on account 
of their tangled mass of roots. They must be lifted carefully, with as much soil 
as possible adhering to the roots. For Asparagus at Christmas they should be 
brought into heat three weeks in advance. It is best to put them in a position 
where they receive a certain amount of light, perhaps under a greenhouse bench 
with a temperature of about 60°. Place the roots close together, run a four- 
inch board along the sides and put on light soil, filling in all the hollow spaces 
with enough to cover the crowns two or three inches; give a good watering to 
settle the soil well around the roots. The returns will be quick, and if the batch 
is carefully handled, it will last quite a while. Where a supply is to be kept up, 
another batch must be brought in within three or four weeks. Plants that are 
dug up for forcing may remain out in the open and be brought into heat as needed. 
Pile them up and cover the roots with soil and leaves or light manure on the out- 
side, according to the weather. This method will give free access to the roots 
at all times. In any case, the roots must be protected or covered so as to keep 
in the moisture. 

Excellent Asparagus may also be brought along in frames, especially if there 
are hot water pipes. Even a hotbed of manure will answer, otherwise the soil 
will be cold and progress slow. Bottom heat of 60° to 70° will bring it along 
nicely. At the same time, it is not well to depend entirely on the hotbed; there 
should be some artificial heat in reserve. When the roots are dug up for forcing, 
they get a considerable check, even though they be lifted carefully, and the shoots 
will not be equal in quality to those of undisturbed roots. It is, moreover, a 
sacrifice to a certain extent, for the crowns are useless after having been forced; 
but there are times when sacrifices are not to be considered so long as certain 
results are obtained. 



ASPARAGUS 



241 



Much finer shoots may probably be obtained by following the method of the 
commercial Rhubarb establishment: Construct a rough house over a bed planted 
with that end in view. This is a good plan where a large supply is needed; but 
it is not necessary for private use, if the roots are grown nearby, so that they are 
not handled much; the method of lifting the roots and bringing them in as needed 
cannot well be improved upon. 

The forcing of Asparagus is very simple, as compared with that of other 
vegetables, although the shoots are sometimes not of the highest grade. In 




Asparagus 

The story of forced Asparagus is told in this picture, 
showing the dehcate, succulent, young 
growths almost ready for use 



order to obtain the best results, the utmost care must be exercised in handling 
the roots before they go into heat. If the soil where they are growing is of such 
nature that a quantity can remain with the crowns, the growth will start much 
stronger and yield a steady cut for a longer time. These roots should be forced 
in a moderate temperature. Out in the open beds it is one of the first vegetables 
to be gathered, showing plainly that it does not need a great amount of heat to 
start into growth. 

I have seen Asparagus roots forced in the mushroomhouse, but while the 
growth may come along all right, flavor is not the same as when more light is 
given. Different methods have been used in former years for growing Asparagus 
out of season. It has even been planted in beds, with space enough between the 



242 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



beds lor a trench eighteen to twenty inclies wide, wliich was lilled with stable 
manure, or halt manure and half leaves; then frames were placed over the beds 
and tiie manure brought up le\cl with the top of the frames. Tiiis may be done 
near large cities, where the manure can generally be had in quantity. I think 
this method of producing early Asparagus was followed on a large scale years 
ago in the suburbs of Paris, France, and excellent crops were undoubtedly pro- 
duced; but the handling of such large bulks of manure invoKes considerable 
labor. With us here it is a question of getting the largest results with the least 
outlay of labor, and this is best done by forcing lifted plants, although they may 
be useless afterward and are therefore a loss. But aside from this disadvantage, 
Asparagus does not require much labor and hardly any coal, as it may be forced 
under a bench of other crops, in space that is not needed for anything else. So 
taking everything into consideration it is not an expensive crop. Any of the 
standard varieties will submit to the forcing process. 



CARROTS— BEETS— STRING BEANS 243 



CHAPTER XXXIX 



CARROTS— BEETS— STRING BEANS 

YOUNG Carrots are often in demand and may be had with little trouble. 
I have also seen good Carrots grown in frames with artificial heat. The 
best sorts for forcing are the Early Short Horn types. For a supply of 
young Carrots during the Winter, a sowing may be made once a month, from 
about November. The dwarf forcing varieties, which will not produce much 
top, may be sown in drills six inches apart, and when the seedhngs are large 
enough, thin to about one inch apart in the rows. 

These early forcing Carrots may be grown eitlier on raised benches or in 
solid beds. They want a fairly loose, rich, warm, friable soil for quick growth, 
with a steady, even temperature. They may also be grown under lettuce or 
tomatohouse conditions, but whatever temperature they have become accustomed 
to should be followed up. There is nothing better for enriching the soil than good 
farmyard manure thoroughly decayed, with a fair coat of wood ashes worked 
into the soil. Carrot land is improved somewhat with nitrogen and also where 
potash is available. 

A considerable quantity of roots may be got out of a comparatively small 
space, and, fortunately, there are no insect pests or diseases to bother them. 
Toward Spring excellent Carrots can be grown in regular hotbeds, although it 
is not advisable to attempt too early a start, at least not until the grower is reason- 
ably sure of maintaining a suitable temperature. From about the first of March 
Carrots will make a good, healthy growth where the temperature of the soil can 
be maintained at about 60 . 

BEETS 

Beets require exactly the same treatment as to heat, soil, etc., the only 
difference being that as they produce more top, more space is required for devel- 
opment. They may be sown in drills one foot apart and thinned in the rows to 
two or three inches. Another method, by which space may be saved, is to sow 
the Beet seed in flats and then transplant into the beds. The earliest maturing 
varieties should be selected for growing under glass. 

Beets and Carrots are not forced to any extent; but the young, fresh grown 
roots are far superior to the stored crops, by which the Winter demands are gen- 
erally supplied. Vegetables that adapt themselves to forcing are certain to give 



2+4 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



general satisfaction. With mans of tlicni the- labor is trilling as compared witii 
that bestowed on other products of the forcing process. A house devoted to 
s-egetables, when kept fully stocked with growing crops, will yield a large supply. 




Carrots 

A type of Carrots best adapted for Forcing purposes. 
One should always aim to select the very 
earliest and quickest maturing 
varieties for this work 



STRING BEANS 



Beans are easily forced during the Winter, and in pri\ate places where 
choice vegetables are in demand they are highly appreciated, as the>- are far 
superior to any that can be procured in the open market. If they are grown 
inside, they do not receive any check; the>- get the heat and moisture suited 
to their best development, and are tender and of rich flavor. Furthermore, 
they are not exacting as to temperature, although the most satisfactory is a 
minimum of 60 with a maximum of 75 . Years ago I saw excellent crops pro- 
duced in eight-inch pots on shelves near the glass in pinesto\es. In this loca- 
tion the soil is of course of the same temperature as the atmosphere, and herein 
lies probably the secret of success in growing Beans under glass, whether they 
be in pots or planted on a bench. Paised benches are therefore preferable. 



CARROTS— BEETS— STRING BEANS 



245 



with pipes running below or under the benches, to keep a congenial warmth 
m the soil; this will induce healthy root action and substantial, steady growth. 
They cannot be grown successfully through the short days when the roots are 
much cooler than the tops. In our climate, where sunshine is abundant, the bench 
system is to be preferred to pot culture, as it requires much less labor. 

As to the variety, a strain should be selected that does not produce an over- 
abundance of foliage, especially through the shortest days, and also those kinds 
that mature quickly. There are quite a number of varieties that can be grown 
successfully under glass. 

Beans delight in a rich, mellow soil, well supplied with humus. Select 
soil of the same nature that grows them satisfactorily in the garden. This 
crop will make a rapid growth with plenty of moisture at the roots, combined 
with sufficient heat to produce a healthy, luxuriant foliage. The best material 
for enriching the soil is thoroughly decayed farmyard manure, adding enough 
to produce a substantial growth. The Beans may be grown in about five inches 
of soil on raised benches, planted in rows sixteen inches apart and one inch apart 
in the rows. Cover the seed with about one inch of soil. From early maturing 
varieties Beans may be gathered in seven weeks after planting. If plantings 
are made about every ten days, a constant supply can be maintained. A tem- 
perature of 60° to 6s° by night and 75° by day is agreeable to a healthy develop- 
ment. Air must be admitted whenever the weather permits, as too much 




Beets 

There is always a call for tender young Beets. The only way to secure a supply 
during the Winter is by producing them under glass 



246 



FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



coddling invites disease and mildew. The latter will play havoc with a batch 
of Beans in a short time, and the same maj' be said of red spider. When these 
once get a start, dryness of the air will encourage their rapid spread. 

The foliage may be sprayed every bright day until the plants begin to 
bloom; keep it a bit drier during the (lowering period, but never allow Beans 
to suffer for want of moisture at the roots at any time. 

Wiien the crop is gathered, the vines may be cleared off and the beds re- 




Bean Black Valentine 

The excellent qualities of Black Valentine have long 
been recognised. It is a prolific cropper, both 
in the open and under glass. Responds 
admirably to the forcing process 



planted, after a sprinkling of bone or wood ashes. If fertilizers are applied 
in this manner, the roots will get the benefit gradually. During the short Winter 
months I prefer this method of feeding to surface dressing or liquid manure. 

The main factor of success with this crop is a suitable house, where it will 
get plenty of light and sun. In such a location, and with reasonable care, there 



CARROTS— BEETS— STRING BEANS 



247 



should be no difficulty in producing a good supply of young Beans for Winter 
use. I do not recommend this crop for commercial purposes, as the returns are 
much lighter than from such crops as Lettuce, Tomatoes, etc., but it is an ex- 
cellent crop for private requirements, and its excellent qualities as a forced 
vegetable have long been recognized. Red spider and mildew are two of its 
worst enemies, which will spread rapidly if once started. The only safeguard 
agamst these pests is a steady temperature and spraying the foliage when the 
weather is clear. 

As to varieties. Black Valentine is one of the best, a healthy grower and 
heavy cropper. Other good varieties are Selected, Ne Plus Ultra, Wonder of 
France, Sutton's Forcing, and Osborn's Forcing, all of which will crop well under 
glass. 



2^8 FRUITS AND VliGliTABLES UNDER GLASS 



CHAPTER XL 



SEA KALE AND CHICORY 

A CONSIDERABLE quantity of Sea Kale Is forced in Europe during the 
\\ inter and early Spring; most establishments, in fact, set apart quite 
a plot for this %egetable and de\ote a good deal of attention to it. It 
may be forced in the open, or the crowns can be lifted and forced inside. To 
ensure thorough blanching it must be grown in a dark place, as, for instance, a 
mushroomhouse. Being a nati\e of England, it naturally does not require a 
high temperature; the crowns would probably refuse to start if subjected to 
high heat. When grown out of doors, it will make a strong, vigorous growth in 
a temperature of 50 to §§ ; therefore when it is brought into the forcing process, 
it will make a stronger and more substantial growth with a moderate heat. 
This particularly' holds good when it is first started up. 

When the forcing of Sea Kale is contemplated, the best mode of producing 
strong crowns should be considered. An open location is to be preferred; the 
foliage will be weak if the plant is grown in a shady place. Any good garden 
soil should produce a satisfactory growth, though it should not be of a very 
heavy texture, but rather a rich, deep, sandy loam, or such as will oroduce good 
Asparagus, with about the same treatment as to manure, etc. Nitrate of soda 
may be applied a couple of times during the season of growth, sown broadcast 
between the rows; this stimulates a healthy, clean growth. 

The plants may be increased by seed or from root cuttings; the latter are 
preferable when the stock is available, as they grow into plants suitable for 
forcing in less time than seedlings. When seed is used, sow it in the Spring 
in drills two feet apart and thin out to six or eight inches in the rows. The 
following season prepare a piece of ground for transplanting, as one-year-old 
seedlings are not strong enough for forcing. At this planting more space must 
be given for full development; two and one-half or three feet between the rows 
is not too much, with three feet apart in the rows. When lifting plants for 
transplanting, the top of each, or the crown bud, should be cut off, as a preven- 
tive against running into seed. By this method new crowns are formed, and 
there is not much danger of the plants producing seed after being planted. Insert 
them so that the crown will be a couple of inches below the surface. Encourage 
a free growth as they come up; a mulch of manure may be given occasionally, 
especially in, a dry spell. 

When digging up plants for forcing, some of the roots may be secured for 



SEA KALE AND CHICORY ,,„ 

249 

stock, although they should not be robbed of many. It is better to grow a lew 
stock plants solely for root cuttings. Medium-sized root cuttings are prefer- 
able to oversturdy ones, and the young roots will ultimately make better plants 
than would be obtained from transplanting older and thicker parts. At times, 
when stock is somewhat scarce, root cuttings are made from plants that have 
been forced, but I do not approve of this method, for the constitution of a plant 
which has gone through the forcing process is considerably weakened, and it is 
not a fit subject for reproduction. 

Root cuttings should be made four or five inches in length. Cuttings set 
out m early Spring should make plants strong enough for forcing by the fol- 
lowing Winter. The number of plants intended for Winter forcing should be 
lifted before hard freezing sets in, and stored in a cool, moist place. Introduce 
them into heat from December on, a batch about every ten days. Insert the 
roots m a loose, moist, open soil, placing them rather close together, as the 
blanched sprouts should be cut before they get very large, or when they are 
four inches to six inches long; they are then crisp and tender. They do not 
require much water, provided the material around the roots is moist. 

A mushroomhouse is the best place for forcing Sea Kale, but before being, 
put mtoit the plants might be acclimatized for a few days in a cool greenhouse" 
This can be done with very little trouble by providing boxes deep enough and of a 
size to be handled easily, and placing the crowns in them, so that they need not 
be disturbed again. Remove them to the mushroomhouse as they show signs of 
growth. While this may involve a little extra labor, the gro\rths will be stronger. 

Toward Spring tender blanched sprouts may be had from the beds outside, 
without lifting, with the aid of Sea Kale pots or large drain pipes, and fresh stable 
manure placed around them. This method brings them in considerably ahead of 
their natural season. 

CHICORY 

Chicory can be forced in the same way as Sea Kale. The French probably 
use more Chicory for salads than any other vegetable. A native, also, of England, 
It may be brought into growth with a comparati\-ely low temperature. It is 
cultivated in the same way as Endive; in fact, Witloof, which is the best for 
forcing, is often called French Endive. 

The seed should be sown late in the Spring, in drills eighteen inches apart, 
and when large enough, thin to about eight inches in the rows. This is preferable 
to transplanting as they produce long, tapering roots. Before sowing, the soil 
should be cultivated deep. It should be fairly rich, but without containing new 
manure. The best time to apply the manure is the Fall, when most of the leaves 
die down. Dig the roots up carefully before haid freezing sets in and store them 
in a cool place. Two or three weeks before the blanched roots are wanted, put 
a batch m the mushroomhouse, or some other dark place where a temperature 
of about 50° can be maintained. 

The roots should be planted in some light material, with just enough moisture 
to start the fibers into motion. Have the crowns projecting about one-half 



250 I-KUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

inch out of the soil. The leaves, when grown in the dark, will be a delicate, 
creamy white. They may be cut for use when they are about a foot long. By 
placing fresh roots about every ten days a constant supply may be had. 

Chicory is very tender when thoroughly blanched, and is much liked as a 
salad, being wholesome with an agreeable, slightl\' bitter flavor. As a forcing 
plant, it requires very little care or attention. The main point is not to give the 
roots too much water. It may be had without the aid of either greenhouse or 
mushroomhouse, if there is a cellar at hand warm enough to produce growth. 
The roots may be grown in the garden during the Summer, in preparation for 
the Winter. It is interesting to watch this plant develop, while everything is 
dormant outside, quite aside from the utilitarian aspect. Witloof Chicory is 
used both as a vegetable and salad. 

A surprising number of vegetables and salads can be produced with com- 
paratively little cost, if every available space is systematically occupied through- 
out the forcing season. And the successful production of these greens is a source 
of pleasure and enjoyment alike to the grower and employer. 



CLASSIFIED INDEX 251 



CLASSIFIED INDEX 



FRUITS UNDER GLASS 

APPLES. See Pot Fruit. 

APRICOTS. See Pot Fruit. 

■CHERRIES. See Pot Fruit. 

PIGS: Page 

Drainage 1 59 

Feeding 160, 163, 164 

Gathering the Fruit 164 

Planting 160, 162 

Propagation 158 

Pruning and Training 164, 165 

Root Pruning 162 

Second Crop, Preparations for: 

Pinching 162 

Temperature — Pruning 163 

Soil 160 

Temperature r 1 60 

Varieties Best Suited for Forcing 165 

Ventilation i 59 

'GRAPES: 

Commercial Grape Culture 65, 66 

Cool Storehouse 82, 83 

'Cultural Directions: 

When to Start Early, Mid-season and Late House — Temperature 38 

Airing the House 38, 40, 41 

Spraying 40 

Feeding 4' 

Disbudding 53 

Exhibition, Handling Grapes for 83, 84, 85 

History of the Grape Vine 17,18 

Houses Best Adapted for Growing Grapes: 

Size — Ventilation — Elevation 20 

Heating — Piping 21 

Insects and Diseases; 

Mealy Bug — Red Spider 75 

Thrips — Vine Weevil — Mildew 76 

Scalding of Berries — Rust 78 

Shanking 79 

Keeping Qualities of Grapes 80, 8 1 

Packing Grapes for Forwarding 83 

Knching or Stopping Shoots 54, 55, 56 

Planting Young Vines: 

When to Plant — Selection of Canes — Soil — Fertilizer — Watering 43 

Plants Rooted from Eyes — Correct Trellis 45, 46 

Dot Culture: 

Vines Grown from Eyes 85, 86 

Soil — Fertilizer — Repotting — Cutting Back 86 

Watering — ^Feeding — ^Temperature — Methods of Training Vines 88 

Varieties Best Adapted for Pot Work 89 

iPot Grape Vines for Fruiting — Temperature — Watering 89 



252 FRUITS AND VEGIZTABLES UNDER GLASS 

GRAPES — Continued. 

Propagation, Various Systems ol : "i'Ke 

\\ hen to Propagate — Propagation from Eyes 22 

By Layering — By I narcliing 24 

By Grafting — By Seed Cross Fertilization 26 

Pruning the Vine, Methods of: 

^'oung Canes — The Short Spur System 47, 48, 49 

Long Rod System 50, 3 1 

Tying the Vines — Adventitious or Aerial Roots 51 

Keeping Fruit Healthy 52 

Setting the Fruit 56, 57 

Thinning Grapes 59, 61, 63 

Varieties Best Adapted for Early and Late Use: 

Best Varieties for Pot Vines 68 

Muscat Grapes 69 

Sweet\v:iter Grapes 70 

Vinous Grapes 72 

Vine Borders: 

1 nside and Outside Borders, Location 29 

Draining a Border 30, 3' 

Fertilizer ... 32, 33, 34 

Watering — Root Action 35 

MELONS: 

Feeding 174. '75 

Fertilizer 169 

Gathering the Fruit I77 

House, Style of 167, 169 

Insects 177 

Mildew 178 

Planting 172, I73 

Seedlings 167, 170 

Setting the Fruit I73. '74 

Soil 169 

Temperature 169 

Varieties 1 78 

Watering I74 

Y'oung Plants, Raising 17O' 

PEACHES and NECTARINES: 

Borders and Their Construction: 

Drainage 9^ 

Soil — Fertilizer 97 

Budding 92, 94 

Cultural Directions: 

Cleanliness in the House — Soil — Fertilizer 102 

Feeding 1 03 

Temperature — Spraying — Ventilation — Watering 104 

Disbudding and Tying the Y'oung Growths 105, 106 

Diseases and Insect Pests: 

San Jose Scale 1 16, 1 18, 1 19 

Peach Borer 1 16, 1 17 

Green Fly — .Mildew — Fruit Rot or Blight 1 19 

Gathering the Fruit 109 

Treatment of Trees after Fruit is Gathered 1 10, 1 12 

House or Houses Best Adapted for Growing 94 

Span Roof — Location — Ventilation 95 

Crosswise System — Size of House — Leanto or Three-Quarter Span — Location 96 

Planting: 

When to Plant— Selection of Stock 99 

Soil — Fertilizer — How to Plant loi 

Pruning and Training 112, 113, 114, 115 

Thinning the Fruit 107, 108, 109 

Varieties for Forcing Purposes, Selection of 121, 122, 123, 124, 126 

PEARS. See Pot Fruit. 



CLASSIFIED INDEX 253 

PINEAPPLES: Page 

Culture 194. 195. 196 

Feeding i95. 196, i97 

Fertilizer 192, i94. i95 

House, Suitable 191. >92 

Insects: 

Mealy Bug— Red Spider 200 

Pot System: 

Atmosphere — Size of Pots — Repotting — Bottom Heat — Drainage 199 

Propagation I92) 193 

Shading 196 

Soil 192, 194 

Spraying I95 

Temperature ■ • 19'. '92, I94 

Ventilation 198 

Varieties 200 

Watering 196 

PLUMS. See Pot Fruit. 

POT FRUIT: 

Advantages 1 27, 1 28, 1 29 

Cultural Directions: 

When to Start into Growth — Temperature 132 

Ventilation — Watering 133 

Spraying — Hand FertiHzation 134 

Feeding 134, I35. I37 

Diseases and Insect Pests: 

Green Fly 142 

Red Spider — Leaf Roller 144 

Mildew — Borer 145 

Houses Suitable for Pot Fruit 1 29 

Size — Style — Ventilation — Temperature 131 

Pinching the Shoots 138,139 

Thinning the Fruit 139, 141 

Treatment of Trees After Fruit is Gathered 146 

Soil 147 

Repotting — Drainage 148 

Pruning 148, 149 

Varieties Adapted for Orchardhouse Work: 

Peaches and Nectarines i 52 

Pears 152 

Pkims r. 1 53, I 54 

Cherries 154 

Apricots 155, 156 

Figs I 56 

Apples 156, 157 

STRAWBERRIES: 

Crown, Growing the 185 

Drainage 187 

FertiKzer 184 

Forcing, Process of 183 

Frost 188 

Fungus 1 89 

Gathering the Fruit 1 84 

Insects: 

Red Spider — Green Fly 188 

Potting " 185 

Runners, Selecting the 181, 182 

Soil 185, 186 

Temperature 1 80, 1 83 

Varieties for Forcing 189, 190 

Watering 184, 187 



254 FRUITS AND VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 



VEGETABLES UNDER GLASS 

ASPARAGUS: Page 

Crowns, Lilting the 240 

Methods of Growing 241, 242 

Temperature 240 

BEANS: 

Feeding 246 

Insects and Diseases 247 

1°"' ■ • : 24 5 

Spraying 246 

Temperature 244, 245 

Varieties 247 

Ventilation 246 

BEETS 243, 244 

CARROTS 243 

CAULIFLOWER: 

Feeding 213, 215 

Insects 216 

Soil 213 

Sowing the Seed 215 

Spraying. 213 

Transplanting ■ 215 

Varieties 216 

Watering 215 

CHICORY: 

Feeding ' 249 

Soil 249 

Sowing the Seed 249 

Temperature 249 

CUCUMBERS: 

Diseases 230, 23 1 

Feeding 228 

House, Size and Style 227 

Insects 230, 23 1 

Pruning 230 

Setting the Fruit 230 

Soil 227, 228 

Sowing the Seed 227 

Temperature 227, 228 

Training 230 

Varieties 23 1 

Ventilation 228 

Watering 228 

LETTUCE: 

Distance to Plant 208 

Feeding 209 

Insects and Diseases: 

Fungus 210 

Aphis 210, 21 1, 212 

Soil 205 

Sowing 205 

Temperatu re ■ 208- 

Transplanting 207 

Varieties 212 

Ventilation 208, 209 

Watering 207, 209 



CLASSIFIED INDEX 255 

MUSHROOMS: Page 

Atmosphere 23 5 

Gathering ■ 23 5 

Location Suitable for Growing 234 

Manure, Desirable 234 

Temperature 236 

Watering 235 

RADISHES: 

Fertilizer 217 

Gathering " 218 

Soil. 217 

Sowing the Seed 217,218 

Varieties 218 

RHUBARB: 

Fertilizer 238 

Forcing, Methods of 237 

Freezing and Roots 238 

House, Construction of 237 

Temperature 237, 238 

Varieties 239 

Watering 238 

SEA KALE: 

Feeding 248 

Root Cuttings 249 

Soil 248 

Sowing the Seed 248 

Temperature 248 

TOMATOES: 

Catch Crop, As a 224 

Feeding 221 

House, Suitable 220 

Insects and Fungous Diseases: 

Tomato Rust or Mildew 224 

Fruit Rot — Clubroot — White Fly 225 

Planting and Training 220 

Setting the Fruit 222, 223 

Soil 220 

Sowing the Seed 220 

Spring Crop, Preparations for 224 

Temperature 22 1 , 222 

Varieties 225 

Ventilation 221, 222 

Watering 221 



HOR TICUL TURAL BOOKS 



CAKNATiON, THE AMERICAN 

C. W. Ward. SIzt 7KixlO in. : 29b pagt) : superbly i))u)trauJ. 

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GARDENER'S ASSISTANT, THE 

Two large volumes. 

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HOUSE PLANTS, SUCCESS WITH 

Lizzie Page HiVhouse. 

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PLANT CULTURE 

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Eber Holmes. Size 7^ .^x 5 in. ; 165 pages ; heavily illustrated. 

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VIOLET CULTURE, COMMERCIAL 

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WATER GARDENING, THE BOOK OF 

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HEATHER, THE: IN LORE, LYRIC AND LAY 

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All above published b\ 

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Short Address: P. O. Box 1697, N. Y. City Offices: 2 TO 8 DUANE ST.. NEW YORK 



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